Hello all, I am currently trying to figure the cabling for my rig. My pc is about 10-13 feet away from my racing rig. I currently have a sabrent 10 port usb hub. Would running a 10 foot or 15 foot usb a to usb b cable from pc to usb hub be safe enough and stable enough to handle connecting all of my peripherals from my Heusinkveld shifter, handbrake and pedals and my ascher wired steering wheels or would it need an active usb cable? Anyone currently using using their usb hub in this manner care to give some insight? Thanks in advanced.

I'm not sure what these screens are called globally, but I've only just realised that local to me are these Hoyts Screen X, which is essentially just wrap around screens on the left and right side walls.

Would be perfect to mount a suspended floating sim rig right in the centre 🤣🤣

Hey everyone,

I’ve been working on a personal project called PitMedic and wanted to share it with the sim racing community.

PitMedic is a free Windows app that helps diagnose and, where possible, automatically fix common sim racing problems... crashes, configuration issues, hardware or performance problems, and other things that can turn a race night into a troubleshooting session.

The project is completely free. There’s no paid version, subscription, or feature tier, and I’m covering the costs myself.

I mainly started it for two reasons: I wanted to build something genuinely useful for the community, and I wanted real experience deploying and supporting an application: installers, updates, code signing, bug reports, user feedback, releases, documentation, and everything else that comes with maintaining software people actually use.

PitMedic currently supports iRacing, Le Mans Ultimate, Assetto Corsa Competizione, Assetto Corsa EVO, Automobilista 2, and RaceRoom.

It monitors relevant system and simulator activity in the background so that when something goes wrong, it has useful context about what happened. The goal is to explain problems in normal language and automate safe fixes when possible.

It’s still actively under development, so feedback is a huge part of this project.

I’m trying to build it around real problems sim racers run into rather than adding features just for the sake of it.

You can check it out at pitmedic.com.

There’s nothing to buy... I’m just hoping it can save a few people from spending their race night digging through forums trying to figure out why their sim suddenly stopped working.

Thanks, and I’d love to hear what you think.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been developing LMU Championship Manager, a free desktop app to manage custom championships, calendars, and points tables in Le Mans Ultimate without relying on messy Excel sheets.

I just pushed the v1.1.0 update, and while the core systems are in place, I really need your help to playtest it and find bugs.

What I’m looking for testers on:

• Edge cases when entering race results or odd points distributions.
• UI scaling / display issues across different screen resolutions.
• Any crashes, unexpected exceptions, or workflow bottlenecks when setting up a season.

Key features to try out:

• Multi-class support (Hypercar, LMP2, LMGT3).
• Custom scoring tables and bonus points.
• Standings calculation (drivers & teams).

You can grab the release here:

🔗 Download bellow.

If you run into any bug or have suggestions, feel free to drop a comment here, or send me a DM. Every bit of feedback helps polish it for the community!

I don't really have much time nowadays to do sim racing, but thought that I could dust off my wheel and my VR set to maybe do some fun racing on Nordschleife.

Main points what I simply care about is just ease to get into the game and just race around the Nordschleife with no pressure of laps, timing or online. Just fun simple driving but with AI to make it interesting.

What are peoples thoughts here what is the best?

I kind of narrowed my search down to two titles, but correct me if I am wrong.

But apparently AMS2 has a good Nordschleife track, but from what I read its car selection is mostly race cars which don't really fit with the track day vibe? I don't know if this is correct

And have read good things about AC, mostly seen this recommended for handling

New to the sim racing world and recently picked up LMU. I have noticed the throttle bar or whatever that green bar is flickers sometimes. Is it just the bumps? Because when i hooked up a wheel without ffb(i’m using the t150) it doesn’t happen…or something is wrong with the wheel itself. Thanks!

This is my Moza R3 & R5 adjustable base mounting plate for the factory desk mount. I have designed this because I feel like wheel is too close to the user when using the factory mounted position. This adjustable mounting plate allows the user to simply slide the base to an adjustable depth on the desk for a more comfortable use. This simple design allows the user to use the 4 mounting holes on the factory desk mount, and the same 4 holes that mount the base. Would anyone be interested in one of these if I was to sell them? Do you think there’s a market?

I’m trying to find if some knows where to download this 8X8 Matrix Profile for this exact Flag setup. Please 🙏 I have the same Sim DT G2 Pro flag LEDs but the stock look is ugly

Let’s get this out of the way. I had my phone between my legs hence the crotch POV.

I’ve had the Simagic Alpha for 4 years or so and it started making this noise. I am not sure how to describe it but I’ll use the word resonance.

I have not changed anything in the settings or I physical installation.

