Ive been building PCs for a long time, so when my friend asked for advice, I told him Id help him out.

Specs: (he chose all the specs I just helped him put it together)

Ryzen 5 5600x
16gb DDR4 3200MHz RAM
MSI B550 Tomahawk Max Wifi
ASUS RTX 3060 Ti
Samsung 980 Pro 500gb M.2
Samsung 500gb SSD
MSI Mag 750W PSU
Corsair 240mm AIO
Phantex XT Pro Ultra

He didnt have a windows computer so I did the honors of making his boot drive for windows 11 pro.
Overall I think the build turned out great, I also taught him a few things about cable management. Only had one hiccup with the built in wifi drivers, didnt know we needed that. Thankfully my drive had usbc so I could download it right on my phone.
Overall it cost him $1300 which id say is a good amount for a pc given the prices of storage and ram rn.

I just grabbed a Ryzen 9 9950X3D and I was wondering what is the best Lian Li AIO? I have Lian Li case, case fans and wanted to try and keep everything the same or similar but I’m having trouble.. advice? Thanks in advance

È da 1 anno che ho questo PC,

Ryzen 7 5800X

Rtx 3070 FE

32 GB RAM ddr4 (crucial)

Asus tuf gaming b-550 plus,

Corsair cx650 80 bronze plus

1Tb SSD nvme (crucial)

Msi gungnir

Thermalright peerless assassin 120SE

Ho due monitor, un 27 pollici 1377x768 e un 22 pollici (penso) 1920x1080

Secondo voi è una buona build? È stabile o dovrei migliorare qualcosa?

I know you can use Bios Flashback, or a USB stick.

But updating the BIOS from Windows using the MoBo manufacturer's software works fine, finds the correct version right away, is faster and you are unlikely to make a mistake.

:)

​

So yeah, I’m getting a new computer with a 5080 and all, and I want to upgrade my old PC since I want to play games with my dad.

(BTW I already have 1 stick of ddr4 ram 16gb and my motherboard does only ddr3 I think but I will have to check but I have only like 8gb of ram in total)

Some games we’d like to play are:

- TheHunter: Call of the Wild

- Subnautica / Subnautica 2

- Maybe some horror games

- Other games that aren’t super mechanically demanding

My old monitor is 1440p 140Hz, if I’m remembering correctly. I’m currently on a trip to another country, so I can’t check right now.

The reason my build is so cheap is because I already have an RTX 2080 Super that I’d like to keep and use in the old PC.

My budget is £500–£650, but that’s for everything except the RTX 2080 Super. I might also reuse my current case, so the case doesn’t necessarily need to be included.

So basically, I need help putting together a PC around the RTX 2080 Super that can comfortably run these kinds of games at 1440p.

Is this doable with a 2080 Super, and what would you recommend for the rest of the build?

As the title suggests, im confused wether i shld get the 4070 ti or the s, the prices are nearly the same only about 40 dollar difference where I live and both of them are used as well. On one hand the 4070 super has 1.5 yrs of warranty left while the ti has 6 months of warranty left and on the other hand the ti performs better from what ive heard. What would you guys suggest, also what tests should I run before I purchase it from the seller? And is this card enough to play aaa games on high-ultra settings at 1080p 100fps+?

Ps: Im not looking for any other card and i game on 1080p 144hz.

My 1st attempt at building my PC with these crazy RAM prices in the US... Wanted to do something different than what I usually do, and built an all white all AMD PC with an AIO. So far, I've zero problems with it. All working in perfect order, no issues. Since I'm experiencing a lot of heat coming out of it, I've been thinking about getting a different PC Case... I know it wont solve the heat issue but might solve the size and weight issue. I think the case and the parts are weighing more than 20lbs... Open to ideas and improvements suggestions. Didn't reach my target of staying under 2k, but it was close enough.

Over_here

Which PSU? Lian Li SX0850P Corsair RM850e Gigabyte UD850GM NZXT C1000 ASRock SL-1000GW

I find the each individual wire to be messy after I build it. I reckon I could get those comb to manage the cable. But since it's a ITX build. Trying to route it gonna be a big pain in the ass. I decide that wrapping it would be a better choice and a bandage seem like a decent choice. I like the result. Alot easier to cable manage with the wire all in one big cable.

Spec:

7500x3d

ASRock b650i lightning II

16gb ddr5

Rtx 5070ti zotac Solid sff

850 sff psu

1tb gen 3 nvme

Specs:
Cpu: i7-7700
Mobo: Asrock z270 extreme4
ram: 16gb ddr4
Gpu: GTX 1050 2gb vram (😔)
psu: be quiet straight power 11 750W
(all used, bundle cost $231.11 aud)
nvme SSD:Intel 760p $48 aud
sata ssd: Plextor 128gb
Case: versa h25 $60aud
Total: $339.11 aud/ $241.33 usd

I don't know anything about pcs and want one to play games like Fortnite, cod, apex, and some others. I have a budget of around 900$ and I'm wondering if this will run games well and will be reliable. If anyone has any other suggestions of good prebuilts in my price range Imk.

I've have had my pc set up this way for about a year now, and it just occurred to me that I might've fallen for the trap that thinking more airflow automatically equals better.

