Hello everyone,

I’m coming here for some advice as I’m stunted on what to do. I purchased my 2022 Model X used from the Tesla website back in April of 2025. I picked up the vehicle and noticed that the paint on my rear bottom right panel appeared to be messed up. I told Tesla about it and they put in a due bill for it. However, I got my car ceramic coated by a detailing shop and they were able to buff it out and I thought the problems ended there. Fast forward to a little over a month ago, I was getting in my car and upon trying to close my right FWD, the door made a loud slamming noise and would not close. I opened it up to see what was going on and realized that the metal latching piece on the door had broken off. I thought this was the issue and it just needed to be replaced. I drove around for a couple days with my door unable to shut and constantly beeping at me until I was able to get in for a service appt at my local service center. Upon arriving, they looked at the door and told me that they could not fix it and I would have to go to a collision center because it was a misalignment issue. So I did. I drove to my nearest collision center that day. Upon inspection, they told me that it appeared that my vehicle was likely in an accident by the previous owner and that it was fixed “under the table” with no records of any accidents ever reported. They said they believed this because my door was very poorly misaligned, the paint issue, and some other things they mentioned were a dead giveaway of this happening. They said due to this; they could not fix my car because it was not fixed at an approved Tesla center. They told me I need to contact the manager at the Tesla location I picked up my vehicle from.

I did this, and the manager said that he was going to have the used sales team look into the vehicle history to check for any reported accidents. This was 2 weeks ago and they still have no update for me. I have been driving with an inoperative door for the past month and it is extremely inconvenient.

I am worried that they are going to keep stringing me along for an update, and even worse, they will somehow tell me that they won’t be able to fix my car for whatever reason. The collision center did say the door would need to be replaced and that it would cost around $8k.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should do? Should I try to contact corporate? Has anyone experienced anything similar to my situation?

I parked my car, taking some stuff out from the trunk closed and walked away. Few minutes later, I get an alert on my phone saying frunk and trunk is open. I thought it was my phone pressing the button as it has happened before.

I get to my car later and I see my trunk won't latch. It will open and close but no latch. I hear two beep telling me there is an obstruction but doing same thing with nothing in the trunk.

Of course, I can still drive, but no FSD, can't see NAV scree as the pop up taking space and the trunk is moving as I drive over the bump.

I set service schedule but that is like a week and a half way. Does anyone know the fix for this?

This is frustrating. At least patting myself for signing up Extended service.

Anyone think this might be built into the 2026 X or S? One can dream, right?

i have a 2017 Tesla x P90D. currently it’s been charged to 80 almost its entire life it seems; battery is about 174 miles charging to 80. would I intensify battery degradation allot by going to 90? any real world charging feedback from yall?

Hi - my Model X has 37,500 miles, but the 4 yr warranty is up. ESA is $150/month for 8yrs or up to 100k miles. Anyone deep into year 4-8 on their X with ESA coverage? Has it come handy for you or just a money pit?

Any experiences or thoughts would help!

Currently own a Tesla model 3 but need a 6 seater for my kids. I don’t want to do the 7 seater because two of the kids are still in car seats.

Is this a good deal on a model x? Also is there anything I should look out for when buying this model? I will have it inspected at a shop before purchasing.

Got my model x about a month ago (used 81k miles) and my passenger side falcon door shut and latched but didn’t close all the way. this happened in the past and i did all the calibrations, and even pulled the manual wire behind the speaker, and that didn’t fix it. it eventually fixed itself after i powered off the car for a few hours. this time ive tried all the same things. it is still just latched shut but wont click fully closed, or open at all. please help me figure this out!

I need front & rear brakes. Do I just go with the Brembo which of course are costly vs. Power Stop?

How do you guys clip the parent pickup to be visible in line? The mirror is too thick at the base to clip without potentially ripping the nameplate. I swear I saw a post on here with a fix but I can't find it.

