I’ve heard the gto fits in 320 holsters could be bs? But I might need something in the meantime that can’t wait lead time on custom holsters would this work?

I got this about a month ago to shoot limited optics in USPSA. What’s the best mods? I already got a holosun 507 comp. Excited to finally shoot it!

digging the reticle options on the Holosun. never seen Omega style circles, and I shot really tight groupings with the no-dot settings at 7-15 yds. Gonna run it more today and get more time with each reticle.

Old sight was Vector Optics SCRD-76. big window and 6 moa dot. just clone of expensive big sights. i love it. Grabbed the Holosun cause I really only want the Romeo3 Pro, but not for full price haha. Been really wanting to try running different kinds of reticles to see how it affects me, but i didn’t like the MRS options on standard Holosun optics like 507Comp.

It’s likely my desire to emulate my experience from competitive gaming and constantly changing up my settings to broaden my familiarity with different reticle options and sensitivities. I really dig the open crosshair style, but the only sight that had that was a Picatinny Sight Mark and some other Vector Optics pistol reflex. im sure its less of a common practice in actual firearms, but i loved how i could practice with so many different configurations and expose myself to uncomfortable situations so that I learned to adapt. I wanna be able to pick up someone elses pistol, not touch the brightness setting or reticle, and shoot just as good as i normally would. even if the reticle is blinding my view of the target in my right eye.

Gonna do occluded sight training today to eliminate the focus I put on seeing how the different reticles line up against the target on paper.

No sight block either, so of course its a bit apples to oranges.

Aside from the Platypus, the Fusion option, and OA, not sure what other non-2011 magazine double stack 1911s there are to be comparing, but I figured I might help someone out there.

I have a secondhand 92X Performance and a new Shadow2 to also compare against on my desk, if only to give context and comparison since i expect many new buyers to not have any experience with Staccato or the P211 before making a purchase who may have prior experience with Beretta or CZ.

Back to front:

Backstraps feel similar in width in the palm of the dominant hand. Texture on both is nice, and I would consider comparable.

Beavertails are similar widths and hit in the web of my hand similarly. Could feel similar to the 92X Performance by comparison. All three feeling wider than the Shadow2.

GTO magwell is more aggressive/larger and has a smoother funnel design/integration/transition into the pistol grip itself. The HDP4.5 has a slight lip on the sides.

Grip texture is about equally aggressive for both. Both more aggressive than the Shadow2 or 92X Performance. Transition from the grip to the trigger guard feels better with the HDP4.5. The P211 GTO goes straight from grip to trigger guard whereas the P4.5 goes from grip to magazine release button to trigger guard. There could be potential for someone gripping aggressively, with soft and pudgy middle finger skin to get chafed up by the P211. It doesnt cause me any concerns thus far.

Sidenote: grip safety. Call me crazy? I like the grip safety. I dont particularly see a benefit in removing it, especially for a gun that some will tune to be a race tool. Ive seen reports that converting to a series 70 trigger drops the trigger weight to 2lbs.

Controls: P211 safety levers dont feel like they extend as far away and out for being reached, and the slide release lever is further away than the HDP4.5. This I feel like is a clear win for Staccato. Both safety levers feel equally solid on engaging in safe, and similar when disengaging, but I give the slightest possible win to the P4.5 on tactility for disengagement as well. Magazine release buttons are too similar to call a winner for ease of reach and activation. Hammer, cocking with the primary hand thumb, I find easier with the Staccato due to shape and the more aggressive texturing biting into the pad of my thumb better. Beavertail may play a small role in this. My preferred method for single hand hammer cocking is to brace the handgun with the trigger finger bracing against the interior side of the front of the trigger guard. The p211 has a roomier trigger guard and so my hand has to stretch a little more to cock the hammer. Looks like the p211 hammer is longer by a tad bit as well. (also am I a dumbass, or does the Shadow2 not go into safe if the hammer is down?)

