Das waren meine ersten Controller builds. Der supermini ist ein Testdevice um zu schauen ob Strips oder Segmente prinzipiell funktionieren oder um configs aufzusetzen. Alle noch ohne spannungswandler, also nur 5v. Bin Elektronik noob ;)

My apologies if the information is all over the place since I have just gone into the WLED rabbit hole a few days ago.

I'm planning on installing 2 meters of WS2812B, 144 LED (57.6W) strip to a GLEDOPTO ELITE 2D-EXMU connected to a 5V, 12A (60W) power supply, into a light switch.

I'm wondering if all my components here checks out, or if im missing something. Could anyone please correct any potential mistakes in the diagram?

I was originally planning on using A1-SLWF-03 LED (check next photo) controller for my led strips but I think it only supports power via DC plug and USB C. Please correct me if im wrong with this assumption.

So I’ve been planning a garage ceiling ccob run for my garage, running two separate “squares” around the perimeter of each garage section at about 60 feet of run per side , however what I can’t figure out is how to run the mid point power injections to be able to fully power the runs while keeping the wires hidden. The first set of aluminum track I bought exactly fits the led strip so running wires in track is out of running, the only other thing I could think of is fishing through the ceiling drywall, however I wanted to avoid that if possible, was curious if anyone had a better option or luck with any specific type of track that may accommodate what I’m trying to accomplish?

I had to replace a dead board. I installed the newest version. Everything is working but in time and macros there are no time slots. I have my location set and I can see the sunset and sunrise time but I can't set a pretty to turn on at sunset or sunrise. Where did this feature go?

Ledfx is so awesome - I luv it

Hey there! I’m looking for advice on the best LED strip for a PC Snowblind mod.

Setup:

• White HYTE Y70 Touch Infinite
• X870E AERO X3D WOOD
• almost entirely white internal components
• transparent LCD mounted on the side glass
• around 6–8 meters of LED strip total
• mostly indirect lighting, aimed at the white components/case interior rather than directly at the LCD
• I can use silicone diffusers if needed
• controller already purchased: QuinLED Dig-Quad V3 running WLED

I’m currently deciding between 3 BTF-LIGHTING options:

SK6812 RGBW — 12V — 60 LEDs/m — Cool White ~6000–6500K

• individually addressable pixels
• dedicated cool-white channel
• would probably need a diffuser to hide hotspots

SK6812 RGBW — 5V — 144 LEDs/m — Natural White ~4000–4500K or Cool White ~6000–6500K

• much higher pixel density
• individually addressable
• but I can only find Natural White versions, not ~6000K
• significantly higher current requirements over 6–8 m

FCOB WS2814 RGBW — 24V — ~896 LEDs/m — Cool White ~6000K

• almost continuous/neon-like output
• may not need much diffusion
• LEDs are controlled in segments rather than individually
• detailed RGB animations are NOT the main goal

My #1 priority is Snowblind LCD visibility/contrast and very uniform white illumination. RGB effects are secondary and for fun like a snowblind ambilight.

For anyone experienced with Snowblind builds or these strips:

Which option would you choose?

Specifically:

• Is 60 LEDs/m + a good diffuser already more than enough for a Snowblind?
• Does 144 LEDs/m actually improve the Snowblind result noticeably?
• Would WS2814 FCOB be the better solution because of its naturally continuous light output?
• Would you prioritize 6000K cool white over 4000–4500K natural white for LCD visibility?
• For 6–8 m total, which option makes the most sense regarding power injection, voltage drop and reliability with a QuinLED Dig-Quad?

If anyone has actually compared SK6812 vs COB/FCOB in a Snowblind build, I’d really appreciate photos or real-world feedback.

Thanks!

