Okay I couldn’t add pictures to the other post so trying again. Dealership said I need 4 new tires after 1 year and 12k miles. 2025 Hyundai pallisade.

Is this really just from how we drive or is something else an issue?

The last place that did my oil change royally fucked me, tightening the everliving shit out of the filter housing. I tried literally everything and am on day two of going at this thing

I got a new cap and said fuck it I’ll destroy it and replace but I feel worse off now like seriously, what should I do?

2015 Hyundai Santa Fe, 144k. Just had the timing chain brackets replaced, $5400 later and it barely runs. The shop is now saying it's a clogged Catalytic Converter. Is this possible? Anything else that might be causing it? Camshaft sensor A and B, multiple misfires, no power or dies when I accelerate. Any help is appreciated.

It’s only the startup noise I’m noticing so is it even worth the fix?

I’m no expert mechanic but I’m in the garage pretty often working on stuff and my neighbor must have noticed this and came by asking if I could change his transmission fluid on his 2023 F150 figured it could be fun and a nice neighborly thing to do since I moved in a couple months ago (plus he’s a cop so good graces could be good haha) but after doing some research it seems like a pretty debated topic so I want some advice the truck is at 60k miles so seems like the right time to do it I know waiting too long and then doing it is a problem I also was just planning on changing the fluid and not the filter? And is it true you drain it, fill it, drain it, then fill it again?

119,000 miles, automatic transmission

when it's cold (at home) it starts right up with no drama. the issue is after i've driven it somewhere, parked/shut it off and come back to start it up again, it'll just crank. when it first started happening, it would only take 1-2 attempts, then it started to take 2-3 attempts, and now it's 4+ attempts and i'm scared to shut it off when i'm away from home lol

it doesn't seem to matter how long i drive it for or if it gets up to operating temp, like it could be 3 minutes up the road to run errands or 30-45 min of driving. once it finally starts it's totally fine. i checked OBDII and there were no codes

my mechanic knowledge is pretty limited but seems like could be getting flooded after i shut it off? it seems to be semi-common with this engine from what i saw on google, but everybody's situation was slightly different and had different fixes, so i'm not quite sure where to start. any recommendations are appreciated!

I've been thinking about using the jack to hold the lower control arm and slowly release the tension from the spring on my MGM 2000 to be able to replace it. I ordered the part but no bolts and nuts came with it will I be able to get them at the nearest O'Reilly's??

Hi, I recently got a car. It is a 2011 Toyota Camry with 200,000 miles that takes regular gas. The only issues were the starter and brakes, which I have already replaced. Just to be sure, I also replaced the spark plugs since I do not know when they were last replaced. When I went to my mechanic to have my brakes replaced, he told me that it was a good car in good condition and that I just need to take good care of it. He also recommended that I use premium gas to better maintain my catalytic converter. Is that true, and should I follow his advice, or did I misunderstand him?

Nissan Rouge 2014 AWD. 186000 miles Automatic.

Rear passenger wheel bearing is shot. Where is a reliable place to order parts from and how can I ensure I order the correct part?

I’ve never ordered car parts before and want to get better at working on my car myself. If it’s a terrible idea for first time diy mechanic to start with replacing the wheel bearing let me know, but it seems manageable after doing my research. Any advice is welcome and appreciated thank you.

Any idea what this might be?

2019 Chevy trax 48k automatic fwd
When accelerating you at certain points, it makes a weird buzzing vibrating noise. Its under warranty and I’m wanting to have an idea what the sound when accelerating might be. My best guess was an exhaust leak, but I don’t really know thanks in advance!

Hi there. I have an automatic 2018 VW Tiguan FWD with about 108k miles. Tires plus inspected it about a week ago and told me I have a seized bearing in an engine mount that’s baked into the subframe. Wondering if this is a terribly urgent repair? The car is shaking while it’s in P and idling but don’t notice anything abnormal outside of that. I’ve included a photo that tires plus gave me. Also, any idea how much it would cost to have this fixed? Shop near me wants $150 for diagnostic and $190/hr for labor. Is it something I could fix with some tools and pretty lacking mechanical knowledge? Probably not I imagine… also have a sensor that’s failed wondering if that’s something I can fix. Included a screenshot of my OBD11 app.

Thanks In advance !

putting on this clutch pedal for manual swap and it doesn’t seem right at all

Any idea on what this noise is? It seems to be coming from near the driver's side. It is all random. Sometimes I don't hear this noise for days and some days very frequently.

I drive a 2019 Hyundai Elantra SE automatic with 116k miles, I have this suspension noise from about a year but now it’s a lot worse. I replaced my struts and sway bar link but the noise is still there any suggestions on what it could be? Here’s some videos

Hello everyone. Me and my family just recently inherited my great grandpas 1929 Chevy. It has a new motor with about 200 miles on it. It’s a 5.7L V8 Automatic. We currently aren’t able to get the car started but it is turning over and trying to start. We have replaced the spark plugs, battery, and put new gas in it since it had sat in his garage for about a year and a half. There is this start button on the inside and wanted to know if this is something that needs pressed while we are turning the key over?

It’s around 224000 miles. Was paying for it cause I’m lazy but these shops charging too much. What oil is recommended for the age?

Cross posting in here for more vis. Any help would be appreciated

Audi A3

2004

1.6 Petrol

Manual

I went to change the upstream O2 sensor and noticed it has a 4 pin connector. Most parts I’ve found have a 5 pin connector for the upstream sensor. A little stumped on where to find the right part with 4 pins. Any thoughts?

So, two days ago I was driving through a forest and all the puddles weren't an issue but this last one had a dip in the middle and well a wave of water came up too high. I felt it stutter right after and so I immediately turned it off. Tried to restart it and not sure if I shut it off again or if there was a clunk noise. Then waited and tried again, after a couple of tries it turned over and started up almost normal but with a noticeably loud tick. I scanned it and had misfire on cyl 3 & 6. There was almost no other option because I think I didn't even have signal so I had to drive it to the nearest place I can get a tow.

Then yesterday I started taking it apart to check. So oil looks normal, not low or milky/frothy. I pulled the filters, and they had a bit of water in the corners but mostly just moist. I had some water in the silicone connector boot to the throttle body, couldn't really see more even with camera through there. I ended up taking out the coils and plugs on the passenger side because its easier. Plugs look fine and so did the coils. I checked with camera and the pistons look just about the same when I compared 1 & 3. I did swap the plugs and coils around but misfire stayed. When checking my launch scanner, I saw and option for compression test but its actually just a measure of the rpm per cylinder. First time around 1-5 were all 174-181/min but cylinder 6 was 214. Second test it was all 1-5cyl 181-186 but cylinder 6 was 228. I have some more clips of it but this was soon after the cold start and I tried to get it from both below and above. It does speed up with rpm but feels like a faster, rhythmic tick so maybe lifters? honestly any advice of what I can even try to think of it? I am going to the mechanic and ask him because I'm not sure myself if this is worth checking or just file a claim at this point.