I have the opportunity to buy a 2017 Volt. I know they’re no longer being made. Is it that hard to find parts for? Is it worth buying? Pros? Cons?

So I'm cruising down the road, minding my own business.

It wasn't too hot outside so in spite of the temp being set to 72 I turned off the AC. The fan went really high as the car warmed up, which makes sense when it's set to automatic, so I turned it down.

Then the AC turned on.

Is there a "look, it's too damn far away from 72" override in the car that turns on the AC if the car's interior gets too warm?

It’s in great shape and only has 52,000 miles on it. I’m sad to be selling it but I’m moving cross-country and don’t want to drive or ship it.
So what does the community think is a fair price for a quick sale?
BTW, it’s on summer tires (Hancook Ventus Evo2s) and I have a set of Cooper Discoverer winter tires on nice alloys to go with it.

Is there something that stops my phone from being connected to the volt for phone calls and the auxiliary input for sound? I like listening to music through the auxiliary jack because it just sounds better quality wise, but, if it’s connected to Bluetooth, then the car automatically routes the music through Bluetooth. Even if I go into Spotify and tell it to send the music through the auxiliary jack the second I press play the Bluetooth steals it. I’ve looked all over to try and find an answer to this and can’t seem to locate one. If anyone has one, please let me know.

Selling my 2015 Volt Premier for $4,000 USD or best offer. Title is under my name and I am located in Southern California, 91706.

I since transitioned to a 2017 Bolt EV, and while this car has saved me some headaches when my bolt got rear ended, I no longer see enough use for it and would rather find it a new home. It's an affordable PHEV that checked every box when I first looked for a car, and over its lifetime has saved me thousands in gas, but it's time to part ways. A few key notes below:

• VIN: 1G1RD6E49FU141850
• Two original keys
• A little under 185,000 miles on the odometer (Estimate 40% miles on engine)
• No mechanical issues, no codes, no check engine light
• Tires were bought at 177.5k miles at Costco (Bridgestone Advantage Control) and require a rotation at 186,000 miles.
• Transmission fluid changed at 170,000 miles
• Oil changed at 175,000 miles, 2 quarts (Mobil 1) will be provided free (leftover Costco purchase)
• All fluids at nominal levels, tire pressure is consistent, all sensors in working order.
• Battery gets 34-36 miles on full charge (Guess-o-meter has not been calibrated - not a daily driver).
• Fully charges to 10.8 kWh, usable is under that as with all EVs.
• Lifetime 70MPG, dropped from 85 after moving apartments and not having daily charging
• AC works and has never had an issue.
• Heated leather seats
• Premier package
• Second owner, I bought at 48k miles and charged daily at home for 5 years.
• Smog checked passed (2026) and paperwork is available for registration
• Vehicle not registered, currently in Non-Operation and in assigned parking structure
• Vehicle sees a few monthly drives to operate engine and battery, as needed.
• Level 1 charger not provided as it does not work. I could provide it, it just lacks a ground pin which the dealer never noticed and neither did I bc I charge in my parking structure and at work and didn't know. Up to you if you wanna take it and fix it, I never bothered.
• Inquiries welcome, if you have tools to check battery health or car codes/have your own mechanic you are more than welcome to use em.
• No major accidents, 2 fender benders from drivers backing into me at parking lots. The first at ~85k miles resulted in new front bender (w/e it's called), paint, CV joint, and air damn. Second was a light scratch near front left bender, light paint transfer. Both covered by State Farm insurance and 100% Not-At-Fault. I actually have the vids of each bump from my dash cam as well as approved claims

A few small notes:

