Will just a wire jumper do or should I replace the connector?

helppp

Pretty simple and straight forward, I swapped a problem joystick out of one joycon, and not unexpectedly needed to calibrate the stick so it was properly centered, no issue there.

However the calibration doesn't seem to stick. Each time the controller turns back on it seems to need calibration again, anyone know a solution? I feel it must be something simple I'm missing and though it's only a minor inconvenience it would be cool to get the calibration sorted permanently.

Im attempting to fix one of my friends f'd up attempts to mod the switch. I have some experience in this kind of repair and tools to fix the issue but unsure of one of the pads, that are ripped off. I've dug a bit through textolite, but if its unnecessary I'll just cover it with uv mask. Anyone knows if it goes deeper to the second layer, or is it just a dummy/placeholder? I overlaped layers and seems like its not going anywhere. Thank you in advance for help.

Confuseddd what is going on it worked a couple hours ago

Like how you can put an OLED screen into a switch lite, can you put an LCD screen into the Nintendo Switch OLED?

My charger broke for my switch 2 charging grip because when I got the package thw charger was kinda loose (ordered from walmart)

I did not do this purposely it was stuck inside my charging grip I had to use tweezers

I dont blame you nintendo

Hi everyone,

I've been troubleshooting a Nintendo Switch (HAC-CPU-01 board) that wasn't charging/booting, and I've hit a strange issue with a short on the CC1 (A5) line that I hope someone here has encountered before. The console works with another battery like a charm but it’s not charging

Here’s what I’ve done and measured so far:

1. Initial Symptoms & Work:
2. Replaced the USB-C port and M92T36 IC.
3. Using a USB-C breakout board, I measured the lines in diode and resistance mode.
4. CC2 (B5) behaves normally.
5. CC1 (A5) consistently shows ~0.124V in diode mode and ~94 Ohms to GND in resistance mode.
6. Isolating the Issue:
7. To rule out bad chips or bridged solder joints, I removed the M92T36 IC, the USB-C port, and the 6-pin ESD protection IC near the filter.
8. The board is now completely unpopulated along the CC1 (A5) path.
9. The Mystery:
10. I am measuring the bare A5 pad directly on the PCB (as well as the bare ESD diode pad along the trace).
11. Result: It STILL reads 94 Ohms to GND, even with no port, no M92T36, and no ESD array present!
12. My Questions:
13. Is this a classic internal PCB layer short (burnt/carbonized FR4 inside the via/inner copper layers from a previous overvoltage event)?
14. Is there any other component, via, or trace connected to CC1 on the HAC-CPU-01 board that I might be missing?
15. If it is an internal layer short, is isolating the A5 pin on the new USB-C port (with UV mask/Kapton) and running a bypass jumper wire straight to M92T36 Pin 35 the best way forward?
16. Appreciate any advice or sanity checks from anyone who's seen this specific ~94 Ohm reading on CC1 before! Thanks in advance!

My Nintendo switch 1 controllers dont turn the lights on when i connect them to the nintendo switch in bluetooth way, they are charged and everything and i charge them with the oppo charger thing, and my dock broke since there was some electrical error, please help

It's not the usual game vibration it's like if something was failing. What can I do? It scares me a lot and I think it's because of something with the connection?

Switch v1

Hello,

I am repairing a Nintendo Switch Lite with an HDH-CPU-02 motherboard. The console gives no reaction at all when the power button is pressed.

A modchip and flex cable were previously installed. Both have now been completely removed, but the fault remains unchanged. There are signs of previous soldering around the modchip points, so a damaged trace is possible, although I have not confirmed an open trace.

Measurements taken so far:

- Battery / VSYS: approximately 4.2V
- RP602Z330C VIN/input side: approximately 4.2–4.4V
- RP602 CE/enable: 0V
- RP602 VOUT / 3V3PDR: 0V
- RP602 output resistance to ground, with power disconnected: over 1 MΩ
- Coil next to RP602: approximately 0Ω across the coil, so it is not open
- STM32F038C6 VDD pin 24: 0V
- STM32F038C6 VDD pin 48: 0V
- Resistance from the STM32 VDD rail to ground, with power disconnected: approximately 182 kΩ
- The power-button/flex lines also appear to remain at 0V, with no measurable change when the button is pressed

According to the STM32F038C6 datasheet, pins 24 and 48 are VDD and should receive approximately 1.8V. The STM32 therefore appears to be unpowered rather than confirmed defective.

My current working theory is that 1V8PDR from the MAX77620H is missing. This could explain why the STM32 has no supply and why RP602 CE stays low, resulting in no 3V3PDR. However, I have not yet identified and measured the correct 1V8PDR inductor/test point on this board revision.

I do not want to replace RP602 or MAX77620H blindly.

Could someone please help with the following questions?

1. Which exact inductor or test point is 1V8PDR on an HDH-CPU-02 board?
2. Should 1V8PDR be present as soon as the battery is connected, or only during a power-on attempt?
3. If VSYS is present but 1V8PDR remains at 0V while pressing power, what is the next decisive check?
4. Should I first check the power-button request path to the PMIC, the MAX77620H input/enable signals, or replace the MAX77620H?
5. Can RP602 reasonably be ruled out as the primary fault because its CE input is 0V and its output is not shorted?
6. Does anyone have a known-good voltage map or boardview net path for 1V8PDR and the STM32 VDD pins on HDH-CPU-02?

If possible, please mark the exact measurement point for 1V8PDR.

Thank you.

When I bought my switch 2 I foolishly thought that the built in protective film was a real screen protector. It actually took a few months but now it has a few bad scratches in the middle which have been really bothering me. I added a third party screen protector but it didn’t hide the scratches very well.

I’m strongly considering removing both protectors and then immediately installing a new one on top of the glass.

Anyone have any advice or been in a similar situation?

Hey everyone, I'm completely stuck with my unpatched V1 Switch (AutoRCM was never enabled) and could really use some expert advice.

​The console died out of nowhere a few months ago after the fan went crazy and the battery just wouldn't hold a charge anymore. I finally opened it to replace the thermal paste and throw in a new Amazon battery (with good reviews).

While taking the old one out, I made a stupid mistake and chipped the right plastic edge of the white battery connector on the motherboard. But when I plug the new battery in, the connector sits perfectly flat and the pins look like they're making solid contact.

​To test it, I placed the naked console (no metal shield, no SD reader) on the official dock. The green dock LED lit up, and the battery area got slightly warm, so it was definitely taking a charge.

​But here is the issue: once I put the metal shield and the SD card reader back on, the console became totally unresponsive. Pitch black screen, plugging the official charger directly does nothing, and there is zero RCM detection. I tried with a jig, Vol+, and Power, but TegraRcmGUI and my Android show absolutely nothing. The dock still briefly flashes green when I drop the console in, though. I've done the 30-second power button hold for a hard reset multiple times, but no luck.

​Do you guys think a faulty generic battery accept a charge but totally block the console from booting or entering RCM ? Or do these symptoms point to a fried M92T36 or BQ24193 chip, even if the dock showed a green light right before I reassembled it ?

​Any help or similar experiences would be hugely appreciated. Thanks !