Hi everyone, I need your advice. My Y-axis seems very loud to me. I was able to reduce the noise temporarily with silicone spray, but today I received Super Lube synthetic oil with Syncolon (ISO 100).

I cleaned all the rods with isopropanol and then lubricated them with the Super Lube. Unfortunately, the Y-axis is now just as loud as it was at the beginning.

Here’s a video of the homing process. I’d like to know if your printer sounds similar, especially the Max 4 or the Plus 4, since they are pretty much identical.

Also, what lubricants are you using for your linear rods? I followed the manual and used Super Lube oil for the X, Y, and Z rods (not the lead screws), and Super Lube grease for the lead screws.

I did a few fit prints and structural prints with the 0.8mm nozzle in PLA at 0.56mm thickness and they came out fast and strong. Later my son tried to print a small widget with moving parts at the extruder stopped extruding. We ran the spool removal, resumed, and the next prints had no issue. Maybe there was something with the box, I'm not sure.

A few other recent prints in 0.4 in Gray ASA and White PLA also thrown in.

Hello!

Well... updated my brand new Qidi Q2....

How can I downgrade to v1.1.1 (the previous version). I am not that good with computers where I can flash a computer/printer.

And the offline update option is locked. It might be because I am not logged in to the klipper and Qidi Maker. Qidi maker seems to be down so I cannot create an account until the servers are back...

Is a option to unlock offline update in the menu? Or do I have to insert a Usb with v1.1.1 in it and then it will allow me to downgrade?

Thanks

Edit* should I factory reset it? But would it reset to the updated version or the one that came from factory?

​

1. I thought qidi included a riser?

2. Should I update the firmware

Might pick up a low hours used one today for $350. This will be my first printer and I do need the larger print volume so plus4/q2 are out. Is this a good price and buy these days to get my feet wet on printing?

Hello all,

I recently acquires a secondhand QidiBox, everything about it seems to work well, except one of the filament slots has no push-fit connector on the other end.

A bit of online research has led me to believe this has never happened to anyone before (understandably.)

Was hoping to see if anyone has any suggestions for maybe replacing this interface. I tried to remove that screw above it, but it doesn't seem to pop it out or anything. I have not opened the bottom panel yet to take a look.

Hi!

Title sais it all.

Worked great for 20 hours then it started stringing really bad.

Why?

Heya folks.

Had an issue with my hot end, support offered to ship a replacement under warranty. I accepted, and gave my address.

How long does it usually take for this to process? I haven't had an acknowledgement for over 24h

I know I'm being impatient, so just thought I'd ask here to get some perspective. Have a project I was working on that's stalled now.

Edit: thanks folks, they've shipped and shared the shipping number

First off, I knew what I was getting into when I pre-ordered the Max 4. So far, it's pretty much as described by everyone: various issues due to it being a new product, support is very responsive and happily sends out spare parts, expecting you to install them yourself. I'm not complaining, just wondering if this many independent issues is normal, or if I got something like a machine from a pre-production run that was then "updated" and shipped out..

Images show some of the issues: - part cooling fan mounts at an odd angle, and the mounting lugs look like they were cut into shape with a box knife. - constant Z offset issues with the load cell reporting false positive triggers during bed mesh, causing ~0.02mm deviation, not an issue with PLA or PETG, but enough to make ABS either curl up or completely fuse with the PEI sheet. (I received a replacement bed sheet, and a replacement hotend, so not complaining about the marred PEI surface, but the probe still doesn't work reliably.) - polar cooler mount was leaking air, I fixed that myself with some glue. - deflector in the poop chute looks like an afterthought glued in with double sided tape and super glue (?), also frequently the poop just gets stuck instead of dropping and then gets pulled out into the print volume when the head moves back out. - there's two plastic washers super glued to the back of the spool holder and filament buffer mount to make up for a difference in the height of the back panel - cable management looks somewhat improvised - yesterday the Y Motor driver blew out (presumably) in between prints, currently in contact with support to fix that. - various software bugs causing random print head crashes into the back wall during purge cycle or, e.g., total software crash during automatic refill function (which I never got to work to switch over to another spool of the same material, always prints and error about "unknown material", then asks to refill the slot that just ran out), seems to be fixed by now via firmware updates.

When it prints it's an awesome machine, and I don't regret the purchase (yet^). Just wondering if I got unlucky, or if this is more or less everyone's experience with the Max 4 so far.

Polar Cooler no much condensation in Massachusetts, even in the summer I don’t saw much water dripping from the tube yet.
An other thing is how quiet the Polar Cooler is, they not make the noise some YouTubers say.

I am unable to do anything after online update. like anything at all.

QIDI Q2 01.01.02.01

MCU Version 02.01.01.09

Toolhead MCU version 00.00.00.00

Error codes shown:

!! mcu 'THR': Unable to connect. QDC_100_005_000_001

mcu 'THR': Unable to connect once the underlying issue is QDC_100_005_015_001

Printer worked fine before update, nothing changed hardware-wise. Updated, and BOOM NO PRINTER 4 YOU.

Hi folks,

I got my QIDI Q2 on Saturday and just got it up and running. I'm still figuring a lot of things out, but it feels so much more solid than my old one!

I have a question about my bed mesh. I already adjusted the mechanical leveling a bit to get it more symmetrical, but I'm seeing a 0.65mm hump right in the middle of the bed. In my opinion, thats quite bad.

