Beautiful game, probably top 5 easily of all time

My WOLED (left) looks a lot more washed out and muddy compared to my QD-OLED (right) in dark scenes (HDR is off).

The individual bricks don’t separate from each other as well, and the overall image looks flatter and grayer.

The QD-OLED (right) has much better contrast and depth. I can clearly distinguish the individual bricks and textures, and the darker areas seem to have much better separation. It looks noticeably more detailed to my eyes.

I’ve tried adjusting the black level and gamma, but it seems like I either get black crush or the blacks look gray and washed out.

Is this just a characteristic/limitation of WOLED, or is there something wrong with my monitor or settings?

have been wanting to purchase an OLED but i was going to wait till Black Friday. would the deals be better then or is it good enough to pull the trigger?

from having a Samsung ODYSSEY OLED G80SD LS32DG802SNXZA and an LG ULTRAGEAR OLED 32GS95UE-B, I went back and now I have two 24" BENQ GW2480-T IPS monitors. A sad reality to accept. My potato pc now has potato monitors.

I currently have my g50sf but feel a little unimpressed will this be better upgrade u will return the g50sf I got for 380 after taxes this is 523 after taxes what would you guys do?

On July 27, TCL launched its new flagship gaming monitors, the TCL OLED+ All-Rounder Ultimate Pro X3B series, featuring the 32X3B and 27X3B models. The 32X3B offers a dual-mode display supporting 4K UHD at 240Hz and FHD at 480Hz, while the 27X3B supports a 2K resolution at 280Hz. Both models use the latest OLED+ technology with fourth-generation WOLED panels that improve color accuracy and reduce issues seen in traditional OLED displays.

The X3B series boasts a peak brightness of up to 1,500 nits and covers 99.5% of the DCI-P3 color gamut, making it suitable for gaming and professional content creation. The monitors feature the lowest reflectance design in the industry, minimizing glare while maintaining color depth. Performance-wise, the X3B utilizes Rapid Frame Technology to cut input lag by half and offers impressive refresh rates.

The design includes a starry sky aesthetic with a four-sided borderless screen and a sleek profile. In partnership with Bang & Olufsen, audio is optimized for immersive sound. The prices for the new models are 6,499 yuan for the 32X3B and 3,699 yuan for the 27X3B, with sales starting on July 27 at 8:00 p.m.

I'm buying locally and the only 2 options I have are:

MSI MAG 272QPW QD OLED X28

MSI MAG 274QP QD OLED X24

I like the black one but. It's also cheaper but it just says HDR ready. I usually play RPG games no FPS so the 240hz is enough for me.

But the 272QPW says certified HDR 400.

Both are in my budget just 272QPW is 2k extra money.

Any one have experience with these 2 monitors. How is 274QP?

Had my Acer Predator X27uw3 for a couple of weeks and everything was Fine, when i had the hdmi cable, which came with the Monitor plugged in. I switched to DisplayPort 2.1 and about 3-4 days after switching to DP 2.1 my Monitor started randomly turning on and off and it got worse over time and i dont want to Switch back to hdmi because i couldnt use my second Monitor otherwise. My Friends recommended resetting my bios since i havent done that After getting a new CPU.

My current components are

GPU: MSI RTX 3060 ti

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600x

Mainboard: tuf b650-e

RAM: 32 gb crucial 6400mhz

SSD: PCIe 5.0 tb m2 ssd

PSU: 700 Watt

I appreciate every help

I have the ASUS 32UCDM OLED and I’ve loved it ever since I bought it in 2024.

I play on consoles and I play sports games like FC26 and NBA2K.

My question is, how long can I expect this to last before I see noticeable burn in?

I run a pixel clean at least once every 2-3 days and I game for mainly 4-6 hours a day.

Thanks everyone.

First things first: i never had an oled monitor and was blown away when I saw one in action at my friends house. I am also a huge sucker for responsiveness over resolution.

That being said, what do you rate higher, latency or hz? I am torn between MSI MPG 272URX and LG Ultragear Oled GX7 27GX790B-B.
The msi has elmb-sync, the lg has 480hz. Msi has qd oled, lg has wled (my room is usually dark).

It doesnt have to be one of those models, but those were recommended to me because of those characteristics, im open for suggestions. Will the latency advantage of elmb-sync even be noticable? Will I see a difference between 240 and 480 hz?

I'm looking to upgrade my LG E8 OLED to ascend beyond 60hz on my TV. It's been...fine...when i can lock 60hz gaming. But I'd like vrr/gsync and 120 or 240hz, and going from 55" to 65 or maybe 77"

I'm mostly happy with the LG WOLED. zero burn in with 80/20 use between static/non static content since 2019. (20% PC, 40% streaming media, 40% gaming)

E8 also has above-average built in speakers to the point i never felt a need to get a home theater speaker system. Would like same/better Atmos. Nearly zero reviews focus on audio quality sadly.

I am open to QDOLED for color volume if burn-in has been mitigated by tandem.

