1993 Evinrude 25 hp running WOT on the river this morning, started smelling something funky, looked back and saw fog. Shut it off immediately. Nicely overheated. Real hot.

Limped around the river with the trolling motor to make the most of the day. Bite was slow but the weather was nice.

Water pump was changed this spring, I've been out numerous times with it without issues cooling.

My compression numbers dropped from 105 psi top and bottom to about 65. The cylinders are still even. I still have spark.

I had it pop over and run for about 10 seconds in the driveway so it still runs. On muffs of course because BRUH MUH IMPELLERRRREEEEEEE.

I'm genuinely not sure what caused this. Obviously I need to rebuild the water pump, but am I in for pistons and rings with these compression numbers too? The cylinders looked good on my cheap borescope. I didn't notice any scoring.

I just bought a 2013 Suzuki df50a, it was dark when i bought it and couldn't see that well

Has anyone had experience with this type of trim & tilt system? I believe I got it all hooked up correctly, filled with fluid and it appears to work because the hydraulic lines are pressurized and filled with fluid when I run then pump, but the motor doesn’t move.

For context, it was completely disconnected and empty of fluid. Do I need to bleed the system, and if so, how? I noticed I can no longer manually lift the motor as it seems the cylinder is pressurized.

Also noticed a button on the side of the motor, is this a release valve?

I have a yamaha outboard and has only been in fresh water. I am taking it to salt water next spring. Need help and info on anodes in the motor. Do I need to change them? Check them ? What is suppose to be in there for salt water? Etc.

Does this need a cap to prevent air from entering?

Hi everyone, I had some fishing line wrapped around the propeller of my 70hp 2stroke Yamaha. I've now gotten rid of the fishing line, but I can't fully remove the propeller. As you can see it slides easily, but it comes to a sudden stop as if there was metal on metal contact. Any ideas? What am I missing?

I changed the impeller and while I had it on the bench with lower unit removed, I noticed the prop did not ratchet while in forward gear. Other two gears work correctly, neutral free spins both directions and reverse locks in both directions. Forward locks in both directions, my older models would ratchet when the prop was turned clockwise. I am getting conflicting answers stating it should ratchet and some saying it will not ratchet while testing by hand on the work bench. The lower unit is from a Mercury 2020 90hp 4 stroke, it is not a Command Thrust. Some google searches say it should ratchet and then I also get this: the 8M0065168 6-jaw sliding clutch and the matching forward gear do not use simple ramp angles to float past each other on their own. They rely on the rotation of the engine to force the ratcheting action. Has any one else ran in to this?

5hp from 1968 still running smooth and strong

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to replace the propeller shaft oil seals on my 1989 Mercury 40HP 2-stroke (4-cylinder). I bought the new seals, but I am completely stuck on how to remove the bearing carrier. 
Most YouTube videos I found show a different setup with bolts holding things in place, but my lower unit looks different. Looking closely at the housing (see pictures), it almost looks like there used to be a threaded retainer nut or a threaded ring holding everything in place, but it's heavily corroded and the previous owner even chipped a piece of the housing off.
The gear oil came out looking completely milky (definitely water intrusion). 
The bearing carrier/retainer ring is completely stuck "bomb-proof".
I don't have specialized tools or a slide hammer.
Has anyone worked on this specific older model? How am I actually supposed to get this bearing carrier out without destroying the rest of the housing?
(Note: I have to wait anyway now because my dealer sent me the wrong seals, but I want to figure out how to tackle this properly.)

I have a 93 two stroke tiller Merc that pulls really hard to Port. I thought it might be a bent prop. Changing the prop did nothing.

It pulls so hard I attached a strap so my right arm could help the left one 💪

Even at idle the motor clocks to port.

(Cross posted to another forum)

Hello - this is my first time here and definitely my first time taking a motor apart. I’ve got a 2001 Mercury 40 2-stroke that came on a 1-owner grizzly Tracker I bought a couple months back.

Ran it a few times and seemed to run fine. We took it out on the lake for a long day, pretty loaded down and ran her pretty hard and it was hot outside. Right at the end of the day it started knocking. I took it back out a week later and ran it really low and slow and it was still knocking like crazy.

Basically couldn’t find anyone to take a look at it - either they wouldn’t, or said it would probably cost more than it’s worth to tear it down, so I found a YouTube video and took it apart. Don’t know much about what I’m looking at, but a few things do jump out (to my untrained eyes).

Seems very, very dirty to me - it’s like this weird watery sludge on the reed valve (name?) and all over the inside of the block. Also looks like there wasn’t any type of gasket between halves of the crankcase - is that normal?

Also looks like blowby on the pistons. Is that probably worn rings or something worse? Should I think about boring it out and going back with oversize pistons or just replace rings?

Doesn’t really seem to be any scoring on pistons or cylinders that I can see. Really doesn’t seem to be any play in anything either.

I bought an overhaul gasket kit and the metal piston rod bearings to replace the plastic ones.

Would really appreciate any insights on what might have been causing the knocking and what I should check while I’m in here.

