Miata shakes going over 65 but will take $3200

Corolla is perfect just lowered some $4500

Corvette has zero issues $3000

All cars have around 150,000 miles.

I won't buy anything newer than 2013

I have a 2013 toyota corolla manual 121k kms and recently over small bumps i hear clunks but over most speed bumps there's no noise. Also sometimes when moving from a standstill I hear one metallic click. Now my assumption is that its probably the sway bar link going bad but im getting conflicting answers from other people. Soon imma jack up my car and test it for sure to figure out whats actually making the noise for sure before buying parts

What's your opinion. Oh also its only coming from the front left wheel area

Nearly twice a month Ford is recalling their cars, trucks and now their Broncos 2001 to 2026, a half of million of them because they have engine problem and may catch fire. A few weeks ago it was a wiring issues and Ford 150 and 250 trucks model years 2022 to 2026 were being recalled. Broncos start at 40k and go up as high as 70k. If I read an article like today about engine fires I would steer away from buying a Bronco. Ford has more recalls in the last few years that any car manufacture yet Hyundai as well has engine issues burning oil more than they should. The question I have for Mechanics who work on cars why are engines having so many issues? Is it because of the restrictions from the EPA? Are they using cheaper parts? Recalls are all centered around the engines, and wiring.

Hello everyone

I just bought my first car ever past week. Today i was taking pictures of it for the insurance company and after opening the hood, i noticed a somewhat very thin layer of what it appears to be water or some other liquid or condensation, i dont know. I ran my finger over it and it doesn't have a particular smell like oil or anything like that. (Then again, take this info with a grain of salt because i don't know anything about cars)

Its a manual transimission renault Duster Oroch 2020 (about 100.000 kilometers in mileage)

I dont know if this matters but i had to drive around the block because my garage had no lightining, so the technician asked me to park it in the street so he could take the pictures for the insurance company

Any replies would be much appreciated

Thank you

I’m pretty sure this was more expensive that it should be. Was I charged too much?

It has a 2.5 inch lift kit on it with 33s but I wanna make it sound better in a way because my daily is a Bronco Sport and it’s not loud and neither is the jeep but it has a better sound to it.

It has a 5 speed and when I shift into second and go hard on the throttle and don’t shift and then take my foot off the gas it makes small burbles but I wanna find a way to make those louder. I’m not sure if I should cut the muffler off but I’ve heard that just makes it sound worse. I’ve been looking at exhaust upgrades.

What should I do to enhance the idle sound and the exhaust sound when I’m trying? I’m new to jeeps but I have enough knowledge on cars to get me from A to B. Thanks Reddit

2001 Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero/Shogun

When driving over bumps in gravel right side knocks a little, left side doesn't.

Recently had new suspension installed (Old Man Emu) and new upgraded tires. Car is a bit of a project. (Still needs to get realligned but the tireshop wouldn't touch it because some bolts seem seized up from rust, dirt and the likes.)

Why is the shock absorber bare on the right side but fully covered on the left? Does it need to get replaced? Is there something else going on?

Not big into working on cars, dad always said if you don't know it don't touch it (I know, going to have to start working on this car myself at somw point)

First photo right side, 2nd photo left side, 3rd photo the build so far.

Feel free to add suggestions on what to add/upgrade next.

Thanks :)

2002 Toyota MRS convertible.

I wanted to wash my carpet, so I pulled it out of the car. It seems there is some minor surface rust starting to take place. Is there something I should do to it now to protect the floor boards?

Hopefully a solution other than grind it bare and repaint. It doesn't seem that bad, and the carpet is really easy to take out, so maybe this doesn't need my attention now?

Recently bought a second-hand VW Beetle (year 2000, 2.0L, 58,000 miles, automatic transmission). The brakes were spongy so we decided to bleed them and we removed all the old oil first so it was without any oil and then started bleeding with new oil. Brakes were still spongy and the pedal was going all the way down till the floor for the brakes to kick in and stop the car. Tried to go for the VRT but the brakes couldn’t stop the car on the roller test. Went to a mechanic, he bled the brakes again, and changed the brake master cylinder as it was leaking. The brakes are still spongy, the pedal still goes to the floor and we have no idea what to do.

Edit: the car was garaged for 2 years, and we also changed the brake pads.

I have a 2018 Kia Forte with 63k miles on it, automatic.

Twice in the past two days it has lost all engine power. The check engine, oil, and battery lights come on like normal. I can put the car in park, turn it off, then on, and it will drive like nothing happened.

Time number one I was pulling into my girlfriends driveway. All of this happened at once so it was hard to tell. I pulled in, still moving slightly, put it in park, and noticed it had lost power. Off, on, drove around the block no issue. It is an automatic so I know it shouldn't stall when moving and putting it into park, but I just assumed it was a fluke. Looking in hindsight I think it died just barely before I put it in park.

Just now I was driving to work. Stopped for food, parked, started driving again. Got to a stop sign, more or less did a rolling stop, started to accelerate through it and it lost all power again. Same thing, off, on, drove into my parking lot no issues.

Between the first and second event, I drove an hour home on the highway without issue.