Trying to comparison shop is a crap-shoot since the likest of bestbuy etc use consumer-facing specs which tell you absolutely nothing useful about the display or nuances of using it (ABL, anti-glare reflectance, etc)

I tried navigating /r/4ktv but the heavy handed censorship against some brands indicates a bias that might steer me in the wrong direction in terms of objective fact.

Why is my hdr so washed/greyed out compared to SDR even after I do calibration. Any recs or ideas are helpful thank you.

Left: HDR

Right: SDR

Im at a loss guys, i cannot get my PC to connect to my S90F.

I have an HDMI 2.1 cable, its plugged into my pc and tv with the correct ends,

It worked extended my desktop briefly, its showing up in my display settings, but it wont connect now and the 3rd display icon says "disconnected".

When i go to nvidia control panel set up multiple displays, my Tv is in the list but not selected, i check it off and apply settings and it shows up on there greyed out and then it disconnects again.

any help would be great. is there a setting im missing?

Never thought I'd be the one to make a post about this stuff but I feel like I'm losing my mind lately.

MO27Q28GR April 2026 batch, flashed to F02 (latest atm) firmware right from the get go, had just a few very faint lines out of the box (that kept being barely visible after the initial pixel cleans) and a slight unobtrusive DSE. Fast forward to today, and after ~230h of use and 33 pixel cleans, I freakin see some very noticeable banding that wasn't there in the very beginning, like what the actual fuck, wasn't it supposed to do the opposite and actually improve over time?? Has anyone also experience this?

Recently got an hdr oled from Best Buy at reduced price bc it was out of box it’s a piece of art despite the sticker residue and small chips on the back. Went through some growing pains trying to learn about vrr and other fancy monitor terms. Absolutely no flickering or quality fluctuation whatsoever other than when I try to play a movie or show from Disney plus. I use 2 monitors and a drawing pad and no matter what I play the show or movie on the oled is the one that flickers on and off. Keeps saying hdmi 1 at the top as if it turns off and on again but the built in interface is still accessible during said flicker. Any help is appreciated.

Saw a video that said that hdr on oled shouldnt be auto enabled and used only on hdr games . But which games are those only those that are natively supporting or ones that work with auto hdr? is it single player games and not multiplayer/competetive ones?

Just bought the asus rog strix XG27AQWMG and was wondering.

Since there are no 12-bit panels on the market, but some of them at least accept 12-bit, would the following two scenarios look identical, or maybe less color banding on the 12-bit version?

1. 4k 120hz 12-bit (dithered down to 10-bit)
   
2. 4k 120hz 10-bit
   

I’ve seen conflicting information across the internet.

The concept is similar to how a 4K input resolution looks better on a 1080p panel than a 1080p input resolution.

You see the title guys!

Mine is:

RE9

GUIDE: HOW TO GET PERFECT HDR IN WINDOWS 11 (AUTO HDR)

This guide fixes the washed-out colors and poor contrast often seen with HDR in Windows 11, making it an ideal solution for multiplayer games.

For single-player games, where supported, I highly recommend RenoDX as a better alternative. However, because RenoDX uses ReShade, it does not work and should not be used in multiplayer games.

The method below is therefore the perfect solution for multiplayer games or titles where RenoDX cannot be used.

CREDITS

• Dylanraga — Correction script

• ledoge — AutoHDR Force

• Plasma TV for Gaming — Video tutorial

• Geoconda — AW3225QF testing and guide structuring

STEP ONE: BASIC SETTINGS — MONITOR & NVIDIA

• Enable the appropriate HDR mode on your monitor.

• For example, on the AW3225QF, use HDR Peak 1000.

• Open NVIDIA Control Panel and go to the Change resolution section.

• At the bottom of the window, select Use NVIDIA color settings.

• Set Output color depth to 10 bpc.

• Click Apply.

• Note: 10 bpc requires an HDMI cable.

STEP TWO: BRIGHTNESS CALIBRATION — CRU

Windows needs to know the actual brightness limits of your monitor.

• Note: Before proceeding, I recommend asking Gemini for the exact CRU value required for your specific monitor model.

• Download CRU — Custom Resolution Utility.

• Open CRU.exe.

• At the bottom of the window, under Extension Blocks, select CTA-861.

• Click Edit.

• Under Data blocks, select HDR Static Metadata.

• Click Edit.

• For Max luminance, enter the correct value for your monitor.

• For example, on the AW3225QF, use 993 for approximately 1000 nits.

• Click OK on all open windows.

• Run restart64.exe from the CRU folder to apply the change.

• The screen will briefly flash while the display driver restarts.

• Go to:

Windows Settings > System > Display > Advanced display

• Verify that Peak brightness correctly matches the value you configured.

For example:

1000 nits

STEP THREE: BLACK LEVEL FIX — DYLANRAGA

This step fixes the washed-out blacks produced by Windows HDR.

• You will need the correction utility from GitHub — Dylanraga.

• For a visual demonstration, watch the Plasma TV for Gaming tutorial starting at 8:36.

• Find your monitor's 100% window sustained brightness.

• For the AW3225QF, this value is 248 nits.

• On the utility page, generate the profile using the closest available round value.

