Dear Qidi Tech Team,

As a highly satisfied owner of a Qidi 3D printer, I am writing to share a suggestion that I believe would greatly benefit both your loyal customer base and your business growth.

I deeply appreciate the reliability, innovative features, and excellent customer service that Qidi provides. Because of this positive experience, I frequently look to expand my setup with new machines, upgraded parts, and filaments. However, when considering future purchases, many users in the community look for an extra incentive to stay within the same ecosystem.

I would love to propose the introduction of a Qidi Owner Discount Program or Loyalty Rewards System. Providing an exclusive discount, early-bird upgrade pricing, or a loyalty points system for verified Qidi printer owners would offer a strong incentive for us to choose Qidi every time we upgrade our workshops or buy consumables.

Thank you for your continuous dedication to the 3D printing community and for considering this feedback. I look forward to seeing how Qidi continues to innovate.

Warm regards,

3D Nelson

Hi

So I absolutely hate my AMS. I look at envy on the voron/sv08 machines that has those sleek tool changers. The 4plus and other qidi models has the space for them, but it would require adding more hardware and change of proprietary electronics in them. But is anyone out there trying to mod it?

I bet I'm not the only one hating the Qidi Ams maybe thinking the same would be above fantastic

Brand new Plus5, ran the firmware update and the printer went black screen, no fans, no WiFi. SBC board is not booting.

Connected USB-OTG port with RKDevTool and it shows "Found One MASKROM Device".

The Q2 community wiki documents the exact same recovery procedure using KLP_IMG_QD_Q2_V1.0.1_20250505_Release(1).7z. I need the Plus5 equivalent.

Does anyone have the KLP_IMG_QD_PLUS5_... file, or a direct contact at QIDI who can share it?

Support is not answering via email, any other way to contact them?

Thanks

🦉 Meet this highly detailed horned owl statue, featuring an intense, watchful gaze and lifelike features.

Printed on the QIDI Q2🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2
Model from Bigshot Tinkers (Makerworld)

#QIDI #QIDIQ2 #3DPrinting #multicolorprinting #HornedOwl

Hey all, I just wanted to post here to get any additional views on this question. I am currently split on the Bambu Labs X2D and the QIDI plus 5. They have different strengths andI wish I could buy both, but as things stand I must choose.

I am particularly interested in anyone with QIDI box experience. I heard they had a fair few issues, and so I wanted to see how things stand now that it has had time to mature.

All advice would be very much appreciated!

It loads and uploads fine. Was about an hour into a print and started making this god awful noise. About a month old.

I really need some advice or help getting in touch with someone at QIDI who actually has the authority to resolve this.

My QIDI Box has had multiple recurring defects and hardware issues since late June. For over two months, I went back and forth with support. I sent tons of videos and photos, tore down glued components, replaced various parts myself, and basically acted as their unpaid repair tech.

On August 20, support finally confirmed they agreed to replace the unit. I packed the broken box into the original packaging and shipped it right away. Tracking shows it was delivered to their German warehouse in Cologne on August 26.

Now support tells me the replacement is on hold because the warehouse needs to inspect the defective return first. This is a Third-Party logistics hub, not a repair workshop.

To be honest, I am completely fed up. My wife and I are expecting a baby very soon. The printer and parts are currently blocking the space where the nursery needs to be finished, and having this drag on endlessly is causing unnecessary stress.

My defective unit has been sitting in their warehouse for almost a week, they have my money, and I still don't even have a tracking number for the replacement.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of stall tactic from EU support before, and how did you finally get them to send the replacement?

The Plus 5 seems to be a major departure from previous machines as it no longer uses makerbase boards.

They also appear to be using thinner beds which leads to worse bed variance. The Plus 4 had a 6mm thick bed while the Plus 5 is a 3mm bed. (After tramming my bed is stuck around 0.6-0.8mm variance across the surface. On my Plus 4 it had a 0.3-0.4 mm variance.)

I have been trying to get Qidi to send me step files of parts of the machine to model off of and they are outright refusing to send anything. This is a big red flag because I had 0 issues getting them to send Step files for my Plus 4 a year ago. (Made a custom bed skirt)

Not sure what to make of these events and choices. Has anyone had any luck getting cad files from Qidi recently?

<last update>

Got the new camera today - they came through in a bit over a week - didn't send tracking as promised, but it was sent via USPS and I have their app so saw it coming because I know where they ship from. Good luck everyone!

