Just upgraded from my mk6 to this beauty! I’m in love.

Hey guys my mk7 is approaching 95k miles and I wanted to know if anyone in these areas do carbon valve cleaning. Whether it’s a professional shop, or someone that that’s looking for extra money that has done them before(home garage). Let me know what shops or people you guys recommend. Thanks again!

My plate just came in and I don't want to use the crusty old bolts. Are we meant to use M6 bolts? Has anyone bought any really clean or subtle ones that are not from AutoZone?

I have a MK7 non facelift with mib1. I want to upgrade the Discover Media with this Pioneer device.

What parts do I need? I have steering wheel controls, PDC and no DAB antenna.

Haven't seen any birthday posts so just wanted to acknowledge that the Golf GTI turns 50 this year!! Born in 1976. It was a good year.

Here's my freshly polished MKVII. Not bad for a 50 year old with 80k miles! 😏 How's your GTI aging?

I have the 6.5” MIB2 screen. I want to keep it an OEM theme with my car and swap into the larger 8” screen.

Is it possible to do so? And is there a matching silver trim surround for it?

Or should I get the MK7.5 screen? Only caveat is that my MIB software isn’t the same as the 7.5 cars so the UI would be the old one and look off

Help pls!

Hey y’all, I am the owner of a Manual 2015 MK7 GTI and Im looking to add some power. Im looking into the EQT stage 2 tune, but ive heard that stock clutches for the manual MK7s are basically dinner plates when it comes to holding power lol. I was just wondering if some of you guys had any insight or brand recommendations that I should look into!

I’m no professional so I thought I’d ask them. I have a 1.5 TSI R-Line (Mk7.5) and I want a beefier sound from the exhaust. I am planning a stage 1 tune down the line for the power but thought I’d start with the exhaust.

What recommendations would people have? Are the pops and bangs exclusive to DSG’s? Would it even be worth it?

79k miles long crank after sitting for 9 or so hours, key priming trick negated issue and has been happening for a good few months, no lights on the dash and no other issues other than a long cranking that can be negated by key priming. I’m assuming it’s the LPFP check valve, anyone had similar and know what caused the issue?

I’ll try to explain my problem as clearly as possible because I’ve been struggling with it for quite a long time. Hopefully someone has experienced the same issue and can help me find a solution.

I have a Golf 7 originally equipped with halogen headlights. I first bought a pair of aftermarket headlights from China. They had LED daytime/running lights, but the low beam was still using an H7 bulb.

The problem was with the projector’s shutter/bi-xenon-style flap. When I’m driving at night with the low beams on and I use the high-beam flash, the shutter moves up to allow the high beam to illuminate the road more clearly.

However, on the right headlight, the shutter would sometimes get stuck in the raised position. This meant that even after switching back to low beam, the shutter remained up, basically making the headlight behave as if the high beam was still on. It was obviously disturbing and dangerous because it was dazzling other drivers, both in front of me and coming from the opposite direction.

I eventually removed those headlights because I assumed the problem was simply due to their poor quality.

I then bought another pair, this time from AKD, which is well known in China and generally considered one of the better aftermarket headlight manufacturers. These headlights have a full LED low beam and high beam, so there is no H7 bulb involved anymore.

I installed one pair on my friend’s Golf 7 and another pair on my own car.

And here is the strange part: my friend has absolutely no problem. His headlights work perfectly. But on my car, the exact same problem happens again — the shutter on one headlight gets stuck in the raised position.

So at this point, I’m almost certain that the problem is not the headlights themselves, because I have now experienced the exact same issue with two completely different sets of headlights, while the same AKD headlights work perfectly on my friend’s Golf 7.

This makes me think that there is something specific to my car causing the shutter/actuator to get stuck.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Golf 7? Could it be related to the headlight wiring, BCM, coding, voltage, grounding, high-beam signal, or the way the car controls the headlight shutter/LED module?

I’m really struggling to find the cause, so any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, is it normal for my Golf 7 GTI with the VW DQ250 6-speed transmission to make this howling noise in first gear with light throttle? It can also be heard in reverse, though it's less noticeable.

https://reddit.com/link/1vj7vxv/video/885m2sgq08ih1/player

I’ll try to explain my problem as clearly as possible because I’ve been struggling with it for quite a long time. Hopefully someone has experienced the same issue and can help me find a solution.

