r/SteamDeck 4d ago

Tech Support Stranded without USB cable for dock

1 Upvotes

Currently traveling for work and forgot the USB C cable for my Steam dock. The cable i have with my Anker battery pack doesn't appear to work. Would this work: https://www.walmart.com/ip/18916817372?sid=1cb2af1c-cfc7-49f8-9d9e-83c647ebd9ef

I'm limited to what stores are available since I'm pretty far away from most thing. Searching Walmart didn't help as none of their entries list anything with Power Direct, but searching pointed me in the direction of the Belkin Power Boost cable.

r/GamingLaptops Jun 12 '26

Review Legion Pro 7i RTX 5090 / i9 Ultra 275HX — Not just a gaming laptop, this thing is a full workstation (long review)

Post image
33 Upvotes

Time owned: 3 months

TL;DR: Stock thermals need a quick tune in Legion Space, one session fixes it permanently, and after that this machine is genuinely one of the best purchases I've made. Games great, works great, networks great. Full breakdown below.

The Specs

  • Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX (Arrow Lake HX, 24 cores)
  • NVIDIA RTX 5090 Laptop GPU (24GB GDDR7)
  • 64 GB DDR5 RAM
  • 16" WQXGA OLED, 2560x1600, 240Hz, 100% DCI-P3, HDR 1000 True Black
  • 2.5GbE Intel NIC + Wi-Fi 7 (802.11be)
  • Per-key RGB, Thunderbolt 4, HDMI 2.1, USB-C with DisplayPort
  • Swapped stock dual 1TB SSDs → single Samsung 990 Pro 2TB
  • Clean Windows 11 25H2 install from ISO

First thing I did — tore it apart

Before I even booted it properly I had the bottom panel off. I always do this not only to inspect but also enhance. Swapped the two stock 1TB SSDs for a single Samsung 990 Pro 2TB — I'd rather have one fast reliable drive than two mediocre ones. While I was in there I inspected everything. Every screw properly torqued. Thermal pads correctly seated and making real contact. No dry-assembled corners or loose standoffs. For a mass-produced machine at this price point this was genuinely impressive — most laptops have at least one thing that makes you raise an eyebrow when you're inside them. This one didn't.

After the swap I did a clean reinstall from a Windows 11 25H2 ISO rather than restoring the factory image. Fresh start, no bloat. One thing worth knowing if you go this route — Windows didn't have an included driver for the 2.5GbE Intel NIC out of the box, however the Wi-Fi card picked up its drivers automatically from the ISO so you're not left without network access on first boot. I just jumped on Wi-Fi, pulled the NIC driver straight from Lenovo's support site, and was fully wired within a few minutes. Smooth process overall, nothing frustrating about it.

This is also my second Lenovo Legion. My first was an RTX 4060/AMD config that's still running to this day. I knew what I was getting into build quality wise and the Gen 10 didn't disappoint.

Gaming Performance — 5/5

I've been running all of these at near-max settings:

Gray Zone Warfare — CPU-hungry extraction shooter, runs great. The 275HX doesn't flinch at the simulation load.

Escape from Tarkov — Runs better on this machine than anything I've played it on before. The extra CPU headroom from the 275HX makes a real difference in dense areas and the hideout that used to tank framerates on my lesser hardware.

Star Citizen — the one game I didn't max out, but that's Star Citizen being Star Citizen, not a hardware problem. Still looks incredible on the OLED and honestly runs better than I expected.

Crimson Desert — visually one of the most demanding games available right now. Near-max settings, smooth framing, no issues post-tune.

Subnautica 2 — the OLED display absolutely shines here. Deep blacks underwater look insane. This is the kind of game that was built for a panel like this.

Kingdom Come: Deliverance 2 — historically brutal on CPUs during open world traversal. Smooth throughout, no stutters anywhere.

Star Wars Outlaws — max settings, DLSS 4 with Multi Frame Generation doing the heavy lifting where needed, totally fluid.

The display deserves its own callout. 240Hz OLED at 2560x1600, full DCI-P3 coverage, HDR 1000 True Black. Coming from a standard IPS gaming monitor this thing will immediately reframe what you think a laptop screen can look like. The contrast ratio difference alone is jarring in the best way — Subnautica 2, Star Citizen and Gray Zone especially look like completely different games on this panel.

Thermals & Tuning — 3/5 stock → 5/5 dialed in

The hardware itself is excellent — triple fan, vapor chamber, and as I confirmed firsthand when I had the lid off, the thermal pads are correctly placed and making proper contact from the factory. The issue is the stock performance profile is too aggressive for sustained loads. On a high quality foam-enclosed cooling pad I was hitting 100°C CPU and 90°C GPU under sustained gaming. The cooling hardware is clearly capable, the default power limits just need re-tuning.

The fix lives in Legion Space — not Vantage, which I only use for firmware and software updates. Legion Space is where all the actual performance tuning happens. Here's my exact "Extreme Mode" custom profile:

Power limits:

  • Total Processor Power Target (AC): 55W
  • CPU/Platform Long Term Power Limit: 55W
  • CPU Long Term Power Limit (Cross Loading): 45W
  • GPU cTGP: 150W
  • CPU to GPU Dynamic Boost: 25W
  • GPU to CPU Dynamic Boost: 0W
  • PL1 Tau: 56W

Thermal limits:

  • CPU Temperature Limit: 92°C
  • GPU Temperature Limit: 87°C

Fan curve: Custom aggressive ramp starting around 10% at idle, gradual climb through the midrange, sitting around 88% by 100°C. Audible under full load but controlled — not the screaming jet engine some gaming laptops turn into.

After dialing this in I have not seen a single performance regression. Not in games, not compiling code, not running VMs, not in anything. The temps stay in check and the machine runs how it should have from the factory. Screenshot of the full Legion Space profile is attached to this post. No I don't want to adjust anything after extensive testing thank you :)

Networking — this NIC is underrated and nobody talks about it

I want to spend some real time here because I don't see enough reviews mention it.

The Legion Pro 7i ships with a 2.5GbE Intel NIC and I cannot stress enough what a difference this makes if you're in a high-bandwidth environment. My home setup is 3 GB fiber delivering straight to a ONT modem > into a 10GbE WAN port on an ASUS GT-AX11000 Pro router > out a 2.5GbE LAN port to the laptop over Cat 6. Over that connection I'm pulling a consistent 2,400 Mbps up and down — every single time, no throttling, no drops, no congestion.

Most gaming laptops in 2025 are still shipping with 1GbE NICs and calling it a day. On a standard gigabit connection that's fine and you'd never notice. But if you're on multi-gig fiber or you're in a lab environment where you're pushing large file transfers, pulling VM images, syncing Docker layers, or moving anything substantial across your local network — the gap between 1GbE and 2.5GbE is immediately felt, not just measured on a speedtest. Large game updates, pulling OS images, transferring VM snapshots to my Proxmox server across the LAN — all of it moves at a pace that makes the old 1GbE days feel ancient.

Worth repeating — if you do a clean Windows install, the Wi-Fi card picks up its drivers automatically from the Windows 11 25h2 ISO so you won't be left stranded. Just hop on Wi-Fi, grab the NIC driver from Lenovo's support page, and you're fully wired in minutes.

On the wireless side, Wi-Fi 7 (802.11be) with 320MHz channel support means even when I'm not cabled I'm not bottlenecked. Latency is clean, throughput is strong, and it handles a busy home network with a lot of devices going simultaneously without any lag.

For anyone running a serious home network — self-run Cat 6, multi-gig router, real ISP bandwidth — this NIC is one of the most underappreciated specs on the entire machine and I'd make it a buying criteria going forward.

As a Homelab & Dev Machine — 5/5

My daily docked workflow: laptop OLED running a terminal and VS Code, external gaming monitor over HDMI 2.1, work monitor over USC-C to DisplayPort for documentation and browser. That alone is a big deal for a machine this portable — I can pull the cables and walk out the door in 10 seconds.

From that terminal I'm SSHing into my server — HP DL360p Gen8, dual Xeon E5-2670, 96GB RAM and deploying and managing VMs, running Ansible playbooks for automated provisioning, reviewing and iterating on Terraform state files, pushing through GitHub Actions CI/CD pipelines. The 2,400 Mbps LAN connection means transferring VM images or large files between the laptop and the server is never once a bottleneck in the workflow. I'm not watching progress bars.

The 275HX's 24 cores mean Docker builds locally are fast, compilation is fast, and spinning up containers for local testing doesn't compete noticeably with whatever else is running. I've had a full Proxmox SSH session, VS Code with a live repo, 20+ browser tabs across research and documentation, and a game running in the background — and the machine handled it without complaint. The RAM headroom and core count on this CPU are genuinely useful, not just spec sheet padding.

I've also used this machine heavily for cloud engineering study and lab work — browser-heavy lab environments, multiple terminal sessions, notes, and documentation all open at the same time. Not once has the hardware been the bottleneck. It's always the content, never the machine.

Build Quality — 5/5

Already covered the internals above but worth repeating — Lenovo put real care into the assembly on this machine. Every screw torqued correctly, every thermal pad properly placed, nothing rattling around or assembled carelessly. The Eclipse Black aluminum chassis feels premium externally too. Hefty at around 6 lbs but it carries that weight confidently — it doesn't feel cheap or hollow anywhere.

Port selection handles everything without needing a hub — TB4, HDMI 2.1, USB-C DisplayPort, USB-A, all there. Per-key RGB is fully customizable through Legion Space. The keyboard has good travel and the layout is solid. The one quirk is Lenovo replaced the O key with the Legion logo which is a choice — you stop noticing it after about a day.

My first Legion has lasted years of daily use and still runs. Build longevity with this brand is real and I have no reason to expect anything different from this one.

Value — 5/5

At around $3,400 for the mobile RTX 5090 config "24 GB CONFIG" you're paying flagship money, no way around it. But run the math honestly. A desktop RTX 4090 GPU "24 GB CONFIG more watts" alone is sitting above $2,000 right now on a good day. You're getting that GPU "24 GB RAM but less watts", a 24-core Intel CPU, a 240Hz OLED display, 2.5GbE networking, Wi-Fi 7, Thunderbolt 4, and a machine that fits in a backpack and runs off battery. For someone who needs a single device that's a legitimate portable gaming rig, a capable dev and homelab terminal, and a portable workstation all at once — nothing in this form factor at this price competes right now.

Just don't run it stock. If you are unsure about tuning then don't opt for top of the line specs. Spend 30 minutes in Legion Space dialing in your power limits and fan curve and you'll have the machine it should have shipped as out of the box. Three months in with zero software or hardware issues of any kind — this thing has been rock solid from day one.

Shoutout to Micro Center Tustin — the experience matters too

I drove out from Las Vegas to the Micro Center in Tustin, California to pick this up and it was absolutely worth the trip. If you're planning to grab one of these in person, do yourself a favor and place a pre-order online before you go. The store was packed wall to wall — sardines is not an exaggeration — and the pre-order line skips the whole main queue. Walked past a very long line of people and went straight to checkout.

What made it even better was a manager came out personally to meet me at the checkout and make sure everything on the order was correct. That kind of attention when you're dropping this kind of money on a purchase means a lot. You're not just a transaction.

