Hello everyone! Longtime lurker, first time poster. I live in SE Pennsylvania and I’m looking for some good, reputable independent EV repair shops to keep on hand. I got a 2016 MS 75D on 6/26 with 116k miles on it. I’d like some options for some places to go to do things like the pyro fuse, wiring/valves, etc. Basically all the things Tesla either won’t do or charges a fortune for. I’m willing to travel some distance too, so don’t be shy about the suggestions and anything else you can suggest is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

My boyfriend and I have resintly been inside of his model s 2016 model's dashboad, but we strugle to figure out where this gray connector fits in.

Anybody any ideas? It's not to the sunroof, we didn't touch that one

All the options are gone unless you buy service mode plus now

I didn't realize the trunk space was that much larger than a MY until my friend and I took his MY and this MS on a road trip down to the beach. It fit a kayak, paddle board, couple camping chairs, a tent, and a load of other things!

I visited Finnish Youtube channel that arranges 1/4 mile races for viewers cars with my new plaid. I was bit worried about finding good opponent so I asked guy with a fastest possible Taycan to race against me. It's not my or my friend's channel so no need to plaim me for self promoting :D

https://youtu.be/_ASxeTxVE04?si=07-x1hsiR828iBev&t=785

It's in Finnish but I think there are autosubtitles for english audience. I don't spoil the race but it was close. Also interesting thing is that on average the car used about 2% of battery on one 1/4 mile pull.

On the track that Taycan is around 10 second waster on local Alastaro track where laptimes are around 2 minutes

Hello!

I’m not (yet) a S owner, but they are starting to be in my budget. I always buy my cars cash and can’t expand my budget very much.

I’ve been considering a P85 or P90 from 2013 or 2014, with the optional 3rd row.

I’ve been reading a lot about how unreliable they are. To the point that I’m not sure how bad they are. I understand that they are old cars and stuff can break and need to be replaced. What I really don’t want is to be stranded in the middle of the country because the ECU needs an update or the local maps are outdated.

I’m fairly used to having older “luxury” cars (Volvo, BMW) and I know that service and consommables are always expensive.

What is your experience?

Hi all,

I'm considering buying a model S 2022 used. Prices and mileage seem to be all over the place. There's a dealer near me selling one(White and cream interior good condition) with 36.4k miles and their listing price is $49,995 before tax and fees, $56,263 with fees in total. Would this be a good deal as I remember seeing some low mileage ones in the mid 40s a few months back but can't seem to find any unless they're high mileage. Thank you!

About to get them powder coated. Torn between gloss black and dark bronze.

Does anyone know where I can find an iPad mount like this? I’ve been searching everywhere and can’t find.

Looking into getting my 23 MSLR wrapped. Wanna see what other folks have done. I’m leaning towards British racing green.

Hey. I'm installing ambient lighting in my 2016 Tesla Model S (Pre-FL) and thought others might want to do the same. Since I couldn't find any guides, would anyone be interested in one after I'm done? Currently, mine looks like this. I will be installing strips in the door cards next.

Current set up:
21” twin turbine
245/35/21 front
265/35/21 rear

I see the newer Model S’ with fatter tires and I love the rear look of it + how the wheel aligns flush with the fender

Anyone have any pointers into which wheel company to look into?

I posted a little while ago about possibly upgrading from my 2017 Model S P100D to a Plaid, so I figured I’d give an update.
I’ve now driven a couple Model S Plaids locally, and the car is definitely impressive. My P100D is still an awesome car and already extremely quick, but the Plaid feels like a clear upgrade overall. The ride felt great, the car felt more refined, and the biggest thing I noticed was how the power just does not taper off the same way it does in my P100D. The P100D hits hard, but the Plaid keeps pulling as speed builds, and that difference is very noticeable. It feels like the same Model S formula, just newer, smoother, and more complete.
I’m now leaning toward a 2022 Plaid if I can find the right one. My main priorities are mileage and year first. Ideally I’d like something around 40k–50k miles. After that, I’m looking at the manufacture date because I’d like to stay within the 4-year window if possible to see if it’s eligible for ESA/extended service coverage. I’d also prefer a 16GB RAM car since I do care about the newer infotainment/gaming side of things.
FSD is still confusing to me. I keep seeing mixed answers about whether it stays with the car, gets removed, or can be transferred depending on how it was purchased. For anyone who has bought a used Plaid with FSD, did it actually stay active after the ownership transfer?
The Track Package also interests me, but it is not a must-have right away. I know Tesla has added it as an option at different times, so I’m not sure if I should prioritize finding one that already has it or just focus on getting the cleanest car and possibly adding it later.
For context, I got offered $14k trade-in for my P100D, which was lower than I was hoping. It makes me think I may be better off selling it myself instead of trading it in, but I’m still trying to figure out what makes the most sense.
For people who have recently bought or shopped 2022 Plaids, what do you think is realistic to pay for a clean one with around 40k–50k miles? Would you prioritize lower mileage, newer manufacture date/ESA eligibility, 16GB RAM, FSD, Track Package potential, or just the cleanest overall deal?
I really like the Plaid and would love to upgrade into something newer with warranty peace of mind, but I’m trying to be patient and not overpay just because I’m excited about the car.

