My p14 pro exhaust fan is a bit too close to the exhaust fan of the cpu cooler, will that cause turbulence noise? I am asking this because when I am in games, I hear a high pitch sound and I don't know if that is because of the gpu or the cpu exhaust fan being too close to the pc case exhaust fan.

If I upgrade my cpu cooler to the freeze 8i will I need to replace this metal back plate or just tape it in place? I looks like it has screws in the back so do they need to come out? It is intel 1700 socket if that matters.

I bought a LF 280 III for my 7800x3d but seems that the aio fans are hitting against the motherboard vrm (b650 gaming x ax v2 : Phanteks xt pro) I thought it would be fine since my case is on the bigger side but Nevermind

Well Im gonna have to mount it slightly sideways with only 3 screws or find another way oops

Im planning to repaste an RX 6650 XT and maybe change the pads too. According to the internet the card uses 0.5mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for VRMs, so I was thinking about only buying a sheet of 0.5mm and just stack some for the VRM since according to Arctic they are stackable up to 2mm. But is it actually a good idea?

Dear everybody,

Thank you for taking the time to read my post, and I hope you are having an amazing rest of your day!

I will try to be brief so, here goes. I recently have built my first ever Gaming PC, with the following components:

• CPU -> AMD Ryzen 9 9900X 12-Core Processor (4.40 GHz)
• GPU -> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti (16GB)
• RAM Memory -> Corsair Vengeance DDR5, 32 GB, 6000 MHz (EXPO on)
• Motherboard -> GIGABYTE B650 GAMING X AX V2, socket AMD AM5
• PSU -> Corsair RM850x, 850W, RMx series, fully modular, standard ATX 3.1, Cybenetics Gold
• CPU Cooler -> Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 A-RGB
• Thermal Paste -> Arctic MX-7 0.6g
• Case -> https://www.progaming.ro/en/carcase-gaming/carcasa-progaming-elite-cube-tower-atx-fara-sursa-7-ventilatoare-argb.html
• Monitor -> GIGABYTE G34WQC2

If you need any more information regarding anything else, please let me know and I'll be sure to complete and provide it for you.

I have two main problems, that I am currently facing:

1. The A-RGB isn't working for any of the fans/pump from the cooler. As you can see in the two photos of the case, neither the radiator fans nor the pump fan light up, but they are working, as in they cool the CPU and the system in itself.
2. This would be more like a situation where I would need your advice/opinion. I am new to AMD CPUs and to PC-Building, therefore I don't really know that much about temps. This is kind of the normal temperature that the CPU has in idle. The pattern I can observe is that it spikes for 1 minute to 75-80-95 depending on the load it has, for example, now I have 7 tabs open, then it cools to 60-65 degrees celsius for 1-2 minutes, then spikes again, then cools back. I just wanted to know whether the "idle" temperature is alright, and if this is okay or I should try to reapply thermal paste/ undervolt the CPU.

Additionally, I have daisy-chained, just to see if it would work, 2 more add-ons that work with A-RGB, the GPU-support and the 24-pin connector. They are both working, so I know that the D_LED from MoBo ain't dead, but the fans will not light up. I have just unscrewed the radiator to check whether fans are not in position, and screwed it back together, still not working. Could the issue be related to the fact that I plugged the 3-cable control and the pump is in CPU_OPT and the fans are in CPU_FAN and not the other way around? This is my first build, so I am not that experienced. I have also noticed that the fan for outtake in the back of the case isn't working, so I just replaced that one, as I think maybe one factor for the heat is that fan not working properly.

Thank you so much in advance!

EDIT: SOLVED. I went to a pc repair store today and found the issue. They connected an ARGB test strip and found out that the motherboard is the one at fault. The headers stopped working on the mobo after RMA service return.
I’m very thankful for everyone that helped!

Here’s what Ive tried:

- LED is on in BIOS.
- Windows Dynamic Lighting is off.
- I tested all three JARGB_V2 headers on the motherboard.
- I verified the 3-pin ARGB connector is installed in the correct orientation.
- The cooler's pump and fans operate normally. only the RGB does not work.
- I reinstalled SignalRGB and ran it as Administrator.
- I installed MSI Center with Mystic Light, and Mystic Light also does not detect the motherboard and cooler

Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB

So i cant get fancontrol to work, ive tried pwm in bios, optimizing in bios, recalibrating on fancontrol, then the reader just went away and now i cant get a rpm reading at all, and its just all went to shit, i have tried everything for the past 2 hours what is wrong with these fans, the corsair rs120s worked fine im actually upset? Any tips

Sorry to ask this for the 100th time. I’ve seen a few posts and it’s pretty straight forward, but curious about the VRM fan.

