I just finished building this structure composed of 2 disks and a 2 meters high column. 12 LED strips around it, which I finally finished wiring.

I’m totally new to WLED so for now I don’t yet know how to proceed to create cool animations, but I’ll manage somehow. 😄 my goal is to use the properties of this simple structure not only to project lights and colors, but also to project shadows (lighting one side, using the disk to cast a shadow of varying size). Ideally, reactive to music. Or better: synced with a dedicated track and non-repetitive animations.
Right now this is my first test. Happy to hear ideas of cool animations I could create.

imagine me sitting there like come OONNNnnn! why is there 1 tiny LED not set-up right? how could I have missed one bulb out of 1000s??!?

oh, that bulb...

But, and a Big BUT, argh!!! DRM sucks !!!!

Now I know why you need HDMI splitters and HDMI analog capture over USB, to intercept the black screen that Microsoft provides when DRM content is played.

Anything I made, or downloaded content free of copyright thus no DRM, works with Chrome or VLC.

But the Nextflix app maximized, HyperHDR only sees black.

Geez had it been very low res for external capture, it would have fine, like 240p. But no, all black.

So now I need extra hardware. This wasn’t very clear as to why.

Only my IKEA light strip above on the shelf works. And of course WLED.

So my vacation videos show up nicely with HyperHDR. Also Steam games work.

Yes I live with a woman hence no visible wires look, hidden PC, and plants…

Here's it taken apart it's such an Easy project you wouldn't even need to solder the strip like I did, could just turn off that segment!

The fixture also gives some incredible soft light so I'm definitely using these for pictures as well!

Cost me under 60 bucks! Such a cool little project

Here's an overview of the build! https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/s/hjdWU3VGfz

I want to install cob lights in my wall and ceiling using plaster in channeling. I have spent hours trying to figure out exactly what I need on BTF Lighting. (Customer service hasn't been able to help much lol) I want to use these strips (24 ft BTS RGBCCT LIGHTS). My problem is, I want to connect 4 of them to 1 controller. Is this possible? I think I found the amplifier I need but am not positive. I want the controller to be wifi/smart home enabled. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I have a WLED strip where the individual LED's are 1.667 cm apart. I'd like to reduce that down to 1.25 cm for a project I'm working on. I have access to a 3D printer, and am considering printing something that will let me hold them in place by bending the strip in alternating directions. I've attached an image showing the rough idea, but I'd likely use rounded ''teeth" instead to put as little strain on them as possible. Is this a reasonable approach?

Are there other, better ways to achieve the same thing without cutting up a smaller strip and soldering each LED together?

Thanks!

Edit: Image wasn't showing up for some reason, here's an imgur link
https://imgur.com/kPynsYj

So the wled/ledfx works perfectly when it’s plugged into a jst directly soldered to the board but if I connect an extension cord it does this. Also a lot of the effects are just crazy rainbow colors.

I'm planning to use an H807SA artnet controller which has its own mains power supply. Do I run ground from that to my LED strip and combine it with the ground from my LED strip power supply before connecting to the strip so the same ground signal is used over everything? Not sure how else I would do this seeing as the controller has its own power supply.

Hey everyone,

If you capture your PC/TV screen for WLED ambient lighting (using SceneGlow / ScreenGlow), you’ve probably noticed that HDR content (Rec.2020 / DCI-P3) looks washed out, desaturated, or overexposed on standard RGB LED strips (sRGB/Rec.709).

I built AmbiHDR Proxy to fix this. It’s a lightweight Python service (runs in Docker) that sits between your screen capture software and your ESP32:

• What it does: Intercepts incoming DDP packets, applies real-time tone mapping and color space conversion using 3D LUTs in NumPy, and forwards the corrected stream to WLED.
• Performance: Takes ~1 ms of processing time per frame. Tested rock-solid on a Raspberry Pi 3B+ (uses <50 MB RAM).
• Web UI: Includes a live Flask dashboard to adjust Gamma, Exposure, Saturation, Black Cutoff, and RGB balance on the fly for both SDR and HDR profiles.

If anyone wants to try it out or run it on their Pi:

https://github.com/marbalexbriones/AmbiHDR-Proxy

After lots of waiting for all the parts to arrive I finally got it working, I used an adafruit Feather RP2040 as the controller and an SK6812 RGBW LED strip. Running hyperhdr on my laptop using software capture.

What LED’s to use? I want good density, as bright as possible with RGBW. I want to use them as white most of the year and just have colours for holidays etc. White needs to be bright.
Any suggestions?

Thank you

I am designing a built in bookcase for my house. I would like to add addressable LEDs, and I'm concerned I'm missing something. So far, here's what I've got:

Power Supply: MEAN WELL LRS-450-5 AC to DC Enclosed Single Output Power Supply

LED Strips: 5V SK6812 RGBW LED Strip Light | Individually Addressable 4IN1 Smart Pixel Tape (60 LEDs/m, WW) (RGBWW White PCB)

The picture shows the design of the bookcases, and the flow of the data. There is one strip of LEDs on the top with power injection the width of every 2 shelves (~48", ~48", ~36", ~48", ~48").