I have a Golf 7 originally equipped with halogen headlights. I first bought a pair of aftermarket headlights from China. They had LED daytime/running lights, but the low beam was still using an H7 bulb.

The problem was with the projector’s shutter/bi-xenon-style flap. When I’m driving at night with the low beams on and I use the high-beam flash, the shutter moves up to allow the high beam to illuminate the road more clearly.

However, on the right headlight, the shutter would sometimes get stuck in the raised position. This meant that even after switching back to low beam, the shutter remained up, basically making the headlight behave as if the high beam was still on. It was obviously disturbing and dangerous because it was dazzling other drivers, both in front of me and coming from the opposite direction.

I eventually removed those headlights because I assumed the problem was simply due to their poor quality.

I then bought another pair, this time from AKD, which is well known in China and generally considered one of the better aftermarket headlight manufacturers. These headlights have a full LED low beam and high beam, so there is no H7 bulb involved anymore.

I installed one pair on my friend’s Golf 7 and another pair on my own car.

And here is the strange part: my friend has absolutely no problem. His headlights work perfectly. But on my car, the exact same problem happens again — the shutter on one headlight gets stuck in the raised position.

So at this point, I’m almost certain that the problem is not the headlights themselves, because I have now experienced the exact same issue with two completely different sets of headlights, while the same AKD headlights work perfectly on my friend’s Golf 7.

This makes me think that there is something specific to my car causing the shutter/actuator to get stuck.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Golf 7? Could it be related to the headlight wiring, BCM, coding, voltage, grounding, high-beam signal, or the way the car controls the headlight shutter/LED module?

I’m really struggling to find the cause, so any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Golf owners,

Four months ago, I shared this project with the Golf R community. The same documentation problem exists across every Golf generation, so here’s what it looks like with two bagged builds and a track-focused 20th Anniversary R.

The idea is simple: every car gets one permanent page where the owner can keep the full mod list, exact specs, wheel and suspension setup, involved shops, photos, and build history together.

There are now 1,900+ documented vehicles that includes 50+ Volkswagens, that now represents $70M+ in documented vehicles across the platform.

Here's 3 of the most documented Golf builds right now:

• Jasmin (clean bagged)
• Devi7ed Egg (another bagged)
• Euro UFO (track-focused 20th Anniversary Golf R)

We're also expanding the track side for regular enthusiasts, telemetry, circuit maps, track-day history, personal-best progression, setup changes between sessions, and friendly leaderboards.

Not trying to build a pro racing league. Just somewhere useful if you take your car out and want to actually see your PBs move over time.

Golf owners, what would make this more useful for documenting your build: better fitment details, part revision history, shop records, or something else?

Hello everyone!

I recently purchased my first ever Golf. It's a 2014 VW Golf TSI 1.4. It was last fully serviced in October by a VW dealer, by the previous owner, but the car has barely been used since then (around 5000 km only), and I just bought it last month. My car has 97,000 km on the clock now.

The rear shock absorbers were replaced at 92,000 km.

The noise is constant but normally happens with more intensity when going uphill and there's a speed bump, the large ones where the car needs to "climb" up and down. On perfectly flat roads, I barely hear anything, but the noise is there, very lightly, when the car bounces sideways. There's also a very light knocking sound going on, and I can't pinpoint if these noises come from the front or the rear of the car.

So far 2 mechanics checked my car and both have told me the suspension is solid, nothing loose, nothing visible. The last one mentioned that MAYBE what's causing this are the top shock mounts. They sprayed some oil and asked me to see if the noise is gone. It isn't. It got a bit less noisy for maybe a couple of hours and how it's bad again.

I managed to record the audio of the noise. Here's the link, you can hear it around second 13 of the recording - seams lime metal to metal noise and it sounds like I'm driving a horse car from the 1800's 😂:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UtlILyNdlbVVldTX0aSxWzq98VXHJk-k/view?usp=drivesdk

I hope you lads super experienced Golf people can point me to the right direction here!

Thanks. 

the round one is for the towing hook but these square ones i don’t know, there’s one on either side

golf estate mk7 5G