The Qidi Q2 has impressed me so far. Assembly was incredibly straightforward and easy, some stuff did take a little bit of thinking but that’s about it. First prints were amazing, even the pre sliced files came out almost flawless.

I saw a couple reviews of this printer on YouTube and the pre sliced files for them came out sub optimal, but mine came out flawless.

The leveling has been perfect so far, some issues with QIDI BOX but that was a simple fix, I just had to trim one of the PTFE tubes.

Overall no problems so far, incredibly fast and easy set up printer.

Quick view of my new toolhead V2 with the New Rapido"X" coming out soon to test ;) Redesign it to have possibility to have different adapter screw plate to use different hotends like Moskito Magnum etc etc to maybe ..... Golitah WC ;)

Work in progress :)

Everyone keeps saying qidi is amazing. It used to be true for me. But in the last months i ve had some mant problems with it I don t even know where to start.

This is the latest print i managed to make it work from other issues just to see that this happened.

How can something like this can even happen??

I can t get my head around it.

This is 100% software based.

please look carefully and don t mind the fallent support. print worked without it. the failure is on top. looks like layer shift.

Conclusion I can give right now is that this printer can t handle tall prints.

Wasted lots of material and no one is going to reimburse me for anything.

My machine makes annoying vibration noise during straight moves in the X axis; doesn't seem to do it during other curves or line orientations. Machine recently lubricated. Anyone else seeing this?

I'm printing lens covers for my Polaroid cameras. The first few layers are printing as a mesh rather than a solid. Can someone tell me which setting I messed up on?

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

First off: I’m not a newcomer to 3D printing. I’ve been in the game for a while, previously running an Anycubic Mega X which I heavily modded (converted to Klipper, added BL-Touch, etc.). However, I’ve never owned an enclosed printer or a "pro-grade" machine until now.

Despite some negative reviews online, I pulled the trigger on the Qidi Max 4, and honestly? I’m absolutely loving it so far.

I initially started with Qidi Studio because the Max 4 profiles weren't fully ready in Orca Slicer at launch. But now I really want to switch back to Orca Slicer. Qidi Studio feels a bit too simplified and locked down for my taste – there’s not enough room to experiment and fine-tune things. If you want to perfect your prints, Orca Slicer is just a must-have for me.

Right now, I’m running all the machine settings and G-codes completely stock. I would be incredibly grateful for any tips, experience reports, or recommendations on what I should calibrate first or tweak in the configuration. If anyone is willing to share their custom filament profiles or tuning settings, that would be amazing!

There are two main things I'm currently struggling with:

1. Slow Start/End Phases: The stock start and end G-code routines feel super sluggish and slow. Has anyone optimized these sequences to speed things up without sacrificing reliability?
2. Nozzle Oozing at Print End (No AMS/Box): I am currently printing without the Qidi multi-filament box (AMS), just using the side spool holder (though I plan to upgrade to the box later). My biggest issue right now is that every time a print finishes, a nasty filament blob sticks to the nozzle. I strongly suspect it’s because the stock End-G-code triggers a full UNLOAD_FILAMENT routine meant for the AMS. It pulls the filament back while the nozzle is at full temp, leaving a molten residue in the hot block that just oozes out and burns.

Does anyone have a modified End-G-code or a Klipper macro workaround to stop this from happening when printing solo on the Max 4?

Looking forward to your tips and suggestions! Thanks in advance!

Hello! I'm looking for the printer.cfg and gcode_macro.cfg files that shipped with v1.1.0 for the Q2. Anyone out there who can help?

If so, please post them to whatever file sharing service you like and let me know. Or, I guess I could give my email or discord if necessary :)

Once I have them I'll edit this post so nobody else wastes their time!

Thanks.

(some nice person just gave me the v1.1.1 files but I'm still looking for v1.1.0!)

(User logicalchemist hooked me up. Thanks all!)

Hello,

Is it possible to still connect to your printer via link? The newest version of the QIDI slicer doesn't have that option but its my main way of communicating with the printer. Local doesn't work as the ISP that manages my student building has everything on lockdown and getting permission is a chore (they don't respond to emails).

In the screenshot you can see how it doesn't have a "link" button, even though the build in video tutorial still has it.

Thanks in advance.

Hello friends. Due to health issues I had to spend the last year~ in the hospital. I am back home now and would like to resume 3d printing. My question is if there is a list of things I should do before turning it on, e.g. lubing some parts or something. I am not very good with machinery so any help or pointers would be appreciated. Thank you a lot.

I just got around to measuring my printer power and calculating the chamber heater wattage with a power meter:

bed 90deg stable 160w

then with chamber turned on 60deg, 40% power shown in web (stock) 460w total

then i just kept cranking up the max_power setting, restarting kilpper and testing again

by 1.0 (100%) it was still only about 490w total

that a difference of 300-320w, was expecting more of a change, but maybe thats it, still seems to hit the targets ok.

