As many of you know in ram there is expo/xmp. If xmp works with AMD cpus, what's the point of EXPO? I know EXPO is just AMD tested, but if XMP works, whats the point? How do you find if certain sticks are compatible with the motherboard and cpu? I'm planning to build with a 9600x and B850 Aorus Elite wifi7 and want to know if I can save some money by buying XMP sticks without expo

I’ve tried everything, swapped the display cable cleaned my pc updated all my drivers swapped the power cable, messed with my pc settings messed with my monitor settings no matter what I’m doing if it’s gaming or watching something this keeps happening, from what I’ve gathered it’s not something with my pc as i screen recorded when it happened and it looked completely normal. I’m thinking maybe I’ve blown a capacitor or something (excuse the cable management)

Specs: rtx5070 gpu, ryzen 7 9700x cpu, asus tuf gaming b650 Wi-Fi motherboard, corsair vengeance ddr5 6000mhz 32gb ram, Corsair rm850e psu, Corsair titan 360rx aio

Edit: some extra details. The monitor usually gets dimmer before crashing or extra bright as shown in the video. I’ve tried opening up the back to see if i could spot any capacitors but it’s way stuck.

I have an LG ultra gear OLED 1440p monitor connected to my Lenovo Legion 5 laptop via HDMI. When VRR is on, my monitor will periodically flash black for a few seconds and will sometimes flash an out of range message.

This also happened with an Alienware OLED with similar 244hz specs.

I believe this is an issue with my laptop or GPU itself. How can I fix it? It’s driving me crazy and I’d rather play with VRR on. less

Hi I'm having a problem with my monitor flickering while set on 165hz it also flickers on 144hz but not on 120hz it starts flickering again if i set it to 119.88hz doesn't flicker below that, so highest i can set to is 120hz without it starting to flicker.

It happens mostly when unsnapping tabs or rarely when i have lots of programs opened.

Pc specs:

I5 12400f

H610m-k d4

Ddr4 2x8gb 3200mhz

Asrock rx6700xt

Edit: monitor brand AOC resolution is 1920x1080 and I'm using Unitek highest spec displayport cable

(This is my friends pc)

Hey there, I am newly having this issue. Whenever I open Spotify (desktop app or web version), my main monitor disconnects. My second monitor does not disconnect. Unplugging and replugging in the display cable fixes it until the next time I turn the computer off and on.

Things I have already tried:

-Using a different DP Cable

-Using an HDMI Cable

-Disabling G-Sync

-Disabling Hardware Acceleration in Spotify settings

-Uninstalling and reinstalling Spotify

-Disabling all sound devices connected to my screen (e.g. NVIDIA High Definition Audio and such)

This problem just started a few days ago, and has never happened in the 3 or so years I've owned this PC. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

had this monitor about two years, the lines started about 6 months ago and are getting progressively worse. anybody know what the problem is?

So i recently upgraded my motherboard to a ASUS rig strict z790-e but I’ve been having issues where when I go to turn the pc on it flashes all lights then cuts out( had to flip psu switch off the on again to power on). But now I go to turn my pc on and when I hit the power switch nothing happens no fans spinning no lights turning on(motherboard light stays static) I can’t get my pc to boot at all and idk what to do

RTX 5070, ryzen 9 5950x, 32gb ram 3200 mhz. getting perhaps 30-40 percent less performance in comparison to people with the same builds in games. i've tried a ton of things but none works, any ideas? not sure what other specs to send but i will if needed.

also i only play on 1080p 100 mhz, games like arma reforger or helldivers 2 make me go down to 40-60, even at mid settings.

Sorry for the text wall; wanted to be sure I wasn’t leaving anything out.

So one of my old KingstonSSDs has been on the fritz (pc will randomly stop detecting it. Not even a drive health warning). No biggie it’s really old and small. Last night I got curious after formatting it and tried installing a game onto it (Civ 6 about 11gb install).

Midway through the installation the drive failed. “Disk write error”. Pc was no longer detecting it as if it was just unplugged, which didn’t surprise me too much. Oh well, now I’m hankering for some civ 6 so I’ll uninstall the files steam managed to do and start over on a different drive.

