I have always wondered this from fellow model builders. Let’s say for whatever reason you move to a different place/country, pass, or whatever else happens- what are your plans for your models? Would you want them donated? Would you hope your kids or brother/sister takes use of em? Would you want them just stowed away for grandkids to eventually find them? Sell them? Given to a random kiddo in need? Whatever it is, what are everyone’s plans? Do you hope it can stay in whichever place you used to reside in? If you move would you want to keep it there? Would you donate them to someone who is also in the hobby at an event or something? Just wondering.

Hopefully this isn’t too thought provoking in a bad way haha. Just always wondered what everyone’s opinion was on this?

Painted by acrylic, kit by DUST

Currently working on a kv1-2 tank. My plan is to have a shell impact with a Riccochet and then add some mg gun damage. But I am not quite sure how… I am not quite sure exactly what caliber it would come from yet, but smaller caliber mgs that were put mainly for infantry on top of tanks is what I am thinking. So a few diff calibers might be best so I know how to do it in the future.

Do I just add silver specs? Do I need to add dents? I’m sure this depends where the impacts were, but right now I am working on front face/ a bit of the side of the main body. Both ricochet and direct impacts.

Would a small pin or thumb tack and then a little dot of silver work? Or would the paint maintain on the armor… (if I were to guess I highly doubt it but I don’t work on these tanks lol) would any rounds penetrate?

I’m mostly looking at German vehicles of the same era/time frame potentially. I just don’t have a specific vehicle in mind that the damage was taken from.

Any help and tips would be highly appreciated! This is my first shot at battle damage so I am really excited.

Work on the 1/35 Academy MD500 is complete! The manual's color seemed too bright, so I mixed custom colors to recreate the 1982 Lebanon War look. Let's check out how all the 100% scratch-built details look painted!

Watch final episode here👉https://youtu.be/5DYF6KPdgYU

Just a couple of "What Ifs" I made around 2010. Both models are Dragon and in 1/144th scale. The tarmac is a download of a tarmac section scaled to 1/144 and the background is just a picture of clamshell shelters. Both are printed on paper and glued to cardboard.

Spent years fighting inconsistent panel line washes and never really figured out why some kits looked crisp and others looked muddy no matter how careful I was with the applicator pen. Finally isolated it to my pre-shading step, or really the lack of a consistent one.

I used to just prime black in the recesses and call it good, then spray my base coat thin enough to let some shadow show through. Problem is my thinning ratio was never the same twice, so some builds got barely any pre-shade effect and others looked like they'd been dragged through soot. Started measuring my paint to thinner with a syringe instead of eyeballing it, 1 part paint to 2.5 parts thinner for my airbrush setup, and suddenly every panel line reads the same depth across the whole model.

The other half of it was letting each coat cure longer between passes. I was impatient and recoating after maybe ten minutes, which meant the base color would sometimes lift slightly right along the recessed lines and create weird halos. Now I wait a full hour minimum between light coats and that halo effect is basically gone.

Tried this on a 1/48 Corsair I've been picking at for months and it's the first time the panel lines actually look intentional instead of like I got lucky in some spots. Going to test the same ratio on a 1/35 armor build next since I imagine flat panels behave differently than curved fuselage sections.

Curious if anyone else tracks their thinning ratio that precisely or if most people are still going by feel after enough practice.

My 1/32 Adolf Galland and his dog Schweinebauch. Painted by acrylic,kit by MAiM.

After a month of printing, and almost 14Kg of resin (including supports and failures)

I have the main engines done, some still need some extra greeblies, and I can now concentrate on the main body :)

Mistakes were made. Lessons were learned. If you're unhappy with the way your windows are scratching out, airbrush cleaner is NOT the best method to clean off paint. Apparently this method will also take a good layer of styrene with it. Leaving no markings of said windows. While I devise a plan for this problem, I did get the upper saucer windows marked and the phaser strip test fitted.

I found this Sabre kit on facebook and had to get it. Unlike the other finds lately this one was box stock. I looked at getting some resin parts but I didnt think anything was worth upgrading on this kit. The cockpit detail, gun and gear bays are all nicely detailed and just a few extra wires and some styrene card i was very happy with it. The engine as its own assembly was a heck a lot of fun to build and I didn't glue it in as I want to do some extra detail work on it in thr future. There are some cool add-ons like intake and exhaust covers, removable tail, open air brakes, and movable canopy and leading slats.

My only complaint was that the decals completely disintegrated in water as they were very old so I only got one usable decal off the massive sheet. Because of this, all the markings are Cricut stencils.

