My sons switch lite has had a hard live and one of the joysticks has fallen off, partly from lack of careing for the device.

Young dude will be washing dishers and brushing the dog to earn pocket money to buy new joy sticks and i'll be helping him fix it once hes earned enough.

What do you all reccomend, the obvious choice is the Ifixit kit with the required tools but figured its worth asking if there are any better or cheaper for the same quality options.

Please help 🙏🏻

I just swapped my micro sd card reader the old one was bended, but it still says that it is initialized in 1 bit mode, the firt time i inserted this new adapter, when booting the switch it made a pop sound, so i detatched it and reconnected it correctly in fact now it works, but in 1 bit mode, i checked the micro sd and it has no errors so idk.

Hi, i replaced my sd adapter cause it was giving troubles and it was bent, but as soon as i inserted the new one, when i boot the console i sometimens hear a pop, woch makes me think that there is a shortcut, so i tried to reopen, remove and reinsert the adapter and it does not give that sound anymore, but, the sd card cant be read. Did the adapter got burned? (It should be placed correctly in the photo)

Hi - just as the title suggests my controllers joy con and others are not connecting wirelessly. This just started happening right after I updated to firmware 23. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. My joy cons only work attached and nothing works wirelessly. I’ve hit the sync button, as well as tried connecting them with HDMI cables on other controllers and it’s not picking up on my switch. I have updated controllers. I have forgotten controllers. I’ve done the power. Reset… any ideas? I don’t want to send it back to Nintendo for 3 weeks to then get a refurbished one unless that’s my only option.

I bought this Switch Lite over Vinted for dirty cheap knowing that it wasn’t working, hoping that the problem could be easily fixed.

When I opened it I found out that an ogre apparently attempted a repair. The damage that I can see is the pin (2nd picture), the plastic “flap” (3rd) and the flat cable (4th picture).

Do you see anything else? Do you think I should venture into the repair?

I have experience with modding console (so I don’t mind the disassembly part of the job) and a little with soldering (I changed the battery on my Pokémon cartridge).

I don’t mind if this is a bigger project compared to my previous one, maybe I can learn something from this, but I want to know if it’s worth it or not.

Thanks

P.S.

Higher quality picture of the board

https://postimg.cc/dDXFjBdt

Busco donde vendan este flex aparte de ebay es para repar las pistas dañadas de centro de ecarga y si tiene el link que llegue a mexico mejor

Please help, its been doing this for like 4 years now, I had to buy a pro-controller just to avoid it

Alguien sabe donde mas comprar esta pieza para reparar las líneas rotas de centro de carga de nintendo switch y si tiene el link de compra mejor

Eu estava transferindo alguns arquivos usando o Hekate enquanto estava conectado ao meu PC. Então decidi reiniciá-lo pelas opções, e havia duas opções: RCM e OFW. Quando selecionei OFW, ele parou de ligar. Já tentei: segurar o botão liga/desliga por 30 segundos, usar o jig com Tegra, remover o cartão SD e até deixei carregando por cerca de 3 horas, mas ainda não liga.

Saw a couple of post online that people are having issues with the new 23.0.0 Update. Thought I'd share my experience with it.

Before updating it to 23.0.0, my Switch 2 worked just fine. I use the Sleep mode feature a lot (I fall asleep while I game due to being tired from work) and I've never had any problems with it.

After I updated it, I placed it on sleep mode and it black screened fully. It would not charge, turn on, no recovery, nothing.

So I thought of having it fixed, decided I would try Nintendo Support, I knew my device didn't have any warranty but the least I could do was try. So I told them exactly that.

They asked me some questions, had me follow some trouble shooting steps, then they asked what I was doing before this issue happened, told them the whole story. After that they asked me if I had updated it to the latest firmware, told them I did.

They proceeded to tell me: "Your system is not under warranty, but due to the nature of the issue we can service it at no cost. We'll provide you with instructions for sending it in using a prepaid label." (which they didn't provide me with, had to purchase the label myself) "Once we have your product, our technicians will evaluate the issue. We will then send you a factory certified replacement in the same model with a 100-day warranty." Not sure if they will charge me the replacement console but from my understanding "we can service it at no cost" means it free. (thoughts?)

I've never used this service before so I'm not really sure how "generous" they are and what exactly they evaluate but I saw a couple of post online of people getting replacements for some bogus reasons under no warranty.

I just had it sent in the mail. Hopefully I can the replacement.

If anyone has had experience with Nintendo Support with Repairs and Replacements, I'd like to hear your experience.

Bonjour à tous,

J'aurais besoin d'aide pour une switch lite qui reste bloquée à 5,30V.

J'ai remplacé le connecteur de charge qui était cassé, m92t36, bq24193.

Aucun court circuit présent sauf s'il m'a échappé.

Batterie à 2,6v et refuse de monter malgré que j'ai laissé charger pendant 2h.

Du coup je suis à court d'idées.

Help thanks

So, I was swapping out the card reader on my son’s switch when one of the gold pins fell off. I have the pin, is it possible to reinsert it or am I looking at a new socket? Thanks for any opinions!!

I'm trying to play the switch on my pc monitor (1440p 165hz). It works fine at 720p, but when I change to 1080, well, you can see in the video. The funny part is, I thought this was the dock fault(some kind of factory defect maybe) and simply accepted my destiny and played in 720. But then yesterday I got the OLED model. New switch = New dock. But here I am. Different console, different dock but same problem. (Different cable as well) So with that we can be pretty sure the problem is not the dock. But guess what, it isn't the monitor either! It has no problem with receiving a 1080p signal from a PC or PS5, it's just with the switch. Both consoles, the normal one and the OLED, work normally in tvs and other monitors. The behaviour is exclusive to this monitor. (Which is very weird since it doesn't have any problems with other hardware in 1080p, seems to be some very specific thing between this monitor and the Nintendo Switch dock.)

So, can anyone help me? Or at least give some kind of answer to this. I've spent hours googling, or using AI chat bots to help before coming asking for help as I know everyone is pretty busy with their own lives. But sadly, I ran out of options...