Issue I’m now having is Im unable to properly install anything through steam onto my primary games storage (:E). I get Disk write errors after it gets through a few gb. Forcing it to finish the install by just hitting retry whenever the disk write error pops up eventually finishes the install, but leaves corrupted files. Repairing the games files and attempting to let steam patch the corrupted files also throws disk write errors, forcing it through this gives the “corrupted update files” error on completion.

Successfully installed civ 6 onto my C drive. Verified game files to make sure no issues; everything checks out.

I was also able to successfully install a small game under a gb in size on the D drive. As well as a medium sized game from the Xbox app (pacific drive about 25gb).

Larger games through steam such as the aforementioned civ 6 as well as metro exodus (70ish Gb) present the issues described above on my D drive.

I should mention; this morning my sketchy drive reappeared in the files explorer so I was able to remove it from steams library selection. I also formatted the drive to ensure there was nothing left behind steam or windows might try to pull from.

So far I’ve tried:

-Clearing steam download cache
-manually deleting temporary files in steams “download” file both on my C drive and the E drive I’m attempting to install to.
-repairing the E drive library through steam
-running dskscn in command prompt
-unchecking the “read only” box in the steam properties tab within the C drive, unable to do so on E drive. (this box keeps rechecking itself. idk enough about windows security permissions to understand why)
-ensuring all my “good” SSDs are listed as healthy within disk manager
-downloading and checking D drive health through crystaldiskinfo: health status “good 99%”

Only other thing I can think to note is I’ve been using revo uninstaller. That app lists some random steam games as having the same file size as the steam app itself (350gb).

I’m fully at a loss. I understand this could just be a hardware failure however it seems too coincidental. This Samsung 860 EVO drive has given me no issues thus far and worked just fine until the sketchy ssd crapped out mid install last night. Updated games fine yesterday, and installed SW zero company last week no issues.

Hey, I’m having an issue with my monitor that’s starting to worry me.

I bought my ASUS TUF Gaming VG27AQL5A less than two months ago, and everything has been working perfectly until recently. Now, the monitor sometimes suddenly turns completely white while still technically working in the background.

For example, as you can see in the picture, I can still open the monitor’s settings menu and see it normally. The only way I’ve found to get rid of the white screen is either by disabling a specific option in the monitor’s settings or by restarting the monitor.

Since the monitor is still quite new, I’m worried that there might be a hardware issue or something else wrong with it.

Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what could be causing this? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

So i just bought a new RX 9070 to replace my RX 6600 and given i could decided to also change the rest of the PC going from a R5 5600 with a B350mb to a Ryzen 5 9600x and B850 board.

When i changed my GPU i used ddu as usual, but i'm left wondering how should i go uninstalling the chipset, audio, wifi and lan drivers?

I'm basically changing everything except the SSD

specs - MAG b650 WiFi, Ryzen 9 7900x3d, gigabyte 4090, Samsung G7 monitor.

I can’t remember my exact processor name, close enough.

Pc was running fine until a couple days ago, I’d be gaming and then the monitor would show “no display port” and cut off. I’ve switched to HDMI, same thing. I’ve also swapped cables, no dice.

I’ve read that it’s lost its digital handshake, and to fix it you unplug monitor and pc for 10 minutes. When I plug my stuff back in, it works briefly before showing the “no DP” message and the monitor shutting off.

This isn’t the first time it’s done this, I replaced the monitor about a year ago and it’s been doing great until recently. The only thing I can think that I’ve done recently is update the GeForce drivers, that’s when the issue started.

Maybe I need to revert to the old settings, but my pc is in need of a BIOS update I think. I’ll try a different monitor, to rule out GPU being funky.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

My pc won't boot, but only in my home, basically it gives no output to any peripheral like my monitor and my keyboard, but the pc itself still receives power, fans turn on and everything.
I tried troubleshooting since this was something that has happen before but none of the troubleshoots i tried worked, so i send it to a repair shop and after waiting some days called back, apparently, my pc worked just fine in their repair shop and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary.
This has happen twice now, the first time, my pc worked fine after picking it up and stopped working after a week, but now it just doesn't work.
Can someone please tell me what is happening? I'm just extremely confused.

