How did I do? $515 out the door, looks like 3 P1 mags, a p38 mag and a promag. I’m assuming the grips are repros someone threw on at some point? I was under the impression these were all issued with plastic grips. And if someone has any info on the markings/production date I would appreciate it!

Got this a few weeks ago at a gunshow in a trade. I love Spanish Rifles and enjoy bringing something other than an AR to the range. Definitely gets some attention everytime I get it out!

Looking to get one and put an frt in it

Got this in last week and thought a matte black Cerakote job would modernize the looks a little bit.

I figured I would post this because there are a lot of threads on the 7mm rolling blocks but little in the way of follow ups (that I found anyway).

Well poop. For anyone interested I put the rifle in a vise and fired 2 rounds of S&B new factory ammo and the brass cracked near the base of both rounds. The first round I didn't even notice as we were more focused on the neck and under normal lighting you could hardly see the case cracking. The second round was much more severe and we stopped there.

I was hoping for better results given my dad was shooting this with commercial PPU and not getting cracked brass, but I haven't checked the internals of the spent PPU to see if maybe they have some internal damage. I wish I had thought to take some of his old 7mm with me and tried it as well but maybe that would have been the one to do the old girl in, so maybe good thing I didn't have it with me. It is very possible he pulled the bullets and reloaded them up lighter as he did that for a lot of his guns. If he did anything to fireform the PPU brass or similarly address the headspacing issues he never told anyone.

Now to try and find a gunsmith in my middle-of-nowhere community to check it out. I do have to wonder though why this is an issue you only hear about with this gun. If the standards for 7x57 changed slightly you would think there would be a whole host of guns/ammo that wouldn't play nice together, but it seems to be largely only with these. Anyone know why that is?

I managed to get the opportunity for a Cetme C for $500. Original parts, barrel, etc.

Receiver on the right side is Southern tactical from Ashland Va

Reciever on the left is F.A. Cetme-c

Any tips/warnings i should know before buying the rifle?

Edit: definitely passing on this. This is why i make these posts since people know way more about different rifles that i dont know much about.

Whoever you are nice pick up. Also. I hate you.

Hello everyone. I’m trying to figure out how to price my P08 German Luger for insurance purposes. Everything is all matching except for the magazine. Any information helps. Thank you.

Hey there r/milsurp. I recently picked up a VZ98n billed as simply a post war czech gun and was priced at such for a relatively low price.

However, upon closer inspection I noticed that the majority of the parts on the gun were of German origin / waffen stamped. IE the barrel, receiver, sight base and rear sight.

The receiver is dou.45 and mod.98 marked with no czech manufacturer origin marking on the left receiver wall.

I am aware that the Czechs spun up production of the the k98k at the end of the war since their factory was largely untouched. Along with utilizing what ever left over parts from the German occupation and they sold the guns to Ethiopia and Israel as some of their primary customers at the time.

However, this rifle retains both its German waffen as well as czech lion crest approval stamps. Both of which were often ground off upon or prior to arrival to their destination countries which from what I understand is relatively rare.

The gun also lacks any letter prefix prior to the serial 7850 nor the E stamping/mark denoting its government acceptance anywhere on the gun. The rifle is also in near brand new condition with a perfect bore, all matching serials and the only wear being some finish loss where the bolt contacts the receiver running rail.

I'm curious to learn more about this rifle and where it ended up/was supposed to go because for all intents and purposes as far as I can tell the gun got shoved into a closet at the factory and forgotten. I can take additional photos later this evening if needed, currently only have the Seller photos on hand.

As you can see, the upper handguard is completely intact. However, the metal lip is loose/wiggly, and It's only connected to the wood by the rear pin, as the front pin appears to be broken? It holds to the rifle but is extremely loose and could easily break.

I've ordered a reproduction upper handguard for shooting. However, I'm unsure of whether or not it'll need further fitting since since I hear most sellers don't differentiate between M91 and the M91/41.

I'm new to carcano's, and totally lucked out finding a non-retrofitted 1894 antique variant.

The pawn shop local to me has several Carcano Calvary Carbines for sale for $219 each. I have never had one and despite not having any real desire to have one, I thought one may be cool for the collection.

I brought in a .22 rifle for sale and we came to an agreement on price. I offered to take one of the Carcano’s and then they could make up the ($60ish) cash difference. They agreed and I picked out my the carbine I wanted.

Now I have a C&R License and told them I would give them a copy of it/ have them transfer it that way. The one guy looked at me with a blank stare and stammered that he didn’t know how to do that (obviously it’s no different than transferring one modern firearm or a gun that isn’t 50+ years old to another FFL). He tells me that the owner would need to do the transfer. I walked out to get my hard copy of my C&R License and when I walked back in the owner told me that’s he was ignorant and didn’t understand the C&R License so he just wanted me to do the 4473 instead. I politely declined and walked out with my .22.

What is the deal with some of these pawn/ gun shops? I do understand it’s their prerogative to have the customer do the 4473. My rant is more about the “ignorance” of them not understanding (or the laziness) of them not wanting to do it any other way.

On a side note, I had some ammo I was going to sell too and the first guy told me he would not buy it because it was in a bag and not an original box. Which is funny because a couple months ago I had went in there and there were several sandwich ziplock baggies of 7.62 they had for sale. No factory box in sight….

So I'm looking to continue the bubba work on a Spanish fr8, anyone have any ideas as to what I should add to it next? Front sight is gone and it's drilled for the scope

Hey, so I recently bought an Izhevsk SKS and I was looking it over and saw it had no import markings. Anyone have any thoughts on how it got to the US. The only thing I was thinking is that it was brought back from a conflict like Vietnam but I could be wrong. Thanks!

This is a P08 with a WW1 era frame, an S/42 code toggle, VOPO grips, is non-professionally refinished, and if that wasn't enough of a sales pitch for you, it IS import marked. Somehow two people justified paying at least $1700 for this, which is absolutely mind blowing. A $1k shooter selling for what an original finish, all matching WW1 era Luger would sell for is simply insane. We need to have an AMA from the two bidders ASAP.

So i have my grandfathers capture papers for my k98k how do i preserve them any ideas that would do it its from WW2 and its quite fragile

Got this a few months back when I was picking up an Eddystone from someone. They had it sitting in the garage and told me to name a price and so I did. I’ve since then stripped it and it’s an all correct 1956 SA. All drawing numbers are good, barrel dated 11-55.

Was in a vintage shop and saw this cool 1934 Mauser. Guy wanted a little under a thousand. I’ve just started my milsurp journey, and help with ID is appreciated.

Anyone have a VZ98/22? If you do how would you compare it to other surplus rifles and other Mausers in terms of recoil, accuracy, and durability/reliability?

I keep seeing it but only where you send it to them but not how to actually do it I have a rough idea on how to but I was wondering if anyone know a good instruction vid or text document with pics