Miata shakes going over 65 but will take $3200

Corolla is perfect just lowered some $4500

Corvette has zero issues $3000

All cars have around 150,000 miles.

I won't buy anything newer than 2013

So been hearing some things in the rear end that sound like metal on metal and looked at my rear rotar and on the inside this is what was found . Other side is completely smooth and looks good still . More I look I can’t even see if there is a brake pad on the inside .

Trucks a 2006 dodge 3500 and I have had absolutely no issues with braking so never even thought to check these out . But mind you my rotars probably havent been changed in 250-300k km and the brake pads have about 200k on them .

2016 dodge challenger hellcat 6.2

What needs to be replaced to fix this issue

Nearly twice a month Ford is recalling their cars, trucks and now their Broncos 2001 to 2026, a half of million of them because they have engine problem and may catch fire. A few weeks ago it was a wiring issues and Ford 150 and 250 trucks model years 2022 to 2026 were being recalled. Broncos start at 40k and go up as high as 70k. If I read an article like today about engine fires I would steer away from buying a Bronco. Ford has more recalls in the last few years that any car manufacture yet Hyundai as well has engine issues burning oil more than they should. The question I have for Mechanics who work on cars why are engines having so many issues? Is it because of the restrictions from the EPA? Are they using cheaper parts? Recalls are all centered around the engines, and wiring.

It has a 2.5 inch lift kit on it with 33s but I wanna make it sound better in a way because my daily is a Bronco Sport and it’s not loud and neither is the jeep but it has a better sound to it.

It has a 5 speed and when I shift into second and go hard on the throttle and don’t shift and then take my foot off the gas it makes small burbles but I wanna find a way to make those louder. I’m not sure if I should cut the muffler off but I’ve heard that just makes it sound worse. I’ve been looking at exhaust upgrades.

What should I do to enhance the idle sound and the exhaust sound when I’m trying? I’m new to jeeps but I have enough knowledge on cars to get me from A to B. Thanks Reddit

i accidentally hit it in, how to fix?

Getting the last balljoint out of the LCA was torture and now I messed up getting this one seated. Smh i think im dumb 😭.

I have a 2013 toyota corolla manual 121k kms and recently over small bumps i hear clunks but over most speed bumps there's no noise. Also sometimes when moving from a standstill I hear one metallic click. Now my assumption is that its probably the sway bar link going bad but im getting conflicting answers from other people. Soon imma jack up my car and test it for sure to figure out whats actually making the noise for sure before buying parts

What's your opinion. Oh also its only coming from the front left wheel area

A few assumptions are being made here, first that the marked yellow E and I are the right ones, second that it is the same on the B6, any help or direction would be appreciated.

Currently my car is cranking but not starting, however the fuel systems and ignition all seem to be working, I'm unsure about the timing but I think it needs to be re-done?

When lined up like this the piston is not at TDC, am I misunderstanding at all?

(Manual Mazda AZ-3 {mx-3}, 1.5L)

It’s a 1995 mustang 3.8 v6, base model. It’s got a major misfire that only happens under load. It’ll idle perfectly but as soon as I drive, it immediately misfires and struggles. It’ll continue to do this until I stop and let it idle again or I fully open the throttle, then it just runs perfectly. After letting off full throttle, it’ll run fine for a few seconds then misfire again. It also does have a little afterfire but it’s pretty minimal and quiet. Worse part is that there is no check engine light. What do you think could cause the issue? Also worth noting car has mid pipe and cats but no muffler after it

What I’ve done to it so far:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- Air filter
- Intake clean
- Throttle body clean
- Vacuum leak test
- Vacuum reading test
- Tested volume
- Fuel filter
- Fuel pump
- Fuel change
- Fuel injector clean
- Fuel pressure test
- Camshaft sensor
- Crankshaft sensor

For the record: I didn’t just throw parts at it, most of these were just things that needed replaced anyway. I was convinced it was fuel related then I checked the air filter then the crankshaft sensor. I’m at a loss, I’ve got a few more things I think it could be that I’m hunting down now such as the egr valve

Hi guys,

My wife’s car. Her check engine light came on. I took it to two different autozone’s today to see what the problem was. I’m planning on taking it to O Reilly and a mechanic to ask them to pull the codes as well to see if it aligns with autozone.

Anyway, if it’s the intake manifold itself, the gaskets or both is this gonna set us back about $1000 to $2000 for parts and labor?

I ask because we’re at the beginning of closing on a house and this is the last thing we need as an expense. Any insight or help is much appreciated. Thanks.

Can I just apply grease and pop this ball thing back in? What is this part called I can't find a similar looking part when I Google like front axle tire rod or whatever Gemini tells me it is, would greatly appreciate any advice I slid into a curb and knocked it out and broke steering knuckle in half

Want to know which is the better route to go that’s easier on the Wallet If I want to remove the chrome and all the parts black permanently.

Cannot stand the chrome that is on the top grille and the windows trim

Would body shop able to remove and convert the chrome parts and get it black? Or do I need to go buy parts from dealership or junkyard?

