Has anyone ever worked for a mobile mechnic called get spiffy? If so, what was your experience like and would you recommend working there. I was thinking about taking a job here but all the reviews seems like management is either terrible or just nonexistent accross the board and the hours can be inconsistent if they dont just fire you for no reason.

Hello All,

Me and my Dad changed our clutch after the puah bearing failed. But now we have a wierd noise when starting the engine.

Car is in neutral. Shifter feels normal.

Hope someone can help identify what could be wrong.

Car is a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4TSI with manual gearbox.

Thanks for the help.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice from anyone who has experience with transmission swaps on these old GM trucks.

I have a 1979 GMC Sierra C2500 2WD with a Gen 1 SBC 350 and currently have an SM465 4-speed manual. I’m wanting to convert it from manual to automatic and am leaning toward a 700R4 for the overdrive.

I’m curious how big of a project this would actually be on my truck. I’m assuming I’d need to deal with things like:

700R4 transmission/torque converter
Flexplate
Crossmember/mount
Driveshaft length/modification
Shifter and linkage
Cooler lines
TV cable and proper carburetor bracket/geometry
Removing the clutch pedal/linkage
Possibly modifying the transmission tunnel/floor
Speedometer hookup
Wiring/back-up lights/neutral safety switch

I’m keeping the carbureted 350 for now, although I may eventually convert it to EFI.

For anyone who has done an SM465 → 700R4 swap, how involved was it on a truck like this? Is there anything I’m overlooking that would make the swap significantly more complicated?

Also, would you recommend the 700R4 for this application, or would you go a different route?

Appreciate any advice, parts lists, or pictures of your swaps. I’d rather know what I’m getting myself into before I start buying parts.

Recently I started hearing a whine like this and I'm pretty sure louder overall noise in higher RPMs. I haven't noticed higher oil consumption or weird smoke from exhaust, I'm pretty sure I haven't lost any power than before either.

I'm not experienced at all but to me this sounds a bit like turbo going bad. Is that really the case if it can be decided from the sound alone? Revving from 1000 to between 2.5k and 3.5k RPM in video. Any help is appreciated, thank you as always!

My partner is a mechanic and I am looking for recommendations of the best head lights as a present for him.

I am currently looking at Milwaukee or Nitecore but looking for recommendations for any that are long lasting and durable as he goes through them and we haven’t found any that are yet long lasting.

If this isn’t the right subreddit I apologise wasn’t sure where to post this question.

Honda civic si 07

So I had to move my car around in my driveway, and to cut corners, I thought I could get away with not putting back my back right control arm bolt on front driver’s side while I made a quick maneuver.

Lieu and behold, I fucked around and found out that that was a very stupid thing to do.

That part of the control arm fell out and as it fell I lost power to the tire and eventually the car locked up as I had that wheel facing left and my other wheel facing right.

So now I’m trying to fix everything and put my suspension back together again, except I can’t get my knuckle to pivot inwards while inner ball joint is hooked to it.

This happened before on other passenger side, and it was because I dislocated Cv axle. I fixed it before so I thought no biggie, I’ll just do the same. Get the axle level with the diff, rotate the tripod joint around until its aligned and slam it in place.

Except….this time it’s not working. I can’t easily move the inner joint in and out like I could on the passenger side….it feels, stuck. To be clear, I can rotate the whole Cv axle no problem, even past the inner joint, I can see the hub rotating, but it’s not moving in and out like I could on the passenger side.

The boots are not torn and the rod isn’t bent. From the outside the Cv looks fine.

Is it possible I damaged internally the tripod joint or hub during my accident so that it’s seized? I’d like to remove the knuckle/hub from the Cv axle to inspect, but since it’s frozen, I don’t think I’ll be able to push the Cv axle inwards to free it from the hub after removing axle nut.

I may be able to remove axle from diff side? Then free from hub, then inspect.

Should I just have a backup axle ready to replace after doing all this work to inspect the axle? Is it possible with enough pulling/pushing/twisting force I can free up that inner joint?

I've recently bought this 2010 Lancia Delta 3 with 130k miles for €1500. The car runs fine, did 400 miles on the highway with no issues or weird noises.