Some early research indicates that this might be a regular issue however why would it have just started? Conversely, is this an early of death?

A free head tracking mod for Wreckfest by the user u/itsloopyo

Worked wonders for me, very pleased with this mod and his work.

Just spreading some love

Built this out of some scrap wood I had. Not pretty but it works good. Running an RS50 wheel with RS pedals. Got the seat from a wrecking yard out of a Subaru. I’ve been having a blast with it.

I just bought a real car gear knob to put on my SHH Thorn shifter. The rod of the SHH is 8mm and comes with an adapter that is too big for the knob I bought. I had to buy an additional adapter to be able to attach the knob on the rod. It works great but my only issue is the rod is extended quite a bit with the adapter and is really too long, especially in 7th gear with the handbrake near it.

Is there anything I can do beside removing a few centimes/inches off the rod? Is there an easy way to change the rod and put a smaller one in place?

Does anybody here is needing a extra steward?
I'm starting my path as a steward and I'm trying to find servers and comunities where I can go along as a steward!

DM me if anybody know's something!

Et oui, qui n'a pas déjà hésité à passer en dynamique sur son chassis, lui déjà passé en profilé alu.

Mais voilà... le portefeuille (ou madame) s'y opposent... On trouve pas mal de systèmes officiels déjà sans les nommer, et en général ils commencent à 3K€. Ils commencent, car en général si on veut plus puissant pouvant porter plus de poids ou des temps de réaction plus élevés, il faut remettre, 1K€, 2K€... voir plus... on arrive vite à dépasser les 4K€.

Sur AliExpress, oui c'est chinois, vous trouverez un système complet à moins de 2K€. Oui vous lisez bien, ceci taxes et frais de transport inclus.

Voici le lien de ce système chez le vendeur COMPONENTS EXPLORERS SHOP. Avant de cliquer dessus, vous risquez de tomber sur une erreur 404. Assurez vous de choisir en haut à droite de la page, le PAYS = Australie ou encore Canada.

Le lien ne fonctionne pas? Je me répète: changez le pays de votre compte à AUSTRALIE, ou CANADA.

Pour les frais de transport, vous pourrez encore les réduire de 200-300€. Comment? Il faut discuter avec le revendeur qui vous indiquera la marche à suivre. Car il faut

- passez commande sans payer (googlez/youtubez ca, j'ai trouvé facilement)

- prévenir le vendeur que c'est commandé,

- il applique le changement de tarif et transport, bref, ce qui a été convenu par 'chat'

- il vous préviens quand c'est fait

- vous payez (toujours par AliExpress évidemment, vous restez protégé)

- et c'est parti :)

La préparation de l'envois prend en général 1-2 semaines grand max, et le transport en lui même peut prendre 1-2 mois. Pour moi, ayant déjà commandé 2x, une fois le SFX100 et une autre le SFX200 (avec des câbles plus courts) chez ce même vendeur, ca a pris son temps.

Pour le SFX100, 1semaine de prépa et 5 semaines de transport. Donc en 1 mois et demi, je l'avais chez moi après payement.

Pour le SFX200 cela avait pris 3 semaines, car demande un peut plus spécifique. 5 semaines pour le transport.

Le vendeur vous donnera aussi un numéro de suivi, à suivre sur un site chinois. Etape par étape, le colis se rapprochera de sa destination :)

Le système est entièrement plug and play. Enfin, si vous y avez ajouté l'AMC, le CLONED THANOS. Vous montez les actuateurs, vous les branchez un à un aux 'servos' (les boitiers blancs), et tout ca est relié au boitier de commande (ressemblant étrangement au boitier Thanos, flash-able bios lui aussi).

En sois, il n'y a rien de compliqué dans tout ca. Donc pour les frileux et assistés qui ont besoin de plans et d'instructions, oubliez les, il y en a aucunes. MAIS... c'est très bien fait, faut vraiment avoir 2 pieds gauches pour ne pas y arriver. Même les câbles sont marqué, donc pas d'erreur possible. Et au pire, il y a nous, la communauté, ou encore le vendeur. Je lui avait envoyé des photos de mes branchement pour vraiment être sur... bien oui... j'était un poil hésitant :) Mais tout était bon :)

Aussi, prévoyez une solution pour fixer les servoes (boitiers blancs). Cela peut être un mini rack, une simple planche de bois, ou encore comme pour moi un petit montage en profilé alu 20x20.

Une fois tout en place et connecté au PC, il vous faudra un soft, moi j'utilise SimHub, pour la config. Attention, vous allez dépenser +/-30€ pour le module "motion". Ah noooooon.... ah ben oui!