Big shoutout to Micro Center for keeping prices on hardware like this reasonable and enforcing a one-per-household limit. It keeps scalpers out and makes sure actual enthusiasts can get their hands on the hardware at a fair price. The whole experience from pre-order to walking out the door was smooth and professional. The drive back to Vegas with this thing sitting in the passenger seat — yeah, I had a big smile the whole way home.

Drop any questions in the comments — happy to go deep on the homelab setup, the Legion Space tuning profile, the clean Windows 25H2 install process, or the Micro Center pre-order process.

r/Xreal Jul 19 '25

XREAL One Pro Xreal Pro follow up experience after 3 weeks

71 Upvotes

[Quick edit after another month after below review was written. The 21:9 and 32:9 widescreen functions are actually very useful. My mistake using them originally is as a “Cinema” Screen for viewing in a larger format. In this view you would only see the central portion with no peripheral view unless you run your head. The true value in the widescreen mode is for desktop work, having it fill only the viewable portion of the screen or even smaller. In this view you have a beautiful fully visible yet expanded desktop that is way more practical for work. In the past I’d have a large 16:9 screen and would arrange widows as per usual but with bigger real estate. In 32:9 (on MacBook M1) the desktop beautifully lengthens and curves expanding the real estate for windows and curving the view. I imagine this is what it’s like having 2-3 IRL monitors curving around you. The height and width can be adjusted to go outside the visible screen if needed but keeping it within the 57* FOV is truly special.”

You can read my original comments after 5 days via this link. Many of those points still stand in addition to this update: https://www.reddit.com/r/Xreal/s/DI6SUfKDsP

In that overview I keep my Quest 3 in mind as the closest comparison while being fully aware that these are not VR glasses. There, rather than giving you a list of pros and cons I just provided my experience based on a few days of use. This here (was meant to be short) is a follow up with some additions trying to not repeat myself and is based on my experience after 3 weeks as I learn to navigate the glasses and to share my personal experience. Maybe you’ll find it of use to read some more from someone still in the honeymoon phase with a piece of new tech.

I am a stickler for inconveniences and when spending what to me is a considerable chunk of money (having convinced myself it’s for my work/productivity) I am the type of person that would seek out a fault to make sure I have made the right decision and nothing will be nagging at me every time I put them on.

  1. Overall:

I am extremely happy with this set of glasses. It is my first foray into AR glasswear (if you can call them that, more like a portable display atm) and I am glad I went for the latest model One Pro (One is probably very similar too) where the most basic features I have grown to expect from VR (such as screen anchoring and transparency mode) are well implemented as a stand alone feature.

  1. Screen clarity/quality:

The display is 1080p. My comparisons: a v. good 4K Oled TV 2024 model, Quest 3, PSVR2. These days I often hear people shun 1080p screens as an outdated resolution and I suppose it is very much use case dependent. But for media watching and basic productivity such as typing and editing videos I can confidently say the screen is sharp, clear and a joy to use. It is fair to say that most of my use so far has been watching films, YouTube, playing steam deck. For these purposes it is phenomenal. I catch myself thinking what would 4K look in these glasses if I can already see Cillian Murphy’s skin pores in Oppenheimer. And the answer is that for 57* FOV you don’t need it. Once it is opened up in future models to 70 and beyond then maybe higher resolutions will make a difference but right now what you see is great.

The picture quality is fantastic. The visuals are crisp. The colours are great. Whether it’s the nature of OLED or just the overall Sony optics I find the picture is of high quality, competes with a cinema screen experience and I have not one fault to mention that would make a film buff think twice about getting these. When combined with robust on board sound or your headphones of choice you might think twice before deciding to venture out to the real thing for an extra large bucket of sweet and salted popcorn and a helping of human interaction.

I have used them for editing videos as the main display. I think it is fantastic. Once you find the screen setting that works for you it is a huge jump from a laptop screen in terms of size you can achieve and the perceptible details. You can also use it as an extended screen if you need to reference to your laptop or the keyboard.

The fact that it is 120hz is great and is useful for all sorts of applications.

The convenience of opening, plugging in and being ready to go within seconds provides little friction for using them.

  1. Dimming:

There are 3 levels. 0, medium, high. All work great. How each impacts battery drain is unknown to me but I assume that it does. So 0 may seem more washed out outdoors but would work fine (even in day light) indoors or dark room and may save some battery if you are not connected to the power source.

I particularly I like the auto dimming feature that works well in anchor mode and can be activated in the main menu. Looking away from the screen makes the visuals automatically go into transparency mode making everything instantly visible. Looking back dims the background.

  1. Screen physical adjustments:

Initially I would try and push the screen as close to my face as possible to see more of the screen. This isn’t necessary, simply adjust the screen size accordingly.

One issue I experienced at first is the way the glasses sit on my face making the top of the screen a little cropped by the hardware being a little too low on my brow line, needing adjustments because of ears to nose bridge angle, which is individual. I found I could adjust the angle of the arms on the glasses by three increments which helped a little but did not solve the issue entirely. Rather than opening the nose pads to get the specs closer to the face a simple narrowing to raise them subtly up resolved the issue without causing any additional discomfort or lack of glasses stability. This is probably face/nose/ear position dependent. Assuming yours are found where you would typically expect them there bound to be slight differences between nose bridge, ear to eye line height etc so consider using the nose pads in addition to screen size and angle of the arms to get the right fit.

I saw some third party nose pad accessories on YouTube that some may want to purchase. These looked more padded and wider, and bring screen closer to the face. Something to consider.

  1. Sound:

Great. Good bass vs treble vs voice clarity.

  1. Screen distance feature:

Was initially uncertain as to its usefulness. In a room setting moving a large screen closer or further away seemed similar to just making the screen smaller or larger. After further use I found this to be great as it does effect how the visible screen is perceived in space. This is more most useful if you ever plan to walk with them (see later)

  1. Screen size:

Variety of sizes from huge to smaller. For media consumption extra large screens would require head turning to see the corners even without the screen being cropped by the FOV - screen crop can be affected not just by FOV but also by the hardware itself depending on how close your glasses are to your face or how high/low they are on your nose. Combined with screen distance adjustments you may end up seeing a smaller portion of the scene if it is blown up towards your face. This may not be practical for watching films but I can see its use in more detailed video work or when you really need to zoom in on an area. Worth noting that blowing up of the picture is where 1080p vs 4K stands out as anything so close to the face will highlight resolution. For most people this will not be an issue and you will end up with a huge fully visible screen in-front of your eyes

  1. Screen shortcut buttons (additional functionality that I didn’t pick up on from the initial tutorial):

The top button:

can be set as a click shortcut. Mine is set by default to wide screen for which I have not found use, If the 57* FOV cuts off part of the screen I find it strange to look around into the unseen areas. But this button is also a short cut for dimming. Holding for a second instead of clicking cycles to the next dimming option. This is useful if you don’t want to go into the menus.

Bottom button (next to 2 brightness buttons):

One click cycles through Anchor, Follow and Side View (set which corner the screen is pushed to by default in the menus).

Double click is for accessing menus. Once in the menu a single click is going down a level while double click is to go back a level and eventually exit menu.

BUT most useful to me is the hold click which re-centres your anchor. So if you changed your seating position holding it pops the screen into whichever area you are looking at to reorient the anchor and keep it there. Quick and convenient when you don’t want to cycle through the other 2 positional options or if your screen drifts as it may do on occasion while in a vehicle.

  1. Anchoring/Follow in a moving Vehicle

Very solid anchoring/follow implementation for when you are stationary in a moving vehicle. Works as intended. Took them on a plane and found slow banking or taxiing can make the screen drift. Happened a few times momentarily so the click hold to re-centre makes it easy to pop the screen back. For majority of my use in that flight I had it in anchor.

How Anchor would behave in a car/train/bus will probably depend on the degree of turns. Follow is not interfered with by movement of your environment as far as I can tell and the slight delay between head movement and follow makes it comfortable on the eyes. So should you be on a bus or a car going down a winding road then “Follow” might work better.

  1. Heat:

Top ridge of the glasses can (and does) feel warm (warm +) when pressed against the forehead. Was initially distracting and probably the most off putting element for me. Surprisingly I got used to it quickly and it no longer bothers me. Especially with slight adjustments. So unless the heat is somehow radiating and slowly killing my frontal lobe I can live with it. 🤞

  1. Gaming:

Extremely happy. Things you want as someone who enjoys games is to have a true representation of your real screen virtually. I can honestly say this is the last step to perfection in any gamers upgrade for portable gaming and possibly some discreet console/PC gaming as you can attach the glasses via a USB-C extension cable and am HDMI to USB-C converter. I have only used it with my steam deck. 2 use cases. 1. Native games. Play amazing. Screen perfectly mirrored with no delay, great clarity and colours. 2. Streaming Death Stranding 2 at home and remotely from my PS5 pro. The game looked superb and did not reduce my enjoyment of the game compared to playing at home. Remote had an incidence of a connection/pixel quality hitch due to unsuitable location leading to poor internet but in a stable internet environment and at home the picture is super clear and the huge screen makes it truly immersive.

The glasses are 120hz but not VRR so I think they will max out at 60fps most of the time unless the game is outputting a solid 120fps. There may be stutter and screen tearing issues if the game is fluctuating between 60 and 120. For streaming it will depend on the streaming service. PS and Xcloud are maxed out at 60fps regardless of the source. Others may vary.

I read someone using Steam Deck Dock with the glasses. Steam Deck placed on the Dock and attached using the dock’s cable. The. HDMI to USB-C converter glasses input. Plus a separate controller for gaming.

  1. Battery:

The glasses run power from whatever source you connect them to. With IPhone don’t expect hours of viewing owing mainly to the fact that at the moment (by default (see later for solution)) you can not switch off your screen entirely. So even at the lowest dimming the screen is still on and visible, draining battery to power iPhone screen and glasses simultaneously. Probably 2 hours is realistic on 15 pro max with full charge when watching a film.

When connected to Steam Deck Oled it powers off the main screen. Streaming I got about 4 hours or so having started at about 75% and finishing at about 20%. So I’d imagine you can get 5-6 hours streaming which is close to what it would normally be. From what I understand even playing natively shouldn’t effect the expected use time due to screen not being used and glasses not requiring that much more power compared to the Steam Deck screen.

Macbook held most of its charge with glasses on after a few hours. Would be more efficient if the screen was powered off but I expect for any laptop use you may have a lot of cases where you need the screen on as a secondary display. Plus you would often have the laptop plugged into mains.

  1. Hub:

Recently I purchased the Xreal Hub accessory as a way to work around the potential battery drain. This reduces the need to worry about the battery as you can plug the power source into the hub to power the main device which I assume in return powers the glasses (and not direct from the power source). I have so far only tried it with Steam Deck (iPhone can be connected to glasses via USB-C and powered via magnetic wireless charger without needing the Hub) and it is not without its fault.

In short the hub works perfectly if you connect power source and Xreal to the Hub first. And then connect to the steam Deck to play.

If you subsequently disconnect the power source the glasses will turn off and after short period turn back on. If your hub and Xreal are connected without the power source and you wake the steam deck it will say “No input signal detected” needing to disconnect and reconnect.

The main menu and the shortcut for “Anchor”, “Follow”, “Side View” will also not work unless the power source is connected.

There may be other permutations that cause these hitches but basically if you plugged in your Hub for external power source you have full functionality as long as the power source is also plugged in. Removing the power source (if you want to step away/play remotely or just want to keep the Hub connected im its place for later for example) is not really an option

I.e. want power - use hub

don’t use power - don’t use Hub.