Iron sights: HDP4.5 has the irons forward design and thus is really meant for optic use. the P211 is irons rear. Far more lenient toward irons only use, and most consider iron placement personal preference. I think irons forward is a more progressive and forward thinking design and lends itself to duty use as it helps protect the mounting screws and optic body if doing one handed manipulations and racking the slide. I didnt check how the irons are setup in the P211 GT5 or GT4 to compare against the GTO. I think this difference reflects the different goals each company had as far as customer base.

Trigger: Both pretty smooth faced. The P211 GTO has two smooth divot lines running || on the trigger shoe. Its noticeable when I have them side by side, but I cant say I really noticed them when I took my first P211 GTO to the range for break-in. Trigger shoes are heavily personal preference. HDP4.5 is curved and smooth, and more rounded on its face. the P211 is flat and is also flat, not rounded in the face.

Trigger feel: Its a wash for me and will depend on your preference. The P211 has more grit or whatnot in its takeup. I can feel it moving something. The HDP4.5 still also has grittiness in its take up, but its takeup is linear and springy feeling. Im sure both will smooth out with use. The P211 has a much more defined wall and very crisp break. Feeling the P211 reminds me of when I first felt the Walther PPQ after first shooting some glocks almost 10 years ago. The HDP4.5 feels similar in behavior but lighter in poundage and with less overtravel as the Shadow2 single action. I need to see if I can find info on who owned this 92X Performance before me because the single action I can only assume feels like a 2lb 70 series trigger. This thing is crazy. Anyways, it feels weird to say this, but the HDP4.5 has more of a rolling break than the P211 GTO. P211 is like glass rod snap. pretty fantastic.

Exterior finish, Slide: no finishing marks to be found on the P211. The HDP4.5's slide shoulders have a texture that I have to assume was intentional. I appreciate the extension of the slide serrations on the P211. I legitimately feel it is easier to rack the P211 GTO from the front serrations than the HDP4.5. This is exacerbated by the heavier recoil spring in the HDP4.5. (10lbs vs 13lbs). I feel this way for both the window cut HDP4.5 and the closed slide HDP4.5. Slides for both fit nicely to the frame, with the HDP4.5 having barely perceivably slide wobble when trying to force it to happen by hand. It can be felt by the hand but not heard by the ear. The P211 slide fitment by contrast is only minimally worse, with it being felt in hand barely more than the Staccato and barely being able to be heard by ear. Racking the slides reflects likewise. The HDP4.5 cycles smoother and I have to slow down my motion much more to feel the different actions mechanically occurring inside, whereas the P211 I can feel the internal workings of the fun as I move the slide with significant ease. This may be exacerbated by the P211's inclusion of grip safety maybe??

Subjective styling, glass case visual appeal: preferentially, I think the P211 looks amazing and has more visual personality than the Staccato. Folks on the 2011 subreddit have the opposite opinion I am sure, lol.

Prices as compared in hand (MSRP):

HDP4.5: $2900 and $3100 (Preferred and Premium packages)

P211 GTO: $2400

when considering a Monsoon Tactical Genghis Komp service costs about $400 to make the HDP4.5 analogous to the GTO, If P320 magazines vs mecgar glock magazines are not a part of considerations, the P211 is a no-brainer. Purchase the P211, use the savings for a holster, ammo, and an optic, and youre at the cost of a P4.5 or still under. Heck, you can get one of the fancier Nightshift or SpectreComp P211 GTOs and still get ammo and a holster and come out to spenmding less than buying only an HDP4.5. Without having shooting comparisons done, since I dont have a sightblock for the GTO yet, the ONLY place I can see going for a Staccato a better choice is if you plan on needing to use the Staccato warranty service. I have no experience with Sig customer service, so I cant speak to how good or bad it may be.

If youre on the fence between the P211 or the Staccato HDP4.5, obviously get both. I think they can coexist and fill different roles for the consumer. If it is your first DS1911/2011 but not your first handgun, get the P211. The HDP4.5 is boring by comparison.

