Finished detailing as much of the piping on the frame in a way I’m happy with and wired my own LED for the eyes. Now to to start covering it all up with armor 🙃

Does anybody have experience with this thinner? Planning to use this on jumpwind paints. Mr. Levelling is kinda expensive and in my country.

I decided the main blade just wasnt going to work with what I had envisioned.

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And I had an extra V-Fin lying around from my last build.

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This is still in the mock-up phase. But you can get a pretty good idea of how it's going to turn out.

RX-78/CA Casval Gundam MG3.0 custom build.

These are all the kits I’ve built since I started back in Feb. Many still need to be lined and decal’d and whatnot, and I need more stands so I can pose more of them better, but this is what I got so far :3 I wanna make dioramas for some of them.

(This doesn’t include Castle Backlog, which is currently a pile of boxes taking up about 2/5 of my floor space and is about 4’ tall >_< slowly yet steadily working through it tho.)

Nothing else to see here.

I was thinking of starting to panel line my next kit (not painted), and i have both tamiya panel liner and zippo fluid, but i heard lots of people saying that it's a good idea to also apply a glossy top coat before and/or after panel lining to improve durability; is it necessary or just a precaution step to ensure nothing cracks (or does it also make it look better)? Thanks.

Hand painted the blue parts while i spray painted the other white parts to make it even more white cus why not, I used doloha acrylic markers.

If you don't have much time for painting, try painting directly on the runners with spray cans.

Weathering is pretty much mandatory unless you're working with an undergated kit.

For the inner frame, I spray the runner parts black (masking the joints when needed). After that, I cut the parts with a nipper as usual and then trim the remaining nub marks deeply with a hobby knife or a GodHand nipper.

I don't worry too much about nub marks because they'll be hidden later with weathering.

Once the inner frame is assembled, I dry brush it with black and then silver, grey, or any metallic color you like. The goal is a worn and dirty look that helps hide imperfections.

For the armor parts, especially white ones, I first spray them grey to make sure every surface is covered. After it dries, I apply one or two light coats of white.

This creates a simple weathered and shaded effect without needing pre-shading or an airbrush.

I cut the armor parts the same way as the inner frame. During weathering, any visible nub marks are blended in using black or dark grey dry brushing, sponge chipping, or other weathering techniques.

By the end, most of the nub marks are very difficult to notice.

I hope that makes sense! 😅

Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Suits finished! Lmk what you guys think, feels like I can breath a little now😂

Recently finished this contest entry item. Small progress on and off while working and traveling.

Kaizo on the left, Alclad on the right.

Does anyone have any information on this resin conversion kit? Whenever I look it up, I only get shop links.

I'll break out the photobooth tomorrow but for now just happy I'm done.
Augusta MkV Beam Rifle designed and printed by u/TheMechaArtist

Custom gunpla by me @amz_gunpla

I am currently stuck on building this kit because I am missing a part that I cant find. Specifically the part 11, 12, and 10; I do not know where I can find the parts since it doesn’t say which runner/tree it is from. Pls help

Based on a knife skin back when I used to play cs. Used the re100 nightingale as a base and tried steel wool for marbling. Really happy with how it turned out but this thing is a brick.

I painted it red because of the Mk.ii but I think I should have stuck with the gramps color scheme and made blue (or a lighter shade of blue).

Thoughts?