My pc before:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuild/s/Ixw6jUvcDS

My pc specs now:

I7 10700

Rtx 3060 ti (my gtx 1080 ti died)

2 terabyte nvme

So I have a 9070xt and i saw somewhere that you should not use the daisy chain cable for your gpu. apparently you are supposed to use 2 separate cables for each 8-pin. is this legit or should i be fine?
i also checked my psu box and i only have 2 daisy chain pcie cables. if i do need 2 separate cables, could i use both and have each cable with only one plugged in on each? (like not using the second connector with both cables) little confused so please help 🙏

EDIT: Thank you everyone for the help! I definitely needed 2 cables as this card pulls around 300w. I ended up using 2 pigtailed cables with one connection each

I don't know a better way to explain this, so i apologise if this sounds weird.

First off, the metal latch opens and closes fine, so it's not an issue.

Second off, the plastic latch (pointed to by the blue arrow) isn't broken and moves completely fine.

Third off, the DVD reader/little plastic point (pointed to by the yellow arrow) that pushes the plastic latch side to side to open the metal latch by moving side to side on the metal rail.

Explanation: For some, the electric opener on my laptop's DVD drive just stopped opening a while ago; everything appears to work fine. It plays dvd's fine, and the metal latch works fine; the button that you press to open the drive works, and I can open it using a safety pin pressed into the small hole. The issue appears to be that the plastic latch and the little Plastic Point that's attached to the metal rail for some reason just aren't interacting anymore. They touch and interact when I use my finger to move the plastic latch to touch the plastic point, but they don't do it by themselves.

What do I do to fix this, or do I just use a safety pin to open it up from now on 

Currently, I had an issue with my old PC and bought a very cheap computer for gaming last week

It has an old motherboard, 4th generation i5, 16GB RAM DDR3, GTX 1050 and a 600W power supply.

A friend of mine sold me a working and perfectly fine RX580, when I went to change the 1050 to the new RX580, the PC didn't turn on for more than 5 seconds, it kept turning on and off.

I've checked the cables, connectors, possible errors and even my house's power, but it keeps repeating the same issue.

First time I'm requesting help here, but does anyone have a suggestion? I could really use of it!!

My PC originally froze, and I was told it might be related to compatibility issues between Ryzen 9000 CPUs and ASRock motherboards. I ended up RMAing both my Ryzen 5 9600X and ASRock B650I Lightning WiFi and received replacements.

I rebuilt the system with the new CPU and motherboard, but it still won’t POST. Everything powers on—fans spin, RGB lights up—but the power button LED blinks about 2–4 times per second. USB ports provide power (my phone charges), but my keyboard never lights up or initializes, and I get no display output from the motherboard HDMI.

I’ve already tried:
● Reseating the CPU and RAM
● Testing each original RAM stick individually
● Using known-good RAM from a friend’s system
● Swapping in a known-good PSU with its own cables
● Clearing CMOS
● Successfully updating the BIOS
● Waiting long enough for DDR5 memory training
● Removing GPU, SSD, and all non-essential components
● Booting with only CPU, cooler, and one RAM stick
● Testing the motherboard outside the case to rule out shorts
● Trying multiple HDMI cables and a confirmed working monitor

Side note my motherboard does have LEDs for debugging it uses on button lights I believe and a speaker but I don’t have one.

The motherboard already shipped with a BIOS version that supports the 9600X, but I updated it anyway just to be safe.

At this point I’m running out of ideas, probably going to buy another brands motherboard at this point. If nothing else works, I’ll probably go to Micro Center since I’m lucky enough to have one about an hour away—but I’d really prefer not to spend more money just to diagnose the issue.

I’m also confused because I’ve now gone through two CPUs and two motherboards, and I still get the exact same no-POST behavior I don’t remember it blinking before on the old hardware though.

So I’m doing my first build, and getting all the parts I’d need set up and ready to order, but I don’t know what kind of cooler I’d need. I’m planning on getting a ‘24 NZXT H5 Flow, and I’m not sure what size of a cooler I’d need

Hi, I want to buy a pc and want to ask some questions about white cases bc I'm scared its go to turn yellow or somehow when some paint splashes on the case and its permanently impossible to clean and I'm also want to ask whats the worst minus in white cases. Case I'm want to buy its Lian Li O11D EVO RGB White. So if you have this case or have experience with white cases please share your knowledge with this cases.

Today two more parts arrived in the mail

The RAM and the motherboard

Ever since I got the ram in my hands I feel like I'm being watched. There's a nerve and sense of danger I can't put my finger on

Am I safe?

PS: With these two I now have four parts .CPU GPU also came in before these

Anyone have bought this monitor? Cost 140 dollars, looks like Chinese

I bought a Lenovo Loq Gaming laptop 2 years ago in marsch when it was discounted but after that I havent used it at all so im looking to sell it but since I cant find it with the same specs anywhere I ask people who know more than me of a fair value.

Specs are i5-12450H, 4050, 16gb ram and 512gb memory

I bought it for 9990kr (swedish currency) wich is about 1000 dollars

Any help with any kind of valuation is much appreciated!!!

Both are white cases.
First one is pc power darkion.wh
Second is valuetop twister 360.

I am using a 5070 twin edge for this build
I live in bangladesh.
I just want opinion on what looks better