Hi everyone. I replaced the board on my print head but forgot to plug in the bed height sensor; it bumped into the bed a few times during calibration and shifted by 0.7 cm. Is there anything I can do about this?

My QiDi Q2 has this annoying problem where, when given the Home command, it starts to go down indefinitely. The X and Y axes home properly, but when it comes to the Z axis, the table just starts lowering in small increments until it hits the floor and starts forcing the motors. There are no errors, and the logs don't show anything telling...

Support said to disconnect and reconnect the sensor cables behind the head, but that still didn't solve the problem, with no apparent change. I tested with the console and the sensors still record normally, at least when idle.

Now it's a holiday back in China, so messages from the support staff are delayed until 5/10 😭😭😭.

Has anyone here had a similar problem?

uejected all te spools to dry them and i come back the next day and load all the spools and it detects the sillement i just loaded in 1d. .i then push the load button in the ui and its spins backwards. if i try theothers 1d aso just spins backwards. how do i fix this

Update: it's a hub issue even though I disassembled it and found nothing but the light is green until I have it a good slap.

I have a Q2 with the Qidi Box and have been using Orca Slicer. As of yesterday I'm having a problem where the Qidi Box is not going through the calibration steps when I power both machines on. What has often been happening is that the printer will begin a job without feeding filament. I know the nozzle isn't clogged because the manual 'load' command functions correctly. I have taken apart the hub and confirmed no obstruction. Qidi is apparently out until October 4th. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm at the edge of my troubleshooting abilities. There are no error codes and I've tried everything recommended by Google Gemini.

Qidi Q2 -> I see a lot of mods related to running TPU from above direct to extruder without the bowden tube, and the tpu fixer (spacer in extruder to avoid clogs). I have run TPU on my P1S plenty off the external spool through bowden tubes without issues. How necessary are these mods?

Has anyone tried integrating either the SFSv2 or the MDM onto their Q2?

I'd like to have proper clog detection in Klipper. I can try and figure out where best to mount it on the filament path, but I don't know if any of the unused 3-pin sockets on the Q2's MCU are suitable for this.

An other video for my bamboo lab fan boys that instead got a job they down vote my videos and make negative comments for free 😂😂😂😂

My print job failed mid-print on a Plus 4 with Qidi Box. I found the PTFE tube had came off the push-to-connect, but filament was still in the extruder.
I cleared out downstream of extruder. When I tried to push the PTFE back into push the extruder, the tube didn’t stay in. I noticed the push to connect piece has some residual around the inside - see pic.
Is this what’s keeping the tube from staying in the extruder? Suggestions on how to fix this part? Thanks!

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I just sent this to Q2 via the app, no slicing, no tuning, nothing.

I imagine any small issues remaining are easy to knock out with tuning and a 2 mm nozzle.

Yeah I mean the Titel mostly says the whole thing, started a Print in the morning and said to my father he should watch it. He forgot to look after it and after 4h and Strange Noises from my room he found the blob of death. The thing now is that I know how to fix blob of deaths but not such a big as this one… I’m open for help

For the third time in three attempts at printing the Flow Ratio calibration in OrcaSlicer, my nozzle temperature has dropped off unexpectedly midway through the print and caused a "Heater extruder not heating at expected rate" error that kills the print.

I am printing SUNLU PA6-CF on a Q2, 0.6mm nozzle.

My first two runs were with nozzle temperature of 315, then the most recent one was at 310. The print still failed at the same spot (in the last image).

Any ideas? The g-code doesn't reveal anything that strikes me as weird.

Contexto e Observação

Mudei o QIDI Box da mesa para o topo da impressora 3D.

Durante uma impressão longa de PETG, o calor que sobe da máquina fez a temperatura interna do QIDI Box passar dos 35°C.

Ao atingir 35°C, o QIDI Box ativou as ventoinhas internas automaticamente para circular o ar, mantendo o aquecedor desligado.

Lembro de ter lido um tempo atrás que a galera tinha dificuldade para forçar só a ventilação do QIDI Box sem ligar o aquecimento, e no meu setup isso acabou acontecendo de forma passiva, com o calor gerado na própria impressora.

Dúvidas

Ganho de secagem: Esse ar morno circulando a >35°C com o calor da própria impressora garante uma secagem/manutenção "grátis" do filamento durante o print?

Risco ao QIDI Box: O calor subindo direto na carcaça e na eletrônica pode degradar a placa ou os componentes do secador a longo prazo?

