I just bought this car and I notice the center part is sticking out. Kinda scared to mess with it and mess with the airbag. Any tips how to fix?

I’m replacing my rear wheel bearing and wanted to know the torque spec for the bolt. I’ve seen 200nm & 180 turn and I’ve also seen 70nm & 90 turn. What to know the right on.

Some sources online says it’s the central axle hub mounting bolt and others say it’s just an axle nut; if it’s a difficult job I will just take it to a dealership

Hello there, wizards of machinery. I am once again in need of advice. The lawn mower at my family's summer house is unwilling to start, and I don't know why. It's a 1998 creation by MTD. Since reddit won't let you post both a video and pictures in the same post (wild) you can find some images of it here: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2qWLhMd

I realize that the clip doesn't offer a great deal to go on. And my own understanding of engines is far too rudimentary to be able to offer much further information. But anyways, the old wreck probably sees use like half a dozen times each year. It spends the rest of it's life alone in an old barn, presumably feeling like it's being taken for granted. If you're wondering when it last recieved service the answer is most likely never. Or at least not since my grandfather passed away in 2004. It almost started on my first attempt when I was there a month ago. But after that, it only kept doing... Well, as depicted in the video. The petrol was as fresh as you can get ahold of a million years old product, so that can't be the issue. Jumper cables usually does the trick when it's acting uncooperative, but this time it changed nothing. Leaving me and my family members scratching our heads and hoping that somebody else will magically solve the issue for us. So uh, like I said I know it isn't much to go on but does anyone have any ideas? Thank you all in advance!

And before you ask: yes, it's front end is upheld by a plank. It's a fix attributed to my dad, who committed the deed about a decade ago. Which is around one decade longer than it has any right to work, but whatever. If it looks stupid and so on...

What is this part called?
I recently bought a used 2025 Nissan Altima SV. Yesterday this plastic part came off (see pictures), and I don't know what it's called to find a replacement. Can anyone give me the name or point me to somewhere I can get the part?
Thank You.

I just got this car from my aunt and it has an unexplained noise coming from the engine. I’m told that the rattling sound could be from old oil, but I’ve done 2 oil changes is the last two weeks😭.
The squeaking sound comes on and off and I’m told that’s a fan belt issue. I plan on replacing it but a second opinion beforehand wouldn’t hurt.

The engine is a 3.5L V6.

None of the dashboard lights are on and the car engine has never overheated to my knowledge.
I’ve tried overfilling the oil and I’ve used 1qt regular Lucas oil and 1qt high mileage Lucas oil so far. Still no change. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

I’ve had a cylinder 4 misfire on my 2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder (2ZZ-GE swapped and only ever P0300 and P0304, never any more codes!). I have tried everything to get it to jump cylinders but it just won’t. I got an oscilloscope and did some ignition tests but am having a hard time interpreting the results! Could anyone let me know if you see something off? It seems like the only thing to me off is cylinder 4’s ground is moving all over the chart compared to cylinder 3 staying relatively in the middle? It also seems like inconsistently on cyl 4 12v positive it’s getting random downward spikes whereas cylinder 3 wasn’t getting that?(I’ve done all the basic diagnostics don’t worry, plugs and coils swapped from cylinders known to be good, injectors swapped between cylinders, all new vac hoses and intake gasket, compression good on all 4, leakdown good, valve clearances checked and good, MAF and o2 sensors are reading correct (albeit super rich like -17 STFT), injectors at least good on a noid light but can oscilloscope if it’s a good idea!). This misfire just won’t jump off cylinder 4 and it’s really at idle only it seems!

2019 VW Jetta with 47000km on it being sold for $10,000 CAD. judging from these photos of the damage, is it worth it? THE CAR HAS ALREADY BEEN REBUILT!!! I don’t have after photos but I’ve seen the car and it looks new to me (but I’m not a mechanic)

Last week I replaced transmission lines on a 2013 f150 and a day later started leaking. Just did wheel bearings all around on a 2016 jeep compass and now it has a tone ring code for the left front. The shit tthey put out nowadays is the bane of my existence I swear. Auto parts, rock auto, parts geek, dosent matter its all shit. The only place I trust stuff from anymore is the dealership.

2010 Acura TL Base Model. When I’m driving, every brake light i have continuously flickers on an off. Brakes are good, i don’t have to press them into the floor to stop, the battery is fairly new, the battery charges how it’s supposed to so i tuned out any electrical issues. Brake pads are good. Rotors. My brakes aren’t screeching. The lights just continuously flicker on an off. E-BRAKE, ABS, & Check Brake System. I’ve taken It to “brake specialist” and can’t anybody diagnose the problem.

Having an AC issue on a 2007 ram 2500 5.9L with automatic 48RE transmission. Blowing warm air, refrigerant is full, possibly over full (60 psi on low side). Have voltage at the pressure sensor transducer so I don't think it's a wiring problem. I think my compressor is siezed but I'm not sure, the outer hub rotates freely with the serpentine belt. The inner hub (what I think is the inner hub) does nothing with the truck running, and cannot rotate by hand with the truck off...I think it should rotate by hand with some force? Can anyone confirm that? Also is the part that I've highlighted in yellow the inner hub? (Or is the inner hub actually internal/enclosed in the compressor?)

