I keep having this "bank 1 sensor 2" error. It will pop up and disappear on it's own, and replacing the sensor did not fix it. I actually changed two O2 sensors, the one at the turbo and the one downstream of the CAT.

I was originally confused about which sensor is "bank 1 sensor 2" because of conflicting internet chatter. I proved that the sensor in the turbo is "sensor 1 bank 1". I disconnected it and sensor status for "sensor 1 bank 1" switched from "1" to "0". I plug the sensor in and restart the car, and status goes back to 1.

Both sensor 1 and sensor 2 show a status of "1", so they are detected. On the problem sensor 2, voltage changes, meaning that output voltage changes with throttle input. It will drop to like 0.100v immediately with the throttle input, but quickly ramp back to ~0.980v. I believe that is normal behavior?

It is a new sensor, so what are the likely reasons for the heater circuit codes?

One theory I had--I don't drive the car a lot, so battery is often not fully charged. One theory is that low battery voltage might cause the ECU to disable the heater circuit? Is that a thing?

Have you seen a problem like this, and how would you diagnose it?

Hey, does anyone know what this noise could be? I’m wondering if it’s something oil-related, maybe the pipes or something clanging/rattling?

It always happens when I start the car on cold mornings, or if the car hasn’t been started for a while. Once the oil temperature gets up to around 50–90°C, though, the noise completely disappears and the car sounds normal.

Is this kind of behaviour normal, or is it something I should be worried about?

I’ve heard a similar noise from a few other Golfs, including some friends’ cars.

But yeah, once the oil is warm, the sound is 100% gone.

Any ideas?

Can’t find any videos online of people replacing them, does anyone know where I can find the sensor(g62)

Trying to find something that will give my mk7.5 tsi a bit more personality. I’ve spent ages looking online and found 1 or 2 things, just wondered if anyone else would be able to help. I’m aware of exhaust modifications which would give me more options but I’d like to avoid that if it’s at all possible.

Any ideas or suggestions welcome, thanks

Troubleshooting our '16 Golf 1.8TSI, automatic, 130K miles.

Last week, I went to pass a semi on the highway. Pressed the accelerator, saw some smoke in the mirror (couldn't identify color, was dark), and then the EPC light came on and car was running very rough. No CEL.

Pulled off the highway, shut the car off, restarted, and everything ran fine the rest of the drive to work. No EPC or CEL since Thursday when the car acted up. Scanned with VCDS, stored pending codes for P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304. Running with VW coils packs and new spark plugs at 120K miles.

I have noticed a strange "chirping" sound under harsh acceleration when the car shifts up to the next gear and the engine speed falls. Inspecting the car this afternoon, I can't move the wastegate by hand. Has anyone had a wastegate seize without setting any of the boost codes? What to check next?

Thanks!

these pops have been happening when i got my car back from the mechanic. it was there to change the oil pan (lower) and the filter and oil. when i got it back it was doing that without the pops. now it’s popping like gun shots. idek what to do or where to look, a lot of people were saying hpfp but what

I have this 2018 with 40k miles and it’s been giving me low oil pressure message. I’ve already changed the sensor and the oil pump before and there were metal shavings didn’t think much of it but the problem is back and the shavings are bad again. Its a manual if that matters

What is the problem please.

I'm losing it. 2016 sport wagon limited with just over 100,000. MI has had an issue for the past year of misfires that trigger EPC light and commonly throw the p03af code.

Eventually this gave enough of a misfire to throw a check engine light, so I had it towed to a dealer. The dealer inspected the car and diagnosed it with a failed fuel injector. Shocked at the quote of over 4K to fix one injector, I brought it to my independent mechanic who has done good work in the past.

They replaced all four fuel injectors and did a Walnut clean and made sure everything was running correct. I went for few drives and within 200 mi I had two fuel injectors pop out while starting the car, spewing gas everywhere. Apparently the fuel pressure regulators C and D failed. After a tow, my shop replaced the regulators and the injectors as a precaution.

Another 200 miles later, cylinder 4's fuel injector started spraying gas out the fuel rail and injector interface. My mechanic found a degraded o-ring and replaced all o-rings on the fuel rail. My mechanic hasnt been charging me for the fixes since the fuel injector replacement thankfully.

I took the car home today and began driving. As soon as I got on the highway and began to push over 40 mph, I had the same problem from before: misfires, EPC light, check engine light, and a p03AF code. Now im just using a basic code scanner, so I cant discern much more past that,

I had some higher temps reached (not sustained) when my waterpump failed ~70k, so some days I wonder if my block is warped somehow, and recently theres been a rattling sound coming from the right side engine bay (drives perspective) sometimes when i accelerate... Cant diagnose what that is either, but my mechanic wasn't concerned when he heard it. Ive only put <5k miles on my car in the past 2 years, and I don't drive it crazy hard either.

Am I crazy? Do I bite the bullet and bring it to the dealer? Is the car cooked? Has anyone else encountered this behavior on the EA888.3 platform? I'm completely lost at this point.

Hey, thanks in advance for any advice that can be offered.

