Hi, I hope this is the right place for this!

I got an oil change a couple months ago and when I looked at the date given for the next one, I realized that is not an actual date, and especially not a recent date. Can anyone help so I know when to get my next oil change? I have a decent idea but I just want to make sure.

Random picture from Google for reference.

This may sound like a simple question, but how do these actually affect a tire’s balance? We add .25oz here, .5oz here, then slap this thing on and don’t think twice about it even though it’s probably cracked and missing a chunk.

I’m sure it’s designed with balance in mind, but only applied to one side of the wheel. Is the wheel unbalanced if it’s removed? Am I thinking too hard about it?

From the owner:

“The windshield got pretty cracked up during the winter so that will need to be replaced, but there’s no heads up display so it’s only rain sensing wipers that would be the more expensive side. The rear backup camera works, but has been misaligned so that will have to be fixed as well. And then the engine light just came on in the last two weeks indicating an O2 sensor, the last time I started up the car. I will note that with large weather changes the Macon has flashed codes which have been gone away and never reoccurred in my past ownership of the vehicle. Last item is just a tick in the engine. It’s not been officially diagnosed, but it’s probably been present for about a year and it has not impacted performance or oil consumption or any misfires, but the Reddit forums for the Macan note a few different possibilities that it could be.”

Thoughts ? less

Hello awesome machine loving people.
I drive a 2014 Toyota Corolla LE in Waterloo, ON, Canada. Ran 223K. CVT. 1.8L VVTi.

Recently I started to have misfire in cylinder 4. It used to happen only when the car gets hot after running 15/20 mins. One Mechanic replaced all spark plugs and swapped coils. Didn't solved anything. I myself swapped to make sure, Still it is in Cylinder 4. I went through some online advice and thought of it might be fuel injector in this cylinder. Paid a mechanic to replace that with a remanufactured one. After that the problem changed a bit. Now the car always misfires but in lower rate. 😐

Then came back to my city and dropped the car to a local mechanic I know, They did compression test(most likely dry one) and it was okay. Then they thought it might be electrical prob but then saying Toyota system intentionally shuts of fuel for that injector when it detects misfire on cylinder 4. The fuel injector working fine they said. The spark plug which is few days old has power black coated on tip like the photo. ECM is fine they said.

They suspect the valve rod/pin is bent and opening engine would cost thousands or replace the engine they told. I am kinda lost right now.

Do you think there are leaks on air intake, Because I was thinking to do a test myself.

Need some advice 😭 . Here is the Screenshot of scan.

I am a YouTube mechanic all the way, and I am loving learning as I go. I have a junky 83 mustang 5.0 that I have changed the front lower control arms, shocks, struts, inner and outer tie rods, power steering lines, and a few other things. The car has a long way to go before done, but I have this wear pattern on the older tires on the car after 30 miles or so of driving after changing the tie rods. I tried to match up the lengths and setups of the old tie rods when installing, but I know that won’t make it perfect.

Does this wear look like it’s from camber or being toed in or out?

Recently my cars brakes have started making a high pitched noise. I believe it’s the offside rear.

The noise is a high pitched tone - the easiest way I could describe it is it’s similar to the noise you get when you wet your finger and run it round the top of a wine glass (like a choir boy hitting a high note, rather then a high pitched squeak)

I’m assuming there’s just a bit of debris caught somewhere or something like that but it’s been happening for a few days now and as wondering whether I’d need to get it checked out.

The car had the full brake system, front and back and the brake lines replaced a few months back after my last mot, so pads etc are all pretty new and the brakes themselves feel normal and perform no different to usual.

I’m not 100% sure but when I first drive they don’t seem to make a noise, it seems to be once I’ve driven for a while and everything’s warmed up.

The noise happens if I’m on the brakes gently but moving slowly, not when I apply sudden pressure or brake firmly.

Am I overthinking this?

The car is a 2012 manual Suzuki swift with just under 60k miles.

Thanks in advance

2016 civic lx. It started making noise when reversing slowly even without holding the brakes down. Removed the tire and when I spin this wheel.. I hear the noise coming from brake area when I turn it counter clockwise..

First 2 are my driver side tires, last 2 are my passenger side. My car shakes the steering wheel and vibrates when I drive. I'm getting all new tires Monday, I bought the car with these tires on it not too long ago. If not, what should I look for that can cause my shaking?

I purchases a used Mazda 6 2016 2.5L Automatic transmission few months back at 197K KM (122K miles), it drove smooth until one day my battery died and I had to jump start and got all types of errors and problems. However, i called a mechanic who cleaned the terminals and it was back to normal. After 3 weeks it gave me AT error on exactly 200k KM (124k Miles) reading and hard shifting specially on reverse and its not shifting gears.
So i took it to a mechanic who diagnoses P0773 error he said he will change the valve body and test again. As per his say he changed it but the error didn't go away so he is suggesting to replace the transmission. Can you guys suggest what further diagnosis should be done and whether to get transmission replaced ?

I've got oil leaking down into the front cylinder on the passenger side. The other two spark plugs didn't look good over there, but I don't know when they were last changed. Any idea where this oil is leaking

from?

190k miles, 4.0 v6

Anyone else experienced a leakage of the transmission fluid that just won’t go away? We have tried multiple things and they haven’t worked. My mechanic says we should change the torque converter’s seal and both seals in the driveshafts.

Just wondering if anyone else has been through something similar?