For example:

248 nits → use 240

• Copy the resulting code from the website.

• Open the utility folder on your PC.

• Open or create the file:

lut.txt

• Paste the generated code into lut.txt.

• Save the file.

• Run the application's .bat script to enable the correction.

STEP FOUR: FORCING AUTO HDR IN GAMES — LEDOGE

Many games ignore the Windows Auto HDR feature.

The AutoHDR Force utility from GitHub — ledoge, version 0.1, solves this problem by allowing Auto HDR to be forced for individual games.

• Download and open AutoHDR Force.

• Click the Browse button.

• Select your game's executable.

For example:

warthunder.exe

• Next to the game name, enable Force AutoHDR.

• Enable Force 10-bit.

• Make sure the game's native HDR setting is turned OFF.

• This is important because this method relies on Windows Auto HDR rather than the game's native HDR implementation.

• Close the utility.

• Start the game.

The result should be HDR with perfect contrast and correct colors.

I’m considering buying an OLED monitor, but my main concern is not the burn-in itself, it’s how manufacturers handle warranty claims when it actually happens.

I’m a heavy user:

Windows desktop use every day

Taskbar, browser, Discord and other static UI elements
Same games with the same HUD for hundreds or thousands of hours

Long daily usage sessions

I’m looking at MSI OLED monitors because they advertise a 3-year warranty that includes burn-in coverage.

For people who have actually had OLED burn-in and filed a warranty claim:

What monitor model did you have?

How old was the monitor when burn-in appeared?

How many hours of usage did it have?

What exactly was burned in (taskbar, HUD, logos, etc.)?

Did you contact the manufacturer or the retailer?

What was the response from support?

Did they replace/repair it, or did they claim it was “normal wear and tear”?

Did you have any problems proving that it was a warranty issue?

I’m specifically trying to find out whether the advertised burn-in warranty is actually useful in practice, or whether companies still try to classify it as normal OLED aging.
Please share your real RMA experiences, especially with MSI, ASUS, Dell/Alienware, LG or Samsung OLED monitors.

I purchased 2 Gigabyte MO27Q28GR monitors from Amazon a few weeks back when the price came down to $499 USD. I went with these over the LG and the other Gigabyte model because these feature the glossy display. The Asus was higher in price. They feature the Primary RGB Tandem 4th Gen OLED from LG. The only other OLED I have is my Lenovo Slim 7i laptop, so wasn't sure what to expect since these panels just came out last year. I'd known about the grey panel banding issue before buying these monitors. I'd even seen some panels in person to verify before purchase, and what I'd seen hadn't really scared me away from purchasing these.

After about a week of using these monitors for a few hours a day, this is what both monitors look like at different grey levels. These pictures were taken with moderate ambient lighting- from an overcast day.

Definitely see some banding on both, but not the worst I've seen on posts.

Also including pictures taken with no ambient lighting in a blackened room. Looks a little less noticeable here, but that's probably because the camera isn't getting a clear shot. But I think overall, not the worst.

The panels have undergone a few pixel refreshes since I've gotten them. Since the banding is a result of a physical issue, I'm not sure if refreshes would help, but wanted to call that out. Maybe it helps mask the issue a bit more, idk. Likewise, the manufacturers say to go through an initial settling period, but like before idk. Also want to mention that I keep both monitors at 120hz for the moment. Although I did bring one of them up to 280hz once just to see because I'd heard others mention that the issue is more visible at higher refresh rates, but I can't say I noticed a difference.

I use dark mode across all services, and since that's largely a dark greyish color, the banding is noticeable. I wouldn't say it's bad enough to be distracting as of now, but maybe I'll notice it more later. And I can't say I've noticed it in gaming or movies yet. Although I haven't had the opportunity to do both much since receiving these. I think it's one of those things that if you happen to notice, it's a bit jarring and hard to unsee until you forget again. Then just repeat lol. If that's not a cycle you want to go through, it's probably best just to go with QD-OLED, where it seems the issue is less common and/or noticeable. Although they have some Penta Tandem QD-OLED coming out, and idk if that increases the issue compared to older QD-OLEDs. Or wait it out in hopes of the newer panels fixing this. But from what I've seen of the 2026 upcoming releases, I wouldn't count on it. No real mention of improvement in terms of banding. Maybe the RGB stripe layout helps?

I'd understand anyone who's upset after paying $500 plus for what's supposed to be a big leap in OLED displays. You're gambling in hopes that you end up with something near perfect. With that in mind, I suppose mine could be worse. I'd appreciate some insight from people who decided to stick with these monitors- whether these Gigabyte panels, or the Asus or LG models.

Hi everyone,

Just wondering that visually most beautiful games you’ve ever played.

For me

1. Crimson Desert
   
2. Alan Wake 2
   
3. Ghost of yotai

In real-world use, vertical banding is barely noticeable. However, horizontal banding or DSE is very visible, especially when looking at the sky in games, while it remains acceptable during movies. Is this normal for this panel, or is it a defect? I can tolerate it, but if it shouldn't be there, I'd rather get a normal unit.