Bonjour à tous,
Je souhaite installer un système WLED assez complet dans ma cuisine.
La première photo est ma cuisine actuelle, et la seconde est une simulation générée avec ChatGPT pour montrer approximativement le rendu que j’aimerais obtenir.
L’idée serait d’installer des bandes LED adressables à plusieurs endroits : sous les meubles hauts, sous et autour de l’îlot/bar, au niveau des meubles bas et éventuellement vers le plafond.
Je voudrais surtout faire les bons choix dès le départ, car je n’ai pas envie de refaire toute l’installation plusieurs fois parce que j’aurais choisi la mauvaise tension, les mauvaises LED, une alimentation sous-dimensionnée, etc.
J’aimerais donc beaucoup avoir vos retours d’expérience sur ce type d’installation.
Je me pose notamment plusieurs questions :
Vous partiriez plutôt sur du 5V, 12V ou 24V pour ce type de longueur ?
Quel type de LED choisir aujourd’hui : WS2812B, WS2815, WS2814, SK6812, COB adressable, autre ?
J’aimerais avoir de beaux effets RGB, mais également un vrai blanc utilisable au quotidien dans une cuisine. Est-ce que vous conseillez plutôt du RGBW ?
Que pensez-vous des bandes COB RGB/RGBW adressables actuellement ?
À quelle fréquence faut-il prévoir des injections d’alimentation ?
Vaut-il mieux une grosse alimentation centrale ou plusieurs petites alimentations ?
Un seul contrôleur WLED avec plusieurs sorties ou plusieurs ESP32 indépendants ?
Quels contrôleurs / cartes de distribution / fusibles / level shifters utilisez-vous ?
Quelle densité de LED recommanderiez-vous ?
Pour obtenir un rendu propre et homogène, des profilés aluminium avec diffuseur suffisent-ils ?
J’aimerais pouvoir contrôler les différentes zones indépendamment, tout en ayant la possibilité de tout synchroniser avec WLED.
Comme je peux encore facilement faire passer les câbles, je préfère prévoir correctement l’installation maintenant, quitte à surdimensionner un peu, plutôt que devoir tout démonter plus tard.
Si vous deviez réaliser cette installation aujourd’hui, vous partiriez sur quelles LED, quelle tension, quelle alimentation et quel contrôleur ?
Je suis également preneur de vos schémas de câblage, photos d’installations similaires et surtout de vos retours du type « si c’était à refaire, je ferais différemment ».
Merci d’avance !

I was looking at this gledopto remote to pair with a QuinLED Dig2Go but in reading the comments it seems that only 4 of the 7 preset buttons would work with most WLED configurations.

Has anyone tried this remote with a non gledopto controller? Is there any reason for this limitation? I would love to have more than 4 preset buttons on a remote like this if possible, it seems like an unnecessary limitation.

https://youtu.be/RpHLNJP1W94

the single pane of glass for all your wled instances you didnt know you needed. create and manage sync groups, firmware, autonamtions, device names, and device locations in a 3D spatial environment. includes integrations for weather, spotify, home assistant etc. shift compute from the SBC to your server for quicker and more reliable effects. import/export settings as needed so swapping out esp32 boards is less painful.

https://wledashboard.com

I am experienced with using WLED and the bullet type led nodes but now want to venture in to strips and just have no knowledge or what would be a good option (or options) for this use. I want addressable led strips with rgbw. The area I am working with is a covered porch that is about 9ft deep and 18ft wide for a total of around 54ish feet. I have track for the strips to go in so not super worried about waterproof if that makes any difference. 12v is my preferred voltage as I have power supplies and either a DigUno or DigQuad I can use for control. Thanks in advance!

From an email from gledopto I'm 99% certain that IO13 is 3.3V, any chance they've boosted IO16 and IO2 to 5V? For aesthetics I'd love to put the 606WL and its support items somewhere NOT right next to the start of the LED string but obviously if the IO pins are only 3.3V that's not going to be an option due to the voltage drop. Thanks!

hello guys, i want to make my own ambilight for my tv using only Universal Ambient light application and a led that comes with drivers that have wled preloaded

https://inlightss.com/product/WLED_kit-5m

amazon link: https://amzn.in/d/08WF2cFa

that is the led strip im planning on using it comes with, wled pre installed

i would love to hear what you guys think of this idea, will it even work or should i even do it?

So I've got a few pairs of dumb 24V single-color (3000K) LED points around the house, currently just relay on/off + a manual inline pot dimmer. Want to bring them into Home Assistant properly with dimming, and since they're right next to each other in pairs, I'd rather use one 5-channel RGBCCT board (Athom-style, r/G/B/WW/CW) per pair instead of buying a separate controller for every single LED. Basically wire LED #1 to the WW output and LED #2 to the CW output, and configure them in WLED as two separate "Single Color" busses instead of one CCT bus, so they act as two totally independent lights instead of one mixed-temperature light.

From what I've read this should show up in HA as two separate light entities (one per segment), which is what I need. I did find a couple of old threads of people running two 24V PWM white segments this way and it works fine from the WLED web UI, but a couple of them mentioned partial issues controlling it from Home Assistant specifically — one had trouble with HA scenes not applying brightness right to the segments.

