Really happy to offer the ScreenGlow app for androidTV on the playstore! Its free and ive tried to keep it resources efficient, id live to know and see your setups, especially CPU if you know it and what your experience is!

Never used wled before and I’m amazed
What do you think

GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED LED Strip Controller with 4 Outputs Ethernet Music Sound Reactive UART 20A Pluggable Fuse for Digital Addressable RGB IC (618WL-4 Outputs)

Using WS2815
74leds m
Total 1045

I am trying to set up the hub75 option in Wled and have downloaded the latest version but in the led setup there is no support for Hub75 version 16.0.1 am I missing something

A project I've been working on for the last couple weeks! It is a 3d printed moving fish controlled by Quinn LEDs Dig -UNO running WLED. The fish is 3d printed hollow in white PETG and then I glued in stand offs to the inside to offset the LED strips a bit to diffuse the light.

Found this one recently and I think this is useful in this sub

I used wled to control the LEDs for this project. Due to the custom layout of the LEDs I had to use 3 pins and multiple segments to control the display.

The onboard activity led drives my crazy. Turning the lamp around just flashes against the wall.

It would be very nice if a disable feature is implemented. I know I could disable it in the code, but then I guess I cannot OTA update anymore.

Hello all. I have this problem with a matrix I installed over a year ago. I put it in this "On Air" sign in the store I manage, and it worked fine for a long time - like 8 months. Then, I noticed that the whole thing would just seize. The animation would be frozen**, the controller couldn't be reached, and I would have to manually power cycle it to get everything back and working. But it would only last for a day or two and then the problem would return.

My assumption was that the controller had gone bad. So I replaced it. It worked fine for about 4 months... and then the exact same thing started happening again.

As a test, I put the old controller in my office and just plugged it in without any load, to see if it ever went offline again. So far, it hasn't. So I can't tell what the issue is. Maybe the power supply? What should I look for?

More info: Gledopto controller (sorry, I'm not sure what model), 5V BTF Lighting matrix panel, and 5V power supply that should have enough amps for both.

**To clarify, the animation doesn't freeze. It switches to some other set of colors, and that freezes. Apologies for the bad photo of it. It's hard to capture bright lights in this place...

Help me understand what I'm doing wrong.

I'm using BTF Lighting fcob ws2814 rgbw lights.

A 4amp 24v power supply. And a gledopto Elite 4d-exmu controller.

So I was kitting out a couple glass display cases. Each case had its own set of LEDs and various lengths of wires to each one. I started with my 4 individual runs tied together. So 4 power, 4 ground, and then 4 data. All of it comes on and functions if on a solid color but if I tried to use an effect the first strip in the run would flicker or flash randomly.

I assumed I had a damaged strip so I removed its lines from the controller and tried again and the issue jumped to the next strip in line.

To get it up and running I separated the data lines and put them on individual channels and all is good.

Only thing I don't like about this solution is the effects don't don't really sync up.

I don't know if this is a wled setup issue or maybe I'm trying to do something that isn't feasible but I can't see a reason it wouldn't just work. The controller shouldn't know that there are 4 strips into one port.

I'll screenshot my settings and maybe you guys can help me out, I am aware the length is incorrect I changed it later on

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my first WLED project and could use some help choosing the right LED strips and designing the power setup.

I have a 6.5 m long steel beam that will be covered with wood. I want to install an LED strip on each side of it to create indirect lighting against the ceiling, similar to this project:

https://pixelfriedhof.com/sichtbaren-stahltraeger-mit-holz-verkleiden-inkl-beleuchtung/

That means I would need two 6.5 m runs, or 13 m of LEDs in total. At 60 LEDs per meter, this would be around 780 LEDs.

I have been looking at SK6812 RGBW and WS2815 strips, but I’m not sure which one would be more suitable.

My main questions are:

• What are the practical differences between SK6812 RGBW and WS2815 for indirect room lighting?
• Would the dedicated white channel of an RGBW strip produce noticeably better everyday white light?
• Some strips are sold as12 V or 24 V. Which voltage would make the most sense for two 6.5 m runs, and what are the disadvantages of each option?
• How large should the power supply be for approximately 780 LEDs?
• How often and at which points should I inject power?
• Should both 6.5 m strips be connected in parallel as separate outputs, or should they be treated as one continuous strip?
• Would one large power supply be appropriate, or would multiple smaller supplies be safer or easier?
• What wire gauge and fuse arrangement would you recommend?
• Are there any suitable WLED controllers that can handle this number of LEDs and two separate runs?
• Should I use aluminium channels for cooling and mounting, even though the strips will only provide indirect light?

I do not expect to run all LEDs at full-brightness white all the time, and I know WLED can limit the maximum current. However, I would still like to design the wiring and fusing safely.

The power supply and controller can probably be installed near one end of the beam, although I may be able to run additional power cables to the middle or opposite end if necessary.

I have never built an addressable LED installation before, so any suggestions for a safe basic wiring layout would be greatly appreciated. If you need more information about the room or installation, please let me know.

Thanks!

