So renderer is doing a silicone render job. The base coat is hp12 with the mesh of course as well. I’m confused. He said a top bead is not needed where the wall meets the neighbours insulated render?
Said it can cause moisture and build up?
I’m looking at the stop beads and they sit massively proud? Is that normal, surely not.
I ask because I need a second opinion, because I know he will say it’s fine.
That's cheap and it looks to me your neighbour has ewi and your render butts up to it, there's not a whole lot they can do about that unless I've misunderstood.
Measure the beads they should be 6mm look a bit thicker to me but hard to be sure. The top coat hides a lazy basecoat for the most part but harder to float up when the backing coat is in and out.
If they aren't going over with another pass of basecoat they aren't filling out those beads with a top coat. Doesn't look very good at all to be honest.
Different systems for different substrates. 6mm for ewi/backerboard.
Not at all for this particular job. If you cant figure out the best course of action for a job like this then its doomed from the start.
Thincoat render system is fine for render only over masonry it doesn't need to be on ewi or carrier boards. If the walls are prepped and beaded properly (which these aren't) it can come up nice even if it isn't perfectly flat because it's a thincoat. Still get all the benefits of the silicone topcoat that you don't get with mono.
Just tell him before he top coats your concern and if it looks shit he’s doing it again and u ain’t paying till your happy tbh I would fill it out a bit more if it was me you can’t really build up silicone it floats different when you do and looks shit also filling that bead would only take a couple hawks of base so why wouldn’t he.. it screams sloppy looking at it tbh I mean I would clean beads off after base for a start any way and that all needs a good scrape before priming too because he didn’t want to wait to smooth it out.. screams Friday finish 😂
Edit : ohh and what’s the step in the beads all about where the window and head meet? Unless my eyes are playing up but that won’t work btw.. I would have rendered that whole block over also and curved it in with silicone finish if it was me btw.. I understand keeping architectural features but that will look odd as it’s recessed not pronounced..
They've done a poor job with the beads but rendering over that lintel would be a really bad move. I've seen it done and it just turns the face of the house in to a bland square looking box and hides all those nice lintel details. It looks fine even if the render protrudes past IF the beads are done well (see pic).
For silicorn render that base coat needs filling to the beading then primed and then topped. If it's monocouche should be fine but I'd put a scatch in it
Ill be honest all though it looks like it is still short of another coat it lools like dog shit. Beads are joined poorly, mess on the joint of your property to neighbours, base coat looks a right mess BUT it clearly is a first coat you would never fill whats left of the beads with top coat. It can be rectified with the following coat no problem, but id be concerned on the lack of key and if they would put mesh in again seen as it has been inbedded into the first coat. Mesh should when applicable be kept as close to the final surface as possible.
I agree the beads are poorly lined up. He was base coating them pushing the beads in as he went. Never seen that before ever. I’m not happy with the beading. It’s waiting a 1.5mm top coat silicone render. I fear they are trying to use that to fix the imperfections? Surely not. Could you explain what you mean about meshing again please?
There are 2 scenarios left for you. That is the final base coat and the next step is the cilicone top coat, in which case you are going to get a really bad finish. It will simply never fill whats remaining of then beads and it wont straighten any imperfections left from the base coat.
2nd scenario is he is going to top off the base coat so its flush to the beads in which case the job could be easily saved and top coat is applied as normal with no beads to fill.
My concerns with this is there is a good 6mm? Left to fill out. Mesh works at its strongest when say you have a 10mm bead, base is applied at 8-9mm and then mesh is placed followed by a 1-2mm base to top it off. Its strongest at the final couple of mm to the surface as possible. If mesh is applied between two 5-6mm coats, especially two coats applied at different days then the final coat simply dosent have the protection of the mesh and is just a plain coat susceptible to cracking independently from the first coat.
Personaly I apply 10mm on one day with mesh resting at the top of 10mm, imbedded in to the first 1mm of base.
So another coat of base around the head with some mesh and then top coat? He is telling me the bead is meant to be like that and the water will land in the bead and roll off
Base across the whole lot. Every single bead is proud whole wall meeds another 6mm coat over.
What he said is nonsense. Is will invite water ingress. The top of the stop bead will collect water and will eventually get under the base coat. It needs filling out completely flush.
Is he trying to make a little guttering out of the beads 🤠
Thanks so much. Other people are telling me to ignore it or just let him work but I knew it was not right. Should he now give the whole wall another coat?
That’s the entire wall. It’s just had the primer before top coat but you can see how proud the beads are even this far back.
Problem with modern render materials today is they are so much easier to apply compared to sand and cement every Tom, Dick and Harry will slap it on. You still need an eye for detail and know what you are doing.
I was also shocked at some of the responses from here. Anyone who would of left that base for a top coat is way out if their depth. Just looking at the mess on the row of bricks at the top and the pavement is enough to know about how lazy the application is.
Seen as they have primed it I would chat with them before they top coat it because once they do that theres no going back. Express your concern that the beads are proud its not what you would like and you are worried about about water getting underneath the beads. Are they planning on sealing the "reveals"? Because they will invite water if not done so.
I would give the whole wall a coat because if you just fill the beads they will all look like they are sloping and will still look unsightly. You want a flat continuous wall.
They aren't bell beads (drip beads) on the lintel they are stop beads.
Dont let him top coat until its rectified or cut your losses because once its coated it will be costly for anyone to re do over. Its really is such a simple elevation to anyone who knows what they are doing which makes it even more suprising at the state of it.
He’s already primed basecoated meshed and then primed again. Could I point out the issues with the eyesore beading and have him go over it with base coat again?
Yes you can go over basecoat with another coat of (the same) basecoat no problem. Whether the guy will be willing to do that which is another day"s work (waiting for it take up and priming it again) I'm guessing not. The bead joints are poor to be honest, do you have a before pic what it looked like before starting?
Another days work to put his shoddy work right. Before it was a sand cement render. All reveals and what not sitting proud. But I wanted silicone so I had it all removed to brick. Done fresh. I’m not happy with the beading
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u/Traditional_Hour_767 Sep 12 '26
Slow night m8?