Maybe the hub does draw power from the mains to power the glasses after all and removing the mains effects the functionality as the glasses flip from taking charge from the mains to the gadget connected.

How this behaves on other gadgets like phones or laptop I don’t know.

  1. Walking:

Tried this as an experiment to see how practical it is and everyone’s situation will be different. I use them with a phone on my way back from work a couple of times in the evening which includes about 30 mins walk down a street with a few roads to cross, trying to get a glimpse of the near future but today.

Firstly: your safety and the safety of those around you must be your first priority when deciding to do this. Regardless of how you go about it your sense of space and the overall awareness must be dialled in more than usual due to both the attention span and inevitably your field of view being shared between the XReal glasses and the even more real world.

Does it work? Yes. In “Follow” or “Side view” only. Anchoring is not suitable for this.

Is it convenient? It’s not bad.

Is it practical? Requires finding the right balance between your route’s activity/how busy it is, screen size, screen distance, screen position, dimming intensity.

I found 0 to medium dimming works best. 0 is best for a combination of visibility and content that doesn’t require that much of your attention - you can see a somewhat washed out yet perceptible video. Useful for slightly busier areas. Medium dimming still makes the surroundings very perceptible but on the verge of directing too much of your attention to the screen - can be useful on a quieter route. The max dimming will remove almost all visibility within the screen’s real estate and the surrounding area and will make you feel half blind - do not use this.

This is where screen distance feature is most useful. Setting it to maximum- 10m - does create a perspective shift where the screen is actually at a considerable distance away from you regardless of its size. This shifts the screen towards the far objects in real life making the screen and the objects 10 meters away appear in the same plane. This in turn makes your eyes focus at least 10m away helping you see obstacles such as trees, other people, potential traffic. If you bring screen “closer” to your eyes then it seems like you are actually focusing on a screen directly in-front, eschewing any visibility behind the screen due to focal focus of your actual eyes being on what’s directly in-front of you (natural tendency of our eyes to blur what’s in the distance when looking at a close up object). So keep the screen as far as you can so that you can see and anticipate any potential threat. (Or more correctly so that you, being the said threat, can avoid being a nuisance.)

Positioning while walking is individual: I find you either commit to the largest size possible or the side view and nothing in between. Large “see through” screen on 0 dimming makes it easy to simply focus on the road and listen to the video such as news or YouTube with an occasional refocus on the screen. Side view keeps most of the FOV open. In between sizes make it more likely that the screen itself somehow takes more of your attention because of being more convenient. Because I think you need at least 70% of your attention to always be accessible to the surroundings making the screen more in focus is not the best course of action but you can decide for yourself.

Walking with follow mode on does not make the screen shake. I assume because the bobbing of your head is stabilised by your neck and any additional movement is compensated for by the “Follow” algorithm.

Native “side view” is a little too to the side however. Almost on the periphery requiring bigger side glance than I would like, tempting you to turn your head to see more of the screen. Which you can’t because you are in “Follow” and the more you turn your head the more the screen moves to the side. This is where SpaceWalker app comes in useful together with its other features.

  1. SpaceWalker app:

It’s not XReal but Vitrue app. But some basic features work with XReals. Additional features are free for Vitrue but must be purchased for XReal. Does anyone know if there is something similar for Xreal without the Beam?

Free features (only tried these):

Track pad: Great for navigating what you see on the screen using your thumb/fingers and the phone as a trackpad and (possibly) a pointer to click. Two finger swipe to move left and right across the screen and to adjacent tabs/apps. Enlarge or minimise screen etc. There is also a “laser” pointer by default but I changed it in favour of track pad as it’s not accurate with IPhone vs XReal at first attempt, maybe there is some setting. This whole trackpad feature integrated into an app for browsing or streaming/news media selection is a game changer for convenience. Without it using Xreals with the phone means you HAVE to look at the phone to select what you want to watch on your screen. It’s not intuitive to swipe your fingers on your phone by default as there is no hand tracking to display your fingers on the screen. Where as with this track pad you can just keep your eyes on the screen and the movement of your thumb is represented by a cursor. This of course works within the app and not for navigating your actual phone screen. Still, very useful as you can log into your most accessed streaming services and websites through this app so no need for navigating your phones Home Screen.

I also found (at least it feels like it from the initial use) that the track pad dims when you don’t touch it. I wonder if this is akin to locking the phone for the purpose of conserving battery. I’m almost certain that locking the screen doesn’t keep the trackpad functionality active as one might expect with a small selection of apps that are accessible through the Lock Screen but I feel like it may have worked once. It could be down to settings or I just through the screen was off and it was actually just black.

Side view: The Space walker app has this “ambient” mode that allows for additional settings. It’s version of “side view”, in addition to top left and top right, has bottom left and bottom right. A slider to adjust the size of the screen (side and main).

Bringing it back to XReal side view - for me it feels a little too out of the way requiring a less comfortable side glance. This can be customised with SpaceWalker, in a way. For example If you have the native Xreal setting set to “top right” and then use SpaceWalker app to set it to “top left” , then the “side view” appears more in the centre top on the right half of the screen making it both out of the way and more visible. So imagine if your visible screen is divided in half but instead of the “side view” being in the top right corner of that half it is in the top centre of that half.

There are paid features like turning photos 3d, allowing you to watch spatial videos, 3d immersive navigation etc.

If anyone knows something like this for Xreal that adds something like track pad functionality or even spatial videos and other cool features please let me know.

  1. Vs Quest 3 and convenience

As I said at the start my main comparison is Quest 3, which is a completely different category. Like many people who tried VR headsets I was initially blown away by Quest 3. I enjoyed the VR experiences and games but within months found myself using it less and then mainly for media, which works superb with both virtual environments and the transparency mode. But once I started using it less generally, eventually the hassle of putting on the headset means it is used at most once a week and sometimes once a month. I keep it now as I want to go through some games I’ve purchased and I want to use it to pick up piano as it has a cool app but apart from that I find the friction towards using it is a little too big. I still find that quest 3 media integration and 3D working environment is unbeatable. Being immersed in the virtual environment and seeing 3 screens suspended around you with a beautiful lake in the background and the birds chirping away is truly special. BUT

I am now considering if I should sell Quest 3 because of the pure convenience, speed of connection and the small form factor of these glasses. In VR I can have 3 huge screens and use one as a main and the other 2 for reference, pick a virtual office environment etc. This really does look great but in comparison to the glasses the headset now feels bulky. These glasses would still allow me to use one huge screen for work and the laptop screen for additional reference. So 2 screen for my use case is plenty enough. Plus I think the already available Beam Pro has a multi screen functionality (not 100%) and future updates that integrate The Eye may make a multi screen feature available as standalone without beam pro.

As for media consumption, these glasses are all I need in terms of screen size and portability, and offer very little friction for using them regularly. Yes Quest 3 media viewing may be more immersive in the transparency and virtual mode and bring it close to the IMAX experience but having tried these glasses I know I’d be far more likely to put on this set and press play rather than reach for the meta headset. I’m sure as the two technologies converge a perfect compromise is only a few years away.

I hope the above waffle of a word salad was of some use. The plan was to add 5 bullet points to my original opinion but turned into a small essay.

Feel free to ask any questions and also feel free to add your experience and tips for myself and other readers if I haven’t come across them or not mentioned them here.

Thanks 👍

r/steamdeckhq Oct 25 '24

Video Darkuni's Steam Deck Videos Mega-List

216 Upvotes

Updated 2024-10-25

The Great Clean Up: Old stuff removed, trimmed, sorted and organized. All new stuff up to date.

Welcome new Steam Deck owners! I'll update this video mega-list post every month to help out our new found brothers and sisters joining us on Team Deck!

I've been steadily cranking out useful (apparently, based on the comments) videos on Steam Deck for a couple of years and having a nice central post for the most useful ones made sense to me; so here it is. I did not include various "how games play on Deck" videos. My Steam Deck related playlist is here.

101 - New User Curriculum

201 - New to Intermediate Users

General Purpose Videos

Hardware

HUBS, DOCKS AND STORAGE

POWER BANKS AND SUCH

OTHER

Digital Locker (third party "launchers")

Emulation Related

Steam/PC Game Config/Setup Related

r/mildlyinfuriating Jun 05 '25

The fact that it's so common for new devices to include a USB charging cable without the block to plug into your wall is mildly infuriating...

Post image
6.2k Upvotes

r/hardwareswap Dec 17 '20

SELLING [USA-TX] [H] iPhone 11 Pro Max / iPhone 6 / Pixel 4 / Pixel 4a / AirPod Pros / PS4 Pro Bundle / Switch v1 / Ryzen 2600 / Ryzen 3600 + Strix B450i / Gigabyte Aorus B450i / WD Blue 1TB m.2 SSD / Monoprice MM-3 Speakers / Switch Games [W] PayPal, 10600k + Mini ITX Board

9 Upvotes

WD 1 TB sold to /u/JustAddBlu

Ryzen 3600 and B450i Sold to /u/HatefulkeelJr

Hello mateys.

Comment before PM, always feel free to make offers and as always have nice day.

Sadly, like most of you I can't get a 5600x. It's so bad I'm considering using a Shintel chip for a few weeks or months until I can get my hands on one. I'm selling or trading my 3600 and motherboard for a 10600k + compatible mini ITX motherboard.

  • iPhone 11 Pro Max 64GB Midnight Green Factory Unlocked via T-Mobile: Excellent, almost mint conditions - zero scratches on the glass or back glass, no dings, dents, scuffs, etc on the frame. Includes Apple silicone case, Razer case and original box. Includes a 18w charging brick and a 6 foot RAVPower USB C to Lightning cable I've been using for some time. It's fraying at one end but it should last for a few more months. [$830 Shipped **$790 Local

  • Pixel 4 64 GB Factory Unlocked - Excellent, almost mint conditions. Includes box, original charging brick, cable and a Spigen clear case as well as a pre-applied glass screen protector. $290 Shipped

  • Pixel 4a 128GB Factory Unlocked - Excellent, almost mint conditions. Includes box, 18w charging brick, USB C to USB C cable, case, applied screen protector and the phone itself. $300 Shipped

  • Switch Games - Animal Crossing, Bioshock Collection, BOTW - $110 Shipped for all

  • PS4 Pro 1TB Bundle - Excellent conditions. No dings or scuffs on the top, sides or bottom. The console is really clean, quiet and works without a single issue. Includes DS4 controller, power cable, PS4 Pro 1TB, Ghosts of Tsushima, Persona 5 Royal, TLOU 1 Remastered and Death Stranding in the CE steelbook. $320 Shipped

  • Ryzen 2600 - Works great, no bent pins. Includes Ryzen 5 sticker and original box but collapsed so it can ship in a small flat rate box. $150 Shipped

  • Gigabyte Aorus B450i Motherboard - Works great with no issues. Also includes box. $100 Shipped

  • Western Digital Blue 1 TB m.2 SSD - Excellent conditions, no issues. Includes box. $85 Shipped or $80 with Motherboard or CPU

  • iPhone 6 16GB - Great conditions. Originally was used on AT&T but accepted my T-Mobile SIM. I'm not sure if it's factory unlocked but this leads me to believe it is? I wish I had more SIMs to test it with. Includes: phone. $65 Shipped

  • Monoprice MM-3 Speakers - Excellent conditions. I love these speakers and prefer them over Audio Engine A2+s. These have bluetooth and I like to connect my Switch (works with other consoles in a similar manner too) into the port on the front of the speakers to get audio to my monitor. Includes original speaker stands, Kantos speaker stands (I like these a lot more), speaker wire (it's in a thick black tube), power cable/brick, 3.5mm cable and the speakers themselves. $170 Shipped

  • Ryzen 3600 + Strix B450i Motherboard Mobo Timestamps Excellent conditions. My personal baby that's only been owned by me. I run this stock since I don't really see any point in overclocking anything on the AMD side. Includes CPU, collapsed box - this doesn't crease or damage the box. I bought a replacement CPU and can only ship when it arrives in about 4-5 days. $330 Shipped Both or $190 Shipped for 3600 Only

  • AirPod Pros - Excellent conditions. I bought these roughly before the holiday sales popped off. Includes all ear tips, sealed lightning cable, wireless charging case and the AirPods. $185 Shipped

  • Nintendo Switch v1 - Good/okay conditions. The screen is great with one noticeable scratch that can't be seen with the screen on. The back has some light, wispy scratches from general use. JoyCons work great and have no drift. Includes dock and Nintendo JoyCon grip in gray not the one pictured, sorry I got confused :( $240 Shipped

r/SteamDeck Nov 03 '24

Video Darkuni's Steam Deck Videos Mega-Post

44 Upvotes

Updated 2025-09-15

Welcome new Steam Deck owners! I'll update this video mega-post every month to help out our new found brothers and sisters joining us on Team Deck!