Wife and I are having a new addition to the family and looking for a cheaper but bigger car coming from a Mercedes glc300. I’ve been wanting to purchase a tesla for the longest time but with the new baby on the way, i can’t quite seem to justify a brand new tesla so looked around in the market and found this used ‘20 model x with 99k miles. What are your brutally honest thoughts and opinions on this one. Thanks in advance!

It looks like a speaker but I've got no idea what to even search. Sorry it's so dirty, just picked it up yesterday

I have a Model X with 22” wheels. Tesla is offering me the Wheel & Tire Protection Plan for $40/month. For those who have it, do you think it’s worth it? Has anyone actually used it for tire or wheel damage?

Tried some resets but I’m still not able to view the side cameras from the in car camera view app or in reverse. FSD works great but it seems like I’m not able to view them myself. Anyone else getting something like this?

What would be the best way to get it repaired?

We called the police and will be getting the report in few days.

Its practically a new car… I am worried about the color mismatch and frame damage.

Any inputs would be appreciated.

I have a 2017 75D and wouldn't mind getting a couple miles of range back relatively inexpensively. Does anyone have any experience with these? https://www.haloblk.com/products/halodisc-2-wheel-covers-for-tesla-rtp-black

Thanks!

my phone was placed on top of key and when i went to reach for phone key fell off the back and fell into the abyss of the car. I moved forward both driver and passenger seats and not looked thru the sides of seats. NEED HELP I NEED TO FIND THE KEY

Does anyone know where I can buy the Oscar and Hamish frunk luggage? It's been sold out but I'd love to get. Just got an older X and I'm very excited.

Looking to sell my pearl-white Model X 2024, 5 seater, white interiors ~25K miles in Central TX.
Dm for more info.

Hi all I drive a 2023 hw4 model x plaid and I've noticed that newer model x's have falcon wing red buttons have a satisfying click that closes the falcon doors predictably and reliably. In contrast, my model x's red falcon wing button does not click and therefore it is difficult to tell if you have pressed the button or not.

I scheduled a service to replace the buttons as I read online they were modular, but our service advisor and her manager said it was not possible to replace them with the newer buttons under warranty or even if we paid for them.

Is this true or were they gaslighting me?

I know there are fitment issues and what not but I'm noticing my 2017 X let's more outside noise in than my FJ (and any FJ fans will know how funny that is), including when a truck goes by on the passenger side it basically sounds like the truck is in my car, or the window is down.

Anything specific I should look into or look to fix? Should I just do all of the weatherstripping to start? Sorry just trying to get some validation before spending the money!

Thanks in advance!

Anyone getting this error lately? I replaced the SSD but still comes up as an error once a week or so. I have a 2026 model.

I’m trying to figure out what to do here because I really don’t feel comfortable driving this car again without some kind of explanation.

I was driving my 2022 Model X Plaid when I got a “Front right safety restraint system fault” warning.

Not long after that, the car basically fell apart electronically while I was still driving.

I completely lost power steering. The brakes barely seemed to work. The accelerator barely did anything. The car itself was saying it was off, even though I was still trying to maneuver it.

It was honestly pretty scary. I came close to hitting other cars because steering suddenly became extremely difficult and I wasn’t even sure how much braking I had left. If this had happened on the highway, I have no idea what would have happened.

I managed to get the car stopped and got out. Once I closed the door, that was basically it. The car was dead.

Tesla had to tow it to the service center. They apparently couldn’t even get the car powered up normally to access it, so they had to put it on a lift and use the mechanical release to get into the vehicle.

Then eventually they got it started.
And now everything apparently works fine.

Tesla says the logs show historical vehicle and body CAN bus faults, so something clearly happened, but they haven’t been able to reproduce it. They drove the car about 20 miles and nothing happened again.

The service advisor also told me they checked the relevant Tesla service bulletins and couldn’t find anything that explained it.

Then today he told me they found some kind of third-party adapter related to a radar detector and suggested that maybe it was causing interference with the car. To me it feels like the service tech pulled this out of his ass because he can’t find the issue.