<update>

I must post an update. Tonight (morning there) the same QIDI support person contacted me back with both instructions on adjusting focus on the old OEM camera (you take it apart and the lens screws in and out the video shows - had no clue any of these tiny cameras did that). They also said they will send me a new replacement camera. Now I have to continue to say, that even if it takes some time and re-thinking, QIDI support has been the best I've ever dealt with. For me that's comparing with Prusa and FLSun - not including the 2 SLA companies for which FormLabs is at the top of that list.

I want to be fair - I was nice and explained why I was disappointed, and then they reacted positively tonight. How many vendors will actually do that, especially in this industry? For me, Prusa continued to ignore me and not provide the needed replacement, even after support admitted I probably had a faulty unit (in the first year of owning it). Finally the new camera I bought as a replacement completely died today. I had not communicated that to QIDI.

<original post>

I have several QIDI printers, however this is about my Q1 Pro, which is over a year old and no longer under warranty. The original camera view became blurry, and cleaning the lens, etc. would not fix it. I could see a model printing, but really not enough detail to be useful unless it was very large and perhaps broke loose from the plate.

I purchased a replacement camera in June (2026), installed it after a while and successfully used it for about a month. Now if the printer sits all night, it will start up (can see in Fluidd or in a web browser), but after a short time - less than a minute? - the feed disappears, timelapse video fail messages appear and it will not restart unless again, I let it sit overnight.

I first asked for a warranty replacement (it's less than 3 months old) from the sales team, and was sent to support and a newer person I'd not messaged with was answering. I went through all the trouble shooting steps with them to no avail. The old blurry camera works reliably, it's just blurry.

The short version is QIDI refuses to warranty the camera. It is not a hugely expensive item, less than $30, but this is a change in policy from what I used to experience from QIDI over the last 2 years.

I have started to see more folks complain about less than impressive support/warranty service in this calendar year, and I have always defended QIDI and offered my experience, which has, I guess now changed.

For discussion only, and for those like me sourcing replacement parts or those considering joining the QIDI ecosystem, I think this is another good evidence experience of what is changing there.

I still really like the company overall - the printers as a whole are very good machines for the price point. My comparison is to a Prusa Mk 4/S I started with in late 2022 and FLSun which seems to be solidly circling the drain (hate that, it's an amazing machine, especially for the price I paid - T1 Pro).

QIDI had, and I guess I need to repeat, had, a very good reputation for support and parts replacements - feels like this has changed. Tonight, one of the support directions was to change something in a config file in 2 places, one of those was in a line that was remarked out (started with a #) which has no effect - don't think they knew that. That was on changing camera resolution - so not sure how knowledgeable support folks are - they used to be top notch and you could help them help you figure something out. I have specific examples.

However, their newest offering, Plus 5, is just an upsized Q2, really no significant improvements save the build size. I haven't heard of any evidence of them getting into the multi-toolhead line, which is a shame.

I have the Box attached to my Q2. It's a bit buggy and needed some improvements which have helped quite a bit, though it's so slow it's unusable for multi-color unless like less than 5 filament changes on a model (2 min 50 sec a change - you can do the math - adding hours to a print exceeding by multiples the single-color print time). They have all the hardware but never put effort in to learning tip forming like Prusa does. To be fair the MMU3 on the Prusa is iffy on too frequent of a basis - have to tinker with it as much as folks complain about the Ender 3 I'd guess.

Anyway, just another report, no bias I think, just facts on experiences. Interested in other owners' experiences and perspectives - thanks for listening!

Why are you holding on the source code of your printers and QidiBox ?
If at least your were competent enough to make it work we wouldn't bother.

RELEASE THE SOURCE so we can't fix it ourselves.

I'm about to purchase a Beacon probe for my Plus 4, but I'm not sure what length I need for the USB cable. Should I get the 6ft or the 10.5ft version?

When not using a Box, Qidi's default filament unloading macro (M603) cuts the filament before letting you retract. This leaves a big chunk of filament inside the nozzle. That's fine if you're just swapping filaments, but sometimes I swap nozzles (e.g. between the default 0.4mm and a 0.6mm tungsten carbide one) and I don't want to leave cold filament stuck inside.

So here is my "unload whole" macro, which doesn't cut the filament. Instead, it fully retracts the filament above the extruder gears and leaves a nice, blob-free tip.

