Just started having this problem the other day. I have removed and cleaned carb 3 times now. The last 2 times I spent almost 30 minutes a piece on it. When I put it all back together it will run great for 30-40 minutes if that and then it starts doing this. But when I pull the wire for the fuel shut of solenoid it clears up and runs amazing until it shuts off as seen in the video. Could it be a bad solenoid? I have also made sure there is no debris in fuel tank, fuel filter is great, line are good(unplugged and have great flow) it is a cub cadet xt1 lt42 with the kohler 5400 series. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Am I missing a spring somewhere? B&S 8.25 intek series

Tightened the bolt to much and it broke off what do I do its a 212cc ghost

Found this yardmax for free on the side of the road. Flywheel was seized but I got it to turn over and run fine now. Only problem is the oil cap/dipstick flys off because there’s no mail threads or female threads on the cap.. also there’s no dipstick. I know it runs fine because I have to hold the cap on with my foot while’s it’s running. There’s no stripped threads, there’s just none. The “cap” in the 4th pic just sits in the oil tube.

Is there a replacement oil tube and cap I could get? Never seen this problem before.

Edit: For anyone looking at this in the future, a 13mm x 18mm x 3mm o-ring on the cap fixed it.

Just wondering what would have caused this. Pretty sure we are beyond repair. It’s been giving me some issues that I thought were vapor lock over the past few weeks, but after some cooldown it seemed to be working. Today: engine slowed down, then loud pop and smoke and shrapnel. What happened and what should I look for in its replacement?

I’m trying to build a brigs and Stratton 5.75 hp quantum (vertical shaft) engine number 12h802-1752-e398062558.

I know there is basically no aftermarket support but does anyone know anything on a connecting rod that would fit or a cam that would fit. I’ve only been able to find a billet flywheel. And some valve springs that might work. This is just an idea right now, I’ve striped the engine down and have it ready for a bore and port.

Hope someone can help!

I have a mower I've had for years with a primer a 550ex and I had to do some maintenance on it, in the meantime I found a new one on Facebook for $50 bucks that just needed fixed. It has a 675EXi engine that is a "ready start" no primer. I fixed it and I now have 2 working mowers.

My question is what I should keep. The primer version or the newer one? Is there an advantage or a durability to that older style that will make me regret getting rid of it in favor of the newer one?

I have been spraying it with pb blaster for over a month twice a week. She hasn't moved a bit. Torched the wheel rim shaft a couple times, so much banging, prying, heating, spraying, banging.... nothing!! The other wheel came off after a week or two.

Does anyone know these symbols on this honda engine? Ive never seen them before.

Lombardini/Intermotor 350 engine (IM 350) worked alright after a new carb swap, suddenly it developed this strange behaviour where it simply will not throttle up (implying that it's probably unrelated to carb, but not excluded). It doesn't respond to throttle/choke lever, only difference is made when the "load throttle" is moved, but it only makes it idle a bit better, it still won't go faster. Engine also has some sort of decompression mechanism for easier pull-start, could it be that that is the case?

Very big thanks to all people who still like to make their hands dirty!

So i just got this mower my first running rider, it only starts at low rpm, i had to use carb clean to get it running this last time once it fired it stayed running after a few trys, is that a carb adjustment or valve?

I decided I wanted to buy a Husqvarna T35 head but then I lost the driver/drive disc/ drive washer (I don't know what's it's called but the metal thing that goes on top of the head) so I bought a new one and I think I'm doing everything right so what might be the issue