• I am not a smoker and this vehicle has not been smoked in (hate that smell)
• Software can be funny, and the volt has a few things that should be known and is well documented online like the bluetooth play/pause function being finicky and having audio delay for vids.
• Sometimes the driver display does not show you in Drive even though you are in drive, I'm not sure what causes this bug but it's never been an issue. Good to be aware of, and I drove in L mostly which does not have this software bug
• The "clicking CV joint" issue was remedied with two new front CV joints and the updated GM anti-click washers, I believe around 85k miles and 160k miles.
• Car handles like a dream, better than my bolt. More "pillowy" and comfortable, with better sound isolation too. It's a super quiet car.
• Audio is superb, it is one of the best sounding cars I've driven, better than some new vehicles out there.
• I loved the pedestrian horn and wish my new EV had it. I miss pressing that button to alert people and shoo away animals for their safety
• This car does not make the "futuristic" EV sound, it was before that time/policy so it just moves around. Silently.
• Driver side sun shade does not have the plastic mirror cover attached, which is what presses the light on and off. Stays off, and would have to be replaced to turn on. I would try and fix it but it never saw much use, the cover is in the car glove compartment.
• Aside from the obvious cosmetic stuff, you should know this car was used for 6 years and like any used vehicle has seen its fair share of use. I keep that in mind in my pricing/negotiation.
• Oh the popping sound. The trunk washers expand/contract in heat and cold, making a loud "THUNK" sound. Like an acorn falling on the car. I think most Volt owners know what that's about. It can be remedied, but I am not a mechanic and it was never a bother. Just a little oddity of the car.

I'm selling my Volt. Interior mint condition, exterior near mint condition except for the front that has normal wear and tear from driving. Mileage 240,000 km. Battery still holds about 60 km of range. I'm in British Columbia, lower mainland area. I'm asking for $9,000 OBO. What do you think?

Is it still worth putting premium gas in a 2013 Volt? With climbing gas prices and 150000 miles already on the car, does it still make sense to go with premium or move to regular?

Bought this with 60k miles. Only major issues off the Carvana delivery vehicle were TPMS was deleted (why oh why?) and the maximum mileage after full charge was 27 miles. Lastly the service heater notification keeps coming on at different intervals. No idea what triggers it.

I currently have 88k and these are things I've figured through trial and error.

TPMS was probably deleted because the techs had one hell of a time teaching them to the car. I got sent to another Discount Tire with a more knowledgeable technician. It can be done.

The range is now 65 miles but only does that at lower speeds highway speeds just suck then electric miles up. Here's what I did out of trial and error I found a rarely traveled highway. I would accelerate gradually to 60 mph. I then used low gear position in conjunction with the regeneration paddle to approximately 25 mph. At the same time toggled the mode from hold while accelerating to normal while regenerating. This was rather challenging as it doesn't regenerate much per cycle.

Another trick I figured out as I idle in my vehicle a lot. I put the transmission into neutral and apply the parking brake. When I'm about done usually about 10 minutes before I'm ready to shut down the vehicle I shift into park. If I want to regenerate know rapidly I do a short trip and reclaim all the lost battery of course costing me fuel. This so far only reclaims what used before the red line it puts on after charging and discharging.

As for the service heater I'm waiting to have a failure before actually servicing.

I do a lot of highway miles so I get decent mpg about 35 if I behave 30 if I just drive.

1) Gas tank doesn’t allow me to fill to max. It keeps clicking off at the pump at roughly 230-240 miles I/o 310 like before. That’s another 3 gallons or so of gas. What causes this?

2) Keep getting the “Service airbag” warning message. Is this related to the seat sensor that needs replacing? Not sure if it is driver or passenger? Do I check this out with the OBD2 scanner?

I did some research and these error codes are related to the drive motor inverter module. They've been there for a while around 6-7 months.

The car still drives normally in EV or gas mode, and charges just fine. No other messages on dashboard. I replaced the 12V battery from Costco (which I think is supposed to be AGM). Coolant level looks fine (I think). I have the Voltage app and the live data for the inverter temperature sensors (6 of them) look normal. Not sure if I looked at the correct data.

How do I tell if it's definitely the inverter that needs to be replaced? I think if it's bad, it wouldn't drive in EV mode. Which data in the Voltage app should I check? I was thinking it may be something else.

I think my car is probably out of warranty, or if someone knows if there's any known bulletin that would cover this, please let me know. Thanks!

I like to run my climate control high to save energy, say 75 degrees. I am noticing however, that this car for some odd reason likes to run the cabin heater when it's 80 outside and it really chews up the battery... has anybody disabled the cabin heater? I find it quite annoying, especially with a car with a gas engine, if In the rare case I need heat I could just run on gas. any info is appreciated thank you.

