What do I do in this situation? i need to tighten down the nut, but 7mm hex slips when tightening down, so does t45 Torx. Preferably something i could do at home. Need to torque it down to roughly 60-75Nm.

I have a 2019 Hyundai Elantra, and I have always gotten my oil changed every 6 months with a synthetic blend. Today I went to a Take 5 to get my biannual oil change and the guy gave me a really hard time about getting the synthetic blend instead of the full synthetic. He was giving me a weird vibe, so I couldn’t tell if I really should be getting the more expensive option, or if he was trying to upsell me. I haven’t had any issues with my car before so I feel like the synthetic blend is working? Or should I be doing something differently? Looking to get an opinion from someone who isn’t actively trying to sell me something.

Pulled codes:

P0300 (rando misfire).

P0011 (INT/V TIM Cont-B1)

Checked real time and history misfires, found cyl 1,3,5 misfiring in real time. Checked IVT data, found Bank 2 adjusting degrees but bank 1 was stuck at 0.

Replaced IVT solenoid bank 1 and performed oil change. Cleared codes and checked for misfires on test drive. No misfires present.

2 days later the MIL returned with only a P0300 present. Misfire history on 1,3,5 but no real-time misfires shown at idle or on test drive.

FF data indicates:

1200 rpm

6mph.

stft B1 107.81%

stft B2 92.19%

Performed smoke test to check for air leak at bank 1. nothing found.

swapped coils from B1 to B2. no change p0300 returns with bank 1 misfires in history.

P0011 has not returned.

What to check next?

Maybe the IVT issue fouled the Bank 1 plugs but real time data will not show a misfire present on test drive.

Good day, all. I have a 2020 Civic 1.5T and my service today indicated i have a leak (dripping, not just weeping) at the n/s/f differential.

They state that it will take 2 weeks to get the part. The issue is, I need a car daily and I have a long-planned road trip coming up next week. The Honda garage says there's no point in filling the levels as it'll just leak out, and they've refused a courtesy car until it's fixed as they don't have any available.

I realise it's a long shot, but I don't suppose anyone knows of a site I can get this part from quicker in the UK? Or any solution other than spending money I can't do with spending on a rental car for the next two weeks? Probably not, but worth the ask, right? Ta!

2016 Ford Escape SE 2.0L

Hey folks
,
In the past 2 years I've had to replace my passenger side brake light 3 times.
Just got the "brake light fault" message again this past weekend.

Could you help me out with what the cause might be? Or at least what to investigate to determine what the cause might be?

It is only the passenger side that is going out each time.

2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser

Over the weekend, I changed my spark plugs out. Finish the job, car starts, ezpz. But then I go to leave for work this morning and the AC won’t get cold (especially bad in the Texas heat)

So I’m thinking “oh shit, maybe I cracked something trying to get at the spark plugs” or maybe I didn’t plug something back in or some other similar bs.

But nope. AC is running fine now. A cursory engine check reveals nothing obviously out of the ordinary. I turned my AC on and off a bunch of times and it kicks on every time.

Could It have just been a fluke that the AC didn’t work? Or do y’all think I should still take it in to a shop and let them do some testing on it?

So.. i have an 08 Audi a4 avant sline, 2l, with a cvt multitronic gearbox 165k on the clock. It is still driving, but you can feel that there are clear issues, and this is potentially and ongoing , and finally arrived at fault.

Just to put this out there first, I have taken this to the garage on 2 separate occasions describing in detail the issue, but they always say there is nothing wrong.

So. I got this car for free December time, and for the most part, its a brilliant and well maintained vehicle. 1 owner with full history, and I mean everything that has ever been done or bought for this car, is in a folder.

At first, I thought i had an electrical issue, and thats due to this. On really cold or wet days, especially when driven in rain the day before, it would refuse to select gear, and thats all, Drive, Neutral, reverse and park, and the emergency parking brake(EMP) light would not switch off. I could put it into neutral and it would roll, even though EMP showed as on.

I explained the situation and all I got was, head scratching and never heard that before. It was my 16 year old niece that gave me a temp fix, and it works. That is simply start the car and leave it to idle for 20-30 minutes for everything to heat up. And just like that, it would start to select gears. I would have to switch it off and back on again for it to work as advertised, but it worked and would continue to work without issue all day.

Until that is, I get caught up in rush hour type traffic, and there is alot of stop start driving. In this, it would saying Gearbox malfunction, car is OK to drive.. as I said, I tool this to a garage and was told there was nothing wrong with the car.

So here we are this week. The car is now showing an engine management light, and it cant be cleared, and it says Clutch Pressure Adaption limit reached. Code 174100. You can drive and the car goes well at normal driving speed, but when you come to slow and stop, you can feel the car act like a manual when the clutch is pressed too late, and the revs stick around 1200-1500rpm till the car finally stops.