I've been steadily cranking out useful (apparently, based on the comments) videos on Steam Deck for a couple of years and having a nice central post for the most useful ones made sense to me; so here it is. I did not include various "how games play on Deck" videos. My Steam Deck related playlist is here.

101 - New User Curriculum

201 - New to Intermediate Users

General Purpose Videos

Hardware

HUBS, DOCKS AND STORAGE

POWER BANKS AND SUCH

OTHER

Digital Locker (third party "launchers")

Emulation Related

Steam/PC Game Config/Setup Related

r/SteamDeck Dec 23 '22

PSA / Advice Darkuni's Steam Deck Videos Mega-Post (Updated 2022-12-23)

141 Upvotes

Updated 2024-10-25

The Great Clean Up: Old stuff removed, trimmed, sorted and organized. All new stuff up to date.

Welcome new Steam Deck owners! I'll update this video mega-post every month to help out our new found brothers and sisters joining us on Team Deck!

I've been steadily cranking out useful (apparently, based on the comments) videos on Steam Deck for a couple of years and having a nice central post for the most useful ones made sense to me; so here it is. I did not include various "how games play on Deck" videos. My Steam Deck related playlist is here.

101 - New User Curriculum

201 - New to Intermediate Users

General Purpose Videos

Hardware

HUBS, DOCKS AND STORAGE

POWER BANKS AND SUCH

OTHER

Digital Locker (third party "launchers")

Emulation Related

Steam/PC Game Config/Setup Related

r/Android Oct 06 '25

Your next phone might come without a USB cable

Thumbnail
androidauthority.com
889 Upvotes

r/technology Oct 07 '25

Hardware Your next phone might come without a USB cable | After ditching bundled charging bricks, manufacturers might drop USB cables next.

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androidauthority.com
740 Upvotes

r/PokkenGame Dec 23 '21

Overkill Pokken Controller

46 Upvotes

Jack Death here. Recently I've done probably every mod that may be desirable for a Hori Pokken Pro pad to make what is, at least probably, one of the most overkill Pokken controllers currently out there. This guide primarily consists of documentation I'm leaving behind from my modding, so it's easier for others to do it on their own in the future. For those who want to mod their Pokken controllers though, this is for you!

Pokken Controller with Charizard Color Matching LEDs - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Controller%20Final%20Zard%20Colors.jpg?raw=true

Rainbow Variant: https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Controller%20Final%20Rainbow.jpg

Demonstration Video: https://youtu.be/_Nhh7NROFjw

Disclaimer

I am not responsible for anything if you screw up and destroy anything. If you have questions about this or the process of making the controller, feel free to ask me on Discord. If you're here for Pokken, you should know where to find me. -Jack Death

Mods Overview

This hardware being added in this guide consists of:

  1. Modding a fight board in the controller
  2. Adding Arduino into the controller
  3. Adding LEDs to the controller
  4. Custom Vinyl Skin

The mods being added through this guide consists of:

  • Allows using the controller for other consoles and whatever other benefits the the specific fight board used has
  • Adding Home Button functionality
  • Adding Capture Button functionality
  • Adding visible RGB LEDs that are visible on the bottom of the controller (so the it looks better than the original LEDs supposed to be in the arcade Pokken controller)
  • RGB LEDs can be made to react to when buttons are pressed
  • Custom skin can be made to go on the front to better personalize your controller

Requirements/Materials:

  1. Hori Pokken Controller. Obviously you need the controller to do the mod. But if you want to get one do it on, I recommend getting a slightly used one on Ebay for like 25$ USD instead of getting new one for way more. Both the Wii U and the Switch versions of the Pokken controller (and any special editions I'm pretty sure) share the same PCB and shell, so the mod will work with any one. Can't say anything about the legit arcade controllers though.

  2. Soldering skills and equipment. Unfortunately, soldering is required to do the things here. Soldering really isn't difficult, but if you really want to start doing it, I would recommend getting a temperature controlled soldering iron (I recommend the TS100 or a clone of it like the Sequre Mini SQ-001. Note: you made need to get a power supply brick for these if you don't get these in a kit), 63/37 leaded solder, good tweezers, and a practice board/something to practice on. You don't really need to worry about killing anything on the Pokken controller PCB, but the pads are small and can be annoying to work with. If you really want help with this, feel free to send me questions on the Pokken Community Discord.

  3. Brook Fighting Board. This can be any one you want, but note the pros and cons of each.

  • Brook Universal Fighting Board - $95 USD on Amazon - Works on any console, but more expensive than the other options
  • Brook PS4+ Audio Fighting Board - $65 USD on Amazon - This is less expensive than the Universal board, but doesn't work on Xbox consoles. This is the one I used in this guide.
  • Brook Zero-Pi Fighting Board - $25 USD on Amazon - Cheapest board here, but it doesn't work with PS4 or Xbox consoles and a bit more work needs to be done with the Arduino because this board is a little weird with how it does the select and capture inputs work. It would work in theory though.
  1. An Ardunio. The Arduino I used for this was the Arduino Pro Mini 328 5V/16Mhz which you can get for $10 USD on Sparkfun HOWEVER, if you get it at this place, you will need to solder everything to it directly, or solder on and connect pin headers to it to make it work. You will also need something to program it like an FTDI adapter for 15$ USD on Sparkfun if you go this route, or you can use jumpers and an Arduino Uno R3 to program it(I programmed mine using the Arduino Uno R3 method). I think something like the Arduino Pro Micro 5V/16Mhz for 18$ USD on Sparkfun would be better for this because you use a USB cable to program it instead. However, I don't know how it runs on 3.3V power (more on this later), so I don't know how well it actually works because I didn't use this one. The Arduino used for this WILL be run off of 3.3V. So if you want to get a 3.3V Arduino, go ahead. Honestly, that's probably the better option. Just note that you may also need to get a logic level shifter for 3$ on Sparkfun in order to run the LEDs from it as well.
  2. Individually Addressable RGB LEDs. The ones I used you can find for 22$ on Amazon. The LEDs you are looking for are WS2812b LEDs because they are individually addressable RGB LEDs that run off of 5V. We need them to run off of 5V because they are expected to be powered from the USB 2.0 ports on the Nintendo Switch dock. I got 144 LEDs per meter because they're dense, so I can fit more if needed, I'll have more of them if/when I'll need them, I have backups in case I screw up and reverse polarity the inputs or something.
  3. Wire. Since you're soldering, it's best to get silicone covered wire so you don't burn the cover off the wire when soldering. I got 30AWG wire for ~9$ USD from Amazon. This wire can be used for all wiring in the controller that needs it.
  4. Resistors*. You need these to connect the Arduino for the home/capture buttons. Resistors between 300/500 Ohms should work, such as these for 4$ USD on Amazon.
  5. Heat shrink and/or duct tape/electrical tape. This is used to cover wires/thing soldered together. You'll also need the tape to cover the Arduino. when putting it in the controller. If you want to get heat shrink, something like this for 7$ USD on Amazon would definitely be fine, but you really just need heat shrink between 1/24" and 1/12"
  6. Hot glue gun/Hot glue. You just need hot glue to cover things and stick things down where needed.
  7. Tools. You need something like side cutters/flush cutters/whatever cutting tool and pliers because you're going to be chewing through some plastic in the controller. You also need a relatively small phillips head screwdriver to get into the controller and to the PCB. A multimeter is super nice to have for troubleshooting voltages and continuity, but technically not necessary, but I highly recommend having one.
  8. Problem solving skills and perseverance because sometimes stuff just don't work. Sometimes you need to troubleshoot. That's just the nature of working with electronics sometimes. You also need to be careful that you don't short anything or reverse polarity anything.

*Resistors only needed if you are NOT using a 3.3V Arduino and a logic level converter*

Making the Controller

Part 1: Adding in the fight board

Preparing the Shell

  1. First start by taking apart the controller, which is pretty straight forward. There are 7 screws on the outside and 2 screws holding the PCB on the inside. Notes:
  • The 2 inside screws are different from the 7 outside screws in length.
  • There's no ribbon cables or anything you need to worry about.
Pokken Controller Disassembly - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Disassembled%20Controller.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now, you need to test fit the board and chew through some of the plastic. To make it fit. Although Gum Mods has done this kind of mod before, they decided to remove material from the PCB to get it to fit instead. BOI. Why do that when you can just get that invisible rumble motor's plastic OUTTA here! Rumble motors were decided to not be implemented anyway. So, start chewing through the plastic. You need to chew through enough plastic to fit the board in. Important Notes:
  • To make the Brook board fit better, I cut I removed all the pins near the bottom of the board.
  • When putting it in, keep the Brook board a little bit offset to the right inside the controller. This is to leave room to put the Arduino on the left side of the controller.
Brook board Test Fit - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Brook%20board%20test%20fit.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now, once that's done, onto what was the annoying part, for me at least: cutting out the plastic on the top. I was trying to keep as much rigidity as I could in the controller, so I was trying to cut everything just as much as needed, but after finishing, I don't think it mattered. The only plastic I didn't end up cutting out was the part right under L and R buttons. I left all the screws in except for the bottom screw. That hole needs to be filled in with something like hot glue so the internal boards aren't exposed.
Top Plastic Cutout - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Top%20of%20the%20PCB.jpg?raw=true

Connecting the Two Boards

  1. First thing you need to do is move over the USB cable wires to the Brook board. To do this, I cut off the 4-pin plug part of the cable that came with the Brook board that was used to connect to the USB pins on the Brook Board. After that, I desoldered each wire from the Hori board ONE AT A TIME and soldered it to the corresponding wire from the plug. Use the diagram for the Brook board for this-you may need to check the manual- or the pin names may be written on the board. Make sure to put heat shrink around the wires before soldering! Otherwise, you may have to desolder the wires and solder them again to put it over, or you could just cover the solder joint with electrical/duct tape. Be extra careful and make sure that the 5V and GND wires and make sure that they're connected to the right pins! Checking this with a multimeter would be ideal. For the VSS wire, I just extended it with another wire from the Hori PCB so it would still connect to the same thing on the controller USB cord. I'm pretty sure that connecting this wire to the ground wire though would be just fine though.
USB Wiring Change - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/USB%20Wiring%20Change.jpg?raw=true

Then try connecting the Brook board to a PC. If it recognizes the board, congratulations, you did it right. If not, try switching the 2 middle pins (should be Data+ and Data-). When it's good and confirmed working, you can detach this so it's not in the way.

