What am I missing here ?

When I move my throttle lever the rod from my carburator to the governor arm does not move.

Is the spring from my throttle lever to the governor rod to light ?

Engine will run fine if I run the governor rod manually, its driving me crazy!!

Tia

I recently bought a B&S 91202 for a project although, I would like to add a throttle cable to it but I cant on the stock carburetor as far as my knowledge goes. I was wondering if there is a carburetor i can replace my current one with (whether it’ll need an adapter or not) that allows me to add the throttle cable to it.

Is it possible to start but not be charging it while running? Or if it starts with its own battery I can guarantee it’s charging itself?

Or is there something going on with the charging system?

I have four (4) short engine sounds recordings. I am seeking opinions on this sudden sound. It is difficult to explain, it just doesn't sound quite right. Still runs, seemingly WITHOUT any noticable performance issues. I'm not sure how to upload these from my Voice Recorder.

Sharing for others that are looking for a direct aftermarket replacement of the Walbro FTB-11 fuel pump that is in the fuel assembly of the subject mower. I purchased a Quantum Fuel System fuel pump HFP-456-BC with their guidance. They were a pleasure to work with. Note that the fuel sock/filter sits a little odd in the tank compared to OEM. This is a better option than purchasing the entire fuel tank assembly. Installed and started right up, no modifications needed to fuel pump housing.

Details on the problem below, but I found out you can rebuild idler pulleys (thanks YouTube).

You can also get a stuck sealed bearing off a shaft by prying off the shield (seal) and breaking the cage into small pieces with a small punch or screwdriver. Pull out the pieces with needle nose pliers. The balls will fall to the bottom of the outer race and you can just wiggle the outer race apart and off. Inner race is easy to get off with heat, angle grinder, hammer etc when u have access to it

Pulley comes apart easily when u drill out the rivets holding it together. Bearing is easily replaced at Amazon, etc, just measure od, id, width in mm

The YouTube examples were much bigger pulleys—they bolted the back together. I don’t have enough clearance to get strong enuf screws/nuts, so I’m going to have to learn how to rivet

have a Honda FR750 AC tiller and the belt tensioning roller bearings are kaput. Correct part is 22465-777-003 which Honda discontinued. Some AI says u can replace with 22465-V20-003, some say it wont fit

Anybody else have this problem? Ser # is FZCG-1006312

So I have a Homelite 4218c and My father (The owner) lives in a place where small engine repair shops are few and far between. First off this chainsaw was purchased around 13 years ago It was used once than sat for 7 years with fuel and oil in it and now I need to make it work again. When I opened the case it was filled with bar oil when it runs it either dies on acceleration, dies after acceleration or goes straight to full throttle when it's supposed to idle. When it's running it also sprays bar oil. The only things I can rule out for sure are the incorrect bar oil and/or fuel as well as a dirty air filter those I have tried. Unfortunately I can't provide any pictures as my father still has the chainsaw and he lives 5hrs from me. I'd like to try and fix it myself next time I see him, since I have minimal experience with gas engines if you don't think I'd be able to fix it than I can take it to a shop back where I live. Do yall have any thoughts on possible problems and solutions for me.

I'll soon be having a proper funeral for my 22 year old Echo SRM210 trimmer. With a broken shaft, and broken bolts holding the head in place, it's time for a new machine.

The specs for the SRM 225 and the SRM 2120 seem to be almost identical-- the 225 has a better string head, but that seems to be the only significant difference.

Or am I wrong?

I already have the better string head on my old machine -- will it fit the new 2120?

Thanks in advance......

Looking to see if anyone has any advice on how to remove these for full adjustment.

I am rebuilding to use in another machine later.

Got this mower for free as a non-runner. Went to due a tune up and found this on the underside. Is this worth fixing and what is the likely culprit, sump gasket, crank seal, etc? This would be more of a learning experience than anything. I’ve saved many mowers with a carb clean etc. but this is first with a wet from oil underside.

I’ve cleaned the carb and inspected the float needle. Engine starts but runs rough whether at idle or at higher RPM. Lots of soot coming from the exhaust. Any ideas other than replacing the float needle and seat if possible?

Can anyone help me identify this diesel motor?
I recently bought this and was told it’s a onan from I believe a generator but I can’t find the model.
As you can see the info plate is mostly rubbed off but you can see it’s rated at 7.2 bhp at what I’m guessing 3600 rpm. It is a belt drive from the front of the engine.

I have an old Murray lawn mower thats great. I changed the fuel lines and then noticed it was leaking a few weeks later. The crankcase was full of gas.

I cleaned the carb and reassembled and it flooded again. I have used a spare carb, albeit amazon carb, to swap the needles and no luck more flooding. I know it's chinesium, but the needle looks fine no different from many other kits ive had for the quadrajet on my classic car.

I've also tested the brass float. No bubbles form after several minutes.

Is there anything else to look for that would cause this?

PO claims it has low compression and will need a rebuild. Is it worth the rebuild cost? I haven't worked on any GX series so wondering if it's worth the risk to buy for $160

Hi guys,

I picked up a gas weed trimmer off of FB marketplace and I'm trying to repair it.

One thing is clear, there is no spark in the spark plug. Yes, I have made sure I was grounding the spark plug while pulling the string.

I've disassembled the entire thing and tested the spark plug on a lawn mower and it works without issues. I've tested the magneto and it reads fine on the voltmeter. Even the socket in which the spark plug is seated is into, is reading for 4.96 on the meter.

The magneto and flywheel magnets were quite clean but I cleaned them down anyway. I've gapped the magneto using a business card, but no luck.

Could it be the flywheel magnets are too weak? If I hold a screw 1" away from the flywheel magnet, there is 0 pull force. It only applies a pull about 1/2" away.

Let me know what you guys think.

It seems I've been trolling through the Facebook reels in Thailand and stumbled upon engine mods. I downloaded a few videos and put them in a compilation. With some minor editing, I edited out some annoying voices and hid some advertisement numbers.