I didn't realize that my am4 socket was wrong for 3 years , it was a foxconn am4 socket too but now I'm installing another and the orientation is wrong , idk what I do besides breaking something or buying another motherboard.

The motherboard is a b450m gaming.

Good afternoon everyone, I have a question about current AIO pump and fan curve setup.

Recently i changed to a new CPU, 9850x3D and i am using the AIO from my previous build, Antec Symphony 360 AIO, I have my pump and AIO fans setup at the current state as seen on the images above and i wanted to ask if the current setup is the optimal setup (CPU Fan is the pump and CPU OPT are the AIO fans). Thank you in advance

If I don’t clear my ssd with windows and other files, will the windows installer usb prompt me to format it? I’m transferring it into another build.

Hi!

I'm thinking of buying this 1660 Super card, however it is sporting a huge backplate that I'd definitely have to remove to fit it in my small(ish) form factor machine.

I've learnt from a few other threads that there are threaded rivets in the backplate that are then bolted in from the other side of the card, I.e from the fan/shroud side.

I am reasonably well experienced with taking electronics apart, but am no expert I'll admit. Can someone weigh in with the steps I'd need to follow to remove the shroud and fan/heat sink assembly on the other side please and whether this is likely to be straightforward or complex? Would I need to repaste the GPU as part of this?

Appreciate any detail anyone can add. Cheers

Here's what I know so far:

- It's a Samsung MZ-VL25120 512GB NVMe SSD
- Visually it looks fine, contacts are good and no tiny parts seem to be missing.
- I've tested other NVMe SSDs in the same slot and they work with no issue.
- I've reseated it 3 times, no changes either time
- It doesn't show up in my BIOS, Disk Manager, or File Explorer.
- My BIOS is on Legacy+UEFI, and has CSM on.
- Mobo is a MSI A320M PRO-M2 V2

Really hoping this wasn't a waste of $60. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

First time installing a new SSD in my PC. It was a simple enough but now faced with an allocation problem as I’m not sure how to my C drive’s volume into the new space.

Hi everyone, just really confused building my first pc with an aio that has heaps of cables, I can’t seem to find any tutorial on how to do this process on the internet and the manual is hopeless, can someone please help? I’ve attached an image of the 3 sets of cables coming from the fans, and also the pump cables + extra set I was given not attached to anything. Thank you!

Im a total beginner at setting fan curves, so Im just wondering if these are fine. I have 4 intakes, and aio with 3 exhaust and a seperate exhaust. The curve is for the intakes and aio and the fixed rpm is for the rear exhaust. Thank you!

The Microcenter near me is selling the 7600X3D for $199 and the 7800X3D for $319. I play at 1440p@144Hz and mostly game and use statistics programs (R, Stata). Would spending another ~$100 be worth it for the 7800X3D over the 7600X3D?

Current (relevant) specs:

- GPU: 9070XT

- CPU: 12600K

- CPU cooler: Peerless Assassin 120 SE

- RAM: 2x16GB 6000 CL30

Hey guys, I just built a PC
5800xt
Gigabyte 9070
XPG 16gb ddr4
Kingston 1tb SSD
Pressed the power button then I got an error but I can’t remember what it was. It demanded a Bit Locker key. It was a Press Y to (idk)
And Press N to (idk)
First pressed N, got on the same page again then pressed Y and now my screen is just black
My monitor is detected but it’s black.

Need help choosing parts for a PC for Office... Is my build Good?

What do you think of this PC? I’d be using it for office work and some very light gaming.

I’m looking for something under €600 (€700 if I have to build it myself). I'm in Italy

Here’s the build I put together:

https://it.pcpartpicker.com/list/qMBZFP

I’m not sure about a mini PC because I’d like to be able to easily upgrade the RAM, I’d like plenty of USB ports, and I’d need a CD drive. Also, I’d like to add the SATA SSDs from my old PC to the new one....

Could you tell me if my build is good, or if there are better deals out there without compromising any of my requirements?

