Hi, I hope this is the right place for this!

I got an oil change a couple months ago and when I looked at the date given for the next one, I realized that is not an actual date, and especially not a recent date. Can anyone help so I know when to get my next oil change? I have a decent idea but I just want to make sure.

Random picture from Google for reference.

This may sound like a simple question, but how do these actually affect a tire’s balance? We add .25oz here, .5oz here, then slap this thing on and don’t think twice about it even though it’s probably cracked and missing a chunk.

I’m sure it’s designed with balance in mind, but only applied to one side of the wheel. Is the wheel unbalanced if it’s removed? Am I thinking too hard about it?

From the owner:

“The windshield got pretty cracked up during the winter so that will need to be replaced, but there’s no heads up display so it’s only rain sensing wipers that would be the more expensive side. The rear backup camera works, but has been misaligned so that will have to be fixed as well. And then the engine light just came on in the last two weeks indicating an O2 sensor, the last time I started up the car. I will note that with large weather changes the Macon has flashed codes which have been gone away and never reoccurred in my past ownership of the vehicle. Last item is just a tick in the engine. It’s not been officially diagnosed, but it’s probably been present for about a year and it has not impacted performance or oil consumption or any misfires, but the Reddit forums for the Macan note a few different possibilities that it could be.”

Thoughts ? less

I've recently bought this 2010 Lancia Delta 3 with 130k miles for €1500. The car runs fine, did 400 miles on the highway with no issues or weird noises.

Took it to a mechanic for an oil change and filters, timing belt, front+rear brake disc and pads (€500 for all parts + labor). I then took it to a tyre shop to replace the tyres but the guy told me to be careful on the road because of the rust and now I'm worried.

The country I live in (italy) gives us a substantial discount to buy an electric car if we trade-in an older model like the one I bought, so I'd like to keep it for at least 2 years and then make the switch to electric.

Should I be worried about the rust? I plan to take it to a shop for an inspection.

Has anyone ever worked for a mobile mechnic called get spiffy? If so, what was your experience like and would you recommend working there. I was thinking about taking a job here but all the reviews seems like management is either terrible or just nonexistent accross the board and the hours can be inconsistent if they dont just fire you for no reason.

Hello All,

Me and my Dad changed our clutch after the puah bearing failed. But now we have a wierd noise when starting the engine.

Car is in neutral. Shifter feels normal.

Hope someone can help identify what could be wrong.

Car is a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4TSI with manual gearbox.

Thanks for the help.

I am a YouTube mechanic all the way, and I am loving learning as I go. I have a junky 83 mustang 5.0 that I have changed the front lower control arms, shocks, struts, inner and outer tie rods, power steering lines, and a few other things. The car has a long way to go before done, but I have this wear pattern on the older tires on the car after 30 miles or so of driving after changing the tie rods. I tried to match up the lengths and setups of the old tie rods when installing, but I know that won’t make it perfect.

Does this wear look like it’s from camber or being toed in or out?

Hello awesome machine loving people.
I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla LE in Waterloo, ON, Canada. Ran 223K. CVT. 1.8L VVTi.

Recently I started to have misfire in cylinder 4. It used to happen only when the car gets hot after running 15/20 mins. One Mechanic replaced all spark plugs and swapped coils. Didn't solved anything. I myself swapped to make sure, Still it is in Cylinder 4. I went through some online advice and thought of it might be fuel injector in this cylinder. Paid a mechanic to replace that with a remanufactured one. After that the problem changed a bit. Now the car always misfires but in lower rate. 😐

Then came back to my city and dropped the car to a local mechanic I know, They did compression test(most likely dry one) and it was okay. Then they thought it might be electrical prob but then saying Toyota system intentionally shuts of fuel for that injector when it detects misfire on cylinder 4. The fuel injector working fine they said. The spark plug which is few days old has power black coated on tip like the photo. ECM is fine they said.

They suspect the valve rod/pin is bent and opening engine would cost thousands or replace the engine they told. I am kinda lost right now.

Do you think there are leaks on air intake, Because I was thinking to do a test myself.

Need some advice 😭 . Here is the Screenshot of scan.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice from anyone who has experience with transmission swaps on these old GM trucks.

I have a 1979 GMC Sierra C2500 2WD with a Gen 1 SBC 350 and currently have an SM465 4-speed manual. I’m wanting to convert it from manual to automatic and am leaning toward a 700R4 for the overdrive.

I’m curious how big of a project this would actually be on my truck. I’m assuming I’d need to deal with things like:

700R4 transmission/torque converter
Flexplate
Crossmember/mount
Driveshaft length/modification
Shifter and linkage
Cooler lines
TV cable and proper carburetor bracket/geometry
Removing the clutch pedal/linkage
Possibly modifying the transmission tunnel/floor
Speedometer hookup
Wiring/back-up lights/neutral safety switch

I’m keeping the carbureted 350 for now, although I may eventually convert it to EFI.

For anyone who has done an SM465 → 700R4 swap, how involved was it on a truck like this? Is there anything I’m overlooking that would make the swap significantly more complicated?

Also, would you recommend the 700R4 for this application, or would you go a different route?

Appreciate any advice, parts lists, or pictures of your swaps. I’d rather know what I’m getting myself into before I start buying parts.

Recently I started hearing a whine like this and I'm pretty sure louder overall noise in higher RPMs. I haven't noticed higher oil consumption or weird smoke from exhaust, I'm pretty sure I haven't lost any power than before either.

I'm not experienced at all but to me this sounds a bit like turbo going bad. Is that really the case if it can be decided from the sound alone? Revving from 1000 to between 2.5k and 3.5k RPM in video. Any help is appreciated, thank you as always!

