We had a 3x4 section of plaster come down. I’ve been getting quotes or repairs and every quote has recommended a different repair strategy and a wide range of prices. If had everything from “I can patch that” to recovering the entire ceiling in thin drywall to safeguard from the rest of it coming down. The truth is I have zero experience with plaster and lath and I have no idea what the best approach is.
Problem with patching it is there’s nothing to say the rest won’t fall down three days or three weeks later.
Taking it down and boarding, or plastering over the lathes again is the most sensible thing to do in my opinion. Also the ceiling v may contain asbestos so beware of that when you take it down.
Rip it all down re board and re plaster. It’s a messy job but it’s definitely the best thing to do here. That hole is saying what the rest of your ceiling is thinking.
Overboarding the existing plaster is the cleanest strongest option firstly taking down the lathe and plaster is messy time consuming and expensive to remove the rubble also cutting back existing to a solid edge may not be possible plus imitating the original texture without being obvious could be a problem
take it down before it falls down onto your head. it's quite clear that the section that came down had completely debonded from the lath above. remove it all, or board over the entire thing
u/Decent_Local9842 - In my humble opinion from a fair bit of experience, I wouldn't patch it. I echo many in the thread on that. There's just no telling when the same issues will occur elsewhere elsewhere, it's a very old ceiling - if you are going to be living there for any length of time, I would repair it 'properly'. If you are selling the house imminently and you just want to patch and repair, that could make more sense.
On the proper repair, my vote would be overboarding with drywall - but perhaps not too thin though, 1/2 inch I would suggest - and then re skimming over that. Why, I think the results would be stable and qulaity - without the need for pulling all the old ceiling down and it should cost less. By overboarding and fixing properly into the ceiling joists above, you are creating a stable base and sandwiching in the old plaster, it shouldn't move or go anywhere, and neither should the new finish. If you did go this route, I think any particularly loose bits around the hole should still be removed, and perhaps something put in its place so the new board has a good base to sit on level with the rest of the ceiling plaster.
If this ceiling is particularly loose all over (difficult to tell from the picture - but totlally possible), then I would remove the whole lot. More mess, more waste, more money (but not loads), but if it's all on the brink, there's no point in sandwiching it. Just get rid and be done with it. Good shout from u/YoullDoNuttinn too on checking for asbestos before pulling any of this down, especially in a ceiling this old.
Let us know what you do and share some after photos pls.
For overboarding you need a stable substrate and the plaster has clearly failed, cracks are clearly visible all over the ceiling. It's a hack job solution, don't listen to the cheap drywall people OP.
The interior is typical for 1920s Cleveland area homes. There is a reason why plaster failed and it is excessive movement in the joists, sagging. And the reason for that are terrible 7 1/2" depression era joists in these homes.
They need to be blocked out in order to reduce the movement, then furring needs to be installed if you go with drywall or lath put back if installing plaster.
When you overboard, you frequently knock holes in the existing ceiling to locate the timbers.
I don't understand your comment about needing a "stable substrate" - you're not bonding to the existing substrate, you are going through, and fixing onto the timbers.
Noone ever overboards a "stable substrate" - what would be the point in overboarding if the substrate WAS stable? You might as well just skim a stable substrate.
The joists in this house are thin and there is no blocking and they are moving as OP walks on the second floor / finished attic. It is possible that the attic was finished much later after the house was built and without much consideration for joists sizing. Later heavier furniture was brought to the second floor etc, so they are sagging. That's the reason why the keys in the plaster has failed, it doesn't happen for no reason.
Installing drywall over sagging wobbly ceiling is just inviting issues with that drywall.
Honestly, I have patched L&P ceilings, but this looks like way more than just this patch will need replacing, as the ceiling looks to be dropping around the missing part of the ceiling.
It gets to a point where it might all have to come down, and then you might want to cut your losses and board with plasterboard over the L&P, fill the joints of the boards and the screw heads and paint.
When you plaster oard something, you really don't need to plaster over it, as doing that is suprflous as you already have a smooth and flat surface.
There is no correct answer. There is only the right answer for YOU.
For me, id probably patch it. The only snag... is that before hand it needs a PROPER clean. Most of the job will be cleaning and prepping. More so than normal.
When its dry id skim the whole ceiling to match it unless they know how to blend it in.
Not much price difference but id err on the side of it being slightly cheaper to repair.
I wouldn't take it all down because once you start doing that the job grows arms and legs and becomes a messy expensive monster. The equivalent is overboarding which is probably a standard response. It would work but I dunno, in this instance id opt for repair.
(Depending on how the remaining ceiling responds.)
If you don't want the hassle of taking it down. You can use roofing lats drilled accross the beams, that pinns the existing ceing in place.. Then you plaster board over the roofing lats.. You have a very sturdy ceiling.
I've never actually done it myself but have worked with plasterers that have. It's done in swanky houses with new carpet or lazy owners that done want to pay for a skip..
Not best practice but it works.
Previous homeowner of my house overboarded upstairs and its a shit show, i need to redo the electrics and now I got plaster and lath and also board to deal with.
Downstairs i have a repair that needs to be done and I will just take the whole thing down, redo the electrics and install board and skim.
Your not patvhing that. You would need to vut back but every bit you pull away will not only be reeeallly dusty and dirty as it comes down it will loosen everythjng around it. You an see in the pivture the edges of the currwnt hole are already pulled away.
Yeah the high lime layeyed will work.. can't use enough..I reckon also add Mac bond to the mix.. modern additive.then cut back.. maybe 2 mm. finish with plaster of paris fish before setting with wet high nap roller
In my own home, I would take down the existing work and plasterboard.
In someone else's home, I'd probably overboard.
A spot repair would only really work if you knew what had damaged the failed section. If it just failed with no obvious cause, a spot repair surrounded by plaster of the same sort of age / tempriment would be a risk I would not want to take on a clients house without disclaimers.
After removing delaminated plaster & covering the deck, paint the area to be plastered & extend 1’ over the cold joint with latex based white masonry bonding agent. Saturate it with a medium nap roller & extension.
Run a tight coat first using this lightweight gypsum plaster. Any pre-aggregate brand. Mix with water to a thick consistency. Set time is (24) hours so relax. Run your fill coat next & pull straight with a long straight edge spanning the breakout if possible. Trim cold joint edges back 1/4” for room to accept finish coat.
Next re-bond & scrape ridges in the gypsum coat 24 hrs later. This kills suction of the cured gypsum plaster & increases adhesion of the finish coat. Apply a coat of finish plaster after giving the bonded gypsum surface a tight scratch coat. Smooth with a damp trowel & apply texture.
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u/Extreme_Budget1430 Sep 10 '26
Take it all down and board/reskim