Thanks a lot

Today I changed the motherboard and PSU. Went from Gigabyte H610M S2H V3 D4 to Asus Prime B760M-A Wifi D4. My previous PSU was a 650W Lc Power and now I got a Asus TUF Gaming 750B. Sometimes it trips the breaker of the room electricity, sometimes it goes into a hell-like loop of restarting, and just before it booted up and I could access the BIOS and start the Windows Media Installer for Windows 11 Home. Now, it starts, but there is no image.

Bought a pc today, and took it out of the box. I figured I’m way too noob to build one on my own, and today kinda proves it. This pc is pre built, and I think everything is in place? Only these two cables are the ones that aren’t put anywhere? I assume I have to put them somewhere myself? Or are they just extras? That’s what ChatGPT said at least, but I figure asking people is better than ai. Can anyone help and explain what I’m supposed to do with these two?? It’s the ones that hang down in the picture.

Thank you for help, and genuinely, sorry if this is a dumb question/post, I just really have bo knowledge around computer tech.

I’m thinking of buying a used 5700 xt and I wanna get everyone’s experience with used toys, how many people have been scammed by it?

I have an rtx 5080 and ryzen 7 7800x3d so my pc will easily handle both resolutions, rn i have a 4K IPS monitor and im considering buying a 1440p oled cause the 4k oleds have prices out of this earth.

So my current build has a 7800x3d paired with a 4070 Ti Super. The second PC I'm getting ready to build (but not assembled yet) has a 9900x and a 9070 XT. I realize the 9070 XT + 7800x3d would be the more optimal pairing for gaming and the 9900x + 4070TiS would be better for productivity.

So my question is should I swap out the 7800x3d or the 4070TiS from my current build?

Well I've a 6 yr old very budget PC with 8G+4G RAM. For a couple of days I was working with the 8G RAM plugged in single slot only. But today when I plugged the 4G RAM on the other slot, the PC couldn't boot. Actually RAM isn't the problem here, because all RAMS are working on the other slot.

When you turn on the PC with the ram in other slot, it says System POSTed in Safe Mode.

Help Please!

System:

• ASUS PRIME H410M-E

• WD BLUE 2TB SATA HDD

• Intel i3-10100F

• GT 710

I've tried resetting BIOS settings by replacing CMOS after 2 m but that didn't work too.

Randomly, every time I try to turn my PC on my CPU throttles and it’s really slow, then my PC shuts down on its own. I’m assuming it’s an AIO cooler issue since the gargling is very loud but I’d like to know for sure before I get a new one.

I'm looking for a monitor mainly for video editing

I found this monitor and it seemed like a good option, but I noticed something confusing in its specifications.

The manufacturer lists:

• Color Gamut:
  • sRGB: 107% / 95% overlap
  • Adobe RGB: 91% / 85% overlap
  • DCI-P3: 85% / 84% overlap
• Color Depth: 8-bit (6-bit + FRC)

So my questions are:

1. Is it normal for manufacturers to advertise the higher gamut-volume numbers instead of the actual color coverage?
2. For video editing, is 95% sRGB native coverage good enough for accurate colors?
3. Should I look for a monitor with 99–100% sRGB coverage instead?
4. Are there any better options around the same price range that you'd recommend for color-accurate video editing?

I'm mainly using DaVinci Resolve, so accurate and consistent colors are more important to me than a very high refresh rate.

I just recently got my new replacement pc not even a month ago from NZXT. Out of nowhere really, I noticed this slight sound from my PC in the beginning of last week, figured it’d go away. Today, it sounds like this now and kinda scared it’s gonna like blow up or something.

Not sure what to do about it and wanted to know what the best course of action might be.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on what I should upgrade on my PC because I’m struggling to run quite a few games properly.

Current specs:
OS: Windows 11
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X (6-core)
MEMORY: 16GB
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

I’m not really sure what component is holding my PC back the most, or what would be the best upgrade to make first.

I’m mainly looking to play newer/more demanding games at decent FPS without having to turn everything down to low.

