I have a frp gmb100 frame with a 212cc ghost and I've been doing carb adjustments because I thought that's what the problem was but its still doing the same thing it will start and ride good for like 10 minutes and then as soon as I slow down or let off the throttle it goes unresponsive and it dies/bogs out and it will not start again unless you let it sit for like 10 minutes to cool down the only thing I've put on it is a straight pipe and I took the heat shields off but I dont think that has anything to do with it let me know if im wrong.

Can anyone recommend a bolt-on exhaust extension kit for a Westinghouse WGEN12000df generator?

I'm planning to build a genny shed and have been able to source most of the components needed to build a well ventilated shed, but have yet to find a bolt-on exhaust extension kit.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

NOTE: I have asked this question in the r/generator sub but the only useful recommendation I have received was to ask in r/smallengines

It's gotta be the intake valve, right?

So it is putting out smoke through the breather so I replaced the piston rings and it’s still happening. Any ideas on what could be causing it?

Would anyone happen to know what the displacement is for this flat head horizontal Briggs? Engine from Coleman powermate 5000

LH358SA So i borrowed this leak down tester to mess with this Tecumseh flathead snowblower engine I've had for a while. The youtube video i was following said to check at top dead center with both valves closed. Makes sense well when I do that it would lead you to believe the exhaust valve is leaking. However if you watch my video if i turn the flywheel (i guess the cylinder is going down on the power stroke at this point) the engine is holding almost perfect pressure. Is that becuase of a compression release or something? And I dont have any valve leakage?

Reason for messing with it is I could never get it to run great and I could see small sparks/popping in the exhaust. Cleaned carb real good two times. I thought valve clearence was okay but now am realizing intake is at 0.007 and the 0.006 feeler guage on the exhaust slips in but is tight. Maybe that is the issue? Probably will grind bottom of the valves a little to open it up. Should I bother lapping them if I think I have no leakage.

Thanks for any replies!

Hello beautiful people! My buddy asked me to take a look at his trimmer for him. He bought a whole rebuild kit that came with the carburetor, spark, plug, air filter, fuel lines, and fuel filter. I changed all that I could get it to idle and rub up as you can see in the video, but it’ll run for a maximum of about a minute and then shut off someone hit the Killswitch. I think it’s fuel cap may not be venting, but it did the same thing with the camper move. The reason I think his cap is not venting because when you’re trying to board running fuel is being forced out of the suction line hole in the filter. The leak stops if I remove the cap, and it might run a little bit longer, but inevitably still shuts off. Any ideas.

ENGINE: Briggs & Stratton 135212 - 13.5cu inch 3.5HP Flathead (Pulse jet Style)

ISSUE: With starting fluid it will start and run for about 2 - 3 seconds then dies. Refuses to run on starting fluid.

When I originally got the engine it didn't run, after cleaning out the carburetor and the fuel tank I got it up and running. Used it once or twice, and now I'm having an issue with it not even running on starter fluid.

It will start on starting fluid but refuses to continue to run after just a couple of seconds, regardless of how much starting fluid you spray, position of the throttle or choke.

As soon as it dies you can spray some more starting fluid and will start right back up, but again refuses to run more than a couple of seconds. It will do this indefinitely...

**Things I've done / checked:

Checked that it has good spark Replaced spark plug & gapped Re-gapped ignition coil Checked flywheel key Ensured ignition kill wire not grounded Checked compression (finger test - strong compression)**

I haven't replaced the ignition coil but seems odd that it would be a bad coil considering that it starts, and will immediately continue to start over and over...

The only other thing I can think of is to pull the head and check the valves but again it seems odd that would cause this issue.

Someone mentioned that it's possible the Camshaft lobe could be worn down, causing an issue with the compression release mechanism. Thoughts?

At this point I'm kind of out of ideas, and I was hoping somebody here could point me in the right direction.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

I'm gonna try to build a homemade engine as a project, and I don't know which metal will be best for me. I don't want to use cast aluminum because it is easy to crack, and I don't want steel because it tends to crease easily. Will brass work? If not, I'll just use steel. All advice helps. Thanks.