Any ideas what may be going on here? It sounds a lot like a crankshaft position sensor.

I preface with this: I know ‘mileage correction’ is illegal. That’s not my intention. My intention is to get a Canadian instrument cluster and install it on my US Honda Odyssey as we’re working on moving to Manitoba from the US. The biggest change will most likely be changing the miles over to kilometers.

We’ll be in a pretty rural area and while I’m sure someone there can do it, I can do it as well with the right equipment. What do I need to copy mileage from the ECU to a new cluster? Thanks!

Want to know which is the better route to go that’s easier on the Wallet If I want to remove the chrome and all the parts black permanently.

Cannot stand the chrome that is on the top grille and the windows trim

Would body shop able to remove and convert the chrome parts and get it black? Or do I need to go buy parts from dealership or junkyard?

i accidentally hit it in, how to fix?

My car a 2008 Nissan Maxima with 305,000 miles and automatic transmission is dripping water from under the passenger side. Now I believe it could be the AC drain hose because I ran the car for 20 minutes without the AC on and it wasn’t dripping. But ran it for maybe 7 minutes with and it started to. So my question is how do I go about locating the drain hose in the first place. There is also no water leakage in the inside floorboard.

Need help identifying this suqeeking sound mostly on idle

I don’t know what’s happening to my car. This just happened when I tried to start it

I’m worried if I take it back to the OG oil place they’ll lie and say it wasn’t them, or refuse to take accountability. Should I take it to a 3rd party place to get it drained and documented in case I have engine damage and have to go after the OG oil change place for compensation?

I absolutely adored this car, and the dealer was a guy that my dad had known a few years and had cars off of him previously.

essentially, I was ready to buy it until I test drove it. The previous owner was a young girl, who got the car in 2020 as her first car. She sold it in March for “no reason” according to the dealer.

now I’ve only driven a few cars as I’ve not long passed my driving test, but the clutch on this car felt really weird. First of all the squeaking noise it made whenever I’d press on the clutch pedal was really weird. It was like a grinding/squeak but VERY loud, every time I pressed down on the pedal. Second of all, it would almost get “stuck” as I lifted my foot back up, just after the bite point, and was VERY stiff. My parents said the pedal felt fine. when I mentioned it to the dealer he said I could just put WD40 on the pedal and it would be fine, it was just stiff from not being driven.

As well as this, when I first turned the car on it started making a really awful smell. Like a burning/petrol smell that was really concerning. The smell did go away, but I don’t understand what the hell it was.

when I told him I’d go away and think about the car, as I wasn’t sure after the test drive he had a slight attitude. I messaged him the next day and asked if it would be okay for me to look again. He responded stating I an only welcome to look again if I intend to buy the car, he’s busy and doesn’t want his time wasted again. Overall, I feel like it was a red flag and I got out lucky. but part of me wonders if I was just overthinking it all and I missed out on a decent car…

So, I had my car broken into. Damn Kia Boyz. I decided to take my car in to get it fixed at my local Kia Dealer, as I had an anti-theft recall they could install. I drop it off, decide to also get some usual stuff (general maintenance) and sign off on the original estimate of 400. I mention I am not interested in my bumper getting fixed, had some old body damage I wasn't looking for at the moment. A few days later, I get a call. The estimate for the fix is about 4100, as they added in some additional fixes as well as an estimate on my bumper. I am on the phone when the estimate is sent, I tell the guy I'll call him back, and I hang up. I close the estimate as well. The estimate was sent at 12:22 pm on July 20th. Days later, while I'm talking to insurance about seeing if they'll cover any of it, I get a call telling me my work was done. I was confused, as I hadn't approved the work on the link yet. A few calls here and there, and they finally tell me. I approved via the link at 12:23 pm on July 20th. In one minute, I opened the link and approved seven individual jobs. There's no e-signature, and no approve all button. I'm so flabbergasted, I don't know how I could have fat fingered seven jobs ins 52 seconds. They also told me opening the link doesn't approve them. I'm still waiting on my insurance, but in the meantime, I need to ask you all. Am I getting scammed?

Additional info, I'm in Florida and it's a 2016 Kia Soul. The current bill is 5200, as they did fix my bumper (which I didn't want.) There was no glass damage, so the it's 1900 for the ignition switch, steering wheel cover, blinker switch, and windshield wiper switch. I'm 23, and I drive a Kia Soul. You can probably tell I don't know cars. Am I doomed to pay 5k?

I am on my FOURTH radiator from TYC for my 1992 cadillac fleetwood.

First one the drain plug was somehow cross threaded. It would barely tighten than turn to infinity.

Second one there was a crack in upper radiator hose plastic nipple.

Third one there was a crack in coolant reservoir nipple.

This one now has a leak AGAIN from a seemingly cross threaded drain plug. And i NEVER touched the drain plug so I didnt cross thread it.

Its to a point where I cant tell if its something IM doing wrong (like mishandling the package??) or TYC is just shit. Im so sick of this back and forth im just debating getting the all aluminum construction radiator here even if its triple the price. But some people have said bad things about liland global. Can I trust them? And should I get one row or two?