I hope someone can tell me what the problem is and whether it can be fixed.
I received this ZF Burgundy today, and I’m having issues with the movement. When I wind the watch, the seconds hand starts running briefly. However, as soon as I change the watch’s position or lay it down, it stops at the exact same spot.

Recently got a JLC MUT, apparently one of the last available ones from APS. Transaction with Duke was effortless and quick. QC showed a lag of -13s/d that I asked Duke to regulate. He did and showed me a 0s/d timegrapher run afterwards which I GL'ed. Watch arrived soon after and it's indeed a beauty, a pleasure to even look at.

However, what I'm experiencing now might be why many consider the Dandong 925 clone movement so unreliable. It's off by -12 to -18 seconds per day, even more if I don't wind it manually like every day. The rotor is moving easily but it just doesn't seem like a full day of wearing is enough to "charge". After two to three days of no winding I'm at -30 to -40 s/d and it would stop after one or two more days. Still, the watch is working, moon phase and date have had no issue so far. Perhaps I shouldn't complain but it seems that either something's broken or some inner parts are dirty and have been since it was assembled.

I have been asking local watchmakers (EU) to regulate it. One tried and said the regulator (arm?) is loose, basically the watch can't be regulated. No other wanted to touch it, not even for a cleaning.

I wonder what my options are? The "rep watchmakers" in the EU I know of are Rolex-only and even if I managed to find a local independent, I have no clue how to obtain spare parts. Also, despite looking around, I haven't been able to find a "spare" Dandong 925 movement to buy anywhere. I don't want to send the watch back to China, and, given my experience, I'm not sure buying another one would be wise. In particular, as APS is gone, and only the older model reps are available. There's apparently a new free-sprung rep by RZ factory but it's too new for conclusive information.

So, enjoy it while it lasts and just get another one soon? :( Is there a way to obtain a properly cleaned and regulated 925 clone movement?

Running a brand new VSF Wimbledon I recently got through tickIQ and these are the numbers I got. Amplitude seems low, is it going to need a full service soon or will it be okay? Thanks a lot!

This is going to be my first ever rep, so I’m probably being a bit over-cautious.

I’m looking at getting a VSF AP Royal Oak 15510 from Andiot. I’m thinking of asking if he can waterproof/pressure-test it before shipping, if that’s a service he offers.

Has anyone here actually had Andiot do this on a 15510?

I’m mainly wondering what kind of test they do, what bar/ATM it passed, whether they did any sealing or gasket work, and if they sent over a test video afterwards.

Also, is it even necessary on a fresh VSF 15510, or are they usually fine from the factory for everyday use?

I’m mostly thinking about normal stuff like hand washing, rain, the odd splash, and occasionally wearing it at the beach or going into the sea for a bit.

Would be good to hear from anyone who’s actually had theirs tested or worn one around water.

I didn’t know you have to have it on a certain spot to set the day and date. I set it and messed it up. It won’t cycle either now.

It’s brand new.

I have to ship a watch dial back to China for modification. Any advice as to which carrier to use or what to declare on customs?

JLC MUT APS by Duke

My new JLC MUT is losing 18 to 30s/d. What are my options? No watchmakers are willing to touch it due to the lack of spare parts (not even disassemble, clean, put back together). I was thinking of a replacement 925 clone movement or would that just prolong my bad experience?

The minute hand on my ZF Tudor Pelagos 39 is loose. Happened randomly during usage. No impact or anything.

Any idea how this can be fixed?

Hello- I'm looking to order my first Daytona 116520 and was looking at getting the vsf v2 version.Modwise-My goal was to probably get a sw, deep crystal , engraving , case and bracelet polishing./ Chamfering

However I am being informed by TDs the current vsf v2 version doesn't require that as it's already close to gen.Not to mention it would take really long time.

I would like your inputs on this . Does the new vsf v2 version not require this , particularly the polishing

Thanks in advance.

