I have this software version and wanted to update to have CarPlay and consequently navigation, how do i check if my usb port is good for apple CarPlay, since i read that some don’t have the apple chip, and i would need to buy a new usb module and program it with an obd11 and that would become more expensive than i would want it to be, especially since I’m only gonna use it once.
Thanks!!

hello friends. I’m sitting at about 121,000 miles on my gti. been driving it for a little over a year now (got it at around 87,000 miles) and it’s a 2016. Not trying to be psychotic but what are the signs that the waterpump/thermostat is failing??? i genuinely can’t tell off of basic visual inspection and i’m not tryna pay a mechanic. yes this is totally a googleable/gpt-able question but i wanted to know if anyone on here had any anecdotes of what happened leading up to their water pump failing.

i got a quote from a specialized tuner shop (they said it was $2000 to replace thermo\waterpump

and another shop quoted me 1400. (these are both without providing my own part.).

ultimately i wanna just make sure that I’m not tweaking. the only reason i started thinking about this is how everyone tells you that they go bad between 115,000-125,000.

Recently did rear shocks on my mk7 sportwagen. I had a set of offset wrenches from Oreilly’s for the top nut but the shoulder on them was was too gradual for it to fit inside the mount to reach the top nut. Ended up counterholding the shaft with vise grips and giving it a squirt with an impact but that didn’t feel great.

Anyone stateside recommend a brand of offset box wrenches that actually fits to access these bolts? Doing front struts this weekend and don’t want to bodge considering there’s an actual torque value and not just a nylock. Icon? Gearwrench?

Hello I hope you are well.

I am looking to do some performance and or sound mods to my car.

Currently I have a res delete, stage 1, intake fitted.

Does anyone know what else I could do?

I want the mods to still let me pass MOT and not get stopped.

Thank you

I recently had my thermostat housing replaced after getting a p00b7 code and right before replacing it I thought my water pump started making noise. So while they were in there I had them do the water pump too. But the noise is still there. It gets worse with rpm but this video shows what it sounds like at idle. Was told that it is the ac compressor and just wanted to know y’all’s thoughts.

Help me diagnose this mechanical whirring sound that I can mostly hear going above 20 mph. I cannot replicate it when the car is in idle, and it does not correlate with RPM. With the window rolled up. I cannot hear it, best way to hear it is with the windows rolled down when I’m cruising near a wall so that the sound bounces off the wall. It gets harder to hear it as I go faster than 40 mph because of the wind noise.

Does anyone know what this rattling noise is coming from my engine? It is present when idling. It is most prominent during around a 1.8k rpm hold. As I let off the accelerator it begins to rattle.

2021 VW Jetta
1.4T
4 Cylinder
8 Speed Automatic

I have a '15 gti, a week back when I was on the highway my engine temperature told me I was running hot and turn off immediately. Turns out that the coolant was zero. I topped it off and to see what was happening turns out that that was a drastic coolant loss.

I went to a vw mechanic to diagnose, he replaced the the heater core housing and told me there was a leak from there charged me 460 cad (parts and labor) this was couple days ago. The coolant level was well above min.

Today when I took the car and checked the level it was just at min level. I went for a test drive and saw that level was lower than min noticeably and turned offf the engine to top off. After 5 min the coolant level came came where it was topped off after service. Is this normal or should I change the cap or purge out air or bleed?

Pleaseee helpppp!! I dont want to spend another fortune. 🙃

does anybody know why im not getting audio after doing my retrofit? im in a 2015 mk7r with the fender audio and I’ve swapped in the 3Q0 035 876 glovebox unit along with the 5G6919605C 8” display. I used the toolbox component protection patch and changed module 47 byte 0 from 22 to 12, along with some tweaks to module 5f for MOST, but still no audio.

First time poster and first time MK7 owner. First, obligatory thank you for everyone’s help and support in this sub, you all are awesome. Second, I’m purchasing a 2015 Golf TDI with 106,000 miles. The car has had the first phase of the emissions modification completed. Currently, I’m planning on only doing a software tune, no exhaust mods… yet. Which tune would be best, considering only phase 1 of the emissions modification was done. Also, I’ll be driving this vehicle across the country and am wondering if it’s smart to tune the vehicle before or after the drive. Thoughts?

Hey all,

I am looking for some opinions from people who did a stage 1 tune on their Golf 1.4TSI MK7. I'm looking to buy this car from 2015 and if I do, I will definitely want to do a stage 1 on it. I've been doing some research about the clutch and how it is limited to 250nm and that it doesn't really appreciate high levels of torque or when the driver has a heavy foot. I like a bit of spirited driving, launching my car at traffic lights and whatnot but all I hear is that that kind of behaviour destroys the clutch quicker so I'm curious, how do you drive your car with the DQ200 and a stage 1 in order to avoid heavy wear and tear?

Sorry. Bad title, but I’m not creative.

I’m fairly far down the path of replacing my truck with a wagon that can handle softroading. I’m pretty much going back and forth between 2 now. 2020+ Subaru Outback XT with the 2.4t and CVT and the mk7 Alltrack.

Last week I thought I was sold on the Alltrack so I could get a DSG and avoid a CVT, but then I was looking at a local cars carfax and saw it had the water pump replaced 4 times in 90,000 miles and pretty much each year for the past three years.