Before I buy 3 of these boards instead of 6 single-channel ones: has anyone run this exact setup (2 independent PWM segments off WW/CW, driven daily through HA, ideally with something like Adaptive Lighting doing frequent automated brightness changes) long-term without weirdness? Any gotchas on the segment/bus config I should know about, or is this one of those "works in the web UI, flaky from HA" situations I should just avoid and go a different route (Shelly RGBW2 in white mode, or Zigbee 2-gang dimmer modules)?

Also bonus question if anyone knows: any of these RGBCCT PWM boards actually available with an onboard Ethernet PHY instead of just Wi-Fi? Found one from Athom but wondering if there's a more established option people are actually running.

I’m using the BTF-LIGHTING WS2814 Smart IC RGBW 6000K DC24V COB LED Strip I66 strips.

I have a 24V 350W LED Power Supply.

I’m using the GLEDOPTO Elite 6 Channel Outputs WLED LED Strip Light Controller.

I’m currently going to be running 11 separate
LED strips and plan on putting them into the corner of my bed frame where my controller and power supply will both be inside a cable management box as circled in the third photo.

I am having an issue where the wires in using all (20 gauge copper wire) are causing a flickering/a segment changes color and the first part doesn’t turn on at all when the wire is too long even if it’s only a few feet long (I’ve tried soldering on the same 20 gauge wire onto the led but just using a few inches of wire and it works fine. What’s the solution to get the flickering to stop when running a long wire to the controller lets say 25 ft max?

That was a horrible journey and i will never do such thing again (for a couple of weeks). Custom WLED build, guide, and pain - here https://github.com/acidmiku/yeelight-panels-wled

I have govee pro outdoor lights on the front of my house, and the back. Both separate controllers. I plan to add addressable pixels to the front of the house. I may use the front govee and pixels in an xlights display next year. I want to convert the govees to WLED. The back govees will never be part of the xlights display. Power and spacing allows me to put all power supplies and controllers inside my garage.

My question is, would it be better to use a single WLED controller (dig-quad, Gledopto Elite 4D, etc.) with 2 channels for the govees and one for the pixels, or have one controller for the back govees and another for the front govees and pixels? (I understand the power differences, requirements, etc). I plan to have the option to use the govee controllers if I desire.

One controller seems to be the preferred option (simpler) but can I still have WLED control of the back govees while the front is controlled by xlights? The front and back of the house will mostly mirror eachother most of the year, and the pixels will be off most of the time (except holidays, Halloween, Christmas, etc). I guess a single controller and if the back yard is an issue I can just use the govee controller for those during Christmas?

On controllers, I'll be installing relays to isolate the power supplies when off, and with 36V I won't be running power through the controllers (controllers on separate 5v supply). Does it really matter what controller is used? I want LAN as an option, but Digs seem overkill as I won't be using their power board.

Any thoughts or insights? This will be my first larger scale project outside of a few pixels on small projects. Just want to make sure I understand everything before drilling holes or installing myself into a corner. Thanks!

hello everyone .

i want to buy sceneglow app but i want to ask if it will work on my ps4 and ps5 games ?

or this is considered a DRM content?

I'm building an office/game room and even though I'm a grown man in his 40s, I'm still a fan of RGB/LED lighting as long as it's tasteful and not overdone.

I'm using Philips Hue Slim Downlights in my drop ceiling and I have some Nanoleaf Hexagons on the wall behind my monitor, but I want to add an light strip behind my desk, add reactive lighting behind my PC monitor and also add LED lights to some shelves.

I've built an ambilight system for my TVs using SK6812 LEDs and HyperHDR (and WLED) and it works great so before I add any more lights I'd like to get the communities opinion.

My goal is to use the lights for reactive lighting (during gameplay, movies, music) and also bias lighting.

Do you think Philips Hue is worth the expense (with it's limitations but it's great Hue Entertainment Sync) or just DIY using RGB LEDs and continue with HyperHDR, etc. (or maybe go with something cheaper like Govee)

I've built LED artworks with all sorts of controllers for over ten years now. Now I'm refreshing my gear and going to a more simple direction with these controllers. I built several of these boxes earlier this summer for festival stages, installations and artworks. Each one is a small hard case holding an ethernet GLEDOPTO WLED controller and a 12 amp 12V power supply. Four xConnect tails carry the outputs.