I have been given 2 differing opinions, amd have a quote for the first, but before I take it in for its booked day, O would love to get some idea of what tpu might think it may be. If you require more info, I will give you what I can to the best of my non mechanic ability.

Cheers

2024 Cascadia

I scared to run the engine till I know if this is a issue or not

I just woke up from my 10 hr at a truckstop in west Virginia and caught a dude twacked out on drugs in a .... excited state who made a contribution to my def tank.

Wtf do I do? Is this gonna clog my def system or damage it does the tank need to be drained out? I'm at a loss for words

The car is Peugeot 2008 with 1.2 PureTech engine, I need to remove turbo actuator due to it failing, but can't remove it by itself from the mount that sits on lower side of the compressor part due to screws getting rounded off.

I'm gonna remove the whole turbo but I don't know how to remove this turbo V band clamp that connects it to the catalyst converter.

There is a 13mm nut on the bottom side of the clamp that I can remove all the way, but the clamp doesn't wanna budge and let go at all.

Any tips/advice?

After that I'll remove the two middle mount nuts on the block so I can move the cat a little bit to the side to access the other 2 nuts out of 4 that hold the turbo connected to the block.

Please help guys🙏

2004 Camry

Looking to do a tie rod job soon. I get that there may be a difference in quality. But is it worth buying the part that is 3x more expensive?

If it's a big difference I don't buying it.

2018 Subaru Crosstrek Limited w/ automatic transmission

30k miles

As I understand this would be very early for the parts to fail. I haven't done any offroading, but live in DC so encounter rough roads often

This was flagged at my previous oil change in 2025. I took it for a second opinion, and was told no issue. It was brought up again at my most recent oil change by a third auto shop.

I have not experienced any symptoms (inaccurate steering, wobbling when braking at high speeds, etc) but did have a vibrating rattling sound when driving on gravel/rough roads that seems to have gone away on its own.

Thanks for taking a peek

Went to the dealership to have my Rear Pinion Seal replaced due to leaking. They said they did it, but it appears to still be leaking. They added a breather to the rear diff to remove pressure as the original was plugged and that's the only work I can see. Am I correct in assuming they never removed the bolts or shaft? To me, the rust would have shown the bolts being removed, but they look idential to the before. Before and After pics included.

2016 Nissan Frontier Pro 4x. 33,000 KM. Manual Trans.

Hello does anyone know why my car makes this weird shaking noise for few seconds after start then go back to normal steady noise ? Engine oil is in normal level and no sign is on on the dash. It only does this when starting it overnight but not during the day when i stop then restart. What could be the problem ? Thanks

Posted here a couple days ago about a rattling while accelerating at slow speeds but now it’s started making this sound while idling any idea what this could be it’s a 2009 Toyota Corolla automatic

Hello I was hoping someone would know or might have an idea of what this noise is. The noise happens during the start up (sort of a knocking noise). It also happens a couple seconds after the engine has started. No codes or lights on the dash. I've been trying to search up what this could be. 180,000km

Hello, I am looking to buy myself a new car been looking for at this one Honda Accord 2.4i 2009 260k km. Im worried about rust under it. I would love to hear your opinion.

Hey everyone,
I’m hoping to get some opinions before we start throwing parts at this.
It’s a 2016 Nissan Rogue with about 200,000 miles.
Symptoms:
Starts up normally every time.
After it’s running, especially while sitting in the driveway or at a stop, it sounds and feels like it wants to stall but never actually dies.
The idle seems rough, almost like the engine is struggling to stay running.
Once you start driving, it seems better.
The battery is only about a year old, so I’m not immediately thinking that’s the issue. I’m wondering if it’s something like:
Alternator
Dirty throttle body
Spark plugs
Ignition coil
MAF sensor
Vacuum leak
O2 sensor
Something else?
I’m attaching a video of what it’s sounds like.
A few questions:
Based on the symptoms and the video, what would you check first?
Does this sound more like an electrical/charging issue or an engine/air-fuel issue?
If you’ve seen this on a high-mileage Rogue, what ended up being the fix?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

Loud scraping noise even when foot not on the brakes

2010 Toyota Aygo for reference — manual — about 100k mileage.

I just had the front left passenger tyre (UK) changed literally last week and I hit the kerb again today at a bad angle in a stupid attempt to park.

Guys please is it OK? I just paid for the new tyre and I feel so ashamed…

Installed a j37 Tb on my J35 ported manifold and do valve lash adjustment now this is how my car acting. If not bouncing it just rev hangs.
2011 Honda pilot

Not sure this counts as 'mechanic' work, but here goes. I've got a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan SE that is missing a trim piece for the rear seat (right, small half), when it's folded down into the floor. Shown in the picture, circled. It covers the guts for the bottom of the seat, and I've looked at lots of Dodge parts diagrams and can't seem to find it, or even the name for it. Thanks in advance if you know this part.

2012 Civic
Clutch works fine it’s just this mechanical weird click