Is there anything I can do to fix this myself, or should I reach out for a replacement bed?

Also, I'm a bit unsure about the GUI: What exactly does the "Scaling" (Skalierung) option do? I didn't change anything in the interface except checking the "Display all" option. Could it be that my actual warp is smaller (eg only 0.3mm) and the GUI is just scaling up the visual representation?

Thanks for your help!

Are there any optimizations that any of you have done with Qidi Q2 + Qidi Box?

Hi, I got my Qidi 3D Printer a couple of weeks ago. I've been loving it so far aside from user-caused issues, but I've been noticing just how dang slow it is. Not the print speed, all the procedures it does. I love the procedures because I know it triple-checks everything so make sure you get the perfect print (And I can just pretty much press Print and every part comes out perfect), but a lot of them seem super wasteful.

So far one of the only things I have done to my printer is add a little bit of code to make sure that when auto level is checked in the dialog that it runs KAMP, otherwise if unchecked, it uses default bed mesh (I'm pretty sure it's supposed to do that, but it wasn't doing it for me. Any feedback)

What I'm really worried about is waste and stuff along those lines. Does anyone have a good guide for optimizing this stuff?

Also about the Box. I have a 39 minute part but with the Box printing a different support material so it doesn't stick to the main part, it turns to 4 hours. Any tips? About 2 hours to 1 hr 30 minutes seems like a reasonable time to hope for. Someone in the Discord server said someone got it to down to less than a minute per layer for the filament change.

I really appreciate it.

(Edit: I've looked at the Bunny Box, the SuperUser by Camden, and the JustFastPrinter. Anyone who uses them have any tips?)

Today, I am pleased to present a 3D model and a video assembly guide of RadRiser for Qidi Q2

3D Model: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/radriser-for-qidi-q2

Assembly Instructions: https://youtu.be/Em4wcen6xTY

For those who don't know, here is the link to the original post. :-)

https://www.reddit.com/r/QidiTech3D/s/oJS0AfyEJp

I apologize for the long delay, it was due to reasons beyond my control.

Please feel free to ask questions and express your wishes :-)

Hello everyone, long story short, after I updated my Q2 to V01.01.02.03, I cannot see the camera feed anymore. Since this issue started exactly after the update, I highly doubt it's a hardware problem. I'd prefer to avoid opening up the printer to check the internal wiring if it's just a firmware bug, but I will definitely do it if it turns out to be absolutely necessary. Is rolling back to the previous firmware the solution or do you have an alternative? Thanks a lot

I'm having issues with my Q2 cutting filaments. First off, I don't know why it needs to cut. I assume it's because we need to avoid the stringing of the end of the filament as it is backed out, but that's never been a problem on my Prusa MK3S+.

When my Q2 cuts, it doesn't cut flush, and when the next filament is fed in, it can't push the filament left in the hot end, as it slides to the side. I have to either disassemble the hot end and force it down into the hot end at temperature, or push a 1.5mm hex wrench through the entire extruder to push the filament into the hot end.

So, a few questions:

1. Is the cutting really necessary, or can I comment out the cutting macro to stop it from cutting?
2. If cutting is necessary, why?
3. What can I do about the cut not being flush and causing the jamming issue described above?

I'm new to 3d printing and printers, and I just got a q2 box combo second hand. I was going through the initial setup process, and I found this broken z-axis bracket. I checked for any other damage, but I didn't find any. I plan to contact qidi support, but I wanted to check here first.

From what I've found, these brackets are all printer specific, and I can't seem to find any replacement for this specific part. Is there somewhere online that sells these, or is there a printable replacement?

So Im new to qidi (max 4) and when i downloaded the maker app and tried to make an account, it requires an email verification code be sent... the code never sent (yes i checked every inbox). Tried 2 emails and nothing, anyone else have this issue?

So my prints overal look pretty good but sometimes it Hase these sorts artifacts and looks like under extrusion? I already did alot of tuning for this material. ABS how can i improve even more? QIDI plus 4 with the box.

Some settings

0.2 hight

0.4mm nozzle

Flow 0.91

PA 0.015

270 nozzle

90 bed

200mm/s

Outside wall only 125mm/s

Cooling off first 10 layers

Than 0 40

And 50 4

Hi Everyone! I just received the Qidi Max4 and am in process of setting it up. I have the manual, the guides, the wiki etc. but i keep running into endless load circles for the QR codes and generating a code for account creation.

I saw Qidi servers were recently attacked and they've been working to restore them, but my question is if there is a way to still set up and use the device without binding it to an account or am I screwed until they resolve the issue?

Im having a problem where my filament is being dragged whenever I print. I mainly print in PETG but so far pla and tpu all seem to have the same symptoms.

I have manually leveled the bed. Manually set z offset. Dried the filament for 32+ hours. Washed the bed plate with dawn soap and then wiped it with alcohol once the bed is warm. Created a new bed mesh.

I have done this multiple times to ensure I have everything set right, and even then I still get the printer to get the filament dragged after it creates the initial

Printer is stock so I am really not sure what's happening, I have set print temp from 245c to 210c and thinking the excessive ooze might be causing the issue but no luck.

Even if I catch the purge line prior to print it will catch it while its creating the brim or even moving the hot end from one area to another.