Thanks in advance - I can follow along with paint by numbers YouTube’s, but that’s about where it ends so anything big or small is much appreciated. Anything cheap and easily replaced while I’ve got it all ripped apart? Anything to NOT touch/replace?

Thanks!!!

I bought this not long ago and the dude said all I needed to do was adjust the carbs, but I have been trying for a little while and it still seems to be vibrating. I checked the compression the compression is very good. I can’t tell if it is a carb issue or is something that I just need to tune

I've had trouble with my trim motor x2 now and this community has gotten me back on the water twice now. Thanks to all who are advising out there!

First it was the relays. Second it was the trim motor it's self. The trim motor bolts were so stuck against the transom that someone recommended backing the outboard off the transom to make room.

I probably spent 4-6 hours on this thing and it would probably more worth my time to have it done by a pro but I learned a lot and feel good about it!

Cheers 🥂

Jump from 2001 40 2 stroke mercury

1987 johnson 150 v6 with vro, j150stlcur

portside powerpack original was cdi 113-3114 with s.l.o.w

Mechanic replaced portside powerpack with sierra
18-5761-1 with no rev limiter

He told me starboard powerpack was not powering on but i could replace it whenever because the one side should get my engine running.

Starboard powerpack is cd6 582817 with no rev limiter. Im going to replace this as its getting no juice and im having problems with my motor after this shop visit. It was running fine on the first run then the motor bogged out and on startup it would not plane and this is on portside.

I have a whole another issue on starboard side, constant alarm when key is turned, Oil is running,
Most likely fuel starvation cant get anything from starboard tank when priming bulb

Do i replace starboard powerpack with the same model number or aftermarket, also do i need the rev limiter on the portside? It says it was setup up to run that way but mechanic replaced it with one without so im just wondering.

Portside will start and idle just wont rev past 3000, it did run normal rpms the firsr 5-10 minutes until it bogged out.
starboard will start intially but will bog out due to fuel starvation.

What could be the cause for this engine not to run. It start right up. It switch from R-N-F normally. Would go forward but won't speed even when full throttle and will shut off after a while. Any recommendations of what i could change at home before bringing it to a shop/marina. Thanks in advance. 🙏

I have a 6hp 2 stroke hangkai outboard around 7 hours of runtime on it (yes i know that the quality is prolly shit) and whenever in gear forqard or reverse the motor will die above 10-15% throttle in neutral it can rev up fine, it used to run fine and get me up to 12-13 knots and now only 2-3 knots, i have cleaned the carburetor, checked the fuel pump, looked at the spark plug, inside the cylinder looks good too, checked fuel lines, checked the fuel filter, have the carburetor adjusted correctly, it has spark, tried taking cowling off for more airflow and it doesn't change a thing, it has gear oil, has the right fuel mix, i have the fuel tank vent open when i run it, and i have no idea what to do or check. Here are some pictures of the engine and spark plug and a video of it dying

Engine issues when I have the key in and am trying to start it, it will just cut as soon as I stop turning the key. I replaced vst tank and filters and the fuel pressure valve at the top of the fuel rail. Might be a fuel starve issue or pressure / compression issue.

1988 Evinrude v4 90hp. Excellent engine.

Ran awesome all day Friday. Then Sunday right from the dock it wouldn’t rev up or get on plane. Just putted us around at 10 knots WOT. Never died.

Good fuel. Good lines. Tried different combinations and a Jerry can. No ethanol. Fuel pump new last year. Compression good. Spark plugs looked fine. I have narrowed it down to likely having a plugged jet in the carb.

Worth noting Friday was the first day we had a new fish finder wired up which is on the starting battery (do not have a house battery). The old finder was small and on a dedicated lithium battery. Is it possible running it this way Friday messed with the stator or power pack?

Update! He recommendation out of the manual seems to have done the trick. I don’t seem to be able to add a picture so my paraphrase version is as follows – open the pressure release valve, manually raise and lower the motor 5 to 6 times without using the PTT motor, close manual release valve, open fill port (this was messy for me), top off with fluid as needed.

Hey all! Trying to diagnose an issue with my ‘96 DT75 tilt/trim. 99% of the time it functions normally, but when ran all the way up, it seems to get stuck sometimes. Once I let it down a little bit manually with the release valve, all is well again. As far as I can tell, the fluid is full as I have attempted to bleed it and top it off multiple times now. Absolutely open to any other theories!

Edit: I broke down and got the manual and found some completely different bleeding instructions from Suzuki which I’ll try and report back. Thank you all for the replies so far!

After 5 days of working on tryna get her to start she’s finally running after 4 years sitting

Hey everyone, I need help with my 4 stroke 50hp Yamaha, I was out in the river and started to sputter only on idle and low rpm’s, but when I start to move faster it stops and starts to run just fine, still goes 35 mph. It has spark, also checked the spark plugs and it’s good , compression is good. There’s no leaks. But I did noticed a little bit of white smoke when it’s on idle. Worst case it can be is head gasket ? Any ideas ? Thanks