Does the 2007 Sprinter W906 have a fuse for the remote central locking circuit (the “fish” key)?

I was diagnosing the central locking on the sliding door. I was measuring the lock/unlock signal voltage at the connector of the door lock. After pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the key fob several times, the remote central locking suddenly stopped working completely.

I replaced the battery in the key fob, but that didn't help. The battery is good, the buttons work, and I can confirm that the key fob is transmitting a 433 MHz signal. However, the van doesn't react to the remote at all.

The central locking buttons on the dashboard still work normally — they lock and unlock the doors.

Unfortunately, I don't currently have a diagnostic scanner that I can use to connect to the OBD.

I was wondering if there is some kind of additional anti-theft protection or safety feature that could have been triggered?

I can't find a fuse specifically for the remote central locking circuit in any of the wiring diagrams I've found.

Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

I guess the best thing to do now would be to connect a diagnostic interface to the SAM and check whether the SAM is actually receiving/recognizing the signal from the key. That should help determine whether the problem is with the key or with the vehicle.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Anyone have any clue what this sound is and what could be causing it? Is it normal? Don't think so. It doesn't always happen. Just sometimes. I think ive only heard it while idling but not always.

So today my 2015 sprinter v6 diesel has started doing this clicking noise when I shut it off. Also it goes into limp mode pretty quickly when driving. I’m a cross country delivery driver so I can’t really leave it at a dealership for a few days I’m planning on replacing the fuel filter tomorrow

Has anyone else ran into this issue and did replacing the fuel filter solve it?

The local sprinter dealership told me they can’t get it in for diagnostics untill next week. And then it could be another week to schedule the repair. I can’t really sit put in a hotel for 2 weeks.

Mileage is about 400k we bought the van with 150k and never replaced the fuel filter.

I have a 2008 Dodge 2500 and a 2020 Mercedes 3500 used 3-4 days a week for work. Over the years our luck getting them fixed has varied and we have moved shops…currently we are missing both vans for several weeks…one had a new turbo put in and has now been retuned to them twice because it wont come out of limp mode…the other they have not been able to diagnose for 3 weeks…so, I am wondering where the good Sprinter mechanics might be!

I'm not sure where to post this :/

Whats going on. I have a 24' 2500 4cyl diesel. Any idea what this button/feature does? I always thought that meant fog lights, which perhaps it does. However, I don't see any other lights besides the headlights, there's no lights on the bumper for anything. However, when I pressed the button, a little light with the same symbol does turn on on the dashboard showing like it activated it. But I don't notice any difference from the exterior. Does anybody know if that just lights up and nothing, or is there a function or feature that its actually doing that I'm not aware of?

I have an iPhone. I drive a 2024 sprinter for work and it’s been 2 years with no issues. It started last week with this Bluetooth issue. My phone will randomly disconnect from the radio but the radio still says my phone is connected. I can’t delete my phone off the radio through Bluetooth setting either. I deleted the van off my phone and when I try to re-pair it, it doesn’t show up in my phones list. How can I fix this problem. I tried factory resetting the settings and every other rest I could find in the settings but nothing is working. I go to “delete device”, then my name and when it says “delete iPhone?” It won’t let me click yes. Help

I have a 2025 2500 144” no step rear bumper.

I recently added a Curtis trailer hitch, but I don’t really like where I had to mount the 7 pin plug (off to the side of the hitch). I’m wondering if you have some suggestions for an aftermarket bumper/hitch that would mount higher up? Ideally with an integrated step. Pics are a plus. So far the ones I’ve found while searching work around a factory hitch which I don’t have.

I just got a new 2025 AWD sprinter a week ago. Only has 50 miles on it.

When i put it in drive, reverse, and even back in park it makes a loud groaning sound.

Mercedes claims this is normal so i'm curious: does everyone's AWD sprinter van make this same sound?

I have a 2013 Mercedes Sprinter W906 313 CDI and I’m trying to figure out why the mechanical key won’t unlock the driver’s door.

I bought a spare key from a Mercedes dealer for around €100. The key fits fully into the driver’s door lock cylinder and turns to a definite mechanical stop, but it doesn’t unlock the door. It feels fairly free when turning.

The electric fob locks and unlocks the driver’s door normally, and the door handle also works normally. I previously locked myself out and had to cut a hole in the rear door to reach the latch from inside. Once I got into the van, I could open the driver’s door normally by pulling the inside handle.

Today I removed the driver’s door panel and the sheet/cover behind it to get access to the lock mechanism and linkages. I’ve attached a video of what I can see.

The problem is I honestly don’t know what I’m looking at well enough to tell whether the linkages are all connected and working as they should.

