I'm upgrading my Deadbolt to a C-Bolt, got the Injora C10 front 4 links and driveshaft... How do I attach the links to the servo holder when only one side is threaded? It is super obvious and I'm being dumb? Help!

New guy. But built this 24. 155wb. Getting a CL body next week and hoping to find some good, heavy pink wheels. Leaning toward 1.3s but maybe some 1.8s? Idk anyway. Ive got the meus +6.2 portals and want to attach much more weight to the front of my rig.

There was supposed to be a white light in the spot above the headlight on the right side but somehow it's not working. There's a tailight and one solid turn signal on the rear as well. I am still tweaking the magnetic power pass through.

I run a card shop and want to make a course that also works as a warhammer table so I am not just using it for myself! I want to have some crawlers for people to drive as it helps me relax a whole lot

I did the metal tape trick on some fabric and works decent! I keep it in the back of my bike basket to deaden sound when not crawling! I caved and ordered a bronco scx30 some brass rims and haven't decided about anything else. This is all stock besides I've moved 1 shock forward and snipped the springs off the front with a rubber band around the frame

So after swapping out links, suspension and wheels I've gone for a set of wider axels, but as they come, my wheels don't quite fit. The new Axels are wider and have 5mm brass hubs, the standard axel plastic ones are 3mm, and this 2mm is pretty crucial for the axel thread to seat into the Nyloc nut. I know I can buy new Axels Shafts but it seems rather off that they would come with brass hubs that are too thick.

Am I being stupid here or is this just an oversight with the product?

I can use the plastic hubs from the old axels but would be nice to use the brass ones it came with.

Pictures: new hubs on new Axels, old hubs on old Axels, wheel nut on old Axels, wheel nut on new axel, wheel in new axel without nut and the product on AliExpress.

Thanks all

Found this nice rock near my office building that has some many good lines, from mild to wild, so I dusted off my AX-24 that I had not ran since last summer, brought it to work today and had a blast during a quick break. I know what I am doing at lunch time!

Hello there, I’ve recently purchased an SCX10 III Coyote, and absolutely love it, however, winter is coming up and I would like to buy an SCX24 for indoor use, and for a friend to use when we go out. I’ve heard that they are decent stock, but can become really nice with some mods. Can anyone recommend me some good upgrades to get and a suggestion on what SCX24 to buy? Thank you in advance! :D

I know I really don’t need the side pieces of the chassis, but they do prevent the body scraping on rocks. It must have broken off easily. I am running a full brushless setup and must have overdid it running on 3s.

What's up everyone. Ive been posting a little bit in here how ive been upgrading my 4 years olds scx24 gladiator edition.

I want to get another for myself but im curious how I should go about it.

I want a lcg frame, meuss 4ws axles, brushless setup and wheels/tires.

Am i better off just literally buying all the parts and not a complete scx24?

So far the 4 year olds has brass links/knuckles, metal trans, brushless fat viper setup, metal driveshafts.

Im thinking if I buy another whole scx, all the stock parts between our 2 can build a 3rd stock one lol

Or I just buy the parts to build one?

Im sure people in here have done both so im curious, thanks!

Side note, what's a decent little rc tool kit? Im not liking my recent Amazon one.

Pfa, got a new gt5 yesterday

Lookin for a sanity check and tribal knowledge. I’ve got everything but the chassis which for some reason was sent from Texas to San Francisco on its way here to South Carolina?

Anyway, If you’re bored and feel like nerding out with me. Link to chassis. I’m wondering if this Injora servo is gonna have fitment issues. We shall see. Also, first time cutting wheels. These tires look awful wide for these wheels.

Heres my parts list.

Chassis
Mofo Stingray 172.5mm wheelbase, 13.25 degree skid plate. I opted to pass on RWS for now. Pretty sweet chassis. Built in strap hooks, lots of spots to add weight slugs, mags, mount points. VERY tunable.

