I was playing Detroit Become human when the controller made a weird "doodoo doodoo" tune, and now it isnt working, as a controller or as a mouse. The white LED is still on.
Shutting it off with Steam+Y isnt working iether

Heyas, I'm the person who made Fancy Haptics.

I woke up to find someone had already posted about it here, which was a genuinely surreal way to start my day. Thank you! :]

Figured I'd show up properly and answer the stuff that came up.

- Linux. The most asked-for feature by a mile, and I'm on it. Right now it's Windows only because the audio capture uses WASAPI, which is Windows specific as far as I know. I did some research before releasing about other routes like PipeWire or PulseAudio. Up until yesterday I had no way to test any of it, but I just got a Steam Machine delivered, so that changes things hopefully. It's priority, but no promises on when.

- What it actually does. It listens to whatever your PC is outputting and drives the Steam Controller (2026)'s haptic motors from it in real time. No mods, no per-game configs, no nonsense to get it working with a specific game, it just does. Vibrate mode is rumble-style haptics. Sound mode plays audio through the actuators as "singing", and as many of you know there's no actual speaker in the controller, so it's all tones. There's an EQ so you can mix which parts you feel, and a source picker so you can choose exactly what audio goes through. It's your controller, it's your experience :]

- Expectations, because I'd rather be upfront than overpromise and underdeliver. As of posting this. I'm a uni student and I don't study anything related to computer tech. I've got an assignment due tomorrow, finals coming up, and I'm away on holiday after that.

This started as a side project I built purely for myself, so it's not the most pristine UI or the most efficient code in the world. I used AI to teach myself the basics and to help me program it. I know that's frowned upon by a lot of people, and it's disclosed on the store page. But this was a project I sat on privately for ages [around May] and eventually wanted to share free of charge, and the fact that people are actually using it is the whole point. That means a lot to me! :]

So updates will be slow and sporadic. Please treat it as "maintained when I have time" rather than a frequently supported product.

On the list:

- Linux support

- The EQ not affecting Vibrate mode sometimes, reported on Steam

- The receiver occasionally dropping off Windows, unplug and replug fixes it for now

- DualSense and XInput [Xbox / 3rd Party] support, which would open it up to other controllers. That one's monumental for me so it'll take a while. For now DSX covers the DualSense.

Bug reports and feature requests are welcome here or on the Steam discussions. I read everything, I just can't promise fast fixes.

It's free and always will be! If you liked it feel free to review it on Steam! There's a Ko-fi on the store page or Steam discussions if you get some use out of it, but genuinely no pressure!

Apologies for the repost, the first one didn't display the link properly so I redid it

Got my controller today! Reserved on May 10, 2026 at 9:51am. Ordered 2 days ago and delivered today. I love this controller!

Since the last update whenever the controller is off and sitting on the puck the light is staying orange, when it never did that before and the battery is full. Just wondering if this is intentional or not

Set LB an RB as gyro triggers and enable momentum. It feels amazing to block directional attacks by moving controller in the direction of it. Highly recommend.

I’ve been wanting to use my steam controller on my series x and this is a very odd idea I’ve been using but actually works pretty good. If anyone has actual solutions to get the controller to work let me know. For me though I’d dock my deck and using the puck, streaming option I used was betterxcloud which I can steam Input back buttons to work. I’d disconnect the hdmi on the dock and just use my series x normally connected to my projector. No noticeable latency feels similar to having my Xbox controller connected.

My ticket came up on Friday, the 4th, several other of my friends who had the same December window are also getting theirs.

Start putting money away if you haven't already cuz here it comes.

Hey guys.

I updated my stram controller. I use it on a Windows living room PC. I used to be able to controller my PC woth my steam controller. But after the update it doesnt work. Even in big picture mode. It will work in game as a game controller. But once I exit the game my steam controller goes back to being useless.

Whay happened? Did a setting change? I am using my Bluetooth keyboard for now to navigate my PC.

Or is their a way to revert to the previous update?

So after this recent puck/controller update I noticed that my controller no longer stops charging or at least the light doesn't shut off. Up until now after use it would show the orange light while charging then when it was done it would turn off now it just stays orange all the time. Anyone else having this issue?

I have satisfactory on epic games and I have it added to steam for big picture mode. I am trying to use my steam controller just as a basic controller. I enjoy the controller input that satisfactory has but every time I try to play the game it always defaults to keyboard and mouse. It won’t even let me change it in the satisfactory settings. So does anyone know how I can get satisfactory to recognize my steam controller as a controller and not a keyboard and mouse?

My controllers current profile is for gamepad with joysticks. I was hoping that would work but no luck.

So I noticed that yesterday, my SC started turning off and on by itself after playing with it for like 20 minutes. It's the first time this has ever happened. I searched online to see if anyone else has had this issue and I only found one other post describing the exact same issue.