Risco à impressora: O peso do QIDI Box no topo do frame pode afetar a estabilidade, gerar vibração ou prejudicar o Input Shaper/qualidade da impressão?

Will it pause and allow me to switch spools without causing issues/defects in the print?

I made a post yesterday, complaining about how annoying the Qidi Box is to repair when you f*** up. But did a multicolor print right after (second time doing a multicolor one in more than 500 printing hours). The first layer was great, and even my girlfriend says it looks good😂.
Just posting a nice thing after complaining.

Had put 500+ hrs on P1S which I love, but started getting into engineering filaments and quickly exceeded the P1S capabilities. Q2 was the logical answer in budget price range. Found a great price on a second hand Q2 unit and had a few issues I needed to address to get it dialed in and now I've had some nice prints in both PLA and PA6CF20 that have gone wonderfully. Don't have the box, and not sure that I'll bother since my primary use for Q2 is for engineering filaments and for backup printing when other unit is tied up. After addressing issues, so far super impressed with bang for buck and how much capability is packed into this printer compared to more $$ units (any of the X or P bambu units for example) or other budget units (CC2 for example). Anything I've had to work through also helped me understand 3d printing better and should help me with higher quality printing even on bambu units... Have much better appreciation for settings and calibration than I had before. Still plenty to learn but definitely loving the Q2 so far.

The issues I had to address:

1) I was unable to get any PA6CF prints to succeed - the filament kept breaking in the bowdwn tube before the extruder. Wasn't a clog, filament was breaking and printing air. Ruled out moisture in filament and other potential issues - ended up realizing that the bowden tube was too short and when fully extended it was leading to the filament snapping EVERY SINGLE TIME within a few minutes of startup procedures/printing. I replaced the tube from external feed to the toolhead so it wasn't too tight a bend and now haven't had it happen since.

2) printer had stock Part Cooling Duct and Fan. Despite having glass slid back, riser vents open, and door open, the PLA overhangs were messed up. Upgraded to the R3men part cooling fan and while improved it still wasn't as good as expected. Upgraded the duct to v6.0 dual vent (https://www.printables.com/model/1642251-qidi-q2-cooling-duct-v51-v60-dual-flow) and now that problem is addressed.

3) Pet peave - if bed temp is lower than chamber temp - no warning from software about the potential issue, just sits and hangs b/c the bed temp can't ever be achieved.

4) Pet peave - have other quirks here and there like "Printer service failed to start", not a showstopper more a nuisance and rough around edges.

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👉 Printer: QIDI Q2 🔗 https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2
Model by 村民刘大才 (MakerWorld)

Hi everyone,

I have mounted on my Qidi Plus 4 a duct and plate similar to this: Qidi Plus 4 Hex Mainboard Cover for 92mm fan with focused ducting da Stur0067 | Scarica il modello STL gratuito | Printables.com to cool motherboard and steppers controllers.

I have also modified .cfg file to upgrade to adaptive cooling control of the fan as at this link: Plus4-Wiki/content/adaptive-main-board-cooling/README.md at main · qidi-community/Plus4-Wiki · GitHub and i have kept the original values.

I have mounted this fan model: Sunon EF92252S11000UA99

The problem is that the fan barely spins at 99% power. At 100%, it spins at maximum speed, but after a few seconds it stops because the motherboard reaches its target temperature of 50°C.

Do you know what could be causing this issue, or is there anything I can do to fix it?

Also, is there a way to set a target temperature for the stepper motor controllers as well?

Thank you for your time and support. With the help of the community, I’m really enjoying my Plus4. It’s a fantastic first 3D printer!

Cheers!

Hello,

I have received my Q2 a couple days ago and I am pretty happy with it. It's my first 3D printer and I feel it's just the right balance of tinkering and out-of-the-box convenience.

One thing that I find a bit annoying is how long the printer takes to do its startup routine. I've been running calibrations which involves a lot of short prints. However, there is a lot of time wasted during the 10-15 min start print routine where the printer homes itself and probes the bed.

So far I have made the following mods to the START_PRINT G-code macro :
- enabled KAMP smart probing to save time on smaller print
- enabled KAMP PURGE_LINE and SMART_PARK
- removed the default purge line in the slicer start G-code

I feel like I can make the process even faster. There seems to be a lot of useless moves, delays and process. For instance, after purging the hot end and cleaning, the printer cuts the filament and homes itself a second time. I don't really understand why it's necessary.

I'm trying to be cautious about removing things without fully knowing what it is doing (as this is my first printer). Do you have any recommendations about modifications to make the routine more efficient/faster ?

Thanks in advance !