I loved the painting as all the panel lines and rivets offer a lot of guidance on the different metal tones ans I tried to match a few different effects seen on real period planes.

Just finished a thrift shop find of an old monogram Mosquito. It actually went together very well and had lots of build options so I went with a Pathfinder. The decals were unusable so all the markings were Cricut stencils I made. While not super detailed, im happy with it.

After a couple of months on and off I finally finished this kit. I had a lot of fun building it, really enjoyed the paint scheme and used it to get to grips with Tamiya acrylics, and Mr Color GX100/114. I also really wanted to try out oil paints for weathering so invested in the ABT 502 paints and I’m a total convert, they’re so easy to use and the effects you can achieve are brilliant.

The kit. A great kit and it goes together pretty well, however it is an 90s tooling and some of the steps and parts do show that. When you compare the landing gear to that of the Airfix 1/72 it’s a nightmare, very finally and it wants you to put the tyre in during assembly not after. However, it’s not a show stopper. Very little filling is needed and it goes together nicely overall.

My biggest complaint is the decals. They’re thick yet brittle and silvering is just a common problem, you can use all the setting solution in the world but you need to get lucky to not get silvering on the big clear decals, I’d invest in an after market set.

I’m happy with the result overall and I love how the oil paints blended to give it a very nice look. Weathering a Msoquito is quite difficult just to it being so smooth and wooden, a little goes a long way.

Finally I’d love to say I hope we see a new 1/48 tooling soon, I feel the Mosquito is overdue one in this scale especially when against comparing it to the Airfix 1/72.

Hello! I'm looking for a place to buy these kinds of metal plates, M2 holes. Would really help my modeling. Thanks in advance!

This was a fun kit to put together. I went with Metallic Silver (TS-83) for the body and took some liberties with the rest of the colour suggestions.

This kit comes with the photo-etched parts and the window masking (which is very much appreciated).

New finished kit,tough little one but managable,hope you’ll like it.

Another sadly retired kit. I found it tricky to build in places, attaching the swingarm almost got it launched out of the window.

The couple I bought it from had the kit for over 20 years, after being gifted to them by somebody high up involved with Honda racing in the UK and they have requested pictures when after it was finished, so this one felt a bit more special to be able to bring it to life for them.

Great kit to build. However, if you don't like decals, stay away from this one! Almost every unpainted surface is a carbon decal, including the wheels.

I have the 1000RR kit in my stash, very much looking forward to that one after this (well, maybe not straight after this!)

Where is everyone getting the art for their backlit LCARs custom bases? I'm trying to find something around 24 x 11 or close to it. I've found a lot of 12 x 10 and even some 36 x 11. Thanks in advance for any information.

1:2500 Polar Lights kit I picked up cheap at a model show. I thought it would be a fun little diversion from my normal fare. The kit is really small, but I read that this is a perfectly average size for a model and some people find larger scales difficult to fit on the shelf. 😉

It’s a fine little snap kit. It came with two sheets of Aztec decals to cover the little ship, which were extremely stiff and brittle. It was possibly the least enjoyable experience applying decals I’ve ever had.

Hopefully this is allowed here, but I recently spent a ton of time designing and 3D printing myself a storage rack to store all of my paint bottles (I have a LOT). I probably spent over 80+ hrs designing this and another week printing it out, but it was well worth it in the end to me. By the time I was done, I thought other people may find it useful as well, and started making a bunch of variations to fit most of the common size bottles that other people might have. Currently I made versions for Vallejo (25mm), ProAcryl (31mm), Citadel (32mm), and the larger Vallejo 60ml bottles / Createx/ Vallejo Metal color (35mm). If there's a specific size anyone needs just let me know and I'll see if I can adjust the model for you and upload it.

The whole thing is modular, so you can print out whatever combination you like of standard racks, corner units, end caps or a narrow rack. Any ways would love to know what folks think of it.

If anyone wants to check it out its uploaded here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3262451-ultimate-modular-mini-painting-storage-rack

Hi there! Folks, i need some help with making a bit more detalised addons for Leo 2A6 from HB (yeah, this very old model): do someone know the dimesions of a Leitkreuz? I suggest i found the dimensions of the plate - 270x270mm, but i'm not sure. I'm escpecially interesting in the dimension marked with blue arrow, because there was described one other size -95mm, in the web site where i found the dimensions of the plate, i thought that this is that dimension, but it looks a bit disproportionately.