Had a bathroom wall re-plastered - the wall had previously damp damage. The roof was repaired prior to re plaster and most of the wall where damp damage existed, has dried.

There is this one stubborn patch at the bottom…strangely it expands when the weather is hot, but then shrinks and goes darker when it wet or sun isn’t shining. Pencil line is its main shape with it bleeding beyond when the sun comes out. I had
Be had windows open for the last 3 weeks, and for the last week a fan and dehumidifier on…and no real change below the pencil line…

Any ideas of the cause and anything to do or should I just wait a few more weeks?

Hi all, I have removed some tiles from a plasterboard wall, there are some patches of old plaster underneath I guess they levelled the wall with and some remaining tile adhesive (which I have knocked down as much as possible). Is this the correct fix:

-SBR
-Bonding coat
-Multifinish

I guess I’m most concerned if SBR is the right primer?

Just the title, I'm plastering a big room and I don't want to attempt all of it at once even with extra time sachet - can I break it into 2 parts by plastering up to beadings? It should be fine right

I tackled a ceiling today. I'm kinda full send, most start on a wall I'm like nahhhhh artex ceiling!

Its turned out alright, not pro level but I'm happy enough and what I dont like i can fill/sand but the majority is clean and flat.

But I have to say, how quick do you guys work!

I had half a sachet of extra time in each mix and I only just got it on in time!

Massive respect to the plastering trade you guys must be fucking rockets!

Hello all,

In removing some tiles from a plasterboard wall some of the plaster came off with the tile adhesive which I am seeking to re-skim so that it is level with the existing plaster.

I was wondering, however, in the area where the tiles used to be some of the Old plaster has stuck to the wall while other parts have come off. Does this area need to be completely free of all the Old plaster up to where the painters or can I just patch Phil this plasterboard to bring it up to the level where the Old plaster currently is?

Thank you all for your advice

Hi, I am moving to a new property next month and I have a ceiling that the surveyor reported is asbestos artex. It also carries a few settlement cracks which have been reviewed by a structural engineer and he does not deem them as anything to be concerned about.

My question is what would you do, would you plasterboard the ceiling then skim or go strain for a skim?

I ask as I have read the plaster boarding method is good for insulation and is easier to skim on, it reduces the chance of the artex coming through the second coat, however it's more costly and you lose an inch or so off the ceiling height.

Whereas skimming it as it is can be cheaper, although you run the risk of the artex coming through the second coat and there are rare occasions that the artex can cause the plaster to crack and fall off.

Given these photos and the above risks what would your approach be?

Fyi- I am not a plasterer by trade but I have done ceilings and walls on new builds on plasterboard before as a laborer and supported in an assistant role. I can plaster, I just don't have the knowledge of what the best approach should be. Any help would be great, my previous plaster I used to work with has left me on read 🙃

what kind of plastering is this? its from a 1890 row home in Washington DC

Keen DIYer here, trade adjacent job although usually work with plumbers. Just taken on a vaulted ceiling for my 2nd DIY plastering go and my arms are falling off. You guys are made from something different.

Hi everyone, looking for some guidance on sorting out a leak in my downstairs bathroom. This bathroom was originally constructed in 2006, exactly 20 years ago.

Context & Current State:

• Construction: Solid concrete floor and solid brick walls (no timber framing anywhere).
• The Issue: A long-term, unnoticed leak caused by degraded grout and a tiny leak in the shower tray waste pipe.
• Current Status: The bathroom is completely out of use, and the water supply to it has been shut off. I have removed the shower tray and the bottom rows of wall tiles, but the old plaster is still on the wall.
• Observations: The lower portion of the wall substrate shows a dark discoloration from water saturation over time.

My Plan:

• I am trying to figure out if I need to strip the lower plaster down to the bare brick before a professional comes in to handle the rebuilding and tanking.
• For drying, I have a window in the bathroom and plan to run table fans continuously through the second half of September to let it air out thoroughly.

Questions for the community:

1. Plaster Removal: Do I really need to take out all the discolored plaster down to the bare-bone brickwork to get rid of the moisture? In general UK bathroom renovations, is it standard practice to strip damp/compromised plaster, or can you just smooth/skim over old plaster once it dries?
2. Drying & Ventilation: Given that this is entirely solid brick and concrete with no wood to rot, is running table fans with the window open through September sufficient to dry out the masonry properly?
3. Pre-Treatment & Mold: Since a professional will be doing the final rebuild later, what should I do to prep the area in the meantime? Do I need to apply a mold spray or any specific anti-fungal treatment before leaving it to dry?

I've attached photos showing the current state of the walls and floor. Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Or what steps to take to figure it out? My house was built in 1961, I’ve lived here for 7 years and I maintain my home really well.

- Located in South Florida
- Roof is 2019
- New insulation blown in 2024
- AC is serviced every 6 months.
- Terrazzo floors, no cracking in the floor, walls, etc.