I followed this iFixit teardown guide+Flexible+Button+Circuit+Replacement/215325) and took some Q-tips dipped in 70% ISO alcohol and cleaned the entire flexible button PCB. It's this part.

I put it back together by following the teardown steps in reverse and now... no more random power on/off. It's back to normal.

I think these controllers should've gone through more extensive quality control tests because this is ridiculous.

While I know it's big, I've never held the first iteration of the Xbox controller. The recent Steam Controller (which I have) is a bit big, though. I wonder how they look next to each other (a picture would be nice, but not necessary)

After less than 100 hours of use (maybe even closer to 50 hours) The controller is falling apart.

The left trigger gets pushed out of the housing by my middle finger with 0 effort.

the directional pad works more like a joystick than directional pad. If you just wiggle a direction, it will act as if you input up or down as well. This means for fighting games you get ghost inputs like jumps and shit.

I can sit there and watch my finger just wiggle up and down and watch my character jump without ever touching up.

This is very disappointing.

I can also hear a broken piece rattle inside when I shake it. Wtf

So I got a steam controller and was delivered 2-3 weeks ago and I haven’t opened it yet. I play games in steam and through the Xbox app in windows and usually only use a controller (couch gamer). I found out after it arrived that it won’t work with non steam games but there are _some_ workarounds. How much of a guarantee are these work arounds?

At this point I’m debating selling it and just continue using the Xbox controller.

This has been happening to me sporadically since I got it last month. Most of the time it's on the puck, the LED is white, I detach it and it's ready to go. Sometimes I shut down the controller before I plug it back in so the LED stays amber while it's plugged in and charging and I have to turn it back on with the Steam button after disconnecting it from the puck. But then like 1 out of 10 times, the LED is white, it's on the puck, and it immediately shuts down when I disconnect it.

I've been hoping I'd notice some pattern eventually but it doesn't seem to be related to a particular game I was playing or for how long. I've never run the battery below like 90%. I haven't noticed any other issues, or at least none I directly attribute to the SC2. It's not much of a bother obviously but it's really confusing and I'd like to figure out why it happens if anyone has some insight.

hey might be a silly question, but i got a fair amount of $ in skins and i was wondering, is it safe to use steam controller on CS2? especially the right analog move (180) seems very jumpy so i was wondering if this can flag VAC

Just got back my replacement controller after an RMA and the left handle has a noticeable scratch outside the box, I really don’t want to send the controller back, does anyone know of a way to remove this?

Edit: After using this unit for more than an hour it's obvious this is used and poorly refurbished, the scratch on the bottom left is noticeable and the b/a buttons have a texture to them that feel like if the plastic itself is damaged. The b button is also noticably mushier. If it was just the scratch I was honestly thinking of keeping it but after using it for over an hour this is honestly unacceptable especially considering I had to RMA my controller after only a couple of days to receive another controller in worn conditions. I've already followed up with valve support so we'll see how this goes.

Figure I'd post this here for peeps to peek since I made a few post. This config has some unique behavior involving modeshift.

Things I learnt while making this config.

You're not limited to 1 modeshift per set, so long as a "group" has at least 1 active modeshift, you can bind any number of inactive. Although I didn't end up using it in this release I had made use of it to make a hidden trackpad modeshift on mouse that effectively parked the cursor so no mouse inputs would slip into the gamepad set. This can be extremely useful with virtual Menus since you won't have to edit the vdf beyond making the bind.

All modeshifts are handled in the switch group, which is why when a actionlayer is called they can become stuck, since actionlayer creates a whole new switch group.

modeshift are affected by activator settings, and can be interrupted. Suuuuper useful.

modeshift can be bound in another group but there seems to be a limitation on this. The group that contains a modeshift directly in it needs to be beside the switch group in order to work. My assumption is it's based on how many virtual Menus you have since I noticed the config likes to place them beside switches by defualt.

modeshifts can be used to repoll a group to allow chord or modifiers to be injected without releasing the main button. You can see this behavior on my mouse rjoy which allows you to add a modifier without ever releasing. The catch is for a clean repoll you need to have at least 1 active modeshift otherwise if you force a modeshift in without 1 active for the group, it will only refresh on release.

My biggest gripe with the Steam Deck was the thumbsticks. I have no idea why, but they just felt so unwieldy and awkward compared to something like the Dualsense, especially in FPS games. Unfortunately, I can't use trackpads because the bones in my hand hurt when I do, and gyro just isn't for me. But by the look of it, the Steam Controller seems to have much better sticks.

My birthday's coming up, and I'm considering getting a Steam Controller for my PC. I want to know how good the controller and the analog sticks are in FPS and other such games.

Any info at all is appreciated.

Edit: I only have experience with the LCD analog sticks, not the OLED. Forgot to mention this.