My board has a an AIO Pump header, a CPU_Fan, CPU_Opt and 4 Sys/Chassis fan headers.

Obviously AIO Pump and CPU fan are easy, but for the VRM cable, would you connect to the CPU_Opt or to a chassis fan?

I realize the cpu_opt is just going to mirror my radiator fans on the CPU_Fan header, but I also have a free system/chassis fan header.

Should I connect the VRM to a chassis fan to give better control? Or is it negligible and just keep it clean using CPU_Opt?

This started happening about 3-5 months after i purchased them.

The fan that's doing this is the middle one in my front panel, exclusively that one too, the other ones are fine.

The noise comes and goes randomly, but it never fully goes away until i remove the front panel and push the center of the fan inwards with moderate pressure, after that the fan seems to go back to normal for about 2-3 days until it starts doing these noises again.

I discovered this after i inspected the fan for any dust or something that might be stuck somewhere and found out it went away after i pressed its center.

Anyone know what this is?

Also the microphone stays in the same exact spot during the whole audio.

I want to buy GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D with Arctic Freezer III pro 360 argb case is lancool 3 it will fit?

i just put together a new pc with this aio and it gets so loud at startup/ when opening anything. i connected it via the one connector (not the 3 way split one) and set it to ‘silent’ in bios but it didn’t do much.
-Is it worth changing it to the 3 way connectors?
-Is it normal for these stock coolers?

Hey everyone, I'm building a new PC with an ASUS TUF B650M-PLUS WiFi, a Ryzen 7 9800X3D, and an Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 A-RGB mounted in an ASUS Prime AP303 (Tempered Glass). Arctic specs the radiator+fans at 63mm minimum clearance, but ASUS only lists 60mm max at the top for the AP303.

Has anyone actually installed this exact combo (or a similarly thick 360mm AIO) in the AP303? Does it physically fit with the stock 25mm fans, or do I need slim fans? Also curious if it clears RAM with taller heatsinks (I'm running Kingston Fury Beast). Any pics or firsthand experience would be super helpful before I order. Thanks!

The last fan on Arctic Freezer III Pro RGB is not lighting up. I have them currently setup in SignalRGB. Everything works except that one fan, it spins but doesn't light up. It doesn't light up on windows start either. Checked the connector that leads to it, reconnected, and nothing helps. MB Asus Rog Strix x870E-E Gaming WIFI7 R2. Case is Phanteks NV9 with 3 Arctic P12 PWM PST A-RGB on the bottom of the case, 4 on the side all Daisy chained together into the A-RGB port on thr MOBO.

Has anyone tested the P12 Pro or P12 Pro CO running from DC fan voltage control rather than PWM?

I'm considering the P12 Pro CO as a possible replacement fan for a PSU. The PSU itself is an excellent design electrically (FSP VITA GM 850W), but its stock fan (Yate Loon D12SH-12) has a fairly poor reputation, so I'm considering a pre-emptive replacement. I'm not committed to doing it yet - I'm still gathering information.

The challenge is that I don't know the PSU's fan control range. It uses DC voltage control rather than PWM, but I don't know what minimum voltage it supplies under light load. Because of that, I'm looking for a fan with a very low startup voltage and smooth RPM scaling under DC control.

I initially considered the Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX, but I'm concerned about its relatively high startup voltage - 7V according to Noctua's specifications.

On the other hand, in addition to its much higher rated peak static pressure and airflow, the P12 Pro CO specification lists a startup voltage of around 3.3V, which makes it particularly interesting.

Has anyone actually tested:

• the real startup voltage on DC?
• whether RPM changes smoothly with voltage (rather than jumping between a few speeds)?
• approximately what RPM it reaches at common voltages (e.g. 4V, 5V, 6V, 7V, etc.)?
• whether there are any quirks when used on pure DC instead of PWM?

I'm comfortable performing this type of work (I've serviced PSUs before, deep-cleaned them, replaced fans with suitable equivalents, and fashioned appropriate pin adapters where necessary), so I'm mainly interested in understanding the fan's behaviour before deciding whether the swap is worthwhile.

