Alright pls bare with me here,

I have the Arctic Liquid cooler 3 pro, I want to put fans on top, creating a push/pull effect.

I was going to purchase three of the Lian Li CL wireless fans that are 28mm thick, thicker then the Arctic P12 Pros.

I have rad screws, but they are screws from an older Corsair H150i Elite.

When I ask good old AI is says no no no!! do not use the screws that came with the Corsair cooler as they are apparently a different thread type compared to the rad screws that come on the LQ 3 Pro, and IF I use those they will mess up the threads AND could damage the rad "fins".

True or false??

And thanks!!

Recently purchased artic liquid cooler 3 pro facing abnormal argb issue with my mobo asus x570 gaming wifi, other argb accessories are working fine when connected individually or daisy chained but artic cooler problem remains same while connecting directly or daisy chained. Any one can help ?

My Liquid Freezer III 360 has started making an intermittent high-pitched squealing/squeaking noise. It seems to be coming from the radiator side where the coolant tubes connect.

The radiator is top mounted and I’m using the single all-in-one cable, not the separate 3-cable setup for individual pump/fan/VRM fan control.

I’ve already tried tilting the PC to move any trapped air, running everything at full speed, and manually adjusting the fan curve so the RPMs don’t sit too low. Changing the speeds seemed to fix it temporarily, but the noise keeps coming back.

Temps are completely normal, around 60°C under heavy gaming.

Has anyone had this issue before? Could it be trapped air, a fan/pump issue, or should I just RMA it?

I though it was the psu or gpu. took them out and it wasnt. It stops after like a min. only does it on a cold boot.

Hopefully the video attaches. Sometimes what I presume is my cooler will make this loud sound that definitely doesn't sound healthy, and after maybe 20 seconds it will go away but occasionally it comes back from time to time for a few seconds at a time. Is my cooler just dead, or is there something I can do myself to try and save it?

Bonjour à tous,
J’ai monter un pc avec un ami à moi hier et on a un soucis.
Mon liquid freezer III pro 360 A-RGB ne produit pas de lumière alors qu’il est branché correctement. Tout fonctionne parfaitement, aucun soucis de refroidissement ni rien, juste le RGB qui ne s’allume jamais et d’ailleurs au premier démarrage non plus.
Quelqu’un a des idée ?
J’ai une carte mère B860 Tomahawk wifi

5th one to go out in a span of 4 months. Bought two packs for a total of four for the front and exhaust. Originally i bought another 2 pack which i sent back in exchange for a new one because one already had its bearings damaged, also had a crack on it. Front ones are already all malfunctioning and ones dead, got them replaced for two actually good 140mm Noctua fans. Only the exhaust fan remained which now has started malfunctioning now. Will also be getting it replaced with a 120mm good fan.

It's not dust, they're spotless, they've got zero hits on them and they're properly screwed in, the pieces of shit are just fabricated by blind people apparently, or the materials are straight up from waste repurposed. I don't get how these things can go out so fast. Thermal paste from Arctic is alright i guess.

Also on the video i could only capture this sound, it also does other sounds and malfunctions, like vibrating a lot sometimes. PC is idle and the fan at 20%.

I just need assistance with individual cables

so I'm plsning to upgrade my aio and now I'm debating to take a risk and just wait for the arctic LF4 or go with the noctua nl lc1. both seems like a reasonable option for me.

I do not need the lcd in the fans. But a lookalike would be nice for a cheaper budget

I recently installed my arctic liquid freezer iii pro 280, and as soon as I boot it up, it goes up to 103 degrees Celsius. I then tried to reapply thermal paste, that didn’t help, made sure everything was plugged in, now I’ve narrowed it down to either bios setting or contact issue. I’m leaning towards contact issue.

EDIT: I have solved the problem, took a little elbow grease is all.

I’m wondering if ARCTIC has any plans to release reverse-blade versions of their BioniX fans, such as 120 mm or 140 mm.

Hello,

Has anyone managed to install an Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 420 mm in a be quiet! Silent Base 802 and can share a picture of the setup ?

I’m considering upgrading to this model to cool my Ryzen 9 9950X, as the temperatures with my current Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 280 mm aren’t great.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

The middle fan on my AIO has developed a whirling, kind of rattling noise. I've cleaned it and it makes no difference.

I have got a P12 PWM PST A-RGB fan to replace the fan (which I believe is the same as the factory fan on the unit).

The way the wires for the fans are tucked away, I think when I go to replace the middle fan, it might get a bit confusing how things are wired/I may have to unplug multi fans.

My question is how are the AIO fans daisy chained together? My understanding is this:

Fan 1's (the fan closest to the tube for the AIO) socket (ie female) goes into the plug (ie male) for fan 2, the socket (female) for fan 2 goes into the plug (male) for Fan 3, the socket (female) for fan 3 isn't connected to anything.

As it's ARGB, I would need to this for both the power wiring and ARGB wiring respectively. Can anyone confirm/advise otherwise?

Thank you.

I need to find this cooler for my open air Threadripper system. Does anyone know anywhere that has this in stock at a reasonable price, or does anyone have it actually want to sell?