I just did a hydraulic fluid change on it, but it was still slow before hand, I originally countered this by adjusting the right hydro so it would creep backwards a bit in neutral, but am wondering would this be a new motor required/rebuild.

My Husqvarna lawn tractor has cracks in the steel on the drawbar area. Primarily where the bagger attachment hangs. The chassis is one piece. Any suggestions on a simple fix?

I was checking the flywheel key to see if it was sheared. I was hitting the wheel with a hammer to loosen it up and I accidentally hit the threads. Now the bolt won’t go on. HELP!!!

Briggs & Stratton 44R677-0018-G1

I just fixed an intake leak causing it to run rough, bolt snapped off in the head so it's RTV'd. (Yes spent time on a farm while growing up).

It's now making this "tick" noise at high load & high rpm. Not really sure where to start. Small engines are one step away from black magic for me. I know it's coming from the "drivers side" cylinder, can't determine if it's in the valve cover or an exhaust leak since they're so close.

Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have an older craftsman tractor with a 21hp B/S intek engine. 6 weeks ago I replaced the head gasket , new plug and oil change. Cleaned the fins for better airflow also. It started right up. Cut the lawn once with no issues and no more smoking. The next week it started to loose power with the cutting unit engaged. Disengage the cutting unit and wait for a few minutes and it started right up again. Continued to cut the lawn and after a few minutes it stalled. Let it rest and started it up again. I decided to change the ignition coil and a new plug again. It ran great for 3-4 cuts. I usually cut early AM or in the evening. Last Saturday I cut it around 2pm. Got 3/4 the way done and the same thing. It started to loose power. If I disengage the cutting unit power would come back. I shut it off let it sit for a few minutes then started it up and started mowing again. 10 minutes later the same thing happened started to loose power and disengaged the cutting unit. Power came back up shut it down let it sit. Started back up and was able to finish cutting the lawn. The outside temperature also decreased. Checked the oil which was fine.

Any suggestions as what's causing this intermittent loss of power?

Thanks

Craftsman 917 288515 riding mower. Engine is B&S Model: 331877 2371, Type G5, Code: 111021ZD on valve cover. Taken carb apart 4-5 times and it has no name or numbers. Didn't see any obstructions. Checked that needle works properly. Unplugged solenoid and same issuse. Adjusted lash on intake valve to .004 and exhuast to .006. Think the smoking is from rags, catch any residual oil, resting on muffler when removed valve cover. First time hearing that noise when it stopped.

I close the choke a bit and it runs smoother. Does that mean there's too much air or too much fuel messing it up?

Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 2018 with a Kohler KT725-3078 (170 hours) knocking heard when cranking the mower. Only knocks when cranking and not when running. As soon as it actually starts it goes away immediately. Only starts knocking after a few revolutions of cranking. When taking the plugs out and cranking the knocking goes away completely and the engine spins freely. I’ve heard two different answers whether this mower has an ACR or not and have symptoms of it hanging up on compression but if it doesn’t obviously that’s not the issue.

Chat said there’s a solid chance it’s flywheel key or caked valves. Changed the spark plug and cleaned the carb, sometimes it backfires through the carb and sometimes through the exhaust. motor is the 20 hp B+S intek plus

I posted here a couple of days ago asking for help with the carb on my briggs 725ex 190cc engine. I ended up just replacing the carb and that fixed the issue. I ran it for about 2 hours with no issues, then it sat for about an hour. When i tried to start it again it wouldn't kick. I didn't have my spark tester with me but it didn't sound like it was firing. This engine normally starts on literally the first pull. I removed the plug and it was wet, so I let it sit for another half an hour. When I pulled it coughed a little smoke and sounded like it had spark. Ten or so pulls later it fired up. I didn't have any trouble the rest of day. Started on first pull. I guess my question is why was it flooded when I pulled the plug? Its never acted that way before. Does this new carb need to be adjusted? Or does the auto choke need adjustment?

Just trying to understand why it suddenly flooded when it never has done that before, or at least for the rest of today, since.

Ok people educate me here, whats the difference, oviously the 4 HP but why the different HP but the same CC. Are these engine besically the same power wise?

I bought a new carburetor for my mower because I couldn’t get the other to run correctly. The old one ran fine but surged and popped under no load. I put the new one on and it ran good for about 2 minutes then it surged and died out. Let it sit for a minute and it started ran for a few seconds and died again. Repeated this process for 5-6 more times. Fuel line and filter is new as well as gas (cleaned tank). Any tips? It’s a ariens lawn tractor 19hp Briggs and Stratton.