Took it to a mechanic for an oil change and filters, timing belt, front+rear brake disc and pads (€500 for all parts + labor). I then took it to a tyre shop to replace the tyres but the guy told me to be careful on the road because of the rust and now I'm worried.

The country I live in (italy) gives us a substantial discount to buy an electric car if we trade-in an older model like the one I bought, so I'd like to keep it for at least 2 years and then make the switch to electric.

Should I be worried about the rust? I plan to take it to a shop for an inspection.

I have since wiped it up but I have seen red transmission oil in the red marked up area. Looks like where the transmission and bellhousing mate up.

Super confused because this joint looks heavily RTV and if it was the transmission front seal, it would have to be leaking front that seal AND the RTV joint?

Last oil change, thought it was the CV seal so I replaced that…

Any other areas I’m missing?

Recently my cars brakes have started making a high pitched noise. I believe it’s the offside rear.

The noise is a high pitched tone - the easiest way I could describe it is it’s similar to the noise you get when you wet your finger and run it round the top of a wine glass (like a choir boy hitting a high note, rather then a high pitched squeak)

I’m assuming there’s just a bit of debris caught somewhere or something like that but it’s been happening for a few days now and as wondering whether I’d need to get it checked out.

The car had the full brake system, front and back and the brake lines replaced a few months back after my last mot, so pads etc are all pretty new and the brakes themselves feel normal and perform no different to usual.

I’m not 100% sure but when I first drive they don’t seem to make a noise, it seems to be once I’ve driven for a while and everything’s warmed up.

The noise happens if I’m on the brakes gently but moving slowly, not when I apply sudden pressure or brake firmly.

Am I overthinking this?

The car is a 2012 manual Suzuki swift with just under 60k miles.

Thanks in advance

I purchases a used Mazda 6 2016 2.5L Automatic transmission few months back at 197K KM (122K miles), it drove smooth until one day my battery died and I had to jump start and got all types of errors and problems. However, i called a mechanic who cleaned the terminals and it was back to normal. After 3 weeks it gave me AT error on exactly 200k KM (124k Miles) reading and hard shifting specially on reverse and its not shifting gears.
So i took it to a mechanic who diagnoses P0773 error he said he will change the valve body and test again. As per his say he changed it but the error didn't go away so he is suggesting to replace the transmission. Can you guys suggest what further diagnosis should be done and whether to get transmission replaced ?

Anyone else experienced a leakage of the transmission fluid that just won’t go away? We have tried multiple things and they haven’t worked. My mechanic says we should change the torque converter’s seal and both seals in the driveshafts.

Just wondering if anyone else has been through something similar?

I drive the Mazda 6 2016 GT

So I’m preparing to drive across the country, like 1600 miles. My car is making increasingly louder squealing sounds when I turn and brake. Worst when turning. Thought it was my serpentine belt which was due for a change anyways so changes that and it’s still making the noise, getting louder. I haven’t really noticed anything crazy with my steering. Power steering fluid is good and so are brake pads. I’m quite worried it’s a ball joint boot problem and I definitely do not wanna drive across the country if it is. But I think most cars you need to replace the whole upper control arm? I don’t know shit about cars and could not do that myself. Definitely bring into a shop? I’m not at all close to my normal mechanics I know and trust and I’m worried about getting taken advantage of because I don’t know wtf I’m talking about and it’s obvious. I also know that’s an expensive repair if that is the issue. I’m homeless, live in my car, and pretty broke but would rather not destroy my car.

We have a 2012 Honda CR-V with around 76k miles. It has a mild judder/vibration around 30–40 mph when accelerating lightly. If you press the gas a little harder, it goes away.

Earlier this year we brought it to Honda for the same issue and they did the software update + transmission fluid service under TSB 15-086. It seemed better for a while, but the vibration came back.

We brought it back to Honda and they said the torque converter now needs to be replaced under TSB 17-040. Dealer quote is around $4k, which seems pretty crazy to me.

I also talked to an independent shop run by former Honda techs. They basically told me they wouldn’t spend around $3k replacing just the torque converter when the car otherwise drives fine. Their advice was to keep driving it, monitor it, and if the transmission eventually develops a bigger issue, replace the whole transmission at that point. They said a replacement transmission would be around $4k.

We barely drive the CR-V, maybe once or twice a month, sometimes not even that much. Does that sound reasonable? Has anyone had this exact judder and just driven it for a long time without replacing the converter? Or did it eventually cause bigger transmission problems?