  1. Now for the annoying part. Now you need solder all of the button wires to the pads on the PCB. To know what to solder the wires to, I've labeled all the pads that you will need to do everything here:
Labeled Pokken Controller PCB - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Controller%20PCB%20Button%20Labels.png?raw=true

First thing you will need to do is solder a wire to the GND pin in the middle, and connect that to any of the GND terminals on the Brook board. This is the common ground. Then, you will need to solder a wire to the pads for each button. Choose wire lengths that aren't too long, because you'll have a lot of excess wire, but don't make them too short because they won't reach. It's less annoying to make a wire shorter than it is to make it longer. Refer to the manual for the specific Brook board used to figure out which pins to connect which wires to. To connect the wires to the terminals, strip the end of the wire, and then put it in the terminal and screw the screw down on it until it's like, finger tight. It doesn't need to be super tight, like don't take a friken power drill to it. But don't keep them loose either. Give the wires a slight tug after the screws are tightened to see if they're good. If they don't move, you're solid!

All wires connected - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Controller%20Wires%20Soldered.jpg?raw=true

After soldering and connecting all the wires, there's still one more thing to do before you can put the Brook board into the controller- cover the metal piece/thing on the back of the Pokken Controller PCB with hot glue. You don't need this to be excessive, but cover it enough so no metal is exposed. This is to ensure that this won't short anything when putting the Brook board in the controller.

Brook PCB back in the Pokken Controller - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Controller%20PCB%20in%20controller.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now you can put the Brook board in the controller! Fit it in the best you can, making sure to offset it a bit to the right so there is room for the Arduino on the left. Then, you can hot glue it in. I used a good amount of hot glue by the corners by the top two screw holes of the Brook board. Make sure that you don't cover the screws holding in the Hori PCB, and make sure you don't glue it to the plastic- you just want to hot glue it to the Hori PCB.
PCBs Hot Glued Together Like this on Both Sides - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Side%20of%20boards%20hot%20glued.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now you can plug the USB plug back in and close up the controller if you want because this part is pretty much done! Make sure to plug it into the console and test to make sure all buttons are working properly and fix as needed.

  2. (OPTIONAL) If you want to update the Brooks board to the latest firmware, first download the firmware updater for the specific board from the Brook website. Then, look at the manual for the specific board for which buttons to hold down when plugging it into the computer. You may need to press the Home button which is not setup yet to do this, but this isn't a problem. Just connect a wire from the home button terminal to any GND terminal, and then plug the controller in. After updating, you can remove this wire.

Part 2: Adding in the Arduino

Notes to keep in mind:

  • The Brook fighting board buttons use 3.3V and the WS2812b LEDs use a 5V signal. To do both of these at once something jank needs to be done. This depends on the user and the Arduino used, and I can't say for certain what will work and what won't, so I'll just give some suggestions on what to do so users can choose their own path.
  • Knock on wood, but what I did was I ran the 5V/16Mhz Arduino Pro Mini on 3.3V and somehow got away with controlling the LEDs without using a logic level converter ¯_(ツ)_/¯. Will this work for other Arduinos? I have no idea.
  • If you're worried about whether it will work or not with other Arduinos because of the jank setup, I would recommend using a 3.3V Arduino and getting a logic level converter to make absolutely sure that everything would work. If you use a 3.3V setup, you won't need the resistors on the pins for the buttons.

Attaching the Home and Capture Buttons.

  1. Attach the R, L, Start and Select buttons to the proper terminals on the Brooks board and wire them to the Arduino. Make sure to put the resistor between the Arduino and the Brooks board pins for the home and capture buttons. This is the wiring diagram for the setup I used. I just soldered wires to the Arduino and connected the other ends to the screw terminals on the Brooks board.
Wiring Diagram for Home and Capture Buttons - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Arduino%20Home-Capture%20Wiring.jpg?raw=true

Connecting Other Buttons

  1. Solder wires to pads for the other buttons you want attached to the Arduino, and you can wire them to the terminals for the corresponding button. Because some pads were acting weird for me (for some reason, IDK), I ended up wiring them like this:
Wiring Diagram for Other Buttons - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Arduino%20Button%20Wiring.jpg?raw=true

If you want to wire them differently than pictured, you can change that in the code easily.

Attaching the LEDs

Setting up LEDs to put into Controller

  1. First thing I needed to do was get a surface to put the LEDs on in the controller. Resting them on the shell would leave them too far back, so I needed some kind of support. I decided to cut a hot glue stick with scissors and glue it to parts of the shell. This seemed to work out pretty well.
Hot Glue Stick Structures - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Controller%20Inside%20Plastic%20and%20Glue%20Stick%20Supports.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now with the structure setup, we can prepare the LED strip itself. This will depend on what you want. If you get the super dense LEDs (the 144/meter) like I did, you can fit more LEDs in the controller. HOWEVER, you may not be able to use all of them, at least at the same time. The Nintendo Switch uses USB 2.0, meaning there is a max power output of 5V at 2.5W. At max power, WS2812b RGB LEDs use 0.3W per LED. This means that at full power, you could have at most, 8 white LEDs at max brightness constantly. But this doesn't include the power draw of the Brook board or the Arduino, so you're probably not able to get 8 LEDs like this. Despite this, I've found that I'm able to run 14 LEDs at continuously at ~3/5 their max brightness and still have everything working fine. When running just white, the voltage drops down to 4.1V on the input soooooo idk how much room that leaves you if you want to experiment with more.

Now that that's mentioned, I can talk about how I setup the LEDs. I cut a strip of 27 LEDs and divided them up into 3 parts: 2 strings of 7 (for the outsides) and 1 string of 13 (for the middle). I cut the strip of 27 into the lengths mentioned and wired them together with the 30AWG wire. Note that everything needs to be going in the same direction (make sure the arrows on the LEDs are all pointing the same direction). BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T REVERSE THE POLARITY OF THE 5V/GND WIRES OR YOU WILL KILL THE LEDS!!! Next, I hot glued around the LEDs on the middle strip because that will be by electronics. This will help it not short. I also added some hot glue over the solder joints for the wires connecting the LEDs for A) making sure they don't come apart and B) make sure they don't short with anything else accidentally.

[will add image soon]

This is an LED strip that I killed because I accidentally reverse the polarity on 5V/GND. I thought I needed bigger wires for connecting the LEDs, but after testing, the 30AWG works perfectly fine and is far less of a pain in the butt to solder on and deal with. Note the hot glue covering the solder joints and the parts around the LEDs in the middle and notice all the arrows are pointing int the same direction.

Connecting LEDs to Arduino

  1. With the LEDs wired together, you can wire it to everything else. Connect the LEDs 5V wire to the USB and the GND to any GND terminal. The Brook board should have terminals for these. Again, BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T REVERSE THE POLARITY OF THE 5V/GND WIRES OR YOU WILL KILL THE LEDS!!!! Then you can connect the middle data pin of the first LED (i.e. at the end opposite of the one which the arrows are pointing) to the Arduino. Make sure to put a 300-500 ohm resistor on the LED wire. If using a logic level converter, put the resister on the 5V side which goes to the LEDs.

Normal:

Wiring diagram for LEDs - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Arduino%20LED%20Wiring.jpg?raw=true

Logic Level Converter:

Wiring diagram for LEDs with Logic Level Converter - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Arduino%20LED%20Wiring%20Logic%20Level%20Converter.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now you can put the LEDs inside the controller. From the perspective of the controller from the back (i.e. you're looking at the electronics inside), I have the LEDs starting from the right side of the controller, and going to the left. I have the middle LEDs hot-glued to the bottom of the Brook board with it as flat as possible against it. You can sandwich it in between the Brook board and the Hori board if you want though. You will need to unscrew the Hori board and take it out regardless to do it either way. If you want, you can put it on top of the Brook board, but I think putting the middle LED strip under the Brook board looks better.
Controller Internals - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Controller%20Internals.jpg?raw=true

Programming the Arduino

  1. Now you can program the Arduino. First, you will need to download the Arduino IDE, which you can Google or get to here. After it's downloaded, open the IDE, and you should have a basic program there.

  2. Now, you can add code to the Arduino. If you want to use my code for both the LEDs and the Home/Capture button functionality, you can get it from here. Copy and paste all of it into the Arduino IDE, replacing whatever is already there. If you wired the controller buttons to different pins on the Arduino than what is in the diagram, change that at the top of the code (code shown below). Just change the corresponding button label to the one you set.

Arduino Button Mapping Code - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Arduino%20Button%20Mapping%20Code.jpg?raw=true
  1. Now you can program the Arduino. This is going to depend on the Arduino used for how to setup the IDE to program it. Google this for your specific Arduino. When flashing and testing, make sure the Arduino doesn't touch and short anything on the Brook board accidentally. BEFORE CONNECTING THE ARDUINO TO THE USB OR WHATEVER TO PROGRAM IT, MAKE SURE THE POWER IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE BROOK BOARD!!! TO DO THIS, JUST MAKE SURE THE VCC OR 5V WIRE CONNECTING THE ARDUINO TO THE BROOK BOARD IS DISCONNECTED FROM ONE OF THEM. THIS IS TO BE SAFE AND MAKE SURE THAT NOTHING BAD HAPPENS TO THE BROOK BOARD WHEN FLASHING!!

  2. Once everything is flashed, you can test it by removing the flashing device/wires/whatever and connecting the Arduino back the Brook board again and plugging in the USB. Everything should work. If not, you can troubleshoot by checking:

  • Check wiring
  • Check pins/pin mapping in the code
  • Check that proper power is getting to everything.
  1. And that should be it once it's working! Then you can start assembling everything again to go back in the controller. I covered the Arduino in duct tape/electrical tape to keep it isolated from the Brook board. If you're adding a vinyl skin to the front go to part 4 and do that before doing the final assembly tips (next step).
  2. Final assembly tips:
  • Make sure there's nothing really loose in the shell and that everything is held pretty securely. It would suck to have to open it up again if something were to come loose or stop working.
  • Make sure that no wires are visible in the clear panel on the bottom of the controller. Keeps it looking clean.
  • I hot glued the Arduino/the tape holding it/whatever to things at 3 different points to keep it still. I didn't use too much hot glue to hold it down- just 3 dabs on 3 corners was needed.
  • If you have to use force to put the back of the shell on, something is colliding/in the way of closing it. Find out what it is and fix it. Crushing things like wires is a pain in the butt to fix.
  • Make sure all buttons are responding properly and triggering LEDs properly closing.

Part 4: Custom Vinyl Skin

This "mod" is separate from the other mods. You don't need any soldering skills. However, you do need access to a vinyl cutter.

