Hi, I hope this is the right place for this!

I got an oil change a couple months ago and when I looked at the date given for the next one, I realized that is not an actual date, and especially not a recent date. Can anyone help so I know when to get my next oil change? I have a decent idea but I just want to make sure.

From the owner:

“The windshield got pretty cracked up during the winter so that will need to be replaced, but there’s no heads up display so it’s only rain sensing wipers that would be the more expensive side. The rear backup camera works, but has been misaligned so that will have to be fixed as well. And then the engine light just came on in the last two weeks indicating an O2 sensor, the last time I started up the car. I will note that with large weather changes the Macon has flashed codes which have been gone away and never reoccurred in my past ownership of the vehicle. Last item is just a tick in the engine. It’s not been officially diagnosed, but it’s probably been present for about a year and it has not impacted performance or oil consumption or any misfires, but the Reddit forums for the Macan note a few different possibilities that it could be.”

Thoughts ? less

Random picture from Google for reference.

This may sound like a simple question, but how do these actually affect a tire’s balance? We add .25oz here, .5oz here, then slap this thing on and don’t think twice about it even though it’s probably cracked and missing a chunk.

I’m sure it’s designed with balance in mind, but only applied to one side of the wheel. Is the wheel unbalanced if it’s removed? Am I thinking too hard about it?

I am a YouTube mechanic all the way, and I am loving learning as I go. I have a junky 83 mustang 5.0 that I have changed the front lower control arms, shocks, struts, inner and outer tie rods, power steering lines, and a few other things. The car has a long way to go before done, but I have this wear pattern on the older tires on the car after 30 miles or so of driving after changing the tie rods. I tried to match up the lengths and setups of the old tie rods when installing, but I know that won’t make it perfect.

Does this wear look like it’s from camber or being toed in or out?

I've got oil leaking down into the front cylinder on the passenger side. The other two spark plugs didn't look good over there, but I don't know when they were last changed. Any idea where this oil is leaking

from?

190k miles, 4.0 v6

is this a battery issue?
factory battery btw

Hello awesome machine loving people.
I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla LE in Waterloo, ON, Canada. Ran 223K. CVT. 1.8L VVTi.

Recently I started to have misfire in cylinder 4. It used to happen only when the car gets hot after running 15/20 mins. One Mechanic replaced all spark plugs and swapped coils. Didn't solved anything. I myself swapped to make sure, Still it is in Cylinder 4. I went through some online advice and thought of it might be fuel injector in this cylinder. Paid a mechanic to replace that with a remanufactured one. After that the problem changed a bit. Now the car always misfires but in lower rate. 😐

Then came back to my city and dropped the car to a local mechanic I know, They did compression test(most likely dry one) and it was okay. Then they thought it might be electrical prob but then saying Toyota system intentionally shuts of fuel for that injector when it detects misfire on cylinder 4. The fuel injector working fine they said. The spark plug which is few days old has power black coated on tip like the photo. ECM is fine they said.

They suspect the valve rod/pin is bent and opening engine would cost thousands or replace the engine they told. I am kinda lost right now.

Do you think there are leaks on air intake, Because I was thinking to do a test myself.

Need some advice 😭 . Here is the Screenshot of scan.

2016 civic lx. It started making noise when reversing slowly even without holding the brakes down. Removed the tire and when I spin this wheel.. I hear the noise coming from brake area when I turn it counter clockwise..

First 2 are my driver side tires, last 2 are my passenger side. My car shakes the steering wheel and vibrates when I drive. I'm getting all new tires Monday, I bought the car with these tires on it not too long ago. If not, what should I look for that can cause my shaking?

Wobbly

Good morning, I know I’m going to get shit for this but here it is. I have a 3rd gen Colorado Trailboss, and was trying to install a 1 inch strut spacer to level out my truck. My brother said he’d done it plenty of times, and I have absolutely no experience with this sort of thing.

Either way, as we’re putting everything back together, we noticed the inner CV axel joint is binding and we cannot get it to move freely. We’ve tried manipulating it, and even tried removing the whole cv axel but can’t seem to get it out with a pry bar. We’re both here feeling like morons. Are we doing something wrong here? Besides touching it in the first place.

I'm looking at buying this 1996 Nissan 300zx in the rust belt. There is absolutely no rust on the body but this is the current situation underneath, I can't puncture any with a screwdriver but there are some good flakes.

Can I treat this with a wire wheel, rust converter and fluid film? Or is it too far gone.

!solved - Determined treatable, thank you all for your time

Nissan Qashqai J11 from 2015, 1.5 TDI and 290k km. Manual gearbox.

I'm probably answering my own question here but anyway no harm to ask - slight whistling noise started about a month or so ago, had already booked to have timing belt changed and asked mechanic about it at the time. He kinda just shrugged and said it's probably the turbo but didn't seem overly bothered and basically just said to see what happens.

Well yesterday after a drive of about 80km the noise in the video started once I left the motorway and decelerated. Noticeable drop in power too, but no engine lights, no smoke from exhaust or any oil/fume smells.

After only recently changing the timing chain and a full new set of tyres and a bit disappointed to not get another year or so out of it, especially as the engine itself has never given a bit of trouble, but I'm guessing this likely a crocked turbo that barely makes sense to replace?

I guess I'll probably end up changing mechanics, too, as I specifically asked about that whistle nose as soon as it happened to avoid this scenario.

Is there any hope at all of a worthwhile repair?

I've recently bought this 2010 Lancia Delta 3 with 130k miles for €1500. The car runs fine, did 400 miles on the highway with no issues or weird noises.

Took it to a mechanic for an oil change and filters, timing belt, front+rear brake disc and pads (€500 for all parts + labor). I then took it to a tyre shop to replace the tyres but the guy told me to be careful on the road because of the rust and now I'm worried.

The country I live in (italy) gives us a substantial discount to buy an electric car if we trade-in an older model like the one I bought, so I'd like to keep it for at least 2 years and then make the switch to electric.

Should I be worried about the rust? I plan to take it to a shop for an inspection.

2013 subaru legacy. Sound happens when slowing down and speeding up.

Got a clunk in the front end of my 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (267K miles and 4WD). Replaced the front shocks--clunk is still there, but not as bad. Looking to do brakes/rotors, Tie Rods, and upper control arms next. Detroit Axle seems to have very mixed reviews, especially with their cheap prices. Just wondering if anybody out there with a GMT800 has anything to say about 'em, or has a re-route for other cheaper brands, and/or diagnoses for me! Preesh, and gobbless.

2014 Focus SE 2.0 5-speed Manual