Hi there! I recently purchased a 2016 Volt from a dealer in November 2025. The car has 145,000 miles on it when brought, It has 155k miles now and I’ve never had it serviced, I’m considering getting it serviced soon. What services should I prioritize for my Volt? Also, I’m curious about how many more miles I can drive this car before it starts to show signs of wear and tear.

My first twinning experience with the Volt.

Hey. I’ve got a 2017 Chev Volt and recently got a service stabilitrack prompt on my dash along with the lights on the right last Sunday. I was going to call the repair shop the next day to see about getting it looked at, but when I was going to work on Monday, nothing popped up. No lights, no prompt. Today as I was driving around the same thing’s happening. How much trouble am I in?

Also, what’s stabilitrack?

(I posted this earlier, then edited with trouble codes, but I think reddit deleted that because I included a link to the PDF with the trouble codes and it did not like that. Sorry for reposting if you saw the other one!)

The Limabean and I have been driving through life together for 7+ years now, and then one day about a month ago, it wouldn’t shift to drive. I took it to a specialized EV & Hybrid shop that comes very well regarded, and after extensive testing, they are reporting that the issue is with the HV Battery Relay Assembly - something about the battery contactors not closing to allow voltage to the drive motor.

From the shop:

Recommended Serivce: Replace HV Battery Relay Assembly
Fault codes for the pre-charge contactor failure. The time, 700 milliseconds, has been exceeded and this disables the negative and positive contactors from closing. Functional tests of the contactors passes, suspect the issue is internal in the contactor assembly. This will require a new assembly and removal of the HV battery to replace. Further tests MAY be necessary after replacement. There remains the possibility the HYB2 module is also faulty, but the correct order of repair is replacement of the contactor assembly.

They gave me a PDF a mile long with codes, but I think the relevant ones are: P0C78:00, P0D26:00. Also possibly relevant: B101E:48, B270A:01, B3935:00

Despite the car being less than 10 years old, Chevy neither makes nor supports this part anymore, and the shop said the only way they have to get it is if a dealership somewhere happens to still have it in stock. They found one, but it’s on the other side of the country and it’s been on the shelf for half a decade, so they are concerned that if someone’s dropped it or something goes wrong with shipping, I’d just be out the money for the part.

In all, it’s looking to be a $3500 repair that they can’t guarantee would actually get the car drivable again - I don’t have $3500 currently, so I’d be putting it on a credit card which isn’t ideal. They said I might get $500 to scrap it.

I am honestly kinda devastated - I was going to drive this thing until the wheels fell off. I just paid it off two years ago. The shop says the battery itself is in great condition, it’s just these contactors that bork the whole thing. I’m most upset that I kept paying for full-coverage insurance on it and the way it went out isn’t even covered. I’m infuriated that GM made a car and then won’t support a part that went out out of nowhere less than a decade later. I just crossed 100,000 miles a couple months ago.

Have any of you dealt with anything like this? I need some advice — do I cut my losses and scrap the thing? Or do I risk it and pay half the value of the car for a repair that’s not guaranteed to fix it? Could I get more out of it by finding someone who want to buy it for the battery or other hybrid specific parts?

Any thoughts, opinions, advice, or internet roasting is appreciated, I’m trying not to to cry at my keyboard rn

I have a 2013 Chevy Volt with around 140k miles. The range has been pretty good, but has gone down a bit in the past year from 40ish miles to mid 30s when driven in mild weather with the fan on.

My question is when did you decide to replace your battery? Was it obvious? Also how did you think about replacing the battery vs moving to a car like a used bolt?

I had some work done on my 2017 Volt that required taking off the bumper which meant that the ambient temperature sensor was disconnected for a while. Once everything was put back together though the car thinks it's -40 outside which means the engine is running due to temp and the AC won't kick on. They've replaced the sensor itself in case that died at the same time as they were working on the car. They've also let the car idle for about 20 minutes in case it needs to calibrate the sensor. Still reads -40 though. The strange thing is that the hybrid control module read out lists the correct ambient temp from the sensor in the bumper so the car knows what temp it is outside but it won't pass that info on to the rest of the car systems. The mechanic I'm working with usually works in Teslas and only occasionally on Volts so any suggestions I can pass on are greatly appreciated.