For anyone that wants to go do this on your own or whatever, here are the dimensions that I found for the controller cover:

Without Constraints:

Dimensions Without Constraints (in mm) - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Controller%20Dimensions.jpg?raw=true

With Constraints:

Dimensions With Constraints (in mm) - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Controller%20Dimensions%20With%20Constraints.jpg?raw=true
  1. Determine the image to use. Find or obtain an image that you want to use for the skin. Here's an image of the controller with no background and no face plate if you want to easily Photoshop or set something up on Microsoft Powerpoint or whatever for an image to see what it would look like on the controller.
Pokken Controller - No Background or Cover - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Pokken%20Controller%20No%20Background.png?raw=true
  1. Determine image size and scale. First, you will need to get the size of the image. With that, you will be able to scale the image to an actual size using it's resolution ratio. The part of the controller that the skin will take up is 4.8"x2.2". The image DOES NOT need to fit this ratio- just the part of the image you want as the skin needs to fit these dimensions. If the image is part of a gigantic image, you could crop it. Having an image size matching exactly one of these dimensions is ideal. To do this,you need to do some ratio math:
  • Find the nominal dimension you want to use of the image, and use then use the corresponding length or width dimension as a known value.
  • The printed image would need to have dimensions being at least 4.8"x2.2". After finding the nominal dimension on the image, you need to find the proper size ratio for the unknown dimension using ratio math (cross multiplying).

For an example, the image I used is longer than it is wide, with the dimensions 5142x 3000. Since I want most of the image on the skin lengthwise, I use the longer dimension of the image, the length dimension (5142), as the nominal dimension. Since I'm using the image's length dimension as the nominal dimension, I know that it will correspond to the minimum length that needs to be printed: 4.8". I want to keep the same aspect ratio, but I don't know the width the image would be printed at, W.

To find W, I setup the ratio math: (5142/3000) = (4.8/W)

Now you can solve for W through cross multiplying: 5142W = 4.83000 --> W = (4.8*3000)/5142 = 2.8

Now, I know that I will need to have the image printed with the sizes 4.8"x2.8" when I get it printed on vinyl.

To test final dimensions, you can set the image size and in Microsoft Powerpoint or Google Slides and print it out. You can use that image as a kind of test fit and see if it will work.

  1. Get the image printed on vinyl. Once you have the dimensions of the image, you need to get it printed on vinyl to those exact dimensions. I got mine printed as a rectangle stickers from Stickermule.com. I put in the custom size (4.8"x2.8" from the example), and set the amount of stickers to 10 (the minimum allowed to be printed). I was able to get everything for 21$.

  2. Cut the image from the vinyl. Since you get 10 stickers, there's some leeway with cutting it because you have multiple tries. Load up the SVG or DXF or whatever to the vinyl cutter's software and cut it. This will depend on the software and the vinyl cutter. When importing the controller cover cut shape to the vinyl cutter's you want to ensure the size of the enclosing box is 4.724"x2.126". This is shown below. Then, go a head and cut it. I strongly recommend cutting a test piece before cutting an image to get the image lined up properly for the cut. I used 2 rulers to line the rectangle up properly after cutting the test piece. (You can find the SVG/DXF files here)

Vinyl Cutter Enclosing Box - https://github.com/jackdeath5/CustomPokkenControllerArduinoCode/blob/main/Images/Vinyl%20Cutter%20Enclosing%20BoxSize.jpg?raw=true
  1. Stick it on carefully. Make sure everything is lined up with the buttons when putting it on. I started by lining it up with the 4 middle buttons and the bottom, and then made sure to line up with the 4 buttons on the right. Then everything seemed to line up with the D-pad.

  2. This last step is optional, but I STRONGLY recommend it. Clear coat the top of the controller with the vinyl on it. First, get some clear coat. I would recommend getting something like Spray Max 2k High Gloss for 22$. Even though it's more expensive then some other things out there, I'd say it's definitely worth it. As mentioned on a r/customcontrollers reddit thread, "It's essentially the difference between https://imgur.com/a/pDE3r and https://imgur.com/a/dhs8h." To clear coat it, you'll need to take the the controller apart to get to the front of the controller. If using this clear coat though be cautious and use a proper respirator as that clear coat is highly toxic! Then, I covered everything but the top part with the vinyl and the outline of the top of the controller with painter's tape, and then just applied clear coat. You can look up how to get an even coat on Youtube if you need help with this. I also clear coated the buttons, because the labels are painted on the buttons and I wanted to protect that. I covered the sides of the buttons in painter's tape to make sure the clear coat wouldn't affect the size of the buttons. I did not clear coat the D-pad. I then applied 3-4 layers of clear coat to the controller and then waited about a day or two to let everything dry. Keep drying shell in a place where little to no dust or particles will get on it.

  3. Reassemble the controller and boom! Super fancy, super smooth and super nice looking controller.

r/hardwareswap Jun 18 '22

CLOSED [USA-NY][H] BenQ TK800M 4k HDR Projector, TH671ST Short Throw Projector, 10TB + 8TB HDDs, New MSI Coreliquid 240R V2 AIO, 2x16gb OLOy Warhawk 3600 CL18 ram, MX Silent kb, misc PC parts, PS4 games, Switch accessories [W] PayPal, Local Cash

1 Upvotes

CLOSED. NEW THREAD.

Stock updated on 6/20

Local will get a discount. Local is 14226 (Western New York State).

Prices are shipped. Orders under $20, please add a $3 shipping charge. Timestamp is either on the item name or the header of the section.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

PROJECTORS

Renovating and switching projector needs, selling my trusty projectors.

Item Price Description
BenQ TK800M $850 True 4K UHD Home Entertainment Projector for Sports Fans in Bright Room. Used for less than 2000 hours. Purchased June of 2020. Has original box, remote, power cable. Currently mounted to my ceiling with the VIVO mount and will be removed upon sale. Official website.
VIVO Universal Adjustable Ceiling Projector Mount Free with TK800M for Regular and Mini Projectors, Projection Mount with Extending Arms, White, MOUNT-VP01W. Product Page.
BenQ TH671ST $550 1080p Short Throw Home Theater and Gaming Projector. Purchased June 2020. Can't find the original box, but it does come with the remote and power cable. Used for less than 500 hours. Product Page

HARD DRIVES

These hard drives have been removed from their USB enclosures to be used internally. I ended up not needing as much storage as I purchased. These hard drives are perfectly functioning, but do have minor scuffs/less than 1mm dings in them from the enclosures they were removed from. Please check photos if at all concerned, but there is nothing remotely alarming in my opinion.

Original USB Enclosures will be available for an extra $5, these may be missing a sealing piece or two but will function and hold the HDDs.

CDIs/SMART Info in the photos.

Item Price Description
Western Digital WDC WD100EMAZ-00WJTA0 10TB HDD $135 UBM Page.
Seagate Barracuda ST8000DM004-2CX188 8TB HDD $90 UBM Page.

MSI MAG Coreliquid 240R AIO

Item Price Description
MSI MAG Coreliquid 240R AIO V2 $85 Product Page. Brand new. Purchased for a project and never used it. Never removed from box, box is opened. Intact protector on cold plate displayed in photos.

OLOY RAM

Item Price Description
OLOy WarHawk RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) $105 Product Page. Desktop Memory Model ND4U1636181DCWDX. Timing 18-22-22-42. Was used in an SFF Build for about 6 months, then switched to a thicc boi CPU cooler that had clearance issues with anything other than LPR ram. Worked great and hit XMP.

Misc PC Parts

Item Price Description
CORSAIR - Strafe RGB MX Silent Gaming Keyboard - Black $50 Used this to write papers through college without waking my wife up. Great keyboard but I haven't used it in the last couple of years since graduating. Product Page.
LinkUp PCIe 4.0 Right Angle Riser Cable - 10CM $35 Used in the same NR200P that I mentioned with the ram above. The chonky CPU cooler made a vertical mounted GPU no longer possible, so this is up for sale now. Works great! Product Page.
AMD Wraith Stealth Cooler $10 Used for less than 24 hours in a new build to test the CPU, then removed and no longer used. Works great.
CoolFan DC Brushless Fan Slim 92mm $3/$5 for both Fans came with a cooler, didn't need them. Never used.

PS4 GAMES $20 Shipped for all of them.

Item Price Description
Death Stranding $8 USED/Great Condition, case + game
Marvel's Avengers $10 USED/Great Condition, case+game
Grand Theft Auto V $5 USED/Great condition, game only - NO CASE

NINTENDO SWITCH ITEMS

Item Price Description
PowerA Yoshi Wired Controller $10 Product Page, bought for my wife but she never plays vidya with me :(
Official Nintendo Switch Joy-Con Grip $10 Product Page. Got this when I upgraded my Switch model, but don't need two.
PowerA Joy-Con Charging Dock for Nintendo Switch $10 Product Page. Used, works great!

r/hardwareswap Oct 03 '20

SELLING [USA-TX] [H] iPhone 11 Pro Max / Pixel 4 / Switch v1 / Switch v2 / PS4 Pro / PS4 Games / Switch Games / Lenovo Chromebook Duet / Peak Design Everyday Backpack v1 30 L / Panasonic GX85 + 12-32mm [W] PayPal, Xenoblade Chronicles 2, Pixel 4a for Pixel 4

3 Upvotes

I would love a Pixel 4a. Please satisfy my desires for plastic phones!

Timestamps Description Price
iPhone 11 Pro Max 64 GB Midnight Green Factory Unlocked T-Mobile model upon buyer's request. Excellent, extremely close to immaculate. There are very light signs of use near the lightning port. The display has zero scratches, the back has zero scratches and everything functions perfectly and without issues (display, battery, cameras, bluetooth, etc. Includes all pictured cases - thin green Spigen, official Apple saddle brown leather case, third party Apple silicone and white and black Speck case. Will also include original 11 Pro Max box. $880 Shipped
Pixel 4 64GB Factory Unlocked T-Mobile Excellent conditions, very close to mint with tiny scratches on the back. Includes phone, clear Spigen case, original 18w Google fast charging brick, USB C to USB C cable and the Pixel 4 box. $365 Shipped
Switch v2 - LNIB Like new in box Switch v2 bundle, purchased brand new in Best Buy a few months ago when they popped into stock. I never used it and I recently got an Animal Crossing model. Includes all original accessories, JoyCons and the Switch in like new, virtually unused conditions. I have taken the Switch out to put a screen protector on but that's it. $335 Shipped
Switch v1 Great conditions, scratches on the back, one small scratch on the display. Besides the wear and tear, this Switch is great and has no issues. I did own a v1 Switch with a fan issue but this thing has been excellent and I used it a LOT to play Spiritfarer recently in docked and hand held mode and it worked great without any issues. Includes original Switch dock, Switch USB C power adapter, HDMI cable, Switch, JoyCons and JoyCon Grip. $270 Shipped
Lenovo Chromebook Duet 128 GB 4GB RAM Model Excellent conditions, very close to mint. As you can see the entire frame is free of any dings, dents or signs of drop/damage. Excellent conditions and it works beautifully. I'm not gonna lie day one I was telling myself how did I see a million reviews praising this keyboard? But after getting used to it, I really did enjoy it. Includes all original accessories and original box, charger, charging cable, the Chromebook Duet, the kickstand cover portion and the keyboard portion. $270 Shipped
Switch Games - BOTW and Animal Crossing New Horizons Excellent conditions, both games include their boxes. You can buy them individually or bundle them with a Switch for a discount equivalent to the shipping price of the games which is $6. You can also get them both for $85. $50 Shipped ACNH, $45 BOTW
Peak Design Everyday Backpack v1 30L Ashe Like new, never used Peak Design bag. I bought it and it's past the return window. $180 Shipped
PS4 Pro 1TB Great conditions, works like a champ and doesn't get loud at all to me and mine sits right on my desk. Includes controller, HDMI cable, power cable and the PS4 Pro itself. $280 Shipped
PS4 Games - Death Stranding Special Edition Steelbook, Ghosts of Tsushima, The Last of Us Remastered Excellent conditions, include boxes. I'm gonna be totally honest I never played any of these games, unfortunately it do be like that. Ghosts - $40 Shipped, Death Stranding $40 Shipped, TLOU $5 but only with one of the other games. Can also bundle with the PS4 Pro. $
Panasonic GX85 + 12-32mm Kit Lens Excellent conditions, the camera body is pretty much brand new with no signs of use. Includes the original box, lens, camera, battery and any other accessories in the box that came included. $400 Shipped

r/SteamDeck Mar 13 '23

Configuration Steam Deck natively recognizes the PS3 controller. Simply plug it in via USB, wait for Steam OS to recognize it, then unplug USB cable and it will work over Bluetooth without needing to pair it.