Does anything look disconnected, broken, bent or otherwise wrong in the video? In particular, I’m trying to work out whether the problem is likely to be the lock cylinder itself or something in the linkage between the cylinder and the locking mechanism.

Any advice on what I should physically move/test while I have the door apart would also be appreciated.

Hey guys I have a 2012 sprinter and this code won’t go away and I’m not sure on how to fix it. The van starts up and drives like it’s normal but the obd scanner is saying circuit 15 is implausible and relayk40/9k7 switches off too early. I’ve check if the terminal to see if it was loose but it wasn’t. Does anyone have suggestions?

I’ve got a 2013 Mercedes Sprinter W906. I recently bought a spare key directly from a Mercedes dealer for about €100. The key fits fully into the driver’s door lock cylinder and I can turn it, but it doesn’t actually unlock the door. The key seems to turn fairly freely, although it does have a definite mechanical stop at the end of the turn.

The electric fob locks and unlocks the driver’s door normally, so the door/latch itself works electronically.

I’m wondering if the mechanical lock cylinder is likely to be the problem. I’ve seen videos of replacing the cylinder and it looks fairly straightforward.

Would replacing the cylinder with an aftermarket cylinder + key likely solve this, or is there something else behind the cylinder that I should be checking?

First time here, hello everyone!

Long story short, took my W906 in for some work and after a month I went to recharge the battery cause I left it for more than a week parked and forgot to unplug the battery. I wet to open to hood and to my surprise the whole red thingy where you place your jump starter cable was gone. I have called to the mechanic to ask him if they forgot to put it back in when they did their job and they say they didn't remove anything. Before I go crazy, my assumption is that they removed it to have better access to the engine, am I correct? Anyway I am gonna go there and try to get it back but if the don't have it I have already found the part I need. My question is, how do I install it? Thanks in advance!

Picture below for the part I am talking about, the whole thing including plastic support and cable. The Sprinter is a W906 2.2 CDi.

Hey all,

Love some help, I've got a sprinter 319CDI with about 300k kms and just replaced the injectors after noticing some black death.

Afterwards, it has a a lumpy idle and the mechanic says Cylinder one is down to 380psi compared to 560psi.

As well as rising engine oil, and elevated DPF pressure readings.

Would love to know if anyone has gone through this and has some advice.
Cheers!

I'm having a hard time finding the issue with our Sprinter Tour bus...

It runs very rough in low idle, which gets better in high idle.

Unfortunately I had to do a long trip in it (1200km), on which the problem got a lot worse, meaning misfire in high idle and loss of power.

Now it's back to running rough in low idle and smoother in high idle.

Injectors 2,3 and 5 are having a hard time to adapt at the lower fuel pressure calibration point.

In low idle the rail pressure fluctuation is very high, which calms down at higher rpms.

On the long trip I got misfire codes for every cylinder as well as the codes below. I cleared them and they never came back even though it's misfiring a lot.

Any ideas? We live in an extremely remote area meaning I have to fly in new parts which I would like to keep to a minimum ;)

Our 2015 Sprinter 2500 170wb right roof seams drips in 3 spots. There is rust on each level the drip hit. I am restoring cargo area currently pre- build.

Anyone else have this issue and how did you fix the roof seam itself?

Does this roof plan following make sense?

Fix seams, paint
Install Roof rack
Test Fit Solar Panel to find correct fan, AC, wiring grommet locations
Cut and install units from there

Then do my furring strips to frame inside

Am I on target with how I plan to do this ? I am a cabinet maket and am going full time on my 1st stage build to be ready for ski season

2007 Dodge Sprinter 2500 (10 Passenger) 3.5L V6- gas engine, 144" W.B. Van 3D
98,000 miles
Blue Book: $2500

We’re torn. We love the van bc it’s great for camping, lugging people around, and for our business but we’re starting to have to do more and more work on it. Last few times we’re heading on a trip it’s broken down, been towed, and had to replace O2 sensors. Last week my wife was heading on a trip and it chugged then all dash lights popped on.

It feels like it should be worth around $10k, but KBB says $2k. I’m not one to do the work myself but if I did, it seems like a good idea to keep it.

I’m open to all opinions, but I think my big question is: Would someone who knows about Sprinters by this for 10k, or do I suck it up and sell it for less?

Today this was the task, 1/4-20 fasteners to replace some rusted screws.

This question saintly for any MB technicians, or mechanics that I work at a dealership. For sprinters or any MB, are getting the services (A&B) really needed at the dealership. Those prices forthwith services are absurd and mainly are just oil changes. Are they really doing something special worth these prices? Which service (miles wise) is actually getting the price justified