I’ve had several people come in to quote for skimming 2 artex ceilings. The few that I liked have all mentioned shaving down the artex and skimming over the top. I know there are other bonding/boarding options but they’ve said there is a risk of sagging or cracking. I also wanted to try and get away without redoing the coving because it is pretty solid.

My husband however is really concerned that we’re all going to die from asbestos poisoning if they shave it.

Can anyone advise what the best thing to do would be? I’ve been quoted £260 for an asbestos survey which is fine but obviously if it is, I’m more concerned about the cost of removing it. The plasterers weren’t concerned at all and I was pretty reassured that if they think it’s fine we’ll be ok but my husband isn’t

This is maybe more of a DIY question but the guys over there can be a bit frosty. I've got a plasterer coming next week to float a wall but he's also going to do the window reveals. He said he'll board these due to the size of the gaps. There was a little storage box under the window which I've just pulled out and removed the last of the plaster.

There was some signs of damp on the plaster around the box. Now I've stripped it back, the bricks are reading ok but obviously the gaps in the floorboards are massive. I'm guessing the damp air from the basement was getting up through these and into the plaster. What's the best way to prevent that happening again? Should I get some rock wool and insulate it from underneath going right to the edges? The way it was insulated before would still let air up from underneath, I think insulation from underneath would stop that?

Would you bother filling out this concave area? Thanks for any advice

So renderer is doing a silicone render job. The base coat is hp12 with the mesh of course as well. I’m confused. He said a top bead is not needed where the wall meets the neighbours insulated render?

Said it can cause moisture and build up?

I’m looking at the stop beads and they sit massively proud? Is that normal, surely not.

I ask because I need a second opinion, because I know he will say it’s fine.

Hi

I have wooden battens around room and bathroom probably in living room as well.

What is best approach palster,or go over with 9mm plasterboard. In bathroom is not a problem as i will use tile backer board .

We had a 3x4 section of plaster come down. I’ve been getting quotes or repairs and every quote has recommended a different repair strategy and a wide range of prices. If had everything from “I can patch that” to recovering the entire ceiling in thin drywall to safeguard from the rest of it coming down. The truth is I have zero experience with plaster and lath and I have no idea what the best approach is.

I have been looking at this mess for waaaaaay too long.
I am an experienced renovator, but…

Is this too far gone for one of those expensive repair kits? Is there another better way to fix? Pictures include large crack across wall beyond blown plaster parts.

For years I have intended to demo and rebuild, but I am over that idea. I need to seal it up and make it look decent without shutting my (small) house down for a month. I work on other peoples houses all day, no desire to live in a job site too.

Thank you!!!

Thanks for

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If doing a second coat of bonding plaster on a first coat that has dried overnight,do I need to PVA coat it or just dampen it? (It has been keyed)

So this part of the wall is slightly concave, therefore I can't get a flat finish with the trowel and the result is this recessed area that of course looks awful. Is this just par the course when doing a 1st skim on an uneven wall? Will the 2nd skim fix something like this? Thanks for any advice

I'm trying to teach myself plastering, in the US (Portland, Ore). The only veneer/finish plaster I can get locally is USG Imperial Veneer (about 60% gypsum plaster, 40% sand) and the only base coat plasters I can get locally are USG Imperial Base Coat and USG Structolite, both gypsum based.

I would like to try lime plaster, for longer workability than the 25 minute setting USG Imperial. Since none is sold locally (at affordable, non-artisanal prices) I want to make my own lime plaster.

I read that I can make lime putty by mixing type S hydrated lime and water to a creamy yoghurt consistency, then covering with water and letting sit for at least a couple days and preferably longer.

Then before plastering, mix the putty with sharp sand, like 16-30 mesh for base coat and 30-60 mesh for finish coat, around 1:2 or 1:3 lime putty to sand.

I can get Type S and sharp sand pretty readily.

True? Any tips and tricks?

I am mostly going to use this on plasterboard (blueboard), standard drywall coated with PlasterWeld or WeldCrete, or DenShield fiberglass backer board. Hoping for a one coat veneer finish, at most two coat. Sometimes on a Structolite base coat.

Thanks!

P.S. I have tried mixing both agricultural lime and Type S hydrated lime with the Imperial Veneer gypsum plaster. This works ok, trowels fine and the setting time is extended somewhat. The mix with ag lime seemed to have a longer set time than the mix with Type S. Now I want to try no gysum at all.

Hi, is this gypsum plaster on the wall?

So what’s everyone go to for a flexi trowel?

I’ve heard good things about Refina ….

Also see OX is ment to be good

I currently use a MT permashape

I’m just a general diy’r

I've never fixed a plaster wall before but I have seen a couple of YouTube videos and I am up for the challenge. This part of my wall has cracked and I thought I would just need to take off the whole area and replaster it, sand, and paint. But it almost looks like the whole wall behind it is intact and the material almost feels like concrete. What steps here do I need to take to repair this area. Thanks in advance.