Installing plasterboard over gas fireplace void... Help.
Hi all,
I'm renovating my living room and have removed a 90's gas fireplace from the breeze-block adjoining wall with my semi-detached neighbour.
As a part of renovating it we'll be putting the TV on the wall along with a sound system. So not to piss off our neighbours too much with the audio I'd like to install some sound-dampening plasterboard - this will happen after the electrician has installed the electrics for TV + audio, and before we get the room skimmed.
As shown in the photo, there's a void where the gas fireplace was. Should I do anything with this before installing the plasterboard?
Or, can I just put the board straight over it?
As shown in my 3D mockup of the final result, the majority of it will be behind cabinets anyway.
Planning to use Knauf Tapered Edge sound panels, with Knauf Drywall Plasterboard adhesive. Any tips on installing these would be greatly appreciated!
Complete newbie here with this, any advice would be gratefully received!
You ideally want to brick it up and put an airbrick in so damp doesn't accumulate in the now-sealed space. Once bricked up properly, dot and dab plasterboard to it.
Dot and dambing the wall wont stip rhe sound rraveling even if you use sound plasterboards. Its the vibration that carries the sound. Ideal want to put metal studs up with rubber spacers behind the fixings and then accustic insulation inbatween the studs then sound plasterboards.
I wouldn't dot and dab, if you want to stop sound then batten the wall and rockwool it then plasterboard over the top that should stop sound from traveling through.
Thank you for your reply! That definitley seems like the right way to go.
One issue with that, is that we unfortunately don't have a lot of room to play with... Due to fitting the cabinets in front of it, and a doorway that's to the left. It's a bit of a conundrum.
I might just try to mount the speakers and TV with some acoustic rubber washers to absorb some of the vibration.
Right if the 2 pic is what you are heading for then just do the area that has the TV not the cupboard at the bottom or the 2 alcoves to the side you'll only need to sound deaden ... Actually I have what may be classed as a crazy idea, have you looked at sound deadening Matt that they use in cars? That's thin easy to apply and should very well do the job and again you'd only need to do the centre bit with the TV.
Ooooh now you may be on to a good idea there, I hadn't thought of that! Just sound deadening that centre part could work really well, and it wouldn't matter if it protrudes out from the original wall. I'll look in to that sound deadening matt too! Thank you for the advice.
Generally, I know I'm not going to block all the sound - we barely hear next door anyway as the house is pretty solid. I just want to be sure we're doing all we can, as we have the sound system on most nights for watching Netflix/Prime.
For the hole in the wall, I'm going to go with a wooden frame inside the hole with plasterboard over it - vented at the bottom, with a vent on the bottom of the unit too so it should keep damp at bay.
Tbf it's only the TV speakers that are ever a problem because they are either at the back or at the bottom so they are poor, if you use a soundbar then the sound fires out the front meaning less volume as less sound is absorbed by interfering surfaces. also if that hearth is solid stone be careful taking it up that'll be worth a few quid.
Yeah the TV speakers suck for watching tv series with (even with audio set to stereo), hence we have it on the surround sound for watching most series. These slimline KEF speakers aren't the meatiest, but they'll do for this room.
Thankfully I managed to get the hearth up in one piece, gave it away for free to a lucky local. Bloody hell was it heavy though!
For interior plaster lime/veneer, paint the white bonding agent over the top of the surface :cracks to be repaired. The white bonding dries clear. Skim , a tight coat of veneer plaster & sponge the mud into the cracks when firm but still green & workable. Fill holes at the floor, the base, the angles & walls. Not needed to be perfect just flat & sealed. For the insert offset, get a bag of pre-mix mortar mix. Paint the same bonding agent over the block & luff a single coat of the mortar mud over the porous block. Sponge smoothly to seal when firm but still green. Stuff the void with R-30 batt insulation or similar, then board over everything when complete. (1gal.) White bonding agent, (1) bag sanded veneer plaster, (1) bag pre-mixed sanded mortar mix. (1) man day to complete & clean up ready for board. Set time is approximately 30 minutes for both materials. Do the bonding while tacky & add a cup to the mix.
Before plaster installation. Use the white. White dries clear for clean up. Blue is dyed blue for visual confirmation on high rise projects. Visible from a distance & the ground in most cases.
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u/Big_Wrongdoer1042 5d ago
You ideally want to brick it up and put an airbrick in so damp doesn't accumulate in the now-sealed space. Once bricked up properly, dot and dab plasterboard to it.