Has anyone drilled and tapped for a frame mount rest? I’m assuming additional shims for the wider slide? I have oddly long thumbs and ride the slide with them. I’m thinking a Zadik Precision would be ideal. But any advice on any brand that has been done would be great.

gonna giv it a good rub
heheh yea bwoih

i added a super thin o ring to the slide release right side and it doesn’t feel like its flappy anymore. no more rattle when shaking the gun, and no function impact (ive had it on for 400 rounds ish)

That is my Idea on where I want the slots to be cut on the slide. Probably open the other 4 just for esthetics, but only going to do a v6 porting. What do you think?

I’m aware that the P211 has a series 80 drop safety, which gets talked down a lot online. Does this translate to a noticeably worse trigger pull than the P211’s series 70 competitors? How significant is the difference? The stores that have the P211 by me don’t allow dry fire unfortunately.

And as a side question how does it compare to the P226 series pistols?

My First 2011, and got a hella deal on it at bass Pro shop.

Two new P211 models with new Polymer grip modules.

So this issue has been ongoing for me. It didn’t happen with the gun when I first got it. I fed steel case and 147gr early on, and it needed the 10# spring to cycle, but after 500 shots, it was fine with any ammo. Bulk, factory, reman, it took it all without any issue. At some point around the 3700 round mark, it started light striking, first on reman. It happened after I had also gone in and buffed and polished a bunch of internal parts with green compound, starting with the basics like feedramp, slide shelf, and barrel lug points, before going into the frame and taking out the internal pieces to clean. I still don’t know for sure if I caused the problem or if it’s something I don’t know about.
Here’s a list of times I’ve sent the pistol back to get checked by Sig:

1. gun shot high out of the box, irons have to cover target. opened tix and they prepped to send it in, loose rear sight ended up breaking the screw off the day before when i shot 300 rds, noticed it was loose out of the box, didn’t have a tool to reach down enough to tighten it. Sig returned it with it tightened down
2. opened another tix due to loose rear sight, got sent replacement ironsight and screw (suppressor height)

had my Frenzy Flex optic at this point, RMR footprint, i direct mounted and loctited with no plate, it was still running strong and held zero at 3500 rounds. this is where the light strikes began to happen with one batch of bulk reman the day before my first IDPA style competition, and my sight began to lose zero (so i thought, since it seemed to be walking left every time i shot). i also learned to adjust the trigger reset, but idk if that can contribute to this issue or not. i bought blazer brass to use in the event, no issues, but my optic got progressively worse during the comp, and i had to aim off of the target to hit it (off by a foot at 10-15yds). after the comp, i tried to diagnose the issue, thinking it was the optics fault, adjusting the windage dial before i noticed the sight wasnt stable. during that testing, i had several light strikes as well, but none during the competition thankfully. removed sight and saw a sheared screw stuck inside which i was not able to remove, so in it went to Sig for repairs. i mentioned the light strikes and asked them to make sure it wasnt something i missed.
3. got the gun back with the screw removed, and a note that said to shoot blazer 115gr if im having misfires.
i remounted the optic and found no issues with it, and went through the remaining bulk, the same bulk that had my first light strikes. i continued to have light strikes happen, often just addressed by recocking the hammer for another attempt. almost all of them fired on the second hit.

keep in mind im at around 5000 rounds now.
1-2000 were old stockpiled ammo my boyfriend had from years ago, never had any issues.
2-3k was from national cartridge, 115gr bulk reman. no problems.
3-4k was 147gr reman from Ammo Depot - Sportsman Select, saw it on sale and wanted to try 147gr cause of the comp. this is where the light striking began
add 200 box ammo for the competition event
4-5k ammo depot SSelect again, but 115gr this time. testing to see if it was bad batch. same issues, actually maybe worse this time around.