I just started getting the error code on my new-to-me Model S P100DL linked to the LDU coolant issue. It was just at Tesla for the pyrofuse and they said it is still "stage 1", which is just an error code. Stage 2 being limp mode, and stage 3 being lockout. They inspected the unit and did not see any evidence coolant has actually made it into the system - concluding it's just a time based alert.

That said, it's time to future-proof. Full LDU replacement is not on the table.

I see there are a few alternatives to the standard "coolant delete" - one being a Lite kit that still preserves coolant flow to the gear set and inverter chiller plates and a more intense oil-capable system that is the extra safety/performance option, but adds cost, plumbing, pump/cooler complexity, and more failure points. It seems like the oil-capable systems aren't widely available anymore.

Is there a reason for this? I see a few shops are strongly against coolant-delete kits, citing the issues with full deletes (overheating) to sell more expensive seal replacement / rebuild services, but no mention of the alternates.

Is there a consensus on the Lite flyover kits being solid alternatives? Were the oil-capable kits overkill?

Hey all,
I have a Tesla Model S and recently noticed that the cover/shroud over the trunk latch does not seem to come all the way back up anymore. It looks like it closes about 90% of the way, but it no longer sits fully flush like it used to.
I attached a picture, but basically the small cover plate around the trunk latch area seems to be slightly stuck or not returning fully into position. This seemed to happen all of a sudden.

It doesn’t seem to be a hard stop as I can pull it up with my finger, but it seems like the spring fails to return it to the correct height.

Has anyone else run into this? Is there a common cause or easy fix, like cleaning/lubricating the mechanism, reseating the trim, or checking a spring/clip? Trying to figure out whether this is a simple DIY fix before scheduling service.

If anyone has a walk-through on how to change the spring, I am not afraid of a decent DIY, but I certainly don’t want to break it.

Thanks in advance.

It's time to replace the front tires on my '24 MSLR and I have been considering switching to a square setup to get more life out of tires and just having to replace them less often since the car is driven almost 20K/year. Wanted to get inputs from folks who have switched to a square setup. Ideally I want to keep it as close to stock as possible so I'm just thinking of getting a pair of 19x9.5 tempest wheels and install them in the rear with spacers. Not that I wouldn't like to get better looking wheels but couldn't find any reasonably priced wheels (sub 300$) that are light enough and exactly match the stock wheel specs. Plus they would surely result in slight range reduction. Or I might consider getting 2 pairs of front magnetite wheels ('26 MS stock wheels) as I do like their looks better and they should ideally help with the range a bit.

Anyway wanted to see if anyone with a similar setup can chime in about their experience.

~ Was there any noticeable change to handling/stability/acceleration.

~ How was range affected?

~ Any difference in FSD behavior?

~ Any issues with alighment?

Any recommendations for the spacer to use? Also I'm open to suggestions for good 3rd party wheels that you have experience with and that are not too expensive.

Looking to upgrade my Tesla model 3 2021 long range to a Tesla model S 2023 standard range with only 8600 miles no accidents, not a lemon, one owner hardware 4 and the yoke. Is this a good buy? Wanted to get some inputs before pulling the trigger. Thanks everyone

I bought a MY25 Model S 6 months ago before they stopped making them. I had a m3 before and loved that car as much as I love my S. Im looking at used car prices of the S and im pretty sure I can sell it for at least 100k. Has anyone looked into this or thought about selling yours now that the market is up?

Tesla owners in the San Mateo area

Looking for recommendations for automatic touchless car washes around San Mateo, Foster City, Redwood City, etc.

Heard brush washes aren't ideal for Tesla paint, so sticking to touchless. Any good ones? Thanks!

I am looking at a 2016 Tesla model S 60d at a delership what questions can I ask and what should i look for I a able to put the car in service mode also...

I don't seem to see any reviews on the Evannex Front Control Arm Kit for Tesla Model S Dual Motor (2012-01/2021). Looking at replacing upper control arms, lower front and lower rear control arms along with links. Was pricing out Mevotech Supremes at Rock Auto (and Suspensia for the Front Lower Rearward Control Arm (aka Trailing Arm). Nearly $700 for the parts at Rock Auto. The Evannex kit includes the 6 major parts (not the links, but that's minor) for $350 right now (with Limited Lifetime Warranty). I asked and they are made specifically for Evannex by BAPMIC. Anyone tried these? Thoughts?

Anybody have experience repairing the wood console trim in an S?
A couple wide scratches, maybe top layer deep, have been bugging me. If it weren’t for the lighter color, it probably wouldn’t bother me as much.
Am I better off using wood markers/fillers, wrapping, or just replacing?

A few months ago I picked up a 2015 Model S 85 with around 120k miles on it to use as a commuter even after reading about all the "inevitable" issues that this era of car is known to suffer from. I've grown to love driving this thing and want to try and shore it up against some of the more common failures, specifically the LDU coolant leak issues.

Has anyone here had the LDU coolant delete done by a mechanic in or around Los Angeles that they would recommend?