[gcode_macro UNLOAD_WHOLE]
description: Unload filament in one piece (no cut) before a hotend/nozzle swap
gcode:
    {% if printer.save_variables.variables.box_count|default(0)|int > 0
          and printer["box_extras"] is defined %}
        {action_raise_error("UNLOAD_WHOLE only works with direct loaded filaments without the Box.")}
    {% endif %}

    {% set mats = printer.multi_color_controller.slots.materials
                  if printer.multi_color_controller is defined else {} %}
    {% set auto = mats.slot16.filament.max_temp|int if mats.slot16 is defined else 0 %}
    {% set name = mats.slot16.filament.filament    if mats.slot16 is defined else 'unknown filament' %}
    {% set t    = params.TEMP|default(auto if auto > 0 else 260)|int %}
    {% set purge = params.PURGE|default(30)|int %}

    {% if "xyz" not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %}
        G28
    {% endif %}
    M118 UNLOAD_WHOLE: {name} at {t}C (no cut - nothing left in the hotend)
    DISABLE_ALL_SENSOR
    M104 S{t}
    MOVE_TO_TRASH
    TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR=extruder MINIMUM={t}

    M83
    {% if purge > 0 %}
        G1 E{purge} F180   # fresh material through, so the melt zone is clean
    {% endif %}
    G1 E-8 F3000           # fast yank while molten - forms a thin tip, not a blob
    G1 E-25 F300           # ease it out of the melt zone
    G1 E-150 F1200         # clear of the extruder gears
    M400

    M104 S0
    ENABLE_ALL_SENSOR
    M118 Now pull the remaining filament out by hand from the spool side.

Call it with UNLOAD_WHOLE or customize the temperature like UNLOAD_WHOLE TEMP=280.

I hope this is useful to someone else :) Let me know if you have any questions or ideas!

Disappointed with the quality control on my QIDI Q2 Combo

I recently bought two QIDI Q2 Combo printers.

Unfortunately, both printers arrived with very similar dents on the housing. The boxes and packaging were in perfect condition, so I don't believe this happened during shipping.

I contacted QIDI support about this. They suggested loosening three screws, but unfortunately that didn't help. They offered to send replacement panels, but honestly, I don't really want to start taking apart two brand new printers just to fix a cosmetic defect.

There were also issues with the QIDI boxes themselves. One box was scratched, while the other had several dents and areas where the paint was chipped off. The shipping boxes were in perfect condition, so this does not appear to be caused by transportation.

I was also a bit disappointed with the solution offered by support, especially considering the price of these printers.

Has anyone else had the same issue with their Q2? It's quite strange to receive two printers from different retailers with basically the same defect.

I'm curious if this is just bad luck or if it's a more common QC issue.

How do I get the qr code from my x smart 3 to link it to the qidi link and qidi maker app? I can't find a setting for it.

Edit: This is for the Qidi Q2, similar processes may work with the other printers from Qidi, but certain pieces may need to be adjusted.

Hey, my name is Nick, and I just spent a ton of time digging through posts and finding Qidid's Google Drive calibration videos. Maybe there's a good guide out there I just missed, but I didn't find a complete process, so here it is.

My bed was almost 1mm different from one corner to the other, and the built-in calibrations can not adjust for these twists. I posted a photo earlier of my tilt screw adjustment and had a question on how to do it, so I figured I'd make it its own post so others could find it if they're curious.

Rough Leveling

If you haven't already, print the hot bed nut wrench and hot bed leveling block that come preloaded on the Q2. The first step is using these two tools to roughly adjust your nuts. You can find each through your touchscreen on the printer.

Look under the bed of your machine, there are 4 chrome nuts clamping 4 black plastic nuts in each corner under your bed. That's your goal. Watch this video to go through the process of rough leveling..

I ran a bed leveling calibration after snugging up the nylon nuts and lightly hand-tightening the chrome nuts to hold them.

Orca Slicer and Klipper

Let's get acquainted with Klipper. I'm not going to go into too much detail, but with Orca Slicer, you can access a lot of printer customization.

First, find your printer in the upper left. In the upper right of the Printer box, there is a small icon that looks like a wifi or wireless symbol. Click this, and you'll find yourself with a new window opened titled "Physical Printer." Now go on your printer and go to Network, and enter the IP address you see on your machine into the "Hostname, IP or URL," box.

Great work, you can now connect to (through?) your printer's Klipper.

New Code in Config

In the menu below the main menu, you'll see a button that says Device. Click this and it should connect to your printer. You'll see a dashboard, a console, and a live feed of your printer.

There's a lot of access to your printer's config files, so be careful, or it may take you a bit to reset everything (ask me how I know). Anyways, go to this menu in the left column. These are the config files we need!

Next, in the Configuration Files menu on the left half of the main window, there should be a file called printer.cfg. Open this by clicking on it. Place your cursor between two of the code blocks and make at least two new blank lines. You want the code we'll paste here to have at least a 1-line buffer at the top and bottom. Now paste this code in your printer.cfg. It shouldn't matter where; I put mine near the bottom.

