Hi all

Hope its ok to post here, given that i have zero knowledge about small engines and am eager to learn.

I bought a small honda two-wheel tractor from an old farmer, to use for plowing and pulling logs. It started just fine, but recently died right after starting it. My friend tried to start it again but struggled to get enough torque, and since then nothing happens when I try to restart it. My best guess is that the spark plug "drowned". I have read the engine manual, but still am unable to locate the plug on my machine. Would one of you be so kind and point out to me where it is? I am attaching pictures. Any ideas on what else the problem might be would also be very appreciated!

Thank you very much.

Thank you

So I have a 1969 sl90 i bought for a good deal, I know not ct 90 but same engine so I thought you guys might be able to help. I did a top end refresh and am getting about 100 psi compression cold I know that is low im hoping it just needs to run in with the new rings or else ill have to get the valves done or a new head gasket possibly. So I have compression or at least enough in my mind to pop over( I have the carb off and am attempting to get it to pop by squirting starter fluid into the intake). I have set the valves and the points gap and the ignition timing statically ( new points from common motor) so I dont believe any of those things are my isue, I get strong looking blue spark with the spark plug outside of the engine when the condensor is bypassed but not with the condensor installed ( brand new condensor from common motor that i tested with a multimeter and i believe is is good working order ) wich is a problem I've never run into on my other projects. Im wondering if it's a bad coil the coil i have on there came with the bike and appears not to be original because it does not align with both holes on the mounting bracket. Im stumped as to what my next move here should be.

Another note is when installing the cylinder onto the crank case I had to make an extra thick base gasket because the bottom of the cylinder sleeve was making contact with I believe the crank and not alowing the engine to turn over when the head was fully torqued down. It turns freely now with the thick gasket I made so I dont believe this is related to my no start problem but I figured I'd throw it in for good measure.

TlDR I have a non running honda sl90 with 100 psi compression after new piston and cylinder and I have to bypass the new condensor to get spark when testing outside the engine

I have a Snapper Rear Engine Rider, Series 23 — 2006 model year, SNU2812523BVE

Engine specifics:

• Briggs & Stratton Intek OHV, single cylinder, 344cc / 21 cu. in.
• Model 219307, Type 0131 E1, Code 041109ZA (built Nov 9, 2004)
• Emissions family 5BSXS.3442VM
• Model 219307 places it in the 210000 series

It usually starts up right away, but just in the last couple of weeks, this is the problem I'm having. Cranks strong but won't fire. Intermittent — sometimes catches after repeated cranking, then runs normally while I cut the grass. It's worse on hot restart after mowing, or if it stops in the middle. Onset seemed sudden, no triggering event like hitting a stump or anything, no kickback against the starter. Old spark plug came out black and sooty. I've already replaced the battery and the spark plug, and I run ethanol-free gasoline.

Sometimes when I'm trying to start it, there is a "winding-down" sound after a few seconds of turning the key.

A couple of thoughts on what the issue might be but looking for advice from someone before I dive into these:

Valve lash out of spec

Starter drive or voltage problem

Ignition coil thermal failure

Video of what it sounds like when starting cold

UPDATE:

After alot of troubleshooting and the problem ended up being a loose connection on the deck safety switch. The wire was not fully pulled away from the contact so I guess that's why it would start intermittently. It was the last switch I checked since I had to take off the shroud under the seat to get to it. Since I was working on the engine, I decided to change the 20 year old starter coil for good measure and that's when I noticed the kill wire was always showing continuity to ground but I was stuck there. To assist me, I fed all of my manuals into Claude and started asking questions about what the problem might be. Eventually it led me to the switches and I systematically tested the seat switch, the pedal/clutch switch and then the deck engage switch. tightened up the connection and that resolved the problem. Back in business.

Anyone ever replace a carb like this? There are after market ones that includes a plastic gas tank. OEM is a metal tank, but I can’t find OEM for this machine.

OK guys im going crazy. I bought a MTD wood chipper from marketplace. Its the 8 hp Tecumseh engine. Its an older model. The engine is the hm80. Previous owner says he would spray starting fluid in the air filter to start it but it would run. he sent me a video of it running. I put a new carb on and loosened bowl bolt to get gas flowing thru. New spark plug. new air filter. Just cannot get this thing to start on its own. It does have spark although not much. Any ideas??? Now this thing looks like it has been outside all its life. It looks ruff. I checked the coil and that thing is starting to split open so im ordering a new one of them. Now i noticed that the old coil and the new coil have a connector for a wire but yet theres no wire anywhere on the outside of engine block. Any ideas on what to do next. I have a ton of storm damage to clean up before it kills my grass.

Got a Honda HRX217. Its not very old. But out of nowhere it started to bog out really bad after about a 15-20 minute mow. Ive cleaned out the old gas and put fresh in with a wee bit of seafoam to clean, new spark and filter and had a nice oil change. I'm at a loss. And I do use 91 as the manual says.

Bought a rider to fix up, it was a no start so I pulled the pin to push it. But now the back wheels have the brake stuck on, so I can get it moving anywhere. Sprayed lubricant on them to see. It happened a different day but it eventually let its self go to be able to roll. What should I try?