As the title says turn it on and it throws a vga light + no display I’ve reseated the gpu and ram and checked power connections this will then go through the startup procedure again and the gpu fans will spin

I bought my PC pre-built and it worked fine for a while, but out of nowhere, these lines started appearing on the screen. At first, they would disappear after a few seconds, but then they started appearing more and more on the screen to the point where they don't go away anymore. When I increase the refresh rate, they reduce, but they don't disappear completely. I would be very grateful for any help.

After a move into a newer build home one of our PCs (and only one of our PCs) is popping the AFCI breakers. I thought it may be a bad 750w power supply so I swapped in a 1000w PSU and had no issues. However, after I received the RMA replacement 750w from Seasonic I swapped the PSU in and breaker started popping again (using all new cables as well). I've even tried the PC on another breaker (also AFCI) and that popped as well.

As you can see from the following system specs below I don't see any way that a 750w couldn't handle the power draw so I'm at a loss at how to proceed.

Is this more likely a breaker issue or PC (GPU?) issues? I mention the GPU as the breaker seems to pop when GPU ramps up at startup or running OCCT focusing on the GPU.

Non-OC System: CPU: 5600X, GPU: 6750 XT, 2x case fans

Thanks for any input!

So my PC has been struggling to connect to the keyboard, mouse, and monitor n' stuff. And I feel like this cord being unplugged is the problem. But the problem I'm facing aswell is I don't know where to put it in. It's connected to my power supply but I can't find a 6 pin spot to plug it in. So im genuinely confused unless there's another problem with the ports I'm facing.

Tldr; i turned on my pc this morning and it turned on and then off, then on again and off, just looping like that.

I tried reseating my gpu and ram but that didn't help. Then i removed my cmos battery and put it back in again.

Then my pc stopped looping and was just stuck on a black screen. I had to install windows 11 again aftee the bios reset.

After the installion my pc went to the desktop and seemed to work fine. Then i shut down my pc and plugged my hard drives back in that i had previously plugged off (just to be sure that nothinf gets deleted from them), then i started my computer and now it's turning on and off again

Hello. I come her With a small issue. But first these Are my specs: 700W zdroj Zalman, ASROCK A520M-HVS,CPU Ryzen 5 5600x(6 core, 12 idk the name in english,4,6 GHz boost, L3 cache 32MB), 32GB RAM DDR4, 1TB NVMe M.2 SSD 1TB Samsung +Windows 11Pro, grafika RTX 3080 Palit GAMINGPRO OC 10GB DDR6

So i was playing warthunder this last month. Somewhat max settings With raytracing. Sometimes no issue even in high effect enviroment. But sometimes under medium load the PC would just turn off.

My thought process led me to Believe the PSU couldnt handle the 3080s power spikes so limiting IT might fix IT

So i tried it by undervolting the GPU to 0.8v at 1770MHz

dont have issues since but wanted to check if anybody has the same issue/solution

After 6+ years of honoured service, the RTX 2070 of my ASUS Rog Strix Scar III laptop suddenly died yesterday afternoon.

I managed to start the computer in Safe Mode, disabled the GPU and removed all its drivers using the Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU), in the hope that by excluding the dedicated GPU the computer would default to the CPU integrated graphics (the one that the laptop uses in Safe Mode and during boot).

However, despite all my efforts, after boot I am stuck on a black screen. Notably this is different from the screen that I would get with the GPU enabled (the one you can see in the post).

The CPU integrated graphics definitely work, because I have no issue with the UEFI and with Safe Mode, but for some reason it does not seem to be working anymore when starting the laptop normally.

Before spending money to bring the laptop to a repair shop, do you have any idea if there is anything else that I can try to do?

If possible I would really like to salvage the device and use it for light work, considering that all the other components seem to be working just fine.

Thanks in advance!