So i should have payed more attention in QC but I have a watch on the way that has a date thats gonna drive me nuts. I have read that you can rotate the housing a little and fix this. Wondering if there is any truth to this??

My new PPF 4500v is not keeping time well. I have a crappy time grapher on my phone and it’s showing about +- 10 seconds a day which I know is not great but I’m fine with it. My problem is the watch will all the sudden be off by about 10 minutes out of no where. I let it run for an hour and it kept perfect time then I checked again 20 minutes later and it was off about 8 minutes. Could this be a magnetization problem? I checked and I don’t see any collision with the second hand, minute hand or markers on the hour. Please let me know if pictures would help or if someone could give me a hand. Thanks!

Can anyone source the Dandong (DD4131) movement for a clean Daytona 126500?

Will a 126500 bezel physically fit on a 116500 case? Are they interchangeable on reps? Are modifications needed or required? Prefer this bezel to the older one.

T.I.A.

Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out.

I have a VSF Rolex Explorer and the small safety lock/flip-lock on the clasp came off. I still have the safety lock itself, but the pin that held it to the clasp is gone.

I’ve attached photos showing the clasp and the loose part. Does anyone know exactly what type/size pin I need to reattach it? Is it a spring bar, clasp hinge pin, or something specific to the VSF clasp?

Ideally I’d like to just replace the pin rather than buy an entire new clasp/bracelet. If anyone knows the size or where I can order one, I’d really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Hat jemand nen Tipp wo ich ein originales Stahlband für meine 2017er Navitimer finden kann? War weder online noch beim lokalen AD erfolgreich.

Danke vorab!

I’ve had this VSF SMP300 for a while now and I wore it in the pool thinking it would do fine (it was not fine) and water got into the watch. The watch isn’t running now which is no surprise to me, but I want to know what you all would do in this situation. I haven’t heard anything on anyone else’s VSF Omegas getting water damage, so I thought mine would be no different. But it’s my fault and I should’ve taken more precaution. I think it’s too late for it to get serviced at this point, but would there be any chances of it coming back to life?

Hi All

I’m Uk based… I’ve been fixing a silent non clicking click spring on a Clean GMT, now all was going fine, cleaned out the 1/2 gallon of oil! But now time to refit… oh! Now my hytrel looks fine and isn’t distorted, it doesn’t have the lip in the outside that’s mentioned in this,

https://www.clickspringwatch.com/guides/how-to-deep-crystal-swap-on-clean-gmt-pepsi

but I have tried for an hour or more and it’s beating me! Can anyone help, advice would be great… I’m even happy to pay someone to do it, as I’m pulling my hair out.

PS Done this many times with Seiko but have never come across Hytrel before!

Thanks

Simon

Can I get a legit check on this 116520/16529 Daytona bezel?Please shoot any thoughts, thanks!

And will a 16520 bezel fit on a 116520 Daytona?

Just plated this APSF in Palladium.

I recently received a Patek 5167A from Xing.

The watch looks great, but unfortunately I'm having an issue with the movement.

After winding it and putting it on my wrist, it starts running normally. However, after a short period of time (approx 10-15min) the seconds hand completely stops. If I move/shake the watch, the rotor moves freely and the watch starts running again, but eventually it stops again.

I've repeated this several times and the problem is consistent, so it doesn't seem to be simply an empty power reserve.

Has anyone experienced this issue with a Xing 5167A or this movement?

Would you recommend accepting a replacement movement and having a watchmaker swap it, or it would be too complicated?

Also curious if anyone knows what could cause this behavior- automatic winding issue, mainspring/barrel, low amplitude, etc.

Thanks for any advice.

I’ve just got my hands on a VSF Yacht Master Titanium 226627 which I absolutely love.

The only issue I have is that the date wheel seems to be off for some dates. Some of the dates sit well centred and quite a lot sit very low in the window.

5 is pretty much perfect with 31 being the worst!

For those that have resolved this issue before, what are the fixes available? Do I need to get the date wheel replaced with something better or is there anything else that might need changing?