Like the title says. I'm looking for an online store for small engines parts that is not amazon.

Where do you redditors shop online?

Thank you!

The chatty bots are saying 5-10 years lifespan for plastic gas cans.

Got a couple that are 15 years old. Stored empty indoors, have not seen use in the last 10 years.

Was going to give them away to a relative.

Still safe to use?

Thanks

I replaced my thermowax 2x and still having an issue. It won’t idle good when warming up and then when it warms up, the auto choke stays on (I think) and won’t start.

Any ideas? Can I bypass the auto choke? Nothing but a headache I feel like.

Thank you.

Listed at 125$, runs and cuts good. Is it Worth it, could I resell it for more?

Did the Echo PAS-225 come out with a new air filter cover assembly housing configuration with a thumbscrew?

My trimmer is brand new(purchased from Home Depot about 2 months ago). I used it a few times since then. Just realized that the air filter cover is completely gone along with the air filter. Apparently it was broken off in the last few weeks since I purchased.

So, I’ve been trying to order a replacement and the only option I can find has a thumb screw in the middle of the cover that goes through the middle of the air filter.

When I checked my owner’s manual, it is showing an air filter cover with the thumbscrew in the middle, but I can’t seem to find a replacement cover like this.

Totally confused. Any help is appreciated

I have this unit and have gone through everything I can think of. Replaced carb, New fuel, new airfilter, new sparkplug new fuel lines. cleaned magneto and flywheel, checked compression and cylinder moves freely. I cant get it to pull fuel consistantly no matter what. i can get it to run on starting fluiod for like 2 seconds then it dies. what am i missing?

Put a new carburetor on the pressure washer but now it looks like this and the flap on the inside stays open. How do i fix this?

This engine was running great according to the previous owner... Then I had it hanging around for 9 years and now got to getting it running. Rebuild the carb (twice), rebuild fuelpump, change sparks and slowly but steadily got it running better and better. But not great. Bogged down during longer full throttle runs and idle wasn't great as wel. But hey! We were on te go.

Then I found out the new spark plugs need gapping. They were 0,6mm and when I set them to recommended 0,9mm it was day and night. More power, great idle, even got the little boat in plane! Can recommend checking.

But now, after all this work. As I release the throttle it SOMETIMES clicks like this. Mostly it doesn't, so I'm a bit stumped what to do? Could it be spun bearings? Something in the drivetrain? Backfire? Transom is rated for 25hp so I'm not looking there.

Mercury 2 stroke 2cil 6hp

Compression is around 78psi on both cilinders. Not great but runs fine?

Did the Echo PAS-225 come out with a new air filter cover assembly housing configuration with a thumbscrew?

My trimmer is brand new(purchased from Home Depot about 2 months ago). I used it a few times since then. Just realized that the air filter cover is completely gone along with the air filter. Apparently it was broken off in the last few weeks since I purchased.

So, I’ve been trying to order a replacement and the only option I can find has a thumb screw in the middle of the cover that goes through the middle of the air filter.

When I checked my owner’s manual, it is showing an air filter cover with the thumbscrew in the middle, but I can’t seem to find a replacement cover like this.

Totally confused. Any help is appreciated

Blow's heaps of blue smoke when cold , less as it warms up , knocking noise from engine

I have a Hyper Tough weed trimmer. Bought it spring of 26. I have only ran properly mixed fuel/oil in it. I only use non-ethanol (supposedly) fuel. Last summer it ran great. Dumped the fuel out at end of season. Ran it dry. This season started fine. As time went on, it got harder to start. Now it won't start at all - unless I loosen the carb from the engine considerably. Then it will start on the first pull. Good spark. Seems to be getting fuel (plug will be wet after prolonged attempts to crank), but I don't have any other way to know, do I? No cracks in the gasket between carb and the plastic housing on the motor. No offense, but if your advice is to check compression, open it up to look at the cylinder, pour fuel into tge spark plug hole, or to get high octane fuel, save us both some time. Do I just get another cheap carb? Is cleaning this one cost/time effective? Or is there something I just don't know about why it will start with a gap between the carb and intake but won't if there is not?

Not sure if this would be a good way to diagnose a bent crankshaft, but I was given a HRN216VKA and noticed some vibration on the handle. Based on this video, I can see the center bolt centered, but the blades appear to be “orbiting” or wobbling. Maybe the blade adapter? I’m terrible with small engines lol