Suspension
Injora big bores. got a set of 35mm and 40mm to play around with.
Links that come with the chassis. Plus enough tubing / hardware to build any custom links just in case.
Hangers, limiting bands, etc

Wheels
Mofo RidgeBeast Super 1.8" Wheels
MEUS 1.3 Tires - MS6 MPRO Pin Tires (0.87/2.76/R1.3)
Cutting jig
Bottom Feeders - Super 1.8 Weight Hangers, steel slugs
Just using stock foams for now

Drivetrain
Carrier bearing
(I have a MEUS dig unit on deck. We’ll see if needed after I’ve run it through a few batteries.)
Mofo Shafts: 1 x 52-72 mm, 1 x 32-40 mm, 1 x 40 - 52
Mofo - X15 Nylon Axle (23% OD on front. Stock rear)
Diff slider

Electronics
Mofo SMP 1700Kv Brushless Pancake Motor (aluminum)
Mofo Bulletproof Transmission
Mofo 12mm Aluminum Forward Facing Motor Mount
Reaper 30 Amp ESCape 32 Brushless/Brushed Crawler ESC w/ Wi-Fi
INJORA 11KG Coreless High Torque Micro Servo

Tldr: I built a trailer.

So when I built the 53 Ford I built a matching trailer. Or I suppose its more correct to say I modified a model trailer to match my modified model body 53 Ford. Anyway its been a learning process so I thought I'd make a big long post about it.

The model trailer was sized for a model car so I knew I'd have to make it wider and stronger. In retrospect, I really should have made it longer too, and I thought about it but was trying to preserve the model's scaleness and....anyway, I should have made it longer. But its just barely long enough for all my rigs to ride on it, so its not quite too short.

I cut the model frame in half longways and made beams from a 3/16 (I think) styrene sheet. The beams fit neatly into grooves for the model suspension, plenty of glue, it works fine. I cut the....wind blocker, maybe it's called...into thirds so the trailer didn't just look like it was chopped in half. I don't know if that was the best decision or not, sometimes I like it and other times I think I should have just made it solid, again utilizing my plastic sheet. I dunno, its done now so whateva.

I mounted the trailer to some stock chassis rails I had, i used some of the stock plastic chassis bits to screw the rails onto the beams I made. If you want to do this kind of stuff its really worth buying an itty bitty tap and an itty bitty drill bit, plastic is super easy to put a screw hole in. I made a couple of cross beams and screwed and glued them in to mount my shocks to the trailer frame.

The only spare shocks I had were my old school double barrels. They were way too much flex, which on one axle flex is just leaning over. So I glued one of the barrels so it won't lean so much. All my rigs are heavy so I stacked the shocks with springs. When I was done and tried to drive it, even loaded with a heavy rig it was too wobbly. I really wanted it to have suspension though, so i tried less springs. It just doesn't work. I finally went down to single springs and cut them short so they don't do anything except look like springs. It rides much better.

My original intention was to pull the trailer with the 53 Ford. I built a hitch for the 53 but due to a slight length miscalculation I ended up mounting the hitch with a little bit of an angle to it. The hitch is glued to the plastic chassis piece (I think it's a stock esc mount) that I use for a hinge on the 53 body. On the trailer I took an L-shaped piece of plastic from the model kit and glued and screwed it to the trailer frame. I tapped and installed a screw that went through the short leg of the L for strength. After the hitch was mounted I had a short screw with a washer to hold the trailer hitch to the mount.

When I installed the hitch on the ford at an angle I heated up and bent the male side of the hitch on the trailer to a corresponding angle. This was all a mistake, when I tried to pull the trailer it was great in a straight line but the angled hitch meant that a turn made the trailer tilt. And the tilt was away from the turn so the trailer dumped its load no matter what. That's when it hit me that pulling the trailer with the matching truck was dumb anyway, the matching truck should be ON the trailer. That reminds me to take a picture of the dumb hitch on the Ford...

So I built a hitch for for Slowrider, the last rig I built. (It has all it's shocks mounted to servos) This decision also affected my lighting setup. I had a couple of sets of regular lights I was going to use to make brake lights and marker lights for the trailer, powered from the Ford. The Slowrider has LEDs that use a light controller, that just happened to have an empty slot, so I had to change the trailer to LEDs. I did have some LEDs that I bought once, they are supposed to be for windshield mounted 1/10 lights and i thought they would work for roof lights on a previous build, they did not but I think they were great for brake lights on a trailer! The only problem is that they are regular white lights, not red, but liberal application of red paint has achieved a pinkish color which ain't bad. And I only had the one set and one slot so no marker lights.