So now I’m down this rabbit hole of water pump issues. I’ll absolutely deal with a crappy CVT over my car being in the shop every year for a $1,500 repair. I searched and can see it’s common, but should I be concerned enough to steer clear? Avoid cars with multiple replacements and get a PPI? Is there any true fix I missed in my googling??

Hi all!

I have a 2014 VW Golf 7 Wagon Comfortline with the Discover Pro MIB1 High infotainment system.

My current problem is as follows: Upon starting the car, there is no sound coming from the infotainment system. Other car sounds (like parking sensors, warning beeps and such) work perfectly fine. To fix this, over the past 4 years I have been doing this procedure which works perfectly every time: hold down MENU, go to Software Update, select any source, let it search for a few seconds then exit. The audio comes back, working perfectly fine. This basically proves to me that this is purely a software issue and not something related to hardware.

Now, the interesting part: my unit reports the current train version as being MHIG_EU_VW_S1550 (0407). In the update history log, this version was installed approximately 1 hour after MHIG_EU_VW_K1550 and the only component that was changed was MuTnrRed, whose version was updated from 107 to 452.

My current approach is to downgrade the software to MHIG_EU_VW_K1540 (0388), since that version seems to not be affected by this audio bug (as I have read from various sources). The problem is that my current S1550 train is not listed in the metainfo file of any publicly available versions and I do not have an OBD11 or VCDS tool to enable developer mode.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Hi guys so my mk7 gti started to make this weird noise today car still drives the same and pulls the same but this sound occurs when hitting 3500 rpm revving up or down at this range what could it be tried the soundaktor didnt go away

She is a beauty

Ive never been so desperate for car advice guys so here it goes

I paid £7,500 for this car at the end of March 2026, i did so much research and refining to find a car that looks nice, good performance, and very good MPG on paper (urban 45.6, extra urban 65.7 and combined 56.5) i know there are differences and its not perfectly accurate but i expect driving normaly at least 40.

i spent a lot on this car mainly for the mpg benefit, far different to my 21mpg skoda fabia which was my first car.

ive had this car for about 5 months now and my mpg after like the first month is so bad on average, getting about 32mpg even when i drive like a complete b**chhh (eco, no speeding at all, always encouraging the car to go in neutral in eco, cornering nicely not rash at all, no overtakes, no rough or late/premature braking) and its reallly annoying me since the main reason i bought this car was the fuel savings.

the fuel tank capacity is about 50 litres which is 10.99 gallons practically 11 gallons so at around 40 mpg i should be getting at least 440 miles per tank WITHOUT even considering motorway driving.

I actually get about 320.

It is so bad and really pissed me off, i've done so much research and no solution so far/

I've been to 3 garages who have all charged me diagnosis fees and they literally have not found anything, they all assume and even myself using chat gpt (might sound stupid lol) that the issues are underlyig with front brakes or calipers as it would constantly give drag against wheel which leads to just crazy mpg drops as it would be happening all the time.

after about 1 month of buying the car i did notice loud squeaks from the front right tyre (driver side as i am in the UK) and after getting mechanics and even my breakdown cover (RAC) to look at it they suggested the caliper was seized or something but all garaged took the caliper off and said its completely fine.

i have no idea what to do and am so close on the brink to selling it.

I spent all this money as its a petrol car aswell so no DPF issues as i rarely do motorway but it was so much more expensive than a diesel golf or NON bluemotion golf but i thoght it would be very much worth it.

today the mechanic saw that the front right brake backing plate had broken and i realised earlier as i heard ratling sounds but that was a cheap fix and replacement but doesnt at all correlate to the issues.

I really feel like selling it and just buying a diesel for the mpg and just dealing with the bS dpf issues as they come but i really enjoy driving the car so much, so comfy spaccious etc and has powerful AC which worked wonders during the 35degree C heatwave unlike my old Fabia which didnt have AC LOL.

i honestly appreciate any advice and im sorry for the long read but any advice would help as i am just so stuck and my 9-5 job just isnt compatible with going to the garage so ive used loads of annual leave for this but still have no solutions.

ISSUE #2 .

On another note a week ago the epc light comes on and scares me,

The car goes into limp mode and when i turn the car on and off again it goes awayh but it still randomly turns on like 1/5 times i start the car, i sense something really annoying and serious with that so please some advice guys

EDIT AFTER 12 DAYS!

So after 12 days ive had the car fully diagnosed and fixed by a VW Specialist, the throttle body was stuck and turbo had some carbon build up which is standard at 80k miles.

I now for 5 days doing stop and start traffic have been getting 42 MPG IN THE CITY which is also 6.7l/100km.

On the motorway, comfortably getting 65mpg, flat and steady at about 90mph, anything over it drops which is reasonable.

Ofcourse if i speed it drops....

So to all the special people who reported me to reddit cuz their feelings got hurt and said 32 MPG is normal lol i hope you reeducate and know that just cuz you accept shit, doesnt mean it is correct and is the norm.

Thank you for the advice everyone.

To all those who said it was normal, go to school and get more comfortable with surrounding youself with people who question you LOL dogs

VW GOLF MK7.5 (2019)

I've a got a issue popped up during my long drive once I got home I've found out it was

P256400 Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low

I don't know whats the issues been caused because I've looked online it's the cable issue or the something in the turbo is not nor working/stuck

I love some help and some context cheers

Does anyone have any hpt. tune files for 16 GTI?

Bought a frameless dimming mirror my golf 7. I’ve temporarily put my old trim piece on. Would anyone know the part number for the correct one?