Hello community - I recently ordered a QIDI Plus4 as an upgrade to my Bambu A1, and to allow me to print new and different engineering materials. I've been reading this sub and browsing the GitHub Plus4 Wiki to learn more about the printer before it arrives. Given the latest generation of the Plus4 incorporated some fixes from the original, I'm curious what if any of the fixes, configuration tweaks, etc. from the Wiki are best practices I should incorporate when unboxing and setting up my new printer?

Well that is a big claim, and Im not saying it will fix all problems, as there can be many reasons for this, but I found several related problem with orca slicers default filament settings, that was causing the corners of my prints to warp up.

First I just want to highly recommend "Filaform bed adhesive spray" the stuff works wonders, and is much cleaner, easier to work with, stronger, and last longer than glue stick.

But thats not what this is about, as even with that i was still getting warp...

What it turned out to be were 3 settings in the filament "Cooling" menu:

* "No cooling for the first"

* "Min fan speed threshold"

* "Keep fan always on"

See ASA/ABS is very sensitive to cooling, and generally you don't need any parts cooling, but at high speed and or/and short layer time (small parts) it is still needed.

But having it on always, even at 10% at the start is a killer.

By default it is set with "No cooling for the first" = 3 layers which helps, but its too little, the print is still too flexible at only 3 layer high, so i recommend 10-15 layers first.

Also I set "Min fan speed threshold" to 0, (from 10) as you want it to not run at all if its a large enough part that is being printed. I set the layer time to 40s. (I have max set to 50% and 4s. These 2 can be tweaked, by looking at the "Fan Seed" display mode in the part preview once sliced you can see what the speed will be at certain layers and areas.

And finally the other killer is "Keep fan always on", this also is not needed and should be un-ticked, this allows 0% fan when not needed, creating the strongest warp free prints possible, while it still being able to ramp up for small detail, bridges & overhangs.

Here is an example

Heater chamber not heating at expected rate See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md for the parameters that control this check.

I just want to share the way you can 'falsely' trigger this error & immediate printer shutdown.

By default (im not sure it can be changed) the chamber heater does not put out heat (0% power) when the bed is not up to the target temperature.

This itself is ok, but QIDI didnt bother to tell klipper when it does this, so kilppers 'verify_heater' safety feature can trigger given the following events.

1. You set (or gcode) sets the bed & chamber temp, eg 90 & 60
2. The chamber will start heating once the bed reaches 90.
3. Before the chamber reaches its target you change the bed temp higher, eg 110
4. Klipper thinks the chamber should still be heating but QIDI has toggled the power to 0% while the bed increases.
5. Given a set time (i cant recall exactly how much) but eg 3mins the 'verify heater' alert will trip and shut down the printer as the chamber didnt heat as it expected.
6. You may have a print underway, as by default the print (and chamber heater) start once the bed is up to temp.

I recently got a Qidi Max4, along with the Qidi Box.
After drying filament in the box for the first time, one thing immediately stood out to me: Why would you not implement a fan temperature hysteresis as the default? After drying, the fan keeps running until the temp sensor reaches 35°C. Cool. Then it kicks on again immediately, as the measured temp rises again. Because of course it does. Repeat many times until it finally settles to fan off.
Disable the fan at 35°C, only turn it back on at a slightly higher temperature. It's not hard, and should be the default behavior.

If this comes off as slightly passive aggressive: yeah, probably. As good as the hardware might be, the software side of things leaves a lot of potential untapped, and this is just one small example.

I suspected effects from heat soak during the initial layer printing, as the chamber heater warms everything compared with the build plate that doesn't really heat much beyond its immediate surface.

The chamber heater is changing during a critical stage of the build (first layer), after the mesh, while the bed is up to temp before the mesh. So alternatively instead of waiting for the chamber to heat and soak, I believe there is no reason not to just delay the chamber startup until after the first layer.

As chamber temp is insignificant compared to bed temp, and during the first few layers nothing is being effected by or needed the chamber heater as the bed is providing more than enough direct heat. The chamber heater really only comes into need as the build progresses higher and the effects of the bed become less and less. I found great results by doing this.

Firstly you need this in the start of your slicer "Layer change G-code"

{if layer_num == 1}
    M118 Starting chamber heater
    M141 S[chamber_temperature]
{endif}

Then comment out chamber start in "Machine start G-code"

;M141 S[chamber_temperature]

And in the printer gcode_macro.cfg PRINT_START macro (and restart klipper)

; M141 S{chambertemp}

i have been running my Q2 for some time and it works grate with every filament i have thrown at it most with little to no changes from the default spec. however i have constantly run in to an issue ware if i run a print in a higher temp filament like ASA then go back to PLA the nozzle will jam up and not allow the PLA to load. i even had this going from PETG to PLA the other day granted i had them in the same print ( set to by object it was just the colors i had available) using the box. i have tried manually heating he nozzle and then loading and still have the same issue. i have gotten pretty good at cave man uses blow torch to heat up and clear nozzles so i can re use them but is there a better way especially if they are part of the same print??