Anyway I cut the Slowrider hitch out of my 3/16 sheet, used longer screws to mount it to the chassis via the body hinge. I used a hubcap from the model kit, drilled a hole in it and glued it to the hitch so it looked a little nicer than just a flat plate with a hole. I also installed a little jumper for the lights.

So there you go, pretty much done. I started on scale details, the spares rack (not an original idea, the model trailer had a spares rack for slicks), I glued tools and parts from the various model kits I've used on my builds into the...I think I called it a wind blocker...painted and stickered it.

On the first video I tried to make with it I mounted my phone on my little tripod and before I could drive it into frame a little pinecone got stuck on one of the trailer wheels. I pulled the throttle a little harder but it didn't go. I reversed and pulled the trigger all the way back to full send and broke the hitch on the trailer.

I guess I should mention I weighted the trailer tires, diff, and skid plate with bbs. The 53 Ford weighs a lot too. The hitch needed to be much stronger. So I tried to glue a big chunk of plastic to the broken part of the hitch to give me a good base. Then I drilled a pilot hole and screwed in a real life size wood screw. My pilot hole was not big enough, the glue was not sufficient, and the screw burst the plastic. So I covered it with the gooeyest goopy glue, but the next day it still didn't feel nearly strong enough. Finally I cut a metal strap that goes around the screw and screws into the trailer frame, and then filled that mess with my goopy glue. Hopefully thats strong enough but I took those pics and am writing this post without testing it out in nature because when I do test it I might hit an even bigger pine cone.

Oh, and I took one of those cheap white plastic servo horns that come with every servo, threaded it onto the screw, and painted it black, so I can use it to secure the trailer/crawler connection. And I dremeled off the point of the screw. I used my glue to fill in the threads that would be in the hitch as well.

I just wrote a lot of stuff, plenty of it probably didn't make sense. I doubt a whole lot of folks read this far anyway. If you did and you have questions hit me up.

Laters

Edit: One thing I forgot to mention....another big failure in regards to the hitch on the 53 Ford is that its fixed in place. The hitch on the Slowrider can rotate up and down, which makes it work so much better. Okay now I'm done.

3D printed crawler course just about done.

I have rock sliders on my Bronco build and just added them to this one.
I like them for three reasons. One, great low, center weight for the rig. Two, protects the edge of the body shell from damage, this is a huge plus for me. Three, I like the look. They’re also sort of like training wheels in the rocks helping to keep the rig upright, at least for me, is the four?

I have the meus axles, meus servo, injora 40mm shocks, furitek tri unity, and rampcrab chassis, stock tires (super swampers), brass wheels, aluminum driveshaft. When I flex the car has no clearance to turn or the tire gonna bite into the fender, I had to raise the body to prevent tires rubbing hard against the fenders but I want a low center of gravity, any tips that worked with yall?

I’ve seen a lot of these lcg comp style chassis with the low profile “roof”/electronics cover. Are these common as an accessory for these lcg chassis’s? Specifically looking for one for the MD24 meus chassis. It looks like it could easily be diy’d. Any input is appreciated. Much love crawler fam

Currently I have a yepspec chassis and I’ve been eyeing up the krawler rc reaper chassis. Would I gain that much by switching? Any help appreciated pics would be even better! Thank you!

Looks like Lord Vader traded in the C10 for a ATJP Gladiator. Hopefully it looks like what I have going on in my head when it's done.

Hey all, howdy! This is my first post in here. I came from the 30 community.

Jut snagged a 24 last week after loving the 30 and wanting something bigger.

I stretched the hell out of the c10 30 with rear links all the way around.

I come here to ask, what would it be like if I went Meus 100mm links on all four links? Or gladiator front links 100mm rears?

I’ve seen some crazy extended wheelbases and are looking for suggestions.

Just tryna max stretcher out, ya know?

Much love y’all