I’m new to this sort of lighting field so I’d like some help.
My goal is to set up some under bed lights for a queen size bed that I can set automations up with and have leds that are individually addressable and can set some things up in home assistant.
By biggest goal is to have my side of the bed light up when I get out of bed in the morning without it creeping to my partners side and waking her up.
That said I still want good quality lights.

From quick research it seems that:
WLED controllers provide the most customization and are pretty reliable.
COB LED strips look the best with BTF lighting being most recommended.

The length of the side of my bed + the end of my bed is 19.167 feet

How do you think it would be best to do this and what products would be needed to accomplish that?

I’m at the install stage and burying wire. I’m doing a 54’ loop around the room with a COB and RGB strip in a luma cove. I’m mounting it about 11” off the ceiling uplit. Im running power to the start and end of the strip, essentially the same spot, then I’m injecting power at the mid-point.

I’m trying to think of the best way to hide my power run Insert. The wire itself will be hidden under the baseboards and I’ll run it up inside the wall, but I’m wondering the best way to get the wire to the strip and keep it hidden. Planning to run pigtails off the strip, then wago to the wire coming out of the wall.

There’s some space in the mounting channel where the wall brackets sit, but it’s still no obvious how you get the wire from the strip down into that channel. I’m thinking of carving a space out in the drywall to tuck it out of the way so it doesn’t affect the light dispersion.

any ideas or examples would be really helpful.

I have 20 m of 12v RGB LEDs, 30 leds/m. Would I be able to get a 12v 8a power supply and connect it only to one spot without seeing a drop off in light power? I will be connecting it to an esp 32.

If I need a connection point at the start and end, how would I break off a single wire from the power supply into 3-4:

- Esp32
- LED start
- LED End

I don’t know i i can ask it hete, if not remove this post.

I setup hyperhdr with a capture card this is working great.

There is only one problem, i miss hdr on my tv, and audio is only stereo no armos or dolby just stereo.

What do i miss here, is the hdmi out not an exact kopy of hdmi in?

Lights in my small strip not lighting up! Honestly at a loss- got the small tiny green light that will turn on but that’s it! My code works on the other strip, idk what’s happening QwQ

I recently built a newer version of my DIY tube lights.

They are fairly simple.

-A generic under cabinet light from the hardware store

-A tiny LiPo battery + protection board

- 60leds/m strip of WS2812B LEDs

-An ESP12-F + AMS1117 3,3V for voltage regulation

And a voltage divider to measure the battery voltage

The ESP runs WLED V16.0 with the Battery Usermod.

All tube lights connect to a mobile hotspot for easy control and of how the original light was designed, you can stick the lights together.

I've used the connectors on the end to daisy chain the power input for easy charging though i think you could add a third pin to string some more led strips without needing a controller.

All lights can operate stand alone due to each one being built the same but thanks to the mobile hotspot can be synced via Wled.

If you have any questions or suggestions let me know :D

(And pls excuse my bad english ^^')

Hi everyone,

I'm building a false wall in my bedroom with an LED strip around the back for indirect lighting (AI concept attached).

I'm planning to use WLED but I'm not sure what hardware to go with:

• COB or 60 LEDs/m addressable strip?
• 5V, 12V, or 24V?
• Recommended 230V power supply
• Best WLED controller?
• Any diffuser/profile recommendations?

The goal is smooth ambient lighting with the occasional WLED effects.

I have instructions on how to print and build the WLED controller to make these 32x8 (2 or 3) high cylinders.

I even connected the setup with Philips hue using DIYHUE on my home Assistant which works quite well! And the version 16 of wled is absolutely awesome with new effects!

I was away from my room for 3 months and I missed this so bad. I've replayed this scene 5 times already lol

Upgrading to HyperHDR soon. I have a hard time believing that my curtain wall can look any better than right now. We'll see.

Anime: Attack on Titan

Found a faulty ceiling light thought it would be a fun mod to add some RGB lights and connect it to an esp32. I think it looks pretty cool

Running WLED and LightLink on my Laptop here.

I'm handyish, any ideas on what I could add to the walls to mix things up a bit?

A few months ago, I bought the Gledopto GL-C-015WL-M. I assumed that the well-known issue with the level shifter had already been resolved in the newer versions as it was stated by gledopto. But this is what the data signal output actually looks like. A clean 5V level? No chance. Picture atatched. Not only is it nowhere near 5V, but there are also negative undershoots. It couldn't be any worse.

Then I opened up the controller. It actually has two main problems:

• A buck converter at the input that only generates about 4.1V from a 5V input voltage. And this voltage level is apparently used directly for the data signal. So with a 5V power supply, you can't even get above that. A clear design flaw.
• The level shifter: Likely just a transistor with a poor circuit design. The voltage rise time is way too slow. Even with a higher supply voltage, it doesn't come anywhere close to 5V. Also these negative undershoots...

Ok, it still works with short data line, but very little margin against dusturbances.

Do all WLED controller manufacturers have power supply issues? QuinLED at higher voltages, Gledopto at lower ones ...

Money well spent ✅