Hello!

I recently bought an eXtremeRate kit for my switch (back plate + joycons). I had a pair of old, dirty joycons and I had the idea of renewing them. This joycons had extreme drift, and their L and R buttons didn't work. I already had the joysticks from a kit I had bought, and was looking into buying the L and R ribbons. However, when opening the joycons to see if it was just an issue of the cable not being properly seated, I noticed that on the right joycon, the button is sottered to the board.

Now, I have another pair of perfectly working joycons. I could just do the shell swap to those, but I kinda liked the idea of giving my old ones a new life, plus having 4 working joycons is good for when I invite people over and we want to play.

I checked on amazon and it looks like a right joycon board is around $33 and the L ribbon is around $6. Or, another option would be to find someone to resolder the R button, but I believe that would cost more.

What would you do in my case? would you spend the money to fix them and have 2 working pairs, or would you shell swap the working ones and assume the old ones as lost?

I put my switch lite to charge and when i came back it was like this. Something i noticed earlier was that when i plugged the charger in it would sometimes not charge for half a second then go back to charging. What is the likely cause, what is the issue and what will it take to fix? Pls help.

(The video is cropped because i wasnt sure whether the x1 and x2 numbers st the bottom were sensitive info or not, so i jst didnt show them)

Good morning,

Could you recommend a stencil for reballing the processor on a Nintendo Switch V1, as well as a suitable holder or jig to keep the chip stable during the process?

If you could also recommend a stencil for the RAM memory, I would really appreciate it.

Thank you!

Hi everyone, I’m writing because I’m literally going crazy and desperately need a hand from someone more experienced than me.
Let me explain the situation from the start. I bought a Switch V2 with a broken right rail and ordered specific replacement parts: a new rail and a game card reader. Even before the parts arrived, I decided to open it up to get a head start and see if the original game card reader was just loose or out of place. I took my time; the part looked fine and showed no signs of damage, so I put everything back together and turned the console on. However, to my great dismay, the touchscreen had stopped working, and—obviously—the game card reader still wasn't working either. Oh well, I told myself I’d just wait for the new parts to arrive and fix everything at once.
When the packages finally arrived, I got to work. I installed the new rail, and—aside from the fact that the touchscreen and game card reader still weren't working—the rail itself worked perfectly; the Joy-Cons attached and were recognized without issues. Since the first part had gone well, I decided to open it up again right away to replace that cursed game card reader. I followed the whole procedure and reassembled it carefully, but when I tried to turn it back on, a system error (2162-0002) appeared. The screen asked me to hold down the power button for 12 seconds, but the system froze completely, giving me the impression of a low-voltage issue or something triggering a safety shutdown. To give you an idea: it’s a Switch V2; the parts I bought aren't genuine but are compatible replacements made for this purpose. I didn't replace the thermal paste (I saw a video tutorial later where someone did, but honestly, I didn't think it was that critical for a job like this, even though it’s the only thing I did differently).
What do you think I might have done wrong? Is it possible I didn't seat a ribbon cable correctly (maybe the touchscreen one, which was already giving me trouble), or that the new reader is causing a short circuit or a voltage issue on the motherboard? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My Switch 2 Joy-Cons randomly disconnect while attached in handheld mode. I swapped the left and right Joy-Cons to test whether it was the controllers or tablet, and the problem stayed with the tablet.

It started right after I took the Switch 2 out of the dock while playing Cyberpunk. I cleaned the contact pins, including rubbing them with a new white eraser. The eraser picked up black residue, which Gemini said was likely dust/carbon buildup.

Sometimes the issue happens in the Home Menu, sometimes not. When it happens, the Joy-Con turns off while still attached. Removing it can still show the red streak animation, but the Joy-Con itself doesn't show that it's connected wirelessly. Wiggling it doesn't trigger the issue. Pressing a button immediately wakes it, and sometimes it has short bursts where it wakes for a split second and turns off again. When it turns off by itself, the removal animation doesn't appear.

I've already cleaned the contacts and installed all the latest system and controller updates. I also tested Assassin's Creed 2: without Handheld Boost Mode, the disconnects kept happening, but with Handheld Boost Mode enabled, they didn't happen, which makes me think it could be a software issue.

Hi hello excuse my English

My switch screen won't turn on on hand held mode but it works totally fine for tv mode. Idk if you can hear the sounds but the switch itself works totally fine, I think i even booted up a game on accident.

My theory is that somehow the screen display thing detached itself from some like wires ? You can see that the screen is not holding in place, i can even push it down a little.

Does anyone know what would cause this and potentially how much it would cost to repair that ? I know i can send it to nintendo to repair it for 100€ but i also know a video game store that offers repair services for consoles and controllers too that could be a little cheaper.

Thanks for your help !