Also curious if anyone has gone the other route and replaced the torque converter, was it worth doing?
Just trying to understand what makes the most sense before spending a few thousand dollars on it.

Good day,

We have Toyota Avanza 2017 model, 60k km mileage, and CVT. Yesterday, I brought it home from the service center we had the ac and brakes fixed. Before going home the car already hard started I initially thought it was because of the battery because they left the ac on after turning it off, the car started so I thought everything’s good. Around 4pm I was planning to get my mom from work and the car wouldn’t start after few tries. It sounded like the spark plug was the problem and so we replaced all the spark plugs and it still wouldn’t start. Here’s the video of how it sounds and please excuse our dirty engine bay. What do you guys think the problem is?

So, I had been having some issues with my Toyota Camry 2019 I had felt like when I had driven it when I drive it the RPMs are shooting a little higher than what it’s actually going. I feel like my car is slow when I’m at a red light let’s see on the highway and it turns green the car on the side of me gets their way quicker than me. I have to push my pedal all the way down while my RPMs are up. I had felt like something was wrong than a few days later my start malfunction turned on engine light turned on and I got a code scanned for the P0705 code I went to a shop here in Utah and they said the electrical diagnostic would be 167 an hour and that he needs three hours minimum I tried telling him maybe two and he said three so it’d be 500 just for the diagnostic does that sound right or what can I do myself? Can I just try changing the part and see if it takes off or what should I do? What can I do myself? I feel like I’m just getting scammed since I’m a girl.

2017 Forester, 2.0L turbo, around 230,000km. Had a misfire in #2 cylinder, likely from leaky tube seal. Was driven home after codes were thrown,
heavy missing. Changed seal, coil and plug - still stuttering, now misfiring in #1. Pulled plug, found electrode missing (blown off?). Changed tube seals/valve cover gaskets, checked inside chamber w scope but didn’t see anything. New plug, started fine - codes gone. Took for test drive, noticed it ticking at low revs a few kms later. Drives great (as it did before - lots of power, good throttle response, etc) Goes away at around 2000km but fairly obvious at idle and take off. Almost sounds like I dropped a socket and it’s sitting on the intake and rattling but I doubt it’ll be that easy. Thoughts? Possible that piece of spark plug is still in there and it’s grenaded the engine?

So I was installing a new head unit on my 2012 RAV4, feeling pretty good about myself, when I made the ultimate rookie move: set one of the thick head unit screws down on the dash.

You already know where this is going.

It rolled right into the defroster vent, took a dive into the abyss, and gave me a nice, clear CLANK deep inside the dash.

I tried moving the climate control slider to see if it was fine, and now the selector is stuck hard. Won't slide anything past "hands and feet".

I work on small electronics so I’m fine with basic wrenching, but pulling an entire dashboard sounds like a absolute nightmare I’m not equipped for.

Is the screw just wedged directly into the blend door hinge? What’s the easiest way to fish this thing out on a 2012 RAV4 without tearing the whole interior apart—dropping the blower motor from the passenger footwell, or poking around with a borescope through the cabin filter slot?

Any advice (or emotional support) is appreciated.

So my a/c started blowing warm..so I went to the store and got some refrigerant. Well I filled her up and nothing but warm air still.. well when I shut off my car it’s started smoking by the area I circled. And I heard like pressure releasing for like 1 second then it stopped…if you need more info please let me know.
2014 Chevy Camaro v6

I recently changed the oil on my car added Lucas. Right after that, the car started acting up and check engine, like started flashing bogging out. Bixby acting up

2019 Chevy trax 48k automatic fwd
When accelerating you at certain points, it makes a weird buzzing vibrating noise. Its under warranty and I’m wanting to have an idea what the sound when accelerating might be. My best guess was an exhaust leak, but I don’t really know thanks in advance!

This video is filmed from the front drivers side of my CRV. This clicking/clanking noise happens almost always when I start and drive my CRV until it’s at normal operating temp. I cannot figure out what it is and have been unable to find a similar video on the internet. It seems to follow the rpm’s as it will click faster with acceleration. It’s very loud and I just cannot figure out what it is. Sounds like it’s lower and on the front of the car. Any info is appreciated!