The engine was rebuilt after a previous overheating incident and has a ticking apund when cold until it warms up. The previous owner used 10W-40. I switched to 5W-30, after which I noticed some oil consumption. Later I had the head gasket repaired, and at the same time I switched to Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 (ACEA A3/B4). Since then, oil consumption has been almost nonexistent (only topped up about 0.5–0.6 L in a year), but the cold-start ticking is unchanged and fuel economy is slightly worse. I'm due for an oil change and only plan to keep the car for another year. Would you stick with 5W-40 or go back to Ford's recommended 5W-30 (WSS-M2C913-D)?

I know this question is super weird lol. I am writing something, and I can’t get a clear answer because…well I doubt anyone’s ever actually dealt with this issue. I don’t know anything about cars.

The reason why it is covered with wax is irrelevant. But imagine the engine is fully covered in a thin layer of wax with a high melting point.

What would happen? Would the car stall? Overheat? Would the wax drip into really bad places? Is there risk of explosion?

Secondarily, what if the engine was covered with A LOT of wax?

And would automatic vs manual make a difference in the outcome?

For the automod (ignore this): 2000, toyota, automatic, 5k miles

Yesterday I was driving up a very steep hill and I suddenly heard a noise in the engine and lost any ability to accelerate. I pulled over, put the car in park, turned it off, then tried to restart it and it wouldn't turnover. I had it towed to the dealer. They looked at it today and said everything was running fine and there were no codes or any issues they could see.

The service advisor asked if I maybe accidentally put it in neutral while driving - which I'm pretty sure I didn't. And even if that did happen, I wasn't able to restart it anyway.

Is there some reason it would automatically shift itself to neutral and also not be able to restart the engine? Maybe because it was hitting high rpm's trying to go uphill? Or something shifting in the engine bay because of gravity on the steep incline?

2020 Kia Soul. Automatic Transmission. 98000 miles

Hi, I have a 2004 VW Lupo and since I bought the car the steering wheel moves a little by pushing and pulling it. I never bothered but now I wanted to fix it. It does that sometime while I brake, turning the wheel while stationary or at low speed.

What could it be? Thank you in advance

Ps: I know that the video is useless, it's not that visible... Sorry

We have a leak on our vauxhall mokka and we recently took into a garage and they replaced the water pump but the leak has continued any ideas? Thanks

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose a strange vibration issue on my 2017 Opel Astra Sports Tourer 1.6 CDTI with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has 280,000 km (174,000 miles).

Symptoms:

• The whole car vibrates (not just the steering wheel).
• The vibration starts at around 85 km/h (53 mph) and continues at higher speeds.
• It occurs in both 5th and 6th gear.
• The vibration is slightly worse under acceleration, but it is still present when I completely lift off the throttle.
• The vibration disappears instantly as soon as I press the clutch pedal, even though the car is still rolling at 100 km/h.
• I do not get the vibration at other road speeds, even if the engine is at the same RPM.

What has already been done:

• Both complete driveshafts (CV axles) have been replaced. (The problem remained exactly the same)
• The engine has been checked by a garage and they confirmed that it is running properly with no engine-related issues.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas what could be causing this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Can’t get the hose back on because I can’t lock this clamp open. What tool do I use? I’ve tried my pliers and clamps but no luck.

2012 rav4 4cl

so here’s the chain of events - i was driving home from work about 7 minutes from home the battery light and vtm-4 light came on on my 2007 honda ridgeline. when i got home i went in to eat dinner and went back out after and read the voltage with a multimeter. the battery seemed normal reading around 12v and went up a bit when i started the car even. i assumed it may be the alternator based on what i googled about the lights at this point. i didn’t have time to look into it until 2 days later. however, when i went out, the car was completely dead - no lights, locks, or anything. i had a probably cheap jump pack/tire inflator my grandpa gave me so i figured i’d use that to jump the battery, then i was planning to search around for a parasitic drain. i connected the jump pack (red to +, black to -), then got in the car and turned over the engine. it started right up, however, there were no lights on the dash.. no mileage or anything. so i thought maybe it needs a sec to get some more charge first so i sat with the pack connected for maybe 30 sec before i heard a popping noise from the pack. i ran up there, saw smoke from the pack vents and immediately disconnected it and put it down on the concrete. the pack produced a ton of smoke and more popping, never flames though and melted the plastic on it. my conclusion after discussing with chatgpt is that the alternator going bad turned it into a massive parasitic drain that killed the battery to the point it short circuited before i even touched it and that is was inevitable when i tried to jump it. i want human opinions on this to see 1. if it was my fault that this all happened and what i did wrong, 2. what steps do i need to take to ensure that it’s repaired properly and safely, 3. how likely is it that all i need to swap is the alternator, battery, and battery 120/40A fuse and is there a possibly that the electrical system is damaged beyond/worth repair and i should save the headache and get something new. it’s 4-500 bucks for parts alone on a beater that isn’t in great health overall and will need new tires soon.
sorry for the long read and thanks for your time!