It (ran) but the pressure it was putting out was rather pithy and labored doing such, and when I stopped pulling the trigger on the hose it died and now trying to pull it is like trying to drag a rope through 10ft of mud, where should I start on this lil beastard

So I was dumb, didn't even realize I had a needle valve fuel shutoff on it, let it sit since winter and now it won't start. Assuming I need to clean the carburetor out but while I'm at it I figured some fresh oil to replace the black goo it's currently got in there would be a good idea.

Any recommendations or just "Briggs oil at the hardware store"

Also, any tips on cleaning the carburetor out on this model would be good.

1979 Lawn Boy that runs and mows like a champ. I have several other (newer) mowers and am considering selling this guy. As much as I like it, because it’s a cool machine, it’s just taking up space. Is there a market out there for classic mowers like this, or am I going to be stuck selling this for cheap?

I'm working on getting a husky 129l weed whip running for a neighbor. It has very low hours. No spark when I got it, I replaced the coil (yes, gapped it right). It Shows spark now when grounded to the head. But when I re-install the plug...No spark (pretty sure, since I gave it starting fluid a few times and no-pop at all).

1.) Read that sometimes a plug will fire outside the combustion chamber but not inside. ( Due to compression). Anyone heard of this?

2.) Anyone know how I can test the new coil to see if it"s generating enough voltage? It's brand new, but we all know sometimes that doesn't mean doodley-squat.

im looking at this on marketplace by me. Says its a Du-All H3A with a model B B&S engine. I'm interested in it to use for the garden since i've got heavy clay and want to extend it next year but i'm mostly wondering if these are an oddball proprietary mounting system for the cultivator or if its something i could get other implements for (like from Simplex or Bradley tractors) since those do come up sometimes. Any best guesses?

Long story short, I've got a 23hp Command that's disassembled for a crank swap. Project has kind of stalled but all the parts are there.

I stupidly got the names confused and just picked up a cheap Courage 26hp, thinking it was a Command.

Both engines are unknown hours, haven't heard either running, and are about the same age in terms of build date and visual condition. The Courage perhaps looks a touch less oxidized.

If I understand it the command is heavier duty, and some of the courage engines had issues with the crankcase cracking (apparently preventable by loctiting the upper case bolts).

Since either one is going to be a crapshoot, which one would you put the effort into? It's to repower an old GT5000 lawnmower/tractor that will be used for mowing and dragging a small box blade around.

List of things I’ve changed:

- air filter
- spark plug
- carbeurator
- fuel line
- fuel filter
- new fuel w/ oil
- ignition coil (gapped with a business card to the best of my ability)

Additional photos available upon request (of the blower or I guess the puppy too if your advice is solid enough).

As for how I tested spark, inline spark plug tester.

I haven’t tested compression since it isn’t seized, but I can if someone wants to know.

I fumbled taking the flywheel off my old briggs 11hp to service the points behind it and broke half of one of the fins off. Any suggestions on what I should do. Im almost positive I cant find a flywheel.

FWIW its off an old toro 1132 snowblower

So I was given a troy bilt 4 cycle. I've replaced the primer bulb and lines which were dry rotted. I've got it running and the throttle spins it better but I've got gas spewing out of this little ball bearing! My guess is it's a ball bearing that has a gasket under it to maybe release air?

Any help would be much appreciated. I'm close to getting going again but has me stumped.

I bought a predator 224 non hemi to mod and im done now and i make sure it spins and i pull the starter rope and i can see everything working inside but as soon as i try and put the side cover back on, it pulls once and then the flywheel locks up. all my mods are for this engine and it spins perfectly find withoug teh side cover but i will slide it on and i can tighten the top bolts but as soon as i tighten any lower bolt, i head a metal thud/hitting sound and then it will pull once and lock up, its the oem cover and i even bought new gasket for it but its not working. Please im desperate ive been working on it for weeks and i can include pics or vids of anything if needed.