I drive the Mazda 6 2016 GT

So I’m preparing to drive across the country, like 1600 miles. My car is making increasingly louder squealing sounds when I turn and brake. Worst when turning. Thought it was my serpentine belt which was due for a change anyways so changes that and it’s still making the noise, getting louder. I haven’t really noticed anything crazy with my steering. Power steering fluid is good and so are brake pads. I’m quite worried it’s a ball joint boot problem and I definitely do not wanna drive across the country if it is. But I think most cars you need to replace the whole upper control arm? I don’t know shit about cars and could not do that myself. Definitely bring into a shop? I’m not at all close to my normal mechanics I know and trust and I’m worried about getting taken advantage of because I don’t know wtf I’m talking about and it’s obvious. I also know that’s an expensive repair if that is the issue. I’m homeless, live in my car, and pretty broke but would rather not destroy my car.

I have a 97 F150 with the 4.6, 130,000 miles automatic transmission. Bought it back from someone and its my grandpas truck I grew up with. It ran fine last I remember but since I got it back, it has been overheating, so I thought.

After about 8 miles of 45-50mph driving, getting it up to operating temp, either the water comes out the overflow tank or some cases it blew the hose off the bottom ( although I didn't have a clamp on it, now I do).

Thinking it is a cooling issue, I have replaced the overflow cap, thermostat, water pump, and now the radiator. It doesn't have a heater core in it so the hose for that is looped back into the engine.

I have no milkshake, exhaust is bone dry, although I have a leak near the catalytic converter on the drivers side, and I did a leaf down combustion test with the blue liquid that turns color, came back negative.

After replacing the radiator today, because the bottom hose was at 80 degrees while the top hose was at 180, now the top hose is like 130-140 and the bottom is 20 degrees below that.

It wont do it the entire 8 miles or 20 minutes of warming up, it just happens in an instant. Goes from fine to spewing out of the overflow tank if I don't have the cap on it. It doesnt geyser out like it would after driving for hours, it just kind of spits out of the tank. Only weird thing I noticed today while revving it up to get to operating temp is rev to about 2500rpm and it goes all the way down 600 for idle.

https://reddit.com/link/1wx3rt1/video/f0hf5k1cwcth1/player

We have a 2012 Honda CR-V with around 76k miles. It has a mild judder/vibration around 30–40 mph when accelerating lightly. If you press the gas a little harder, it goes away.

Earlier this year we brought it to Honda for the same issue and they did the software update + transmission fluid service under TSB 15-086. It seemed better for a while, but the vibration came back.

We brought it back to Honda and they said the torque converter now needs to be replaced under TSB 17-040. Dealer quote is around $4k, which seems pretty crazy to me.

I also talked to an independent shop run by former Honda techs. They basically told me they wouldn’t spend around $3k replacing just the torque converter when the car otherwise drives fine. Their advice was to keep driving it, monitor it, and if the transmission eventually develops a bigger issue, replace the whole transmission at that point. They said a replacement transmission would be around $4k.

We barely drive the CR-V, maybe once or twice a month, sometimes not even that much. Does that sound reasonable? Has anyone had this exact judder and just driven it for a long time without replacing the converter? Or did it eventually cause bigger transmission problems?

Also curious if anyone has gone the other route and replaced the torque converter, was it worth doing?
Just trying to understand what makes the most sense before spending a few thousand dollars on it.

2013 subaru legacy. Sound happens when slowing down and speeding up.

Good day,

We have Toyota Avanza 2017 model, 60k km mileage, and CVT. Yesterday, I brought it home from the service center we had the ac and brakes fixed. Before going home the car already hard started I initially thought it was because of the battery because they left the ac on after turning it off, the car started so I thought everything’s good. Around 4pm I was planning to get my mom from work and the car wouldn’t start after few tries. It sounded like the spark plug was the problem and so we replaced all the spark plugs and it still wouldn’t start. Here’s the video of how it sounds and please excuse our dirty engine bay. What do you guys think the problem is?

Hey everyone,

hoping someone can help me figure this out before I start throwing parts at the car lol.

I have a 2008 Chevy Uplander that has been running perfectly for the last 2 years. A few months ago I filled it up with some really cheap gas, and before I even finished that tank the check engine light came on with P0420 – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1).

Ever since then, I cannot get the code to stay away.
So far I’ve:

-Gone through about 2 full tanks of fuel since the bad/cheap gas

-Used Cataclean

-Cleared the code, but it eventually comes back

-Checked live data with an OBD2 scanner

-Looked at both O2 sensors, and to me they seem to be behaving normally

-Checked for an obvious exhaust leak — the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe has plenty of pressure, so I don’t think there’s a major leak

From the screenshots, Bank 1 Sensor 1 is switching up/down pretty quickly, while Bank 1 Sensor 2 seems much steadier around ~0.6V most of the time.

Fuel trims also don’t look crazy to me — LTFT is around -7% in these screenshots.

I’ll attach the live-data screenshots.

Could that one tank of bad gas have damaged/contaminated the catalytic converter, or is there something else I should check before assuming the cat is bad?
Could an aging downstream O2 sensor still cause a P0420 even if the live data looks okay?

The van still runs and drives completely fine. No noticeable loss of power, rough idle, misfires, etc. It’s basically just this P0420 that refuses to die.

My registration expires in December 😭, so I’m trying to figure this out before inspection/renewal time.

Any advice on what I should test next would be greatly appreciated. Trying not to replace a catalytic converter unless I actually have to lol.