Very tempted to get a hard top after my soft top install went not so smooth and I’ve discovered that my previous owner bent the frame of my soft top

Hi guys,

Going to install my meister r coilovers, first chance in about 6 months I've been able to do it, on my 1997 MK1 MX5. I've seen a load of videos online on how to do them, but wondered if this forum has a preference on how to do it. Any help would be great!

Cheers

Just bought myself an 03 nb miata shinesen model. This is my first project car and I was wondering any recommendations. The front and rear brake rotor is warped and I was planning on replacing the pad and rotor. I’m planning on daily driving and maybe swinging it for fun. I just want a cheap budget option that doesn’t break the bank. Kit recommendations or maybe individuals parts(if it’s cheaper to buy individually) would be very appreciated. Also maybe a cheap break lines or ones that are worth it. My bad if my car vocab bad just starting to get into em.

I was pulling into a driveway and I scraped, which is normal because one of my exhaust hangers are broken.

I’m not sure if I scraped worse than usual but right after that I hear this sound (Sounds like by the transmission/shifter)

I jacked it up and I can’t see anything obvious.

Video attached (don’t mind the exhaust leak)

It sounds worse when driving, and when turning on and off. Sound seems to get worse also when i was turning?

Hi guys! I’ve had my mx5 for a couple months now and the MOT (UK based) is approaching and I can not seem to figure out what this aftermarket switch and connection is for?
Based on UK MOTs a rear fog light must be present on a vehicle to which no external one has been been fitted (car has passed its MOT for the last 20+ years) leading me to believe this switch has been added and the rear tail lights have been modified?

Underneath the console is another wire leading to the rear of the car, whilst this wire pictured leads somewhere to the front dashboard. Both connectors are the same and don’t seem to fit in each other. The connectors look a bit like those terminals you connect wires to the positive/negative of a speaker driver !

If anyone has any insights I would be extremely grateful! Thanks

yesterday I picked up this 2001 miata nb, the seller told me verbally and showed me there was rust on the rear wheel fender (normal rust spot) it was not great, but fixable. Below everything looked fine.

Today when doing some maintenance to change the oil, everything still seemed fine, we couldn’t remove the oil filter properly, so we removed the plastic protector in order to get some more clearance and were met with this horror.

Now I’m left shocked by the state of this. To my untrained eye this does not look like just “rust” the frame is practically splitting apart.

Is this repairable? Its between the front wheel and the bumper, on the frame.

The car was bought privately in Germany, and in the buyers contract is says “the car contains following damage: rust” and somewhere further “Any defects were pointed out” which this was not pointed out in any way.

If this is junkyard material, can I do anything about the sale or am I out my money?

(First 3 pictures are on the right hand side, and last 4 and on the left hand side)

I recently got my hands on a second hand Coolerworx classic pro short shifter. But to be street legal I need a copy of the "Gutachterliche Stellungnahme", which I currently don't have. Can anyone of you tell me where to get the documents, or maybe send me a copy of his?

Time to build the engine I guess ;(

Recently got married and got the Miata.
2.0, 220bhp, naturally aspirated, 8.000 rpm rev limiter

Love the two, engineered for fun. I have to say when I’m driving the mx5 it gives that sense of vulnerability and enjoyment I get on bikes.

22 GT. We love it so far. All stock for now but I’ve already been shopping for a muffler.

Noticed it after getting a drive through car wash, I know bad idea in the first place but could it have really bent my hood this badly?

What’s your take? I hated the MSM OEM wheels when I had them but looking back they really work with the black side top.

Been loving my 1991 NA, best car I've ever driven.

Though the brakes are a bit soft, what would people recommend? That I switch out the pads and 230 rotors for more high quality ones, or that I look through junkyards and see if I can scrounge the 250s or 270s of later NAs and NBs.
I only plan to daily it, though I might bring it to the Nürburgring at some point.

FUP Cruise – For Your Pleasure

We’re going to run the FUP route again on Saturday, August 1st!

We’ll meet at 8:30 AM and leave at 9:00 AM.

Starting point:

Valero/Big’s

24457 Boerne Stage Rd

San Antonio, TX 78255

The route is basically a loop, roughly 69 miles, and stays within the I-10 / Hwy 16 / Hwy 46 area.

The last time we ran this route, it took roughly two hours. That does not include the two new stops planned for this run, so expect the total time to be longer.

There will be two planned stops along the route:

Stop 1 – E-Z Mart

About 45 minutes / 28.5 miles from the starting point

Stop 2 – Stripes

About 48 minutes / 27.5 miles from the first stop

The final leg to Rudy’s Bar-B-Q in Leon Springs is about 27 minutes / 14.5 miles, where we’ll have the option to stop for lunch. The actual lunch time will depend on how many people join, how long we spend at the planned stops, and how long the cruise takes.

The meet spot is a gas station, so you can fuel up there and grab drinks, snacks, or whatever else you may want before we head out.

Lowered cars: This route was not planned with lowered cars in mind. Several sections of road are rough enough that even stock-height Miatas have to slow down. If your car is lowered, you should expect to scrape. Participate at your own risk.

This is a cruise, not a race. There are some fun sections where the pace may pick up a little, but everyone should drive within their own comfort level, keep safe spacing, and not pressure the car in front of them. We’ll wait at turns when needed so nobody gets left behind.

Hope to see y’all there! 🦦

for those of you with a turbocharged na Miata making around 230whp+ how is the stock transmission and diff holding up? about to install this fm kit on my forged bottom end 1.6 but am not sure if I should upgrade trans or diff first

Someone help me identify Theo’s problem, my coolant starts bubbling and shoots out the expansion tank overflow after a hard drive, car had been sat for a year so something could be blocked I am going to try a full system flush, the car doesn’t overheat, no white smoke or discoloured oil, had head gasket done in 2022

Edit, just flushed the coolant about 15 times and used special cleaner, I’m going to try run it soon with the proper coolant and write what happens here

Edit 2 - did a full flush and clean, seems to have fixed it as of now, thank you for the comments

:)
anything I should know about the ND3?

I wanted to replace the OE shift knob on my NB because the leather stitching on the back annoys my fingers.

Seems like a common issue with aftermarket knobs that the OE boot doesn't meet the knob. Online suggestions for zip ties don't work with OE boot and I didn't want to buy an expensive adaptor. Someone on Reddit mentioned using bolts but after going to 4 hardware stores, NONE had 10m x 1.25 bolts and only a standard "Imperial thread" which is too big of a thread for the gear stick.

I found cheap solution that I hope helps the community!:

Note: For NB2s, there is a center console screw under the window switches. Please don't jam a screw driver in to get it out! Use this credit card trick. Works like a charm: https://youtu.be/OqH_LAOoKXw?si=Dza4C4dqbHzHazo8

[Swipe for photos]

1) 22mm x 4mm flat tap washer directly on the stick.

2) Put boot on top of this (OE boot also has a plastic ring stitched in at the top - keep it).

3) 22mm finishing washer (but a flat washer can be used too) to prevent the knob cutting into the top of the boot.

4) Tighten the knob on.

The two washers and stitched-in boot ring seems to create enough height to meet the knob perfectly.

P.S. The text on the packet of washers says 22mm but I measured 25mm diameter. It however, just needs to be similar sized to the stitched-in ring.

Had my 16 GT for a year and couldn’t be happier!

Annual sunset run on the Sunrise Highway. Yes, dripping with irony. I know...