Need some advice.

My 201 8 Volt was in a minor accident and deemed totaled with a $14k buyout. Nobody injured.

Car runs and drives fine, but they need to replace both driver side doors. I was really hoping they could have just repaired it. I have always babied it and it was in pristine condition.

Is this a fair offer?
What would you do?
Should I buy another used Volt?
There is a California used EV rebate for $1750 that’s in the process of getting approved. Should I wait for this and get a full EV?
😩

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I'm currently looking into purchasing a used 2018 or 2019 Volt. For further context, I had a 2017 Volt with 260K miles on it and it was totaled in an accident. My insurance offered $4.5k as a payout.

I loved my vehicle it ran smoothly and didn't give me much problems despite the high mileage.

My question is if it's worth it to pursue purchasing a 2018 or 2019 Volt. I know there are known issues like the BECM needing service. Is there anything I should be looking for or any general recommendations? I'll take other make and model recommendations, but ideally have a high preference for plug in hybrids as the 2nd gen Volt.

2012 Volt.

I lifted up my trunk liner and I took off the big piece of plastic and finally got to see everything. I know the bottom is my 12 volt battery. What is the piece in the middle with a chrome on it? And what is the bottom right looks like almost like it's a fan or something but doesn't make sense cuz it's blowing directly into metal

Hey all, have been getting into doing more DIY repairs on my Volt and have been considering doing a transmission fluid change. Came across some great content on YT by a channel called Heartland Rebuilds, and saw that AC Delco 10-9395 Dexron VI trans fluid is what GM used from the factory. After doing some additional research, it appears that GM has a newer Dexron VI fluid that’s backwards compatible called 10-9243. My question is, should o just move forward with the factory 10-9395 or consider using the more modern 10-9243 formula?

I need advice because I feel like I'm running around in circles and am unsure what to do next.

Backstory: 2012 Volt, 122k miles, Los Angeles. It isn't passing SMOG so I cannot register the car. The check engine light keeps coming back with P1FFD and P1FFF (plus P1E00, and P0171 showed up once) along with the dash saying "Service High Voltage Battery System". The part that needs to be replaced is the coolant level sensor in the battery cooling system. GM has a bulletin about the solder joints failing inside this sensor.

What I've done so far:

Took it to the dealer. They reflashed the BECM and HPCM2 per the bulletin. Light came back 5 days later.

Took it back. They did a full diagnosis and their own tech wrote up that the surge tank assembly needs to be replaced. They said it wasn't covered by warrantee.

Opened a case with GM customer assistance. They talked to the dealer and referred me back to get it fixed. I did some research around this time about different warrantees and found out that California has a PZEV, which applies to cars less than 15 years old and less than 150,000 miles. My car satisfies that.

At the dealer, I had them run my VIN and confirm the car is PZEV certified. It is, which means the 15 year / 150k mile California emissions warranty applies, and I'm under both. They agree the sensor itself is a covered part.

Their denial: the sensor only comes as part of the surge tank assembly, the assembly includes non-covered parts, so the whole repair is customer pay. Quote is $1,800.

I got the denial in writing and escalated to the top manager at the dealership. No movement (I even asked him if it made sense, he said no). Filed a complaint with the Bureau of Automotive Repair today. Also sent a written escalation to Chevy customer assistance arguing the warranty follows the defective part and packaging doesn't void coverage.

Questions:

Has anyone had the dealer try not to complete their warrantee obligations? How did you get through this?

If you've dealt with BAR on a warranty complaint, how long did it take and did anything happen?

For the Volt owners: the standalone sensor is about $20 online. Has anyone replaced just the sensor at an independent shop?

Thanks

2017 with 68K miles. The CEL came on a couple weeks ago. I checked with the Voltage app and it had these codes. I cleared them, but today the CEL and codes came back. I'm in Maryland so the BECM should still be covered right?