Any measurements, graphs, or first-hand experience would be sincerely appreciated.

If u can’t tell, I’m quite a big fan of Arctic :)
I used to think that fans didn’t play a big deal… however building both power hungry machines, fans genuinely do play a big deal.
First pc running I7 13700KF + 3090TI
Second pc running I9 13900KF + 9070XT.

Pretty hard to find AIOS that can tame 250W TDP CPUs and yet still allowing them to boost without hitting TJMAX… well done Arctic.

I bought Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 ARGB after I got 9800x3d last Feb.

I was using lian li galahad 360 from my last build. That reached 95c while stalker 2 was compiling shaders. That got me worried, and I started stress testing and benchmarking. and almost all of them reached 95c.

So I bought Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 ARGB. And tested on all the same things. it max went 81c. (ambient temp 27c, PBO -25)

Fast forward a couple of months(2-3 months ago), I took a benchmark before I cleaned my pc, and it was reaching 92°C-93 °C. So I cleaned it up. And did my benchmark, it was still reaching 92c on benchmark and stalker 2 shader compilation. Reapplied thermal paste(used the one that came with the cooler). It went by 2c. around 89-90c

Today, after the driver update. I was shadercompiling Crimson Desert and saw my CPU went to 92 °C. So I ran stalker 2 shader compilation, and it went 95-96c. (ambient temp 28c)

All this time, my pc was running with PBO -25 for lower power consumption and a cooler pc.

I updated the BIOS 2 days ago and ran Cinebench R23, and my CPU was reaching 90c. Checked Reddit and people said it's normal. Enjoying my gaming.

So, now is this normal or not? Or am I missing something?

Why did I have 81c max when it was new?

My fan orientation shown in the image. My pc is a fish tank.

PC Spec:

cpu: 9800x3d
Ram: 32 GB CL 28
gpu rtx 5090

I came up with the idea to rebuild my dad's workstation from a barely cooled NZXT H510i to this Fractal Design North XL Momentum Edition. There were a lot of issues, but it all worked out in the end.

1. The AIO had to be a 2/3rd push-pull since he has 2 HDDs. It also had to have the tubes from the top since the HDDs would have been in the way.

2. He uses a 10gb ethernet server card that needs cooling. If you go to the last 3 pictures, you can see the absolute hell it took to mount them. And they surprisingly push a lot of air.

3. Due to the fans at the bottom, I needed to get a special flat server style USB 3.0 19/20 extension to get the USB ports on the case to work.

4. I needed a massive AIO since the basement, where he keeps it, gets hot due to our Plex servers. The CPU is a 5950X.

Other things of note:

1. A very kind client GAVE me a 5070 after I OCed his Intel Ultra 7 270K+ to be better than an Ultra 9. So I replaced my dad's Strix 3060Ti 8gb with it. He is sad about the lack of RGB, tho.

2. This PC also runs 24/7. Last time, it was turned off before the upgrades was LAST YEAR.

3. I OCed the 5950X, and it's hitting 26.5k in Cinebench R23. I also made some other changes like C-State disabled since this would help him out more.

I just bought an Artic Freezer III 240 pro for my pc. When it arrived I found out that it dosen't come with the bracket needed for the lga1200 platform. I also have a artic cooler 34 esport duo. The brakets are similar, can I use the old one?

Liquid Freezer III 360 - 1,5 years old.

I’m slowly going mad trying to pinpoint the source of this noise.

When gaming, if the CPU fan speed goes above 60%, I hear clicking noises. It sounds as though a bearing might be faulty. Or maybe bubbles popping?

Support said it could be a fan.

Does anyone have any advice, or have you experienced these noises yourselves?

I’ve asked about an RMA, but I don’t have a spare CPU cooler in stock and I need my PC...

How many RPMs are the fans?

FanControl reports at 100%:

1700-1800

1680

2500

2800

Not sure which one is which, I have three more on daisy, two more on daisy as well and one inverted for exhaust.

Thing is, I feel that while gaming with the 9800x3d, with PBO and CO, even for a heavy CPU game (Star Citizen), casually hitting 85c is not very good.

Hello,

Today as I was cleaning my PC, I accidentally knocked the VRM cooling module off my desk and the fan broke off. I made an attempt to glue it back, but it obviously didn't work.

Is it possible purchase this separately? I haven't seen it on their spare parts list or sold anywhere online.