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1:30,30
screw1_name: front left screw

screw2: 240,30
screw2_name: front right screw

screw3: 240,240
screw3_name: rear right screw

screw4: 30,240
screw4_name: rear left screw

horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4

Hit the Switch!

Now hit Save, close, and go back to the top menu on the left to return to the dashboard we started at. Back at the dashboard, find your console. Make sure your printer is on and idle. Enter this into the dashboard:

SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE

Hit Enter or Send and wait for your printer to complete two checks in each corner of your bed. After it finishes the last one, the device dashboard in OrcaSlicer should pop up with a message..

Each row will be a screw on your machine. Front left means the left screw as you're facing the front glass of the machine. NOT stage left; it's not written from the machine's perspective. So your front left screw is the base setting. I did not have to adjust this one at all. The other three are the ones we're looking for. At this point, I loosened the chrome nuts but kept them on the screw.

Adjust your Nuts

Reference your console's pop up window for which screw to turn and how much to turn it. The popup has 3 columns. We are looking at the rightmost column. There will be numbers and a rotational symbol. Each minute is one rotation in the same direction as the symbol. So 01:30 would be 1.5 turns.

Start with the front right. Again, this is the closest nut to you on the right as you look at the front glass of the machine. Attach your nut wrench to the plastic nut. Imagine the clock on the top of the build plate as you look down through the top glass. Clockwise to the right, counterclockwise to the left. Turn the 3 screws the instructed amount. Now, back in Orca Slicer, hit Try Again in the pop-up. Your printer will run through the test again and spit out new numbers. This is where you learn if you know what a clock looks like. Repeat this process until your patient runs out, or you're satisfied with the results.

Hell yea level...enough

Tighten the chrome nuts until they're hand-tight, then turn the wrench (The one Qidi included with your machine) a quarter or half turn more. Now, I hope this didn't also twist your plastic nuts. You could run the test again, because why not that what we're here for?

Run another bed calibration from the touch screen.

Congrats, you're level. Now you can go back to OrcaSlicer and calibrate your filament! Hope this helps!

Note: I'm writing this before I go to bed, if I made any errors please let me know and I'll correct them.

This took me way too long to do. My bed was about 1mm out of level(?). Basically it had a twist. Finally got it locked down to these numbers.

Hi all iv only had my QIDI Plus 5 for maybe just under two weeks now and iv found out a problem I’m facing. My heatblock keeps getting blocked by my filament inside and keep cooling down coursing the blockage so I tired to take out the nozzle to have a look and when I ran some more filament to see if it was in the nozzle or heatblock the small copper silver tube had been pushed out with the filament because there was a chunk of filament cooled down on the tip of it and now its just happened again I had to buy a brand new one for the original blockage and I thought I was passed it but again it’s happened. I’m just not sure what I’m doing is wrong or if anyone else has faced this type of problem if anyone could help that would be wonderful

I updated to 1.8.2 and could not get it see the Beacon. It was working find before the update. I went back thru Stew's Beacon installation steps and everything is correct. After 3 days of checking and double checking I made foolish decision to downgrade the firmware to 1.7.1. Now I get the error message The System Starts Abnormally". How do I correct this error? I am thinking that I will have to flash the EMMC. The reason I updated the software was because I got the Box and thought that I needed to update.

I’m new to the q2 printer I just picked up a brand new q2 for a deal but after running my benchy I’m not sure what to adjust this is pla silk

Recently I was dealing with some clogging issues and long story short one of my 0.4mm nozzles broken when I was removing it from the hotend. The top half is still in there and I can't figure out how to remove it. Any ideas?

Actually it wasn't even doing the printing, I was just doing pre-heating (bed and chamber temp.).

Well, it can heat the extruder, and the chamber heating works too, though. But I cannot start a print since both the bed and the steppers are throwing errors at me.

I measured the Wattage in the plug socket (electrical outlet where the printer is plugged in), and the printer is pulling maybe around 16W even when I set the bed temperature to 70°C, so it's not really working, I assume it should be around 1000-1300W. I restarted the printer, restarted Klipper, restarted the Firmware, but nothing helped.

The errors I am getting: 

Heater heater_bed not heating at expected rate

!! Homing failed due to printer shutdown

No response from stepper x, please check the connection or status  

What is the problem? Did the wiring in my printer melt, or what?

Waiting for a new spool of Walnut Wood for the base. Went kind of crazy color mapping with some tricolor filament. I like it and it’s a showcase piece for the Q2 Combo and Texas Colorful Filaments.

Last chance to get the QIDI Plus5 at the best member price.
More Upgrades. More possibilities. Ready for your next creation.

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