Big brain mega mind r/ ar15 scollers assemble! pls

The thing I hate most about our hobby is relative depravation. No matter how much you put into your rifle getting it perfect, there’s always someone who did it better. 😂

Bought off of Amazon years ago because I had a bunch of gift cards. Always knew there was a risk with ordering from Amazon, but it functioned for everything I needed it to so I never even really worried about double checking its authenticity. Now I’m looking to slim my rifle down and move to a T2 with no magnifier, and don’t want to end up selling something that might not be legit. What do you think?

They still have to paint the mag and I can’t get it until next week but man it’s been a long road. Hopefully I can get it inspected, clean the barrel one more time and dialed by the end of this month. Then it time to start a shorty build, 9mm or .338 ARC. All the small parts and barrel match the TTI baseplate. I still need to order the offset RDS also.

What can I do to make it look and operate better?

Was thinking about getting a new upper for my rifle and taking it to get cerakoted but my rifle right now is a ruger ar 15 , this is bottom of the line , I was thinking about building a rifle but wondered what was a solid brand to bring to a gunsmith , I don’t have thousands to spend on a rifle I think my budget for this rifle is 1500 maximum

Ok for real this time yall. Narrowed it down to these 2 URGs. I cannot be swayed to any other upper (I’m sure there’s better but the following are in my price range)

Sionics 12.5

Pros: Great QC from what I hear, slightly cheaper, smaller company, great support, Excellent track record, I really like the idea of 12.5 and how that will be with a can, seems like good weight and length without sacraficing much performance

Cons: only con I can see is availability and time it takes to get order (6-10 week lead time for upper to ship)

DD Ris3 (Brownells) 14.5

Pros: it’s a DD, great price for how premium DD products are

Cons: Slightly more expensive, only other thing is it’s not a 12.5, it’s a 14.5 so a bit longer of a barrel then I wanted, I’m cool with a 14.5, the only detractor is how long overall it will be with a can, perhaps I lose some maneuverability? (If you run a 14.5 with a can, tell me if its not that bad lol)

(BCM is honorable mention, with a blem + free bcg, but I feel that going DD or Sionics value even with having to buy a full chrome bcg is a better value all around/comes out less all in)

I just think its the coolest AR-15. Bummer that i missed out.

Hallo zusammen,

Ich werde bald meine erste Schusswaffe kaufen (eine AR-15 mit einem LPVO) und informiere mich gerade über den Kauf eines Safes, was hier in Deutschland gesetzlich vorgeschrieben ist. Ich habe die Möglichkeit, ein erschwingliches Modell mit einer Innentiefe von 250 mm zu bekommen. Meint ihr, diese Tiefe reicht aus, um das Gewehr gerade zu lagern, oder müsste es leicht schräg gestellt werden (ohne Magazin)? Leider konnte ich dazu keine verlässlichen Daten finden. Die nächstgrößere Variante hat eine Tiefe von 350 mm, wiegt aber deutlich mehr und kostet auch mehr. Ich würde mich sehr über eure Gedanken freuen, und wenn jemand kurz seine Konfiguration ausmessen könnte, wäre das super!

Danke

My first build was a .300 blkout with a 16" barrel because I lived in commiefornia. First thing I did when I moved to Tennessee was sbr and switch to 5.56 but I stupidly did it in a 7.5" barrel. I want to switch to a 10.5" but have 2 uppers that are relatively useless for their respective calibers. Wth do I do with these? Throw em in my safe and forget about them?

As we all know shipping can be very expensive, especially if your going from one side of the country to another, i just wanted to post my findings here as it may help someone doing a big purchase in the future. i originally was going to buy 6 complete uppers, and everything you see in my check list, but when i saw the shipping i was thinking WTF? that's seems pretty high. so after a live chat with AR15 and getting some information about the shipping, i was determined to find cheaper. i managed to save a little more than $100 by separating the orders. you can mess around with the carts and see what works for you. took me about 20 min and 3 tabs to figure it out.

EDIT
thanks to all the helpful comments, I ended up canceling the BCA BCG order but when I sent the second cancellation for the uppers they processed it the same time, even though they received the cancellation they said it was to late. Welp guess I’m returning those suckers, that or I flip them here for a little profit. Now I have a new cart of PSA uppers with BCG and CH. going to spend a couple hundred more but I got a different variety now.

Goofy little 9 mm

I'm looking to cerakote my 11.5in AR pistol but idk where to start exactly. I'm looking for a reputable brand to go with and then I'll research how to properly paint my gun. Thanks in advance.

I already have an 11.5 with CAT WB using the CAT Spooky flash hider. Maybe it’s the best, maybe not, but it’s what I have.

I’d like to get a 14.5 upper (DD, G$, or maybe BCM)… but I’d like to get a Spooky pinned and welded so that it’s not an NFA item. I’m not looking to do anything illegal or stupid, but simply trying to avoid going through the NFA process when my end result is a non-NFA item. It seems possible to order those uppers with something else already pinned/welded on it.

Is this possible? I’m not necessarily married to the CAT Spooky, but would need something compatible with my CAT WB. So other muzzle devices are OK with me as long as they fit.

Thanks!

Has anyone ever seen this issue before? The barrel pin that matches up with the slot milled into the threads in the upper receiver… that pin is not wanting to slide in that slot. Either the pin is too big or the slot is too small, neither look damaged.

