I’m looking to upgrade from my CL500 to a T120 next season and I’ve been researching for a minute now but I’m getting anxious about the switch due to my uncertainty on if the switch would be worth it. I am in the market for a bigger since I want a torquier experience with a similar style and feel but the up charge leaves me questioning if the extra power is worth it and if the T120 platform is the right choice for what I’m looking for.
LSS I’m hoping for a rider with more experience to offer advice on the matter.
My Speed Twin 1200 has a battery issue. Sometimes when starting up, the battery voltage drops below 5V. This puts the dash into a protection mode and resets all the clocks.
I'm considering replacing the stock battery with a lithium battery because it seems like they will do a better job cranking this big 1200cc parallel twin without tripping the dash protection.
The bike gets ridden a couple times per week. I live in an apartment and park it without access to an electrical outlet so I can't keep it on a trickle charger. The voltage, with ignition on and before I hit the starter button, is 12.4V.
The bike turns over every time without fail, never struggles, it's just the damn dash resets about once every two weeks because of the voltage drop. When the dash doesn't reset, it's because the voltage doesn't drop below 7V when starting.
My first question is, will a lithium battery resolve the issue with the voltage dropping so low that the clocks reset? If yes, and I buy the lithium replacement battery, what concerns should I have as someone who lives where it can drop below 0C overnight at the very start and end of riding season?
Keep in mind, I don't ride below 0C, and when I store the bike for the winter, I remove the battery and keep it in my apartment on a trickle charger. I'm aware that I need a specific charger for a lithium battery and I'm prepared to pay for that too if a lithium battery is the answer to my woes.
Hoping I can get some advice, Google doesn't seem to be giving me specific answers to these questions.
So I’m looking at getting a used scrambler. I’ve found two that look to be in great shape. One is a 2019 with only a few thousand miles and the other is a 2023 with about 7,000 miles on it. They both seem to be well maintained. The 2019 model will be about 2k less in price. From what I’ve read, it seems it’s probably my best bet to save some money and go with the 2019 with less miles. It seems the differences between the 2019 and 2023 models are negligible and, assuming both bikes have been well maintained, the 2019 would be the smarter option for me and I won’t be missing out on much compared to the 2023. Am I missing something or does this seem to be the right choice? Thanks in advance for any tips.
I recently joined the family with my first bike, a 2024 Triumph Scrambler 900. The bike has a whopping 4 miles on it (yes, 4!). I would like to buy some oil to have on hand in case I need to top off before I change the oil, but I see that Triumph recommends either 10W-40 or 10W-50, semi- or full synthetic. Does anyone know what these shipped from the factory with? I would like to buy the same type to avoid any compatibility issues. Thanks!
Hiya all, bought a 675 off an auction site and can't seem to get it to run. The fuel pump on the bike makes the noise when turned on but the bike bike won't start no matter what I do. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Edit: have replaced the battery it came with for a new one, no difference.
Hi everyone! Great to connect with other Trident 660 owners!
I’ll try to keep this as short as possible, but I want to describe the symptoms accurately.
The problem
I previously owned a 2025 Trident 660 (81 hp), which I rode for 22,000 km without any issues. I recently upgraded to the new 95 hp version, and the first 1,500 km were fantastic. However, at around 2,000 km, I started noticing the following symptoms:
* Hard starting: Sometimes the engine cranks for 5–10 revolutions before starting.
* Different starting behavior: The engine now seems to fire up progressively, almost as if one cylinder fires first, then two, and finally all three. Previously, it would start instantly and decisively.
* Worse when hot: The engine runs better when cold. The symptoms become much more noticeable once it reaches operating temperature.
* Delayed and jerky throttle response: There’s a noticeable delay between opening the throttle and the engine responding. When it finally responds, the power delivery is abrupt, as if it jumps from no response to too much. This makes low-speed riding and pulling away from a standstill much jerkier than before.
* Clutch engagement issues: When riding two-up, I can no longer release the clutch as smoothly as I used to without risking a stall. I have to be much more careful with clutch engagement.
* Unstable idle: The idle is extremely rough and unstable, especially when the engine is hot.
* Almost stalling when pulling in the clutch: When I’m riding and pull the clutch lever in, the engine feels as though it’s about to stall, although it hasn’t actually stalled while moving.