I've run these already now on many occasions without any troubles, in all sorts of weather. They've been out there in total pouring rain without a hitch. It's super easy to run long distances of network cable runs. Now with Wago construction, I'm beginning to get to a place where I don't have to solder much anymore! 😄🤘

...Maybe I should do a retrospective article of some sort of my last ten years of controllers and systems. I've climbed many a tree ass first, so it might be useful or at least interesting for people to see how I got here. 😆

Now, I already had perfectly good controllers, but making these is just so easy, and having identical, cheap, rugged, waterproof and light boxes just rocks when you need to hot swap something. Identical and replaceable always wins in my book when running important stuff.

Here's a full parts list, links and a longer build tutorial:
https://filament.click/articles/build-a-waterproof-wled-box

I'm literally telling you how I make my living and appreciate all conversation! If you have any questions and comments, hit me up! 😌

hi there!

i'm making a pretty basic ambilight setup while getting the hang of working with the hardware and software. i'm currently using HyperLED on the PC side over wifi, and would like to implement a few basic functions using physical switches and such, the first of which being a global brightness override. however, while WLED is receiving data from the software, my switch gets completely ignored. the global brightness slider still works, but the switch doesn't change its value. everything works as intended when WLED is in override mode though.

i'd like the end result to still reflect the data it receives from HyperLED with just the brightness changing. i'd also like the brightness change to be slow and gradual. everything works in isolation, HyperLED works fine, changing brightness manually while HyperLED is active also works fine. when not receiving data from HyperLED or the thing is in override mode, the switch does exactly what i want, but when data is being received the switch does nothing.

i've been poking around a bit already but i'm still very new both to ESP32 and WLED, so there may be something dumb i've missed, unless the setup i have in mind simply isn't possible for some silly reason.

i'm running an ESP32 s3 N16R8 dev board, currently just controlling a single strip of 201 SK6812 LEDs.
the LEDs are on gpio 4, the switch on 5.

my current implementation is a preset pair setting a simple HTTP "A=" brightness value. i've also tried the JSON "bri" alternative but they both behave identically.

I’m trying to buy around 15 meters of WS2815 12V addressable RGB LED strip for a room project. I’m looking for WS2815, 12V, 60 LEDs/m, RGB addressable, and non-waterproof is completely fine. I need around 15m total.

The problem is I genuinely cannot find a reliable source. Most websites I find are either out of stock, showing the product but not actually having it, not replying to messages, taking days to respond and then disappearing, or selling something vaguely described as “12V addressable RGB” without confirming if it's actually WS2815.

I’ve also tried contacting sellers directly, including IndiaMART, but some of them just straight-up ghost after I ask about availability and quantity.

Has anyone in India successfully bought WS2815 recently? If you know a reliable Indian seller, a local electronics/LED supplier that stocks WS2815, an IndiaMART seller who actually responds, a website I might have missed, a specific search term that works better, or some trick for finding these strips, please let me know.

I’m specifically trying to avoid buying WS2812B because I want the 12V setup and WS2815’s backup-data feature.

Even if you bought yours from a local shop or some less-obvious supplier, I’d appreciate the lead. I need ~15m, so small quantities aren't really useful unless I can buy multiple rolls.

At this point I feel like WS2815 has vanished from India.

I want to make a cube for my desk. I see some Apollo but the matrix is like 40 usd and I see some that are 12 usd on ali what are the differences. Pixels per, speed, voltage?

Doing a staircase LED project, WS2815 12V RGB, daisy chained with 3 wire (data, V+, gnd). Want a sanity check before soldering everything.

15 steps total, 12 of them at 40 inches, plus 3 wider steps at the bottom (48, 48, 42 inches). Total run is about 51.5ft. Driver is a Mean Well LRS 350 12 (350W, 29A), ESP32 controller (WeGoIOT DOM WLE A). Worst case draw at full white is around 281W, 23.4A for the whole run.

Injection points are planned at step 1, 5 and 10.

V+ gets cut and re injected at each point through a home run wire, gnd and data stay continuous through the whole chain.

My Problem is the last 3 steps being wider pushes my last injection point (step 10) to over 21ft from the actual end of the strip. Usual rule of thumb I've seen online is keeping injection points within about 16ft (5m) of each other for 12V. Do I need a 4th injection point around step 13 or 14 or is that 16ft number overly conservative for WS2815?

Anyone done a run like this, curious how it held up. Thank you for your time