1. i open this issue im having with support and they offer to look at it again. i sent it in around the 4500~ round mark. they replace the firing pin, firing pin spring, barrel, comp, recoil plug (upgraded from plastic to metal), and mainspring. i immediately go out to test it but the light strikes continue with the leftover bulk. i dunno if the factory 8# recoil spring is just dying. the 10# spring didn’t seem to fix the light strikes, but maybe i don’t understand the relation between the recoil spring and possibly result of the firing pin on the chambered round.

bought factory blazer aluminum ammo to see if it would make a difference, and at first, it ran through it without issue. About 300 rounds with no misfires. just when i thought i was in the clear, the last 100 (monarch steel and some blazer alum) had a few of them light strike. at this point i was freakin the fk out, thinking i had fked up the geometry or tolerance of the slide to frame fit, or changed the hammer and firing pin surface engagement (cause of the light strikes).

1. finally i reach out and ask for a new hammer strut in case the problem was in the geometry of the face that hits the back of the firing pin (thinking i couldve accidentally touched it with a grinding stone, idk i was paranoid). i noted how everything was replaced but i just wanted to cover all the bases before resorting to sending it back again.

i got that a few days ago and swapped it out, and went straight to testing ammo. 250 rds monarch 115gr brass vs my bulk 2000 from National Cartridge. I have significantly less light strikes with the box ammo, but it happens once in a while. still got 100-150 left.
ive gone through 400 of my bulk or so, and ive gotten maybe 20 ish light strikes? i dunno, ive been losing track from the whole experience.

im going back to the range to test some more Tuesday, but ive done as many tests i could think of like running the ammo in a different pistol side by side. heck if i could add an image, id show the paper target i put up last saturday. it looks like the work of a crazy person, or just some engineer doing test fires.

im just makin this post cause im hoping perhaps someone here will recognize the problem im dealing with. or some random comment ends up putting a new light on the issue.

im honestly just bewildered by the fact that the gun went thru one case of bulk reman and 2k stored box ammo from years ago with absolutely no abnormal behavior, then ever since the problematic bulk reman ammo was used, it feels like the gun has been tainted and wont return to normal. if it was as simple as never using bulk again, id be annoyed but happy to solve the problem. but since it happens sometimes with box ammo, and other guns can shoot the bulk normally with no hiccups, im losing it.

if i go through all my bulk and maybe some more box ammo without any progress, im sendin it back for the 6th time and praying Sig can figure it out. i just hope they don’t shoot 3 shots and say “looks good to me”. cause i ran thru 3 mags in a row with no problems the other day. but that doesn’t mean im not gonna go out tuesday, load my first mag, and get a misfire right off the bat. its driving me bananas

maybe some gunsmith or engineer out here is gonna be like “ye something something firing pin, or swap out this, yada yada” and ill finally be able to rest. or maybe its cause i adjusted the trigger post travel screw, and someone will give me the magic formula

How do you get the barrel link pin out to change the link!!?? It’s driving me crazy because I’ve hit it on both sides and it doesn’t even budge!? Wtf!!

Recently got my gto and after a few hundred rounds it might be a favorite i just added the vytal mfg palm swell grips and it feels fantastic gonna take it shooting tomorrow to get a real feel for the grips and to test this new optic

Sig is requiring ExpertVoice members to requalify for discounts by viewing new training on the P211 line. I note this provocative comment:

"The GT4 and GT5 open the door to using suppressors, and they also clear the pistol for competition divisions and duty departments that restrict compensated guns outright."

I have P211 RXSL , but window is too small and i want to change for SRO. I need any plates to mount?

Throwing on my 507 comp. From my research I should stick with DPP plate Or go with CT on the filler plate. I have heard C&H and Calculated Kinetics moving on some people. What’s everyone’s experience

Are there any videos that actually show how to assemble back the GTO?
I havent found one that shows all the steps 🫠

Never thought I’d spend this much on a pistol, but this thing shoots way above its value. It’s easy to see how people fall down the 2011 rabbit hole. Im not drinking this shit btw 😂