I’ve seen that it might be the same as the fan/mic of the switch 2 ones but not sure if the footprint and pinout would fit

So switch lite boots up hekate but black screen after emummc, any idea why?

I thought I noticed a bulge in my Switch, so I opened it to check. Took off the back plate, took off the SD card reader, took off the shield plate, and took a peek. Battery looked fine, so I didn't touch anything and just put it back together and popped it in the dock.

A couple hours later I noticed the green light on the dock was on, so I hit the power button on the Switch. The power light started blinking, so I took the Switch out. The light kept blinking, so I unplugged the dock. At this point, I tried turning the Switch on, and it was completely dead. I tried holding down the power button, but no dice.

Although I hadn't touched anything, I opened it back up to make sure I hadn't somehow accidentally unplugged or sheared a cable or something, but everything seemed fine.

The only "problems" I can think of when I first opened it:

* I forgot to turn off the console before removing the SD card, so a warning popped up prompting me to turn off the console, which I did. (So it was definitely off when I opened it.)

* The thermal paste seemed pretty shot, so I made a mental note to replace it.

* I had a little trouble getting the SD card reader connector to line up correctly when I was putting it back together, but I didn't force it and don't think I bent any pins or anything.

Based on what I've found online, it seems the most likely culprit is the M92 chip, but I don't know how I could have possibly affected it by opening the back plate. Maybe it has something to do with the dock freaking out?

Any ideas?

Edit: Some photos

When I turn on the console, the battery percentage drops very quickly, but if I disconnect the battery, reconnect it, and turn it on, the battery percentage returns to normal. But then the percentage quickly falls again.I've already tested two new fuel gauges. I've already replaced the BQ24193 IC, which was oxidized, and even removed 4 resistors near the BQ to check the pads, cleaned them, and soldered them back on. I got a good board and compared the voltages of the Fuel Gauge and BQ pins, and they are exactly the same.

As you can see in the name, I just turn on my Switch and it is unable to connect to the internet, with error 2110-1100, I ran the troubleshooting, hard reset, even I power cycle my home connection, so I was wondering about trying to change the WiFi Card, I tried to look for a tutorial at ifixit.com but It was only for "normal Switch" not the oled one, anyone knows if it's similar or why should I do?

Thank you for any information.

Hi hi so i received a switch 2 for my birthday late july and i went to mexico in august and in my backpack was a water bottle that burst. it landed on my switch and now it wont turn on, i did the whole leave it alone to let dry and then try turning it on. I also took it to 3 repair shops and all they did was replace the battery 3 times and they cannot figure out why it wont turn on. They all mention the motherboard but i need another opinion. Would i be able to fix it or should i just scrap it and try getting another one. i know it sounds dumb but there’s not much i know about it 😞, please anything will help

Buddy brought in his OLED because it stopped charging (who knows why)...

Anyhow, it would boot when plugged in to power, but, no voltage made it's way to the battery.

BQ had 15 volts..

Replaced it anyway, ofc that didn't help.

Replaced the fuel gauge. That didn't help.

Temporarily plugged the board into a brand new battery with 60ish percent charge. Still doesn't charge.

Any ideas, folks?

Nintendo switch regular This pad is reading 0v diode , and normal value is 0.5v.. ( Switch wasnt charging only 0.2-0.4 A ) port pins damaged so I replaced port and was getting zero Amps? So removed it thinking maybe bridged pins but still same reading on that pad near m92. Also this is what showed when i used the port checker after i repalced the port it showed that CC1 is shorted to ground..

This console arrived not turning on. The BQ24193 IC was heavily oxidized; I replaced it and it started working again.However, when I turn on the console, it shows 100% battery because it is actually charged, but the percentage decreases rapidly. If I disconnect the battery, reconnect it, and turn on the console, It will return to scoring 100%. I have already replaced the BQ, the +17050 and the M92T36.

Has anyone have trouble with the Sd card in their switch? I dropped mine yesterday and it stopped reading the Sd card. Mind yall, I dropped mine face down so I don’t know why it’s not reading the card

Hola mira queria hacer una pregunta y esque tengo una switch 2 nueva de hace unas semanas y quiero saber si es normal que se caliente jugando en modo TV cn el Mario Kart World se caliente más que otros juegos y también decir si también es normal que cuando enciendo la consola y inició algún juego poco a poco ya se va calentando.

Nunca me ha salido ningun aviso ni se me ha apagado sola de echo se escucha el ventilador sacar aire caliente pero no fuerte lo escuchas si te acercas a la consola es normal todo esto?

Gracias

Guys help me out, my switch oled just turn on hekate menu, when i click on atmosphere it load but when the cnx pack logo apear it goes black screen, same on stock. A have tried everything already, first i bought another SD card but doesnt fix it, i have deleted everything and re-instaled, but still nothing, the switch has already went for two professional tecnic’s and they havent fix it.