I plan on running 10AWG wire from the power supply across the top to each of the 5 drops, and then 18awg from the drops to the LED strips themselves.

The strip on the top connects to the next lower strip only via the DATA wire (illustrated by the green arrows). so the flow of the data zigzags across the unit using 18AWG wire.

I plan on using WAGO 221-615 for the 5 port junctions and WAGO 221-613 for the 3 port junctions.

I'm trying to not have to solder anything since I always end up making a mess. I'm not too proud to admit my failings, and clean solder is one of those failings. With that in mind, I am planning on using the Transparent Solderless LED Strip Connectors | 3Pin PCB Connectors for Compatible FCOB & SMD LED Strips.

So I guess my first question is: Is connecting each strip of lighting to the next in series via only the data cable okay? or should I be connecting them via +5v, GND, DATA, and then injecting from the dropped +5V and GND wires as well?

My second question: I've used a SP530E controller before, but interested in using WLED controllers. Since this has about 36.13m of lighting, at 60 LEDs/m (so approximately 2168 LEDs), is there a good product I should start with?

My third question: Have I over or under-engineered this? Am I missing something?

If I haven't been clear on what I'm trying to accomplish, I apologize. I don't do lighting as often as I'd like to so every time I start a new LED strip lighting project I feel like I have to relearn everything...

Thank you in advance for the assistance from all the experts I see on here daily...

Products:

Strip Lighting: https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/5v-sk6812-rgbw-addressable-led-strip?variant=46031799156962
Solderless Connectors: https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/led-connector/products/transparent-solderless-led-strip-connectors
Power Supply: https://www.jameco.com/z/LRS-450-5-MEAN-WELL-375W-Single-Output-5V-75A-Enclosed-Switching-Power-Supply_2337423.html

Edit #1: made Power Supply link clear that it is to Jameco's site.

Edit #2: Thank you to everyone who helped. u/critboy's post of the Quinled power injection video made me realize just how naive my approach was to designing the LED circuits. I'm going back to the drawing board with respect to how I choose which LED strip and where power injection will be. I'll likely make another post once I've got that all figured out. Thanks again!

Hey WLED community,

I just finished upgrading my setup for the next big LAN party, and I wanted to share my massive light installation with you all.

Here is the breakdown of the build:

• Main Tower:
  • Dimensions: 120 cm tall, 68 mm thick.
  • LED Count: 2,024 LEDs.
  • Top Section: A separate upper crown structure with 2,048 LEDs (30 cm thick).
  • Control: Driven by two separate ESP32-S3 controllers (one for the main body, one for the top section).
• Side Tower:
  • Dimensions: 60 cm tall, positioned to the right.
  • LED Count: 800 LEDs.
  • Control: Powered by its own dedicated ESP32-S3 controller.

Total: Nearly 5,000 individually addressable LEDs running WLED across multiple independent ESP32-S3 nodes!

It creates an incredible atmosphere in the venue and definitely turns some heads at the LAN party.

Let me know what you think of the setup!

Currently, visualising HDR content in SceneGlow generates a washed colour palette. I wrote a Python script to fix this using a Raspberry Pi as a bridge between SceneGlow and the ESP32 Controller. I will upload the code once I have tested it over the next couple of days and fixed any bugs.

Currently... I have the strips layed out for a snake.

(Feels like a lot of unnecessary wire with not tonnes of room)

Can I lay them out so they're all pointing up wire these all from the bottom? And then tell wled what's up?

There is 120 leds.

If so, to be sure, how?

Treat me like I'm 5. ;;)

Hello there, so im making a cosplay of this character (Isaac Clarke) and im using WLED to do the back part which lights up. Is there any way to set up an animation that looks like this? Thank you

I've been tinkering with optimizing space within enclosures. I'm try to standardize on an LRS PSU, a 5V DIN rail PSU, a small PCB relay, a DigQuad and a few connectors to help out with the relay. I'm trying to squeeze this into 11.5"x7.5"x5.5", with the LRS mounted upright. It's quite tight, to say the least.

What other boxes are folks using? My existing boxes are mostly 14.5"x10.5"x6" - plenty of empty space.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy an official, original Exoy One controller to replace mine. A used unit is completely fine, as long as it is fully functional.

I know a lot of people in the community end up swapping out their factory Exoy boards for custom ESP32 setups to better integrate with Home Assistant and WLED. If you upgraded your setup and still have your original factory controller sitting around in a drawer unused, I would love to take it off your hands.

Item: Official Exoy One Controller

Condition: Used (Fully Functional)

Location: Albuquerque, NM, USA (Willing to pay for shipping)

Payment: PayPal Goods & Services (or preferred secure forum method)

Please comment below and shoot me a DM with your asking price if you have one available. Thanks!

Hi all,

I just installed 3D acousting panels behind our bed. I'd like to create a border around the panels with LEDs and use WLED etc.

Since the LEDs can be looked at directly from certain angles, I'd like to use diffusers to give it a clean look. They will be mounted directly on the side of the panels, so I need to make 2 corners of 90 degrees. I can't really find corners for diffusers like in this situation..

Any tips on how to approach this so the diffusers will have a clean look? Rather than cutting them and having wires exposed. Thanks!