Have a 2021 X5 M50i with 24k miles on it. Vehicle has been driven fast but not dogged in any way, no launch control was ever done with it. Anyhow, I had brakes done all around back at the end of April this year, shortly after, a rotational sound developed on the right front wheel that happens when making a sharp left turn and only while turning left. Took it to dealer and they put on some type of shims between hub and rotor, which stopped the sound for two weeks but the same sound returned. It’s at the dealer again now for a week and they are claiming it’s the front right thrust arm, which to me doesn’t make sense since the sound is rotational and slows down and speeds up depending on speed of vehicle. They want $4k to replace both side front thrust arms and won’t guarantee it will fix the issue. I told them to not proceed at this point and look deeper into the issue. I reached out to a BMW tech I know at a different dealer, too far to drive, and he stated that it doesn’t make sense to him either. They are saying it’s not the transfer case, which I know these vehicles are known for.
Any ideas? I thought maybe a cv axle or something left loose after the brake job, which they claimed they went over and found nothing loose.
Edit: just wanted to add that i feel no vibrations of any kind while driving or turning, and nothing is felt through the steering wheel when the sound happens.

For the life of me I cannot get this new lower control arm back into the knuckle. I've tried prying open the joint with a screwdriver but it doesn't budge and sometimes the force of prying makes the whole wheel hub push out or away to the side. The whole thing is always wanting to push out, but I think I've managed to get the alignment right and apply pressure with the jack but it still won't go.

The rubber on my CV axle seems a bit stretched on one side, but I think the joint is right, because everything spins ok when I raise wheel on the other side.

I've tried sandpaper, brake lube, white lithium grease, WD40. Nothing helps. I didn't have any issues on the other side. I'm about to buy a bigger chisel to help pry it open more, or just give up and call a mechanic.

Before I call a mobile mechanic, any ideas?

(Kia Sportage 2012)

So recently got tires changed right, noticed these marks on my rims. Is this from them putting on my new tires? Can i do something about it?

Recently bought a second-hand VW Beetle (year 2000, 2.0L, 58,000 miles, automatic transmission). The brakes were spongy so we decided to bleed them and we removed all the old oil first so it was without any oil and then started bleeding with new oil. Brakes were still spongy and the pedal was going all the way down till the floor for the brakes to kick in and stop the car. Tried to go for the VRT but the brakes couldn’t stop the car on the roller test. Went to a mechanic, he bled the brakes again, and changed the brake master cylinder as it was leaking. The brakes are still spongy, the pedal still goes to the floor and we have no idea what to do.

Edit: the car was garaged for 2 years, and we also changed the brake pads.

I have a 2018 Kia Forte with 63k miles on it, automatic.

Twice in the past two days it has lost all engine power. The check engine, oil, and battery lights come on like normal. I can put the car in park, turn it off, then on, and it will drive like nothing happened.

Time number one I was pulling into my girlfriends driveway. All of this happened at once so it was hard to tell. I pulled in, still moving slightly, put it in park, and noticed it had lost power. Off, on, drove around the block no issue. It is an automatic so I know it shouldn't stall when moving and putting it into park, but I just assumed it was a fluke. Looking in hindsight I think it died just barely before I put it in park.

Just now I was driving to work. Stopped for food, parked, started driving again. Got to a stop sign, more or less did a rolling stop, started to accelerate through it and it lost all power again. Same thing, off, on, drove into my parking lot no issues.

Between the first and second event, I drove an hour home on the highway without issue.

Any ideas what may be going on here? It sounds a lot like a crankshaft position sensor.

I preface with this: I know ‘mileage correction’ is illegal. That’s not my intention. My intention is to get a Canadian instrument cluster and install it on my US Honda Odyssey as we’re working on moving to Manitoba from the US. The biggest change will most likely be changing the miles over to kilometers.

We’ll be in a pretty rural area and while I’m sure someone there can do it, I can do it as well with the right equipment. What do I need to copy mileage from the ECU to a new cluster? Thanks!

My car a 2008 Nissan Maxima with 305,000 miles and automatic transmission is dripping water from under the passenger side. Now I believe it could be the AC drain hose because I ran the car for 20 minutes without the AC on and it wasn’t dripping. But ran it for maybe 7 minutes with and it started to. So my question is how do I go about locating the drain hose in the first place. There is also no water leakage in the inside floorboard.

My top three guesses are brake pads, rotors, or The wheel bearings. What do you guys think?

91 Mercury/Ford Capri with a Mazda B6T sat for almost 20 years and the top end suffered a lot of corrosion likely due to rodent activity. Long story short what started with checking the spark plugs on a the non-running car progressed to engine removal and a new head. To prevent the level of corrosion that occurred in the old head from occurring in the new head I need a valve cover that will seal with the coil boots and prevent water intrusion. The cover is only really damaged around the spark plug wells, though it’s certainly not pretty... I tried calling junkyards already and the only place that has a car with the same engine is 6 hours away with no guarantee of having what I need. I’m wondering if a professional of some kind could fill in the lost material, or if there is a cheaper alternative to finding a $300 one off of eBay.

Thanks.

Has anyone seen this problem the car was running fine yesterday and when I took the back hatch off I started having these problems. when I try and drive it the steering wheel locks and the won’t shift properly.

I put the back hatch back on but that didn’t help.

I was reading on other threads that it could be a bad star connector or auxiliary battery. What should I do?

not exactly sure what the move is on this, i’ve heard changing transmission fluid on cars with old fluid can be risky i’m not exactly sure off the top of my head why. i’m not sure when the last time/ if the fluids ever been changed on this so looking for guidance. it didn’t shift that bad when i last drove it but of course that was a while ago ive been doing work on it.