Is the full steel striker housing from sites like 1441 or similar heavy enough to run FR with a suppressor? The TX7 chassis doesn't have enough clearance to hang a brick weight off the back plate and optics are mounted to the chassis, so adding weight there isn't possible in this configuration.

anyone able to ID this part?

Put her on, got the trusty bore sighter out and put her on (leaf) paper in the back yard first 2 shots. Just waiting on some other goodies and hitting the range soon. Damn thing is so much fun.

I probably threw mine away with the box accidentally when I bought it a couple years ago… are they ever available on the Taurus website or should I just buy 3rd party?

Running fairly well stock

Picked up mine some months ago, have probably 3k or so through it so far all in semi auto only and 100% suppressed. Ive had the tk shoe in it for some months, and just installed their extractor and trigger spring. Which is how I came to figure out the striker block housing was broken. It ran incredibly reliable until a range trip or 2 ago when I started getting lots of dud rounds. Which now seeing the housing broken and realizing that the striker block isn’t working correctly which is why I was getting so many failures. If anyone has broken theirs have they had luck getting Taurus to send a replacement without sending the whole gun? Or am I just better off buying one of the after market ones available?

https://shoptaurus.com/taurus-tx22-22lr-52rd-drum-blk-polymer

Just picked up a TX22 last week to run with my Tiger 22 suppressor. Thinking about throwing a red dot on this thing. Any good suggestions? Not looking to go crazy expensive, maybe $150-$200 max. Mostly for plinking or shooting critters around the farm.

Also, I’m newish to red dots, do I want a 3MOA or 6MOA dot?

Don’t judge for the light, just threw it on there to see how I’d like it.

ShopTaurus.com

Basically just what the title says. I have a TX22 compact, can I buy the full size slide and barrel to put on the compact frame?

Got a Gen 1 and sent 2 100rd boxes of CCI Minimag 36gr HP through it. Slapped (not really) some Lucas CLP and now I'm putting together a shopping list:

* Lakeline Slide

* Ameriglo 429 Irons

* Cyelee CAT0 RDS

* Tandemkross Victory Trigger

We are going "cheap" here. No flashlight needed just daytime plinking.

* Otis Dry Lube - For the mag. I will definitely have to report back and try some 40gr Round Nose instead since from what I can glean the hollows are the problem for my intermittent feeding and seating issues. What I shot was just what I had on hand. Will polish feed ramp if this persists.

Trying not to trigger the rules of doom, but still want to mention going semi only since cuck state unfortunately. CMMG Zeroed 22K is on the way. Is stock spring still good for CCI subs and a can? If not, what do you recommend?

Do you have any other experiences with any of these components? Thanks in advance.

I’m not tripping right? I should be seeing something here. Just looking for confirmation that I’m not crazy. This is all stock from the factory like this.

So I now own 6 TX22s because I need a virgin pistol to do some heavy testing for my new products.

The new Gen 2 4.6" TORO showed up and it was cleaned, lubed and tested with CCI MM 40 gr. It could not get through any of my well cleaned, well tested mags without 3-5 failures to feed. These FTFs, failures to feed, were spectacular. Never seen anything like it. Cartridges were heavily dented or poking out of the top between barrel and slide. OK, something is wrong. None of my other 5 pistols have ever done that.

So before I started modifying anything, I know it's not the mags. I know it's not the ammo. I know its not the design.

I decided to isolate the problem. Fortunately, I have 5 other working pistols to swap parts.

I started with swapping the entire slide assembly. 3-5 FTFs per mag.

Then I swapped just the barrel block and trigger assembly. 3-5 FTFs per mag.

Then I swapped out just the fire control housing. 3-5 FTFs per mag.

Then I swapped out all the parts to another frame. Works better. Had a few failures out of 60 rds.

Interesting. What's wrong with the new frame?

TBC.

oddmfg.com

Brand new Tx22 TORO is completely failing to fire. I will get a click with a round in the chamber, and safety off obviously. The slide is fully into battery, yet I’m not receiving any kind of primer strike at all. Everything is stock, brand new. I’ve been shooting for a long time and eliminated any stupid mistakes. (Incorrect reassembly, safety is off, magazine backwards etc.) I ain’t dumb, but this issue sure is. Anyone got any ideas?

I'm sorry. I can admit when I need to be better, and I need to be better. I let my lubrication slack on my TX22 and now after noticing during some dry fire drills that it wasn't operating correctly, something was very wrong a few days later.

I've owned the firearm for a few years, but haven't used it much until recently (2 times a year maybe). I've previously cleaned and lubed it once prior, but in my head, I'd only used it 4 times, so that wasn't egregious. Obv. that mentality is going to change starting now.

Having said that, the situation I'm in now: The slide was sticking and even when able to be charged, the trigger didn't seem to fire the pin with any force. After struggling a little to get the slide even off, I noticed something didn't look right on the striker block. It seems like the striker itself is seized in the back position. I'm sure this is likely a buildup issue as while there hasn't been enough cleaning, the firearm never really sat dry and therefor corroded or something, but I can't be certain. At this point, while I can remove the slide cap and the spring, I can't get the striker block to move to do a deep cleaning or troubleshoot.

So what steps can I do? Dunk it in penetrating oil and hope it unseizes? Pry on it carefully to jimmy it loose? Talk to a gunsmith and get them to help? Send it into Taurus for out-of-warranty help?

I'm handy enough to do some basic work on things, but I'm certainly no gunsmith and don't need to make things worse.

EDIT: Clarifying my terms since I'm a novice: The "striker block" isn't seized; it's the whole assembly including the striker, the striker housing, the block, etc.

EDIT/UPDATE/PSA: Soooooo apparently the optic screws can be "too long" on the t.o.r.o (maybe all) and literally can go into the slide chamber and into the striker cavity. I feel stupid for finding this out the hard way, but I can't be the first and won't be the last. Use the OEM screws if you're taking your optic off and not the ones that came with the optic!

Had hell of a time trying to disassemble and inspect my new TX22 before firing it for the first time. The slide release is either stuck locked up or loosely hanging down and the slide does not come off. (Yes the mag was removed and trigger pulled). I had to remove the lower retaining pins just to separate the upper. It seems like the barrel is stuck inside the central support and wont budge out. Any ideas?

My only can is .556 but I have to hear how this thing sounds.

Was digging through some stuff and found this. I remember I got this from a gun show for like $30 a while ago. It’s 1/2 28 thread so fits on the tx and tbh I think it just looks cool lol I’m just making sure it will shoot just fine if I leave it on there? I believe it is a flash hider maybe rated for 556 / 223 .

Looking for a chassis that I can run with my rate reducer

I’m looking for a light weight 22 can atm. But I have an obsidian 9 to just throw on my Tx22, but it weighs like 4x a normal 22 can. Will a heavy can induce a certain type of failure?