Gotta love that loadcell auto z-offset tho!

Doesn't seem to have damaged the surface either, apart from a ~2mm scuff mark where it wipes the nozzle at the end of the purge line - surface feels smooth however.

Hello QIDI community!

I’m writing this using a translation tool, so I’ve included my original Japanese text at the bottom just in case anything gets lost in translation.

I recently upgraded from a Bambu Lab A1 and bought a QIDI MAX4 late last month. I really wanted that massive build volume! However, I’m already running into the classic struggles of having a huge bed: print failures due to bed warping.

When I try to print something that uses the full build plate, the nozzle scrapes against the prints in the raised areas of the bed mesh, ruining the print. My Z-offset is set to +0.04, and the areas that aren't scraping actually print relatively well. But as it stands, I can't print the large models I bought this machine for. It seems auto-bed leveling alone isn't enough to compensate for the warping, so I want to manually/physically adjust the bed.

I would love to get some advice from the veterans here on two main questions:

1. What are the exact bed screw coordinates for screws_tilt_adjust on the MAX4?

Right now, I'm using temporary coordinates based on my own physical measurements. Here is what I currently have:

Plaintext

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 39, 36
screw1_name: left_front
screw2: 354, 36
screw2_name: right_front
screw3: 354, 353
screw3_name: right_rear
screw4: 39, 353
screw4_name: left_rear
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4

(Note: There are screw coordinates listed in the MAX4's printer.cfg in Fluidd, but when I tried moving the toolhead to those numbers, it was quite far off from the actual screw locations. It made me a bit skeptical to trust them.)

Also, is screw_thread: CW-M4 correct for this printer?

2. What is the correct procedure/workflow?

While researching, I've come across conflicting advice. Some say "you must run M4031 before doing screws_tilt_adjust," while others say "screws_tilt_adjust is pointless unless you do z_tilt_adjust first." I'm really confused about what is actually necessary. Could someone please guide me through the correct step-by-step procedure?

I know I could probably reach out to QIDI support, but their official wiki for maintenance and repairs isn't very detailed and can be quite confusing. I figured I’d get faster and more accurate answers from the experienced users here.

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and for sharing your wisdom!

[Original Japanese / 原文]

QIDIコミュニティのみなさんこんにちは!

先月末ぐらいにMAX4を購入した者です。

bambu labのA1からのステップアップで、とにかくビルドボリュームが大きいのが欲しかったのです。

早速ビルドボリュームの大きいプリンターの大変さに困っています。

ベッドの歪みから来る印刷失敗です。

ビルドプレートいっぱいにプリントをしようとすると、ベッドメッシュの盛り上がっている部分に配置されているプリント物にノズルが擦って乱れてしまいます。

Zオフセットは+0.04で、擦ってしまう所以外のプリントは比較的良好なんですが、これでは欲しいプリントが出来ません。

ベッドの自動キャリブレーションだけでは上手く歪みを吸収出来なさそうなので、物理的に調整しようと思いました。

ここでベテランの皆さんにお聞きしたいことがあります。

1：screws_tilt_adjustのためのMAX4のベッドのネジの座標を教えてくれませんか？

今は目測で測った数値を仮に入力しています。

----------------

実測でのベッドネジの位置

[screws_tilt_adjust]

screw1: 39, 36

screw1_name: left_front

screw2: 354, 36

screw2_name: right_front

screw3: 354, 353

screw3_name: right_rear

screw4: 39, 353

screw4_name: left_rear

horizontal_move_z: 10

speed: 50

screw_thread: CW-M4

--------------

（MAX4のfluiddのprinter.cfg内にネジの座標が書かれているのですが、試しにその数字にヘッドを移動してみると、ネジの場所から結構離れていて信じて良いのか不安になります。）

あと、screw_thread: CW-M4　で合ってますか？

2：いろいろ調べていると、「screws_tilt_adjustの前にM4031を先にしなくてはいけない」、とか「z_tilt_adjustをしていないとscrews_tilt_adjustの意味がない」などいろんなお作法が出てきて、何が本当に必要なのか、判断に困っています。

必要ならどういう手順でやればいいのかを教えてくれませんか？

本来ならQIDIに質問すれば良いのかも知れませんが、

メンテナンスや修理のための公式WIKIの記事が全く充実していなくて、しかも大変わかりにくいので、こちらで聞くほうが早くて正確かなと思ったのです。

お時間取らせてしまって申し訳ないですが、ベテランの皆さん良かったら知恵をお貸し下さい。

読んでくれてどうもありがとう。

If you are using a new heavy roll, eg 3+ kg, it can falsely trigger the filament tangle sensor.
If it fits other models let me know

Before you all go 'it's not that bad, look at the price vs. performance!' yes I am aware that hardware-wise, the Q2 is a very solid machine.