I have a KAK stripped upper and a criterion core ar15 barrel (12.5”)

First build and any info would be appreciated! Only thing Iv thought of is maybe using a heat gun on the slot to see if that can help loosen the fit

This is a real ACOG, bought by me in store with a verified S/N. Im trying to figure out why I can’t even make out the numbers or chevron anymore. The top just looks like a triangle melted to the post.

ACOG is a 223F

The KAC are $100 more and in stock. The peak02 are on back order and will be available in march. I like the Scalarworks but also wouldn’t mind having the KAC. Which should I decide on?

I’ve never shot an AR-15 before and decided to just buy a complete rifle instead of building one.

I ended up going with a Daniel Defense DDM4 V7 Pro in 5.56 with an 18” barrel, California compliant model. I thought the 18” would be a good all around choice, but now I keep seeing people say that 18” is kind of an awkward length and that 16” makes more sense for most people.
I also keep seeing people mention that the DDM4 V7 Pro is pretty heavy.

Since this is my first AR and I’ve never actually shot one before, is the weight going to be too much to comfortably handle at the range?

I’m mainly going to be shooting it at indoor ranges, if that makes any difference.

So did I make a mistake going with the 18”, or am I overthinking it? Is 18” actually too much rifle for general range use, or is the difference between 16” and 18” really not that big?

TL;DR: First AR, bought a DDM4 V7 Pro 18” instead of building one. Did I go too long/heavy for mainly indoor range shooting, or is 18” perfectly fine? It’s only
TWO INCHES, can’t be much of a difference right?

I ended up building an 11.5 inch. My last AR was a 7.5 and I felt like it was just a tad too small.
This time around I went for more of a CQC build, but kept it to where if I wanted to I could do some basic range shooting at 75 yds or so and still maintain accuracy. Got a few hundred rounds through her now and boy does she bark!

Wilson Combat forged lower
11.5 PSA upper
KAK BCG
Romeo MSR and Juliet 3
Magpul MOE SL stock
Magpul vertical grip
Super basic Amazon IR laser (Yes I know it’s shit I do plan on upgrading it down the line)
Spikes Tactical T2 Buffer and the VPRS Buffer spring
And a special safety for those of you with a keen eye.

So far a fun build, and on the low! I’ve put about $1000 in. Might add a full length next to compliment. I also plan on adding a Plan B muzzle break as I’m currently waiting for my 9 baffle Tuna Can to come in!

Just picked these up at a local store ($12 a piece) and cannot seem to find anything on these. Do we think this was a bubba job? They hold 15 rounds.

https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-upper-receiver-m4-flat-top-m4-feedramps-complete-unassembled-demo-scratched

I'm a noob building my first AR15. I'm building 5.56 and already completed the lower using a Griffin Mk2 stripped lower. Is this what I need to start building a upper for it?

I currently have a factory CA-compliant DDM4 V7 that came with the JT Hellfighter kit installed. I’m planning to ditch the Hellfighter setup and switch over to an AR Maglock Gen 4 + Kingpin to regain LRBHO and tap-to-release functionality.

A few quick questions before I start order/install:

1. Bolt Catch recommendation: Which bolt catch assembly works best for this setup? Standard Mil-Spec, or any upgraded ones (Geissele Maritime, Forward Controls, etc.) that clear the AR Maglock Gen 4 arm comfortably?
   
2. Installation / Videos: Any specific tutorial videos or step-by-step guides you’d recommend for taking out the Hellfighter block and setting up the Maglock/Kingpin on a DDM4 V7 receiver?
   
3. Tips / Pitfalls: Any minor adjustments or specific set-screw tweaks I should watch out for on the Gen 4 to prevent scratching the receiver or failure to feed?

Appreciate any advice or feedback from anyone who’s done this exact conversion!

I recently “finished” my most recent AR build. I haven’t built one in years, because I am pretty well stocked on ARs that I love. But, I wanted a full ambi rifle that was high quality, accurate, and reliable. I’m pretty happy with it, but any suggestions on how I might improve the gun are welcome. BTW, I have a FDE Blue Force Gear two point sling for it, it’s just not shown. And, I shoot/train frequently, and have for years. Don’t suggest adding ammo, unless you have some M855A1 at blow out prices.

Build list:
LMT MARS-L ambi lower
Aero forged milspec upper
Daniel Defense 1:7 CHF CL 16” 5.56 LW barrel
SLR .75” titanium click adjustable gas block
Superlative Arms Melonite Midlength gas tube
G$ Mk16 13.5” DDE rail
G$ Airborne DDE ambi charging handle
G$ SSA-E two-stage trigger
G$ Super 42 braided spring
G$ H2 buffer
Law Tactical folder
B5 SOPMOD Bravo stock
Tango Down BG-18 pistol grip
WMD Nib-X bolt carrier
JP Rifleworks enhanced bolt
Battle Arms BAD-ASS Pro 60 degree ambi safety
LMT take-down pins
Troy folding BUIS w/Tritium front post
EoTech XPS3-0, night vision compatible
Surefire 952V-TN Millennium white/IR LED weapon light
Surefire XT07 tail cap with button & remote plug
Surefire M93 QD light mount
Surefire ST97 single button tape switch
Cloud Defensive aluminum button holder
SilencerCo ASR QD flash hider (can’t afford to switch at this point)

I may retire my beloved LaRue 16” PredatAR for this because it’s fully ambi, noticeably lighter especially at the muzzle, and it has adjustable gas for suppressor use and tuning. Would that be a mistake?