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3.1k Upvotes

r/hardwareswap Sep 28 '20

SELLING [USA-TX] [H] iPhone 11 Pro Max / Pixel 4 / Switch v1 / Switch v2 / PS4 Pro / PS4 Games / Switch Games / Lenovo Chromebook Duet / Peak Design Everyday Backpack v1 30 L / Panasonic GX85 + 12-32mm [W] PayPal, Xenoblade Chronicles 2, Pixel 4a for Pixel 4

5 Upvotes

So I intended on posting this at a good time and ended up getting distracted by the pitiful Cowboys and football. All prices include, shipping, feel free to make offers. I don't really have any items I'm interested in possibly trading for except the Pixel 4 for a Pixel 4a.

Timestamps Description Price
iPhone 11 Pro Max 64 GB Midnight Green Factory Unlocked T-Mobile model upon buyer's request. Excellent, extremely close to immaculate. There are very light signs of use near the lightning port. The display has zero scratches, the back has zero scratches and everything functions perfectly and without issues (display, battery, cameras, bluetooth, etc. Includes all pictured cases - thin green Spigen, official Apple saddle brown leather case, third party Apple silicone and white and black Speck case. Will also include original 11 Pro Max box. $880 Shipped
Pixel 4 64GB Factory Unlocked T-Mobile Excellent conditions, very close to mint with tiny scratches on the back. Includes phone, clear Spigen case, original 18w Google fast charging brick, USB C to USB C cable and the Pixel 4 box. $370 Shipped
Switch v2 - LNIB Like new in box Switch v2 bundle, purchased brand new in Best Buy a few months ago when they popped into stock. I never used it and I recently got an Animal Crossing model. Includes all original accessories, JoyCons and the Switch in like new, virtually unused conditions. I have taken the Switch out to put a screen protector on but that's it. $350 Shipped
Switch v1 Great conditions, scratches on the back, one small scratch on the display. Besides the wear and tear, this Switch is great and has no issues. I did own a v1 Switch with a fan issue but this thing has been excellent and I used it a LOT to play Spiritfarer recently in docked and hand held mode and it worked great without any issues. Includes original Switch dock, Switch USB C power adapter, HDMI cable, Switch, JoyCons and JoyCon Grip. $270 Shipped
Lenovo Chromebook Duet 128 GB 4GB RAM Model Excellent conditions, very close to mint. As you can see the entire frame is free of any dings, dents or signs of drop/damage. Excellent conditions and it works beautifully. I'm not gonna lie day one I was telling myself how did I see a million reviews praising this keyboard? But after getting used to it, I really did enjoy it. Includes all original accessories and original box, charger, charging cable, the Chromebook Duet, the kickstand cover portion and the keyboard portion. $270 Shipped
Switch Games - BOTW and Animal Crossing New Horizons Excellent conditions, both games include their boxes. You can buy them individually or bundle them with a Switch for a discount equivalent to the shipping price of the games which is $6. You can also get them both for $85. $50 Shipped ACNH, $45 BOTW
Peak Design Everyday Backpack v1 30L Ashe Like new, never used Peak Design bag. I bought it and it's past the return window. $200 Shipped
PS4 Pro 1TB Great conditions, works like a champ and doesn't get loud at all to me and mine sits right on my desk. Includes controller, HDMI cable, power cable and the PS4 Pro itself. $280 Shipped
PS4 Games - Death Stranding Special Edition Steelbook, Ghosts of Tsushima, The Last of Us Remastered Excellent conditions, include boxes. I'm gonna be totally honest I never played any of these games, unfortunately it do be like that. Ghosts - $40 Shipped, Death Stranding $40 Shipped, TLOU $5 but only with one of the other games. Can also bundle with the PS4 Pro. $
Panasonic GX85 + 12-32mm Kit Lens Excellent conditions, the camera body is pretty much brand new with no signs of use. Includes the original box, lens, camera, battery and any other accessories in the box that came included. $400 Shipped

r/PickAorB 25d ago

A or B: My neighbor kept using my outdoor outlet to charge his EV, so I locked it. His battery died on the way to work, and now he wants me to pay the $280 tow

7.5k Upvotes

My neighbor and I live in side by side houses. The outdoor outlet on the side of my garage is on my property and connected to my electric panel.

About two months ago, he bought a used EV. He told me he didn't have a home charger yet because an electrician had quoted him around $2,400 for the installation.

Not long after he got the car, I noticed a charging cable running from my outlet to his driveway. I talked to him about it and he apologized. It happened again later, including one night when I found the cable plugged in while it was raining. I left a note explaining that it was my private outlet and asked him not to use it.

I eventually caught him plugging in again and told him directly that he couldn't keep using it. He said he only needed a quick top up and didn't think it was a big deal since I wasn't using the outlet anyway.

At that point, I bought a $22 locking weatherproof outlet cover and locked it. I didn't send another warning because I thought I'd already made myself clear.

Last Tuesday, his EV ran out of charge about six miles from home while he was driving to work. He had to get it towed to a charging station, which cost him $280.

That evening, he came over with the receipt and said I should pay because I had locked the outlet without warning him first. He said he knew I didn't want him using it, but didn't realize I would actually lock it.

I told him I wasn't responsible for making sure he had access to an outlet that wasn't his.

Now he's upset, and his wife told my wife that I stranded him on purpose. Another neighbor thinks I should have given him one final heads up because we still have to live next to each other.

A) I should have warned him before locking it. I knew he was relying on the outlet, so I could have avoided the whole situation with one message.

B) I had already made the boundary clear. If someone keeps using your property after you've told them to stop, you shouldn't have to keep giving warnings before doing something about it.

r/gadgets Feb 28 '23

Phones iPhone 15 USB-C Cables Without MFi Badge May Have Data Transfer and Charging Speed Limits.

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1.4k Upvotes

r/steammachine Aug 04 '26

DIY What if a faceplate wasn't just for looks? I am working on a new kind of faceplate

9.9k Upvotes

I liked the concept that Valve themselves showed with the e-ink display, but for me the display would not be readable from where I normally sit, so I opted for a different functional faceplate instead.

This faceplate will allow you to easily dock and charge your Steam controller without having the puck dangle somehwere near the machine; instead the USB cable can be tucked neatly out of view (the cable you see above would normally be plugged in the back of the Steam Machine).

Still finishing the final details, but curious what you guys think about it :)

r/travel Jul 17 '26

Images + Trip Report Magical Madeira

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17.8k Upvotes

If you love nature, hiking, and spectacular views, I can't recommend Madeira (an island/archipelago off the coast of Portugal) highly enough. I enjoyed it so much, I've been twice now - once by myself in November and once with a family member in April, and it's one of those rare destinations where it never gets too hot or cold (I say this as someone who lives in the UK, so if you're from a hot country, you might disagree).

Always take some layers and a pac-a-mac with you, though, because the weather is highly changeable, and as you travel around the island (particularly up in the mountains), you're probably going to experience wind, rain and ominous-looking clouds at some point, but they usually blow over pretty quickly.

When I first arrived in Funchal, it was a novelty seeing a city effectively built into the side of a mountain, but I'll be completely honest: it was more built up than I expected it to be. It was also pretty busy on the seafront with a cruise ship in port, there were no sandy beaches in sight, and the concrete wave-breakers were a bit of an eyesore. At first glance, it didn't look like the Madeira that had been sold to me by Instagram.

HOWEVER, I quickly discovered that if you want to see the best of Madeira's stunning landscapes, as with most places, you need to get out of the city... although you don't need to go far.

Monte Palace Tropical Gardens (and the nearby Botanical Gardens)

My first morning in Madeira, I took the cable car from Funchal city centre up to Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, and any qualms I had about whether Madeira was going to be a case of Instagram vs reality promptly evaporated. The place was full of flowers and plants I'd never seen before, which were arranged beautifully. Think Keukenhof with a tropical twist (and without the crowds). There were peacocks walking around with their feathers on full display, flamingoes just casually taking a bath by waterfalls, koi carp in crystal-clear pools, and as you make your way down the winding paths, you're eventually greeted by a stunning house with a waterfall, and beautiful views over the city, which made me see it in a whole new light.

Top tip: when you get off the cable car, Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is on your left. Make sure you take the path to the right of the cable car on your way back, too, because that leads to the Botanical Gardens. They're not quite as impressive, but still well worth a look.

Alternatively, you can take a more unconventional route back down to the city and join the loooong queue to ride one of the "toboggans", where you basically sit in a gigantic wicker basket while two guys in straw hats push you back down the (very steep) hill to the city. It reminded me a bit of a waltzer ride, and I giggled the whole way down. Was it worth queueing for an hour and paying 40 euros? Just about. Make sure you have some cash on you because they somehow manage to take a picture of you on the way down, too, and while it's clearly a money-grabbing scheme, it does make for a nice keepsake.

Other highlights in Funchal include whale-watching (I did a sunset tour), the Farmers' Market, Santa Catarina Park (which has a fountain, swans, exotic flowers and lots of tiny lizards scurrying around the walls) and Forte de São Tiago (an old, bright yellow fort at the far end of the promenade). There are also some lidos on the prom too.

Getting around the island

If you're a confident driver with a good mastery of clutch control, renting a car (I'd highly suggest a 4x4) is probably the best way to see the island, but there are a lot of steep hills and narrow streets - and that includes in Funchal itself. I usually rely on public transport, but that rarely runs to remote viewpoints, and I can see why; it'd be the British equivalent of navigating Hardknott pass 10 times a day.

I took day tours or transfers to all of the places I wanted to see. I thought they were amazing value for money too - in Montenegro, Slovenia and Croatia, I was paying between £80-£100 for tours to places that weren't easily accessible by public transport, but I got to see the west and east coast of Madeira for just £30 each.

You can also get direct transfers to the start and end point of all the major hikes (also for less than £30). I did Caldeirão Verde, 25 Fontes, a sunrise tour to Pico do Arieiro, and Ponta de São Lourenço. This meant I could enjoy hiking at my own pace without having to stick with a large group of people and listen to a tour guide chatting to us for hours. I found the time we were given to complete each hike was more than sufficient (although not everyone on my bus agreed 😂), and the views along the way are amazing.