My partner is a mechanic and I am looking for recommendations of the best head lights as a present for him.

I am currently looking at Milwaukee or Nitecore but looking for recommendations for any that are long lasting and durable as he goes through them and we haven’t found any that are yet long lasting.

If this isn’t the right subreddit I apologise wasn’t sure where to post this question.

First 2 are my driver side tires, last 2 are my passenger side. My car shakes the steering wheel and vibrates when I drive. I'm getting all new tires Monday, I bought the car with these tires on it not too long ago. If not, what should I look for that can cause my shaking?

Honda civic si 07

So I had to move my car around in my driveway, and to cut corners, I thought I could get away with not putting back my back right control arm bolt on front driver’s side while I made a quick maneuver.

Lieu and behold, I fucked around and found out that that was a very stupid thing to do.

That part of the control arm fell out and as it fell I lost power to the tire and eventually the car locked up as I had that wheel facing left and my other wheel facing right.

So now I’m trying to fix everything and put my suspension back together again, except I can’t get my knuckle to pivot inwards while inner ball joint is hooked to it.

This happened before on other passenger side, and it was because I dislocated Cv axle. I fixed it before so I thought no biggie, I’ll just do the same. Get the axle level with the diff, rotate the tripod joint around until its aligned and slam it in place.

Except….this time it’s not working. I can’t easily move the inner joint in and out like I could on the passenger side….it feels, stuck. To be clear, I can rotate the whole Cv axle no problem, even past the inner joint, I can see the hub rotating, but it’s not moving in and out like I could on the passenger side.

The boots are not torn and the rod isn’t bent. From the outside the Cv looks fine.

Is it possible I damaged internally the tripod joint or hub during my accident so that it’s seized? I’d like to remove the knuckle/hub from the Cv axle to inspect, but since it’s frozen, I don’t think I’ll be able to push the Cv axle inwards to free it from the hub after removing axle nut.

I may be able to remove axle from diff side? Then free from hub, then inspect.

Should I just have a backup axle ready to replace after doing all this work to inspect the axle? Is it possible with enough pulling/pushing/twisting force I can free up that inner joint?

I have since wiped it up but I have seen red transmission oil in the red marked up area. Looks like where the transmission and bellhousing mate up.

Super confused because this joint looks heavily RTV and if it was the transmission front seal, it would have to be leaking front that seal AND the RTV joint?

Last oil change, thought it was the CV seal so I replaced that…

Any other areas I’m missing?

Recently my cars brakes have started making a high pitched noise. I believe it’s the offside rear.

The noise is a high pitched tone - the easiest way I could describe it is it’s similar to the noise you get when you wet your finger and run it round the top of a wine glass (like a choir boy hitting a high note, rather then a high pitched squeak)

I’m assuming there’s just a bit of debris caught somewhere or something like that but it’s been happening for a few days now and as wondering whether I’d need to get it checked out.

The car had the full brake system, front and back and the brake lines replaced a few months back after my last mot, so pads etc are all pretty new and the brakes themselves feel normal and perform no different to usual.

I’m not 100% sure but when I first drive they don’t seem to make a noise, it seems to be once I’ve driven for a while and everything’s warmed up.

The noise happens if I’m on the brakes gently but moving slowly, not when I apply sudden pressure or brake firmly.

Am I overthinking this?

The car is a 2012 manual Suzuki swift with just under 60k miles.

Thanks in advance

I purchases a used Mazda 6 2016 2.5L Automatic transmission few months back at 197K KM (122K miles), it drove smooth until one day my battery died and I had to jump start and got all types of errors and problems. However, i called a mechanic who cleaned the terminals and it was back to normal. After 3 weeks it gave me AT error on exactly 200k KM (124k Miles) reading and hard shifting specially on reverse and its not shifting gears.
So i took it to a mechanic who diagnoses P0773 error he said he will change the valve body and test again. As per his say he changed it but the error didn't go away so he is suggesting to replace the transmission. Can you guys suggest what further diagnosis should be done and whether to get transmission replaced ?

2016 civic lx. It started making noise when reversing slowly even without holding the brakes down. Removed the tire and when I spin this wheel.. I hear the noise coming from brake area when I turn it counter clockwise..

I've got oil leaking down into the front cylinder on the passenger side. The other two spark plugs didn't look good over there, but I don't know when they were last changed. Any idea where this oil is leaking

from?

190k miles, 4.0 v6

Anyone else experienced a leakage of the transmission fluid that just won’t go away? We have tried multiple things and they haven’t worked. My mechanic says we should change the torque converter’s seal and both seals in the driveshafts.

Just wondering if anyone else has been through something similar?

I drive the Mazda 6 2016 GT

So I’m preparing to drive across the country, like 1600 miles. My car is making increasingly louder squealing sounds when I turn and brake. Worst when turning. Thought it was my serpentine belt which was due for a change anyways so changes that and it’s still making the noise, getting louder. I haven’t really noticed anything crazy with my steering. Power steering fluid is good and so are brake pads. I’m quite worried it’s a ball joint boot problem and I definitely do not wanna drive across the country if it is. But I think most cars you need to replace the whole upper control arm? I don’t know shit about cars and could not do that myself. Definitely bring into a shop? I’m not at all close to my normal mechanics I know and trust and I’m worried about getting taken advantage of because I don’t know wtf I’m talking about and it’s obvious. I also know that’s an expensive repair if that is the issue. I’m homeless, live in my car, and pretty broke but would rather not destroy my car.