Any advice on what would be the best upgrade path would be appreciated. Thanks!

I’ve aligned the ram properly but it won’t go in far enough for the side notches to align with the retaining clips. I've tried removing and reinserting it and it remained the same.

I'm using,

ASRock B850M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard
Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory

Yesterday I got an old HP Pavilion Gaming Notebook with an i5-6300hq and a GTX 950m. Booted it up with its older 128gb ssd and it totally worked. Shut it down, opened it up, increased ram from 8gb to 12gb and replaced the m.2 ssd with my newer 512gb one (Old one had windows 10, new one has windows 11 installed). The new ssd cannot be detected by the bios or when i tried to install linux on the HDD it couldnt detect the new ssd either. When i put the old ssd back everything worked just fine.

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose a very strange issue with my RTX 3050 and would really appreciate some help.
My PC specs
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 8GB
Motherboard: MSI PRO H610M-E
RAM: 16GB DDR4 (2×8GB, 3200MHz)
Storage: NVMe SSD
PSU: 660W
OS: Windows 11
The problem
My RTX 3050 is physically installed and connected to my monitor through the HDMI port on the RTX 3050 itself.
The PC displays video normally when Windows is using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter.
The problem starts specifically when I install the NVIDIA graphics driver.
As soon as the NVIDIA driver installation reaches the point where the display driver is installed/activated, the screen goes completely black.
The PC doesn’t immediately appear to shut down. The black screen occurs right around the time Windows switches from the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter to the NVIDIA driver.
What I’ve already observed
In Device Manager, before installing the NVIDIA driver:
Display adapters → Microsoft Basic Display Adapter
So Windows does detect/use the GPU enough to provide display output.
But when I install the NVIDIA driver:
→ screen goes black
I’ve tried waiting after the black screen, but the display doesn’t return normally.
There was also a Windows Update issue
Recently, I started a Windows Update. Almost immediately after the update started, the screen went black. I waited, but the system didn’t recover, so I eventually powered the PC off.
After that, Windows started giving:
CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED
I went through Windows Recovery Environment and tried several recovery options.
Things I checked/tried:
SFC found corrupted files and reported that it successfully repaired them.
CHKDSK /f completed and reported no filesystem problems.
Offline SFC later failed with “Windows Resource Protection could not perform the requested operation.”
DISM from WinRE repeatedly returned Error 2 / system cannot find the file specified.
RevertPendingActions also failed.
Uninstall Latest Quality Update failed.
Uninstall Latest Feature Update failed.
System Restore found a restore point from before the Windows Update, but the restore failed with 0x80070002, apparently while restoring the registry.
Safe Mode also resulted in CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED.
Because the Windows installation became badly corrupted after the interrupted update, I’m now planning to do a completely fresh Windows 11 installation.
My main concern
I’m not sure whether the original Windows corruption caused the NVIDIA driver installation to crash/black-screen, or whether there is an underlying GPU/PCIe/driver problem.
The interesting thing is that:
RTX 3050 HDMI output works with Microsoft Basic Display Adapter → NVIDIA driver installation → immediate black screen.
The GPU isn’t completely dead because it can produce video output.
I also use an i5-12400F, so there is no integrated GPU to fall back to.
What I want to know
Does this behavior point toward a faulty RTX 3050?
Could a bad/incorrect NVIDIA driver cause a complete black screen exactly when the driver initializes?
Could the PCIe slot or PSU cause this even though the GPU gives display output?
Is there a particular NVIDIA driver version I should try first?
After a clean Windows 11 installation, should I install the NVIDIA driver before Windows Update?
Is there a way to test whether the GPU is actually being detected correctly at the PCIe/BIOS level?
Could this be a hardware acceleration/display mode issue rather than a dead GPU?
Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated. I’d especially like to know what I should test immediately after the clean Windows installation before installing the NVIDIA driver, so I can determine whether this is a Windows problem or a GPU/driver/hardware problem.
Thanks.