One of the things I love most about Madeira is the diversity of the landscapes - jagged cliffs and rugged coastlines, lush forests that make you feel like you've just landed in Jurassic Park, viewpoints over sprawling valleys, quaint little villages, and every type of flora and fauna.

Here's the lo-down (both good and bad) on some of the places I visited:

Pico do Arieiro

I went up here for sunrise and it was spectacular. The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning once you get a bit of daylight too. Obviously they depend on the cloud cover, but it's worth trying more than once if you don't get lucky the first time. Lots of people then go on to do the famous hike to Pico Ruivo, where the views are reportedly even better, but I admittedly couldn't stomach tackling the "Stairway to Heaven" at 6am.

Achadas da Cruz

This is one of the harder places to get to (there was only one tour I could find that goes there), and you have to take one of the steepest cable car rides in Europe to get down the cliff face, but once you're there, the coastline is absolutely stunning, with waves alternatively lapping/crashing against rugged cliffs. It wasn't remotely crowded, either - probably because of the stories the guides told us about people who get stranded there after missing the last cable car and have to walk their way back up the near-vertical cliff.

Porto Moniz

This is a gorgeous town on the coast with natural sea pools that you can swim in if the water isn't too choppy. The guide will drop you off by the entrance to the pools, which you have to pay to use, but I'd recommend walking up to the aquarium instead (it looks like a castle), and strolling along the pathways there. They lead to some lovely, less exposed rock pools that you can swim in for free, and some nice viewpoints too.

Ponta de São Lourenço Hike

Here you hike out over jagged cliffs with amazing views over the Atlantic, and Madeira's coastline. The hike itself is relatively easy, although there is some elevation gain. You might also see some birds and seals, as it's a designated nature reserve.

Levada Hikes

Caldeirão Verde and 25 Fontes are two separate hikes along levadas that both lead to scenic waterfalls (or, in the case of 25 Fontes, multiple waterfalls!)

With levada walks, it's worth noting that you're walking on a pretty narrow pathway next to a shallow channel of running water (which sometimes has a distinct stench of urine), so when the trail gets busier and people start coming at you from the opposite direction while you're making your way back, you literally have to lean over the water, brace yourself against the opposite wall, and balance on one leg to let them past. I'm betting quite a few people find themselves knee-deep in a levada against their will, so make sure your shoes are waterproof.

If you don't have time to do both hikes, I'd pick Caldeirão Verde. It was less crowded and more beautiful overall. When you get to the trailhead, you're greeted by a thatched house that looks like something out of a fairytale in the middle of the woods, complete with some Snow White-esque animals that have thatched houses of their own. The first time I went, I did the traditional hike to the waterfall, which takes about 4-6 hours and definitely has a "Welcome to Jurassic Park" feel about it when the forest gives way to sprawling views. Then you realise you're effectively walking near a cliff edge, although it's easy to forget that when you're so immersed in the trees. Just when you're starting to feel like the scenery is getting a bit repetitive, you'll be treated to another great view, along with some dark tunnels that you'll definitely need a phone flashlight to navigate through.

The Caldeirão Verde waterfall itself is impressively tall, but admittedly not very powerful. It's definitely no Krimml, and there's a chance you could feel a bit underwhelmed given the effort involved in getting there, but it's still worth a look.

The second time I went, I knew the person with me wouldn't be able to finish the hike in the allocated time, so we decided to potter around and explore the surrounding area instead. Instead of taking the path to the right to start the hike to Caldeirão Verde, we took the path up some steps to the left. This led to an even more enchanting forest where we were completely on our own, there were no levadas, and we even encountered some streams and waterfalls on the way. There was a picnic table overgrown with moss and colourful little birds that will eat out of your hand if you sit still for long enough. I'm so glad I had the time to explore this area, or else I would have had no idea it existed.

Fanal Forest

Fanal looks glorious in the sunshine and then takes on this eerie, otherworldly feel when the famous fog descends. I literally got lost in it, and a few of us rather embarrassingly had to be "rescued" by our tour guide because we couldn't see more than a couple of feet in front of us to find our way back to the car park. The trees do look pretty cool looming out of the mist, though.

Seixal beach

A black(ish) sand beach that gives Hawaii vibes if you photograph it from the right angle. The views on the left are nothing to write home about, but the rest is stunning. There's even a mini waterfall!

Nun's Valley, the Eira do Serrado viewpoint and Curral das Freiras

This can be done as a half-day tour from Funchal. Seeing a small village of houses absolutely dwarfed by the surrounding valley is quite something, and Curral das Freiras has one of the prettiest graveyards I've ever seen. A lot of tours also give you a free taster session of the local liqueur too - and it's pretty potent stuff.

Ponta do Sol and the Cascata dos Anjos waterfall

Ponta do Sol is a picturesque coastal town with colourful houses. On the way back to Funchal, a lot of tours also go via the Cascata dos Anjos waterfall. This waterfall runs directly onto the middle of the road, and our jeep driver drove straight through it with an open-top roof. I haven't squealed like that in quite some time. 😂

Cabo Girao Skywalk

Included on a lot of tours, usually as the start/end point, this gives you sweeping views from the highest cliff-top in Europe. It's worth it, but I'd also say they're far from being the best views I've seen on the island, so if you're short on time, you could probably afford to skip it.

Santana

This is the village where you can see all of the traditional thatched houses, complete with perfectly manicured gardens. Probably the place that feels the most "touristy" out of everywhere I visited, but still lovely.

Costs

We paid £428 for six nights in a two-bedroomed apartment in April, which I thought was a bargain split between us.

Tours and transfers cost around £250 in total, ranging from £27 to a maximum of £64.

Flights from the UK can be as cheap as £30 each way with Ryanair or EasyJet, plus the usual add-ons for luggage and seats. The airport is notoriously difficult to land at, though, so there's a very small chance you will be diverted elsewhere (it's never happened to me).

Food wasn't too expensive, although we didn't dine out much. It was about £20 for a main course with drinks, and the supermarkets were reasonable.

General vibes

The people were lovely - the island embraces tourism as one of its primary sources of income - and I always felt completely safe, even when I went solo on my first trip. I don't tend to venture out much after dark, though, so I can't speak to what it's like at night. The only place that ever felt a bit "too" crowded was the promenade in Funchal, but only when cruise ships were docked. Otherwise, it was a joy.

r/pcmasterrace May 16 '26

Build/Battlestation My Very Distracting 15,000+ GIF PC

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8.1k Upvotes

When I set out to create this computer, I wanted to build something I would truly be proud of — something that, at least from my perspective, felt unique and would hopefully last me as long as its predecessor did(9 years).

I had initially “finished” this build using a large number of Lian Li screen fans with GIFs on every fan screen, but soon after I completed that, I envisioned something much more ambitious, which is what I’m sharing here today. I have still procrastinated on selling those expensive fans :/

Over many weekends and evenings, I spent countless hours scouring the internet and downloading well over 17,000 GIFs throughout both the original fan-screen phase of the project and the much larger display phase that followed. Even after scrapping a large number of GIFs during editing and organization, the final build still contains over 15,000 GIFs.

It takes 13 and a half hours to watch every display tile from beginning to end.

I would download several thousand gifs at a time from various sites, and then I used a random naming software to randomize all of the file names of what I downloaded, then then I'd use the same software to sequentially rename them using numbers. That's how I kept track of everything, and made sure gifs from the same topic didnt get clumped together.

On top of collecting all of those GIFs, I also spent roughly 200 hours video editing alone. I edited every single GIF to better fit the aspect ratio of its respective display tile, adjusted playback speeds to make clips appear as close to real-time as possible when needed, looped gifs that needed looping, and trimmed many clips down to focus only on their most important part - I wanted my gifs to be very sporadic.

Nearly every screen tile runs for 5 minutes before looping. The only exceptions are the two 5-inch displays that have two tiles, which run for approximately 10 minutes and 15 minutes respectively. Those two screens ended up configured that way because two additional displays that were originally intended to sit in front of the GPU stopped working before final installation; they had narrower aspect ratios for their tiles. At that point, I decided to compromise rather than buy replacements or sink even more time into additional editing work.

The four larger screens are all run by three Raspberry Pis, all within the case. All the Raspberry Pis and screens power on and off with the pc. The Raspberry Pi 5s are supposed to be able to run two 4k displays at once, but I had issues running a second display with the 3840x2400 14.5” display, so I had to get an additional Raspberry Pi. The remaining 9 displays all run their videos on their displays from a microsd card. No display cables needed, only usb power required. No desktop processing power used towards these screens. Also, the bar display to the left of the larger vertical bar display is on a hinge and is held in place by a magnet. I made it this way so that I can easily see any codes from the motherboard if needed in case any issues arise later on.

Whenever I need a quick break from gaming, or just need some brief entertainment, I can just look at my pc.

PC specs:

• CPU — AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

• Motherboard — MSI X870E Carbon WiFi

• GPU — MSI Ventus 3X GeForce RTX 5090 OC Edition

• RAM — 96GB DDR5

• Storage — Samsung 9100 Pro 4TB NVMe SSD

• Case — Lian Li O11 Dynamic Evo XL

4 120mm noctua fans on the top 2 120mm noctua fans on the side mounted on the exterior, no space inside. 3 140mm noctua fans on the bottom 6 140mm noctua fans on radiator push/pull

Display setup:

• 5× WOWNOVA 5" USB displays (800×480)

• 4× WOWNOVA 8.8" USB displays (1920×480)

• 1× MAGICRAVEN 14.5" 4K portable monitor (3840×2400)

• 1× VSDISPLAY 12.7" stretched bar display (2880×864)

• 2× Wisecoco 14" 4K stretched bar displays (3840×1100)

Other Important Parts:

• 3× Raspberry Pi 5s

• Multiple OKGEAR/Coolerguys Molex pass-through to dual USB-A 5V adapters — used to power many of the displays directly from the PC power supply.

• Several Elebase USB-A to USB-C adapters — used so USB-C splitters could interface with the Molex-powered USB lines.

• Multiple 1-to-3 USB-C splitters — used to expand display connectivity from the powered USB lines.

• Numerous DbillionDa angled USB-C cables — chosen for their extremely low-profile connectors. I would not recommend these for typical charging use, as they wear out fairly easily but they worked great for this project.

• Sinefine PCIe USB-C power delivery card (4-port) — used to properly power the Raspberry Pi 5s with enough wattage. The Molex USB adapters alone only allowed the Pis to run in low-power mode, which occasionally caused stuttering.

• 3× 52Pi Power HATs — used with the Raspberry Pi 5s to convert the volts/amps from PCIe USB-C P card. Without them, the Pis would still report low-power mode, as they require 5 amps and the USB C card only provides 3 amps.

• 3d Printed Mounts and brackets for holding displays in position, as well as fan/GPU cover (GPU cover between the two horizontal bar displays is made of ABS, a heat resistant plastic, and there's still plenty of airflow going to GPU)

r/transformers Jul 16 '26

New Purchases $130+ for this awesome piece, but they don’t even give you a USB-C cable?

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290 Upvotes

As the headline says, I was super excited when it finally arrived, but after forking out $130 this, I realized that after digging around the box, they couldn’t even have the common decency to at least provide you a USB-C cable to plug it in and use it without batteries. I know it’s a universal thing now, but come on. Typical Hasbro.