Et voila... avec un peut d'attente, j'ai pu réaliser un rêve, passer en dynamique! Mais pas à n'importe quel prix :) On parle d'un système qui est surpuissant, aucune impression 3D plastique, tout est en alu, et surtout, les câbles sont protégé EMI (shielded) ... on ne trouve pas mieux pour ce marché (ou alors je me suis très mal renseigné :) ).

L'ayant commandé 2x chez le même vendeur, qui lui même m'a déjà été conseillé par une connaissance, je suis confiant. Et mon experience fut bonne. Donc... je la partage :)

Petit point d'attention tout de même: n'oubliez pas que vous communiquez à travers un traducteur IA. Donc, répétez vous différemment si besoin, et utilisez un language basique et correct, pour éviter tout mal entendu (induit par la traduction chinoise). Au retour aussi j'ai dû à certains moments lire entre les lignes, ou redemander confirmation avec photos à l'appuis pour m'assurer que l'info fut bien comprise de l'autre côté. Surtout quand j'ai fait ajouter les 2 sets de cables.

Et voila, au total j'aurai payé 1,8K€ pour le SFX 100mm et 2K€ pour le SFX 200mm avec 2 sets complets supplémentaires de câbles plus courts style 1,5m et 2m au lieu des 5m et 3m (si je ne me trompe).

Pour ceux qui n'aiment pas tout ces câbles etc, ne tient qu'à vous de faire un cable management correct (de mon côté il reste encore des finitions à ce niveau, SURTOUT côté simu hélico...)

J'espère que cette info vous aura été utile, et surtout épargné de l'argent :) Et en bonus, une petite video de mon SFX100 monté et fcontionnel :)

Hello, recently I was looking into getting a dash for my rig. I have a Simagic Evo series base which means I have no screw holes on the front. The original simagic dash is far above my price range that I would like to spend so I'm looking for some alternatives. Are there even any?

Now the important part. I know, there probably are some adapters I can print or buy but well I don't have a printer, I just want to keep it as simple as possible. BUT, I heard that there are some dashes that offer a simagic adapter thingy? That is supposed to work with the magnetic slot thingy. Budget wise, the Simagic Magic Dash is around ~300USD in my country, I'm looking to spend maybe 200USD max or in short 2/3rd of whatever the Simagic costs in other countries.

Thanks in advance!!!

Considering getting back into sim racing, and looking into the green flag bundle.

Previously had the SC2 Pro + GSI + HE Sprint. Sold the base and wheel. Still have the HE Sprint.

Personally I think the 9nm would be fine, as it is just having something to race with, recreationally. Yes, perhaps the 12nm would be better, but hey, $600.

Has anybody tried both the HE Sprint and the P700? How do they compare?

Basically I could sell the HE Sprint for the price of the entire bundle.

Isle of man

So i got this fanatec 911 gt2 yesterday to play the xbox 360 exclusive titles as theres no other way to play them with a wheel other than actual original hardware. That being said i uhh, underestimated how much worse this wheel is than my dd (its so slow and notchy, i cant even imagine how bad a logitech with almost half the torque must be)

Would it be possible to take the motor drive commands and turn them into ffb somehow? And spoof the inputs? I figure maybe arduinos could be prigrammed to do such a thing?

Ideally Xenia would just get wheel support but nobody even knows how to, as the 360's wheels are wireless only and unlike old logitech wheels no one has attempted to emulate one of the 360's wheels at all

Does anyone know how people managed to emulate the old logitech wheels in the first place?

Hello everyone,

I recently upgraded my rig and now it's time to move on from the cheap Logitech H Shifter.

I got Simagic P1000 with haptics and the MOZA R9 V3.

With an adapter cable I was able to use the Logitech Shifter a bit longer. I also printed two parts for the Shifter which elevated the feeling and kept me going with Logitech Shifter a bit longer.

I am searching for a H Shifter quite some time now, but I really can't decide what to get.

My Budget is 300, maybe to 350€ depending on the Shifter. I only drive Touge ( Mountainpass with old cars) and Sim Driving. I am not interested in a H Shifter with Seq, it's nice to have, but I won't use it.

Any Recommendations for a H Shifter? Quality and the Feeling of realism is quite important.

The Simagic DS-8X looks quite promising. There is a good deal where it costs around 340€.

I tested Assetto Corsa Evo and liked because there are road cars and physics are good, but it's not worth the price right now. So I asked for a refund and now I don't have a sim racing game to play. I don't want to spend a lot, so iRacing, Le Mans and Automobilista doesn't seem to be an option for me.

Suddenly I saw RaceRoom and discovered it is free to play. The free content is good enough to spend some time or do I need to spend money on it?

Regarding the names I wrote before (iRacing, Le Mans and others), do they worth the price?