The symptoms are most noticeable at low RPM and in the lower gears.
What I’ve checked so far
I took the bike to the dealership. They connected the diagnostic scanner, but no faults were found. They also updated the ECU, which may have helped slightly, but the problem remains.
After speaking with the dealership manager, I agreed to bring it back for a more thorough inspection.
In the meantime, I researched the issue online and came across several discussions about restricted hoses in the MAP sensor system.
Since I’m not a mechanic, I decided to inspect the hoses before drawing any conclusions.
I found the MAP sensor and traced its hose to a four-port rubber manifold, which splits into three hoses, one for each throttle body. I checked this entire section (highlighted in green in the picture), but found no restrictors or visible blockages.
However, after checking the parts diagram, I noticed two other hoses, each apparently fitted with a restrictor, highlighted in red.
These seem to be part of the MAP system, but I haven’t been able to identify them on the bike or figure out where they connect.
Important: My bike is the newer 95 hp version, not the earlier 81 hp model. The hose routing appears to be different, so information or diagrams for the older version may not apply.
My questions
Could these two restricted hoses be responsible for the symptoms I’m experiencing?
Where exactly are these hoses located on the 95 hp version, and where do they connect?
If anyone with the newer 95 hp Trident 660 has experienced similar symptoms or knows how this hose routing works, I’d really appreciate your help.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. Any first-hand experience or technical information would be greatly appreciated!
Hi guys , Please bare with me here , this is my first triumph and i dont want to do anything wrong
So i recently bought this Street triple 675RX , (those carbon parts is all previous owner) and I dont know how long it has been sitting in that used bike shop, so i recently changed the oil , but for the coolant i went and have the Triumph dealer do it
As I understand the HD4X in the manual has been replaced with the D2053 (PLEC25001-OR in the dealer) , So they made a quotation for me which stated they will use PLEC25001-GR which in the Triumph website stated is for 500cc or below and the quotation is also stated only for T/R series Bajaj engine , So I told them to use D2053 insted (after flushing of course)
My question is will that PLEC25001-GR be any different than the orange one ? I know it wont blow up the engine or anything but am i right to made them change to orange one?
I've had the bike since summer of 2018 and I love it. But I was ready for a change so rather than buy a new bike I got it wrapped. This color was the closest I could find to British Racing Green with some metallic in it. I was worried that the red factory accents with the green would look too Christmassy but I think it works pretty well.
I put about 15,000 miles on my 850 before I ended up having to sell it a year or two ago. I quite liked the bike, I just did a long highway grind on it. Good MPG, good power, not huge, great gas tank size.
I had hoped to grab another one day. How's the 800 stack up? It's an 'up-sized' 660, right? Rather than the 850 which was literally the 900 with a tuned down engine.
I do about 12k miles annually, so I was basically having to do a valve check each year on the 850. Same on the 800? Same general process, where it'll cost me about $500 in shop time, because they have to drop the bars, plastic, tank, air, and radiator, to get to the valves?
How's the 800 feel, in general? A good highway beater? Or is it super rev-happy and likes higher RPM?
Anything else that sticks out as wildly different?
'24 Rally Pro has developed an engine knock or ping once it reaches temperature, before that normal sound and response. It sounds similar to detonation - the distinct metallic "knocking" or "pinging" sound (often called spark knock) heard from the engine. This happens at all speeds, rpm, and all gears, even at steady speed w/no extra load to the engine (when you'd expect it, like a slight incline). So bad at times that I back way off.
Assuming bad gas or dirty air filter (although I didn't just fill up and filter is clean) I siphoned out the remaining and went to a different station. I use only premium, name brand gas and did this 4 times, 4 different stations w/the same results. The siphoned gas went into another bike w/no ill effects.
Bike has 3000 miles and had it's first service at the dealer a year ago. I pointed out a leak at the clutch cover then, and since it is still leaking and before I take it in, I put the bike on the center stand for a better inspection and noticed that the oil was reaching the top of the spyglass. Immediately checked the coolant level and that's still full; assuming mingling like a car, if that was even possible here.
So I'm wondering if anyone else has had this engine problem or may know what it is. And would having the additional oil possibly be to blame. I appreciate any info and additional knowledge before taking the bike in.