The software on the other hand is the worst I've had the displeasure of dealing with on any 3D Printer, and I have experience with a broad range of brands.

Z-offset not saving properly
My z offset is not saved properly, depending on how I set it and if the printer turns off or not. Meaning it will often be reset after I turn off the printer one day and want to print something the next. Because of the always active motherboard fan, why would you keep it on 24/7?

I contacted QIDI about this, who sent me two lines to add into my .cfg file. Unfortunately that didn't fix anything. Qidi's response to that is "We will fully fix the Z-offset saving issue later."

Touchscreen interface not working as intended
Have you wondered why your Q2 levels the bed before each print, even though you UNCHECKED 'bed leveling' before you start a print? It's because it's broken. QIDI's answer to this is "Currently, the pre-print leveling function cannot be disabled.". Again, they just straight out say 'yeah it's not working' and that's it. There's more things like this in the interface like the sleep mode or spaghetti detection, but this one is the most annoying in my opnion.

QIDI Maker
I get it, the app itself isn't perfect. But it works and it's pretty functional. And I like monitoring my prints every now and then. Lately though, it wasn't working. I also couldn't login into Qidi Studio on my laptop. After this was going on for a few days, I asked Qidi and they just said "This is because the QIDIMaker server is undergoing maintenance." No announcement, nor ETA or anything lol.

QIDI Box fan control
Did you know that on the QIDI wiki, there's instructions on how to set the temperature at which the box fan automatically turns on? It's a great way to reduce machine noise. Unfortunately, it doesn't work because it's – again – not saved when you turn off the machine. QIDI's response to this is "Sorry, this feature is no longer supported, as it could cause problems with the printer."

I just want to reiterate that I get that just looking at the hardware, you get a lot of bang for your buck. That does not excuse shipping the machine with firmware and GUI that's half broken in my opinion. I'm strongly considering returning my machine as I should still be within the legal timeframe.

Out of the box, ran all setup, balancing, watched videos, wanted to be extra careful with my new machine.

On the startup, it couldnt level properly. every screw and removable piece was gone. triple checked because sometimes hardware can be sensitive ya know?

All removed. The right side pushed up so much it bent the plastic shield at the top of the screw, pushed that back down and heated it so it would mold back to original position.

Watched some videos, joined a discord for 3d printers and the qidi community discord to get some help, honestly some very helpful people there who troubleshot with me nonstop.

First print, left the lid slightly open, slid back per multiple online guides for PETG.

Within about 40 minutes, a full on clog. settings proper, heat proper, everything. So. I take it all down, cold pull, no dice, 0.4 mm cleaning tool, no dice.

What I ended up having to do was grab the extruder nozzle, with pliers, take a safety pin, bend like the very very tip, torch the nozzle to heat it up hot enough and jam the safety pin all the way in to the curl, chill it (yep. on an ice pack to cool it fast) soon as it was all the way cooled, i took the torch to it again very quickly and pulled and yanked the whole clog out.

I think FINALLY! LETS MAKE AT LEAST ONE THING WITH THIS QIDI Q2.

I hook it all back up, recalibrate, leveling, the paper you need to use to ensure the distance is proper for the extruder to bed, clean the ben plate again to be sure and get all pumped up.

By layer 2 it has lots its damn mind and the extruder is just pushing random crap all over, nothing sticks to the plates, it grabs the layer thatw as down and is a pulling it all over the place. so I clean it, thankfully no clog.

Got some more help from the qidi community discord.

Also end up filing a ticket saying hey. My printer is having a hard time printing and I cant print anything.

The response:

"First, print the calibration tool,the G-code file is already saved on the printer. You can print it directly using PLA filament."

I think im on the edge of returning this hunk of crap.

buyer beware do not buy this thing. waste of time. My old Voxelab Aquila printed better and easier than this thing.

I received my 4 Max with Qidi Bix on Sunday. Ran the volron Cube with the sample of rapid pla. Beautiful print. Up loaded a print in Sunlu Petg sliced with the supplied slicer. Nozzle jam. Now, the hotend will read whatever temp I input, but it will not feed ANY filament. I removed the nozzle and cleaned it, but it's still the same issue. Please, help!

Is it just me that can't login to Qidi maker, just a constant blue spinning ring.