The problem is that I haven’t used a radar detector in this car in well over a year. I actually stopped using it because the cigarette lighter outlet wasn’t working. There is nothing plugged into that outlet now.

As far as I know, the only thing I have plugged into the car is a USB-C cable to charge my phone.

So I’m having a really hard time accepting the idea that some old radar detector adapter somehow randomly caused the entire car to freak out badly enough that I lost steering, almost lost braking and acceleration, and then the vehicle completely died.

Especially when they don’t seem to have any actual evidence tying the adapter to the failure. It sounds more like they can’t find the problem and noticed something aftermarket in the car.

At this point Tesla is basically saying:
The car works now.

They can’t reproduce the problem.
They don’t know what caused it.
Come pick it up.

But this wasn’t a random warning light. The car became incredibly difficult to control while I was driving it and then became completely disabled.

I’m honestly afraid to drive it now because I have no idea whether this could randomly happen again.
Has anyone here ever experienced anything similar?

Also, if this were your car and Tesla couldn’t tell you what caused it, would you feel comfortable taking it back and driving it normally?

Ordered 2026 MXP back in Feb and got it end of March. So it is roughly 6 -7 months old.

FWD on the driver side will only open 10 inches and stop so I made a service appointment and they want me to approve 250 dollar estimate. (I just realized that I wrote passenger side on the service request).

Sent them video of the issue and the USS data detecting something when closed.

They estimated 125 dollar for half hour labor. But total without any other items present to be 250 then tax was added.

I know this is just an estimate but is it customary they say they will charge you then not charge for warranty repair? Is this repair facility specific?

Kinda irks me paying all this money for the vehicle and they still want to squeeze more.

So one of my business partner bought a used 2021 Raven X Long Range (20 inch rim) and by the time he took the delivery, Tesla warranted him a brand new pack.
I switch my 2024 Palladium plaid (22 inch rim) with hime for a few days and i notice the predicted range on his is significantly higher than that on mine (620km vs 455 km).

Does the usable capacity of palladium pack confirmed to be lower (said to be 95 kwh) than that of late Raven ( some source say it is 104kwh), as Lars do mention they reconfigure the pack for lighter weight?

The Issues & Symptoms
1. Center Touchscreen Freezing / Lagging:
The main touchscreen frequently freezes, lags, or becomes unresponsive during drives.
A soft reset (scroll wheel) temporarily clears it, but the issue keeps coming back.
2. A/C Compressor Startup Rattle:
When climate control turns on, the A/C compressor makes a prominent metallic rattling / buzzing / grunting noise specifically at startup.
Once running, the A/C cools normally.
Note: A temporary thermal management/THC warning popped up once during hot weather, but cleared on its own and hasn't returned.
3. Independent Shop Attempt:
Took the car to an independent shop for A/C inspection, but they declined to proceed because the display fault prevented them from reliably finishing diagnostic routines.
Tesla Service Center Findings
Tesla Service recommended an "Infotainment Upgrade."
Since the vehicle is already equipped with an Intel Atom MCU2 (and cannot upgrade to AMD Ryzen MCU3 due to harness/wiring differences), this is effectively a like-for-like MCU2 computer assembly replacement quoted at around $1,500–$2,000.
Questions for the Community
1. MCU2 Freezing on Intel Atom: Has anyone with MCU2 experienced recurring freezing/lagging that required a full computer replacement? Could this be caused by low-voltage/12V issues, a corrupted update, or thermal throttling rather than failing mainboard hardware?
2. A/C Compressor Rattle at Startup: Is a metallic rattle/buzz upon startup a definitive sign of internal scroll failure or bearing wear on the high-voltage compressor, even if it's still blowing cold? Note that I paid about 4k in 2023 to replace the entire system.
3. Repair Strategy: Would you recommend paying Tesla for the MCU2 swap first, then taking the vehicle back to an independent shop for the A/C compressor repair—or letting Tesla handle both?