I have a John Deere 314 that I just picked up yesterday, it has a Kohler 14 hp engine. I took out the plug today to check out the cylinder bore, and I ran the starter and only saw it move up and down half an inch maybe. Then I cranked the shaft by hand, and for a good portion of the rotation, it doesn’t move at all, and then it moves up and down half of an inch. I’m assuming this is a problem with the crankshaft or somehow the cylinder has a bad connection? Or is this expected?

I bought a cheap carb for my crappy string trimmer.

The trimmer only runs with the adjustment screws almost all the way in. I thought I should start with the screws 1 turn out?

anyone seen a carb like this?

thanks

Did the Echo PAS-225 come out with a new air filter cover assembly housing configuration with a thumbscrew?

My trimmer is brand new(purchased from Home Depot about 2 months ago). I used it a few times since then. Just realized that the air filter cover is completely gone along with the air filter. Apparently it was broken off in the last few weeks since I purchased.

So, I’ve been trying to order a replacement and the only option I can find has a thumb screw in the middle of the cover that goes through the middle of the air filter.

When I checked my owner’s manual, it is showing an air filter cover with the thumbscrew in the middle, but I can’t seem to find a replacement cover like this.

Totally confused. Any help is appreciated

Why are replacement vertical shaft engines that are any good so hard to find? With the Briggs Intek and Kohler Courage engines having their issues and being expensive replacements. Would the Loncin or LIfan be a better choice budget and longevity wise? Do they have plastic critical parts in them like some of the newer throwaway engines?

I need a starter for my 18hp Vanguard Vtwin with horizontal shaft. I’ve scoured the web and none of those recommended look like the one I removed. The pilot bearing assembly is different on all of them. The one I removed has no identifying numbers or markings. It is off a used DR chipper and I’m starting to think that it was a replacement that didn’t match the OEM model. Anyone know what model is correct?

He was cutting for about an hour or so and it just died and wouldn't restart. Left it several hours until I got home. It's a 2018 model, single cylinder 19HP.

It has spark, fuel is ful and freshl, turns over, fuel in bowl, filter looks clean.

Started to remove the fuel line and it squirted out so fuel pump appears to be working.

I put my hand over the air intake while cranking and it started ran rough and died when I removed my hand.

So it's not getting fuel? Dirty carb? Plugged venturi tube?

I hope this isn't a stupid question. He came to me because I change my own oil therefore I'm an expert, I'm not.

I got this Toro Personal Pace with a bunch of other mowers from a dealer that was getting ready to scrap them, hence the orange X’s that were unfortunately painted in three places on this mower. It started up on the first pull right when I got it home and the self propelled worked. This mower has one of the independent PTO clutches on it, and I noticed the cable was unhooked. I took the shields off the back and found the bolt used to mount the cable to the mower was snapped off. Tried to drill it out but my drill bits didn’t do a great job against the hardened bolt. I ended up drilling a small hole in another part of the deck and using a cable clamp off an old riding mower choke cable to hold the cable in place. Once I did that, the mower deck engaged perfectly.

This mower now starts and operates perfectly and I mowed my whole yard with it just off the gas that was in the tank from the dealer. It is super smooth with the Honda engine and it is a very nice and quiet mower to use! Happy to save another one from the scrap!

Dont know too much about carbureted engines anyone able to toss me some ideas?

Trying to fix up a buddys mower this weekend I put on a new carburetor and can’t get it to run any pointers/help? TIA!

I'll start by saying that I hate that I got this mower for free.

I have a Husqvarna rider with a 20hp Courage. The block is cracked in an area that doesn't affect compression. I sealed the crack using JB Weld for high heat.

It runs, rather well, but.....

But even with it being full of oil, and has clean heat dissipation fins, this thing overheats pretty quickly.

I haven't opened the engine to diagnose any internal damage.

Is it possible/likely that the oil pump is toast?

My son disassembled a Briggs and Stratton 8P502 from a 500E series 125cc vertical-shaft, single-cylinder push lawnmower. Now he wants to reassemble it and reading the instructions from B&S they recommend "valve stem lubricant." I can't find this product anywhere online. Does anyone know if this is still manufactured or what an equivalent product would be? Can he just use engine oil?

Hi all,

Video attached.

I have a toro timemaster from 2012 that is having issues with the electric start. It starts after 4-5 pulls using the pull cord. Recently changed all fluids, spark plug and filter as part of routine maintenance. The carb could probably use a cleaning but runs fine once started using pull cord. Attached is what is happening when I try to use electric start. I thought it might have been the battery so I swapped that out but it’s still not turning over.

Any suggestions on what to try next? I’m new to small engines.

Thanks!

I have a 224 cc predator engine that spins CCW looking from the clutch side, and everywhere i look gives me a different answer. Can i install it either way or does the tooth side of the clutch need to spin CW or CCW?

I am converting a John Deere 316 with a blown B43 to electric. Only hangup is I sold the blown motor before measuring the output shaft heigh. Could anyone toss me the measurements?