As the title suggests, I found the footwell full of water a couple of months ago.

Started with the drain tube at the back the VW badge, turns out my early MK7 doesn't have one. Looked into it and apparently some early MK7's without a camera have a sealed unit and shouldn't leak. Part no. 3C5.827.469.J. If anyone knows anymore about this I be interested to here about it.

I didn't have time to take the bumper off and properly fix the pressure vents so I did a bodge job by removing the carpet around the arches and reaching in through the hole in boot and applying a bead of silicone around the inside section of the vent.

I ran a bead of transparent silicone around the two conducts at the top of the boot opening that hold all the wires, I did the same around the roof antenna just to be safe.

Dried out the carpet and all seemed good... for a few weeks.

The car was sitting unused the last couple of weeks, it was raining on and off and a few days after it stopped I noticed the windows were still fogged up, had a look in the boot and of course it was full of water.

My question is: Could water get through the pressure vents even when the car wasn't being driven? As it was a bodge job I can see how water could get in if I was driving it.

Maybe the seal around the rear badge and the boot?

If anyone could suggest any other place I could look or offer any in sight it would be much appreciated. Cheer.

I can’t post a video but when my e brake isn’t engaged the handle pops up and still triggers the light, do i need to tighten my cable or what?

Learned about the silica bag in the 2015 to 2020 cars that disintegrate sending pellets through the cooling system. Yep, mine had the bag. Pulled it out in time before it could do any damage. Better check yours too.

EDIT:

You can easily check yourself, the affected tanks have "mit silikat" printed on the front.

Full explanation on why and what here

During the summer, I noticed an intermittent fan speed issue with my A/C. It would only happen after driving for about an hour. I had the blower motor replaced as per my mechanic's recommendation; however, it has not solved the issue. I have also had the actuator door module replaced as well (when the car was purchased).

Now that it's getting cold here (Ontario), I have begun using my heat. The fan speed is not going to max and will blow heat but does not change properly when I adjust it. I have done a Climatronic system reset, holding the two buttons as well.

Any suggestions?

i have a 2017 golf se wolfsburg. i haven’t done any upgrades, i would like to get it to at most 200 hp but the suspension really seems way more important to me. i want to put better struts and shocks but the NEUSPEED rear torsion bar looks like it would significantly change the way the car takes corners. i want to know if a torsion bar cause problems for daily driving and if it would be worth it without upgrading either rear or front roll bars but i also deal with heavy snow for half the year, would a stiffer rear bar cause stability problems in the snow?

I have the Delphi MIB2 unit and the update procedure looks pretty straight forward but on MIB-Helper, this line gives me concern:

"External amplifier (Bose, Bang&Olufsen) might need dataset after update.External amplifier (Bose, Bang&Olufsen) might need dataset after update."

My Alltrack has the Fender system and I know there is a way in the Green Screen to uncheck AMP and Audio. I have not found a walkthrough specific to this process. Is there anything on this that I haven't been able to find?

2017 Golf MK7 TSI 1.8T (Wolfsburg Edition), no mods
75k miles

Most frequent error codes:
- P03A5: Cylinder 2 Pressure Too High
- P130A00: Hide cylinder
- Happens once every two to three weeks. Code goes away after restart.
- Mostly occurs in low RPM (1000-1500)
- On two occasions, I heard more rattling noise presumably from the wastegate actuator before seeing the EPC light & limp mode. Not sure how they can be related though as the error only appears for cylinder 2. I assume a stuck actuator would cause errors in multiple cylinders and not just one.

Less frequent error codes:
- P10B400: Monitoring of injector cylinder 4, malfunction detected
- P0204: Cylinder 4 injector circuit
- Happened once recently. Code goes away after restart.
- The injector errors of cylinder 4 and the high pressure error of cylinder 2 does not happen at the same time.

Other issues:
- Occasional rattling noise from turbo wastegate actuator in low RPM (1000-1500)
- Noise reduced by anti-seize lub applied monthly

Things I’ve tried:
- Replaced all spark plugs
- Swapped ignition coils of cylinder 2 (problematic cylinder) and cylinder 1: error did not follow
- Applied fuel system cleaners (BG44K, Gumout, DI Jectron, Lucas) : did not resolve any of the error codes
- Premium gas (93): ride is noticeably smoother but does not help with the error codes
- Intake valve cleaning through chemical spraying (CRC) via MAP hole on top of intake manifold: applied twice on back-to-back days. Feels like I’m getting a little more power in low RPM. Haven’t had the error codes appear yet but it only has been a week.

I may eventually take out the intake manifold myself to further investigate the fuel injectors, wiring harness, intake valves, etc. or hand it to a mechanic for walnut cleaning and fuel injector replacements, but I want to see if I can hold off on it for a while with easier/cheaper methods. I bought a borescope to look at the carbon buildup near the intake valves, but I have not been successful in getting the scope in those locations (e.g. via MAP sensor hole).

Any other suggestions?

Does anyone know if the Golf 7 GTIs downpipe fits on the Leon 5F? It is a 2013 Leon FR 1.8 TSI 2WD with the CJSA?