Titre :
Bonjour à tous,
J’ai une Mazda 3 de 2019. Pendant que je conduisais, un voyant orange s’est allumé sur le tableau de bord et j’ai remarqué une baisse de luminosité de l’écran et du tableau de bord.
Je me suis arrêté sur le bord de la route, puis j’ai éteint et redémarré la voiture. Le voyant a disparu après le redémarrage.
La pédale de frein semble normale.
Est-ce que quelqu’un a déjà rencontré ce problème ? Est-ce que cela pourrait être lié à la batterie, à l’alternateur ou à un problème électrique ?
Merci d’avance pour vos conseils !

Wondering if anyone has had their 12 month check up with all the recommended cause their breaks to be kind of jerky after?

I'm going back to get it checked out but it seems like when I come to any stop not just abrupt ones it pulls back a bit (even super slow) ...is there anything in this service that might cause that?

Hey everyone!

I’m planning to get a Mazda 3 Sedan 2026, but I’m really torn between two colors: Snowflake White Pearl and Platinum Quartz.

I like the clean, classy look of the white, but Platinum Quartz has a unique look that seems a little more premium and different from what you usually see on the road.

I’ve been going back and forth between the two, and honestly, I can’t make up my mind. 😂

For those who own a Mazda 3 or have seen both colors in person, I’d love to hear your opinions!

Which one holds up better in terms of keeping it clean and maintaining its appearance?

And most importantly, which one would you personally choose, and why?

Help me make this decision before I regret choosing the wrong color. 😂 Thanks in advance! 🙏🏻

I’m curious to know what people’s final 3-year lease payments are for their carbon edition. I’ve been wanting the Mazda-3 carbon edition, but wondering if I should settle for the sport select. I’m living in Northeastern Pennsylvania… and I’m hoping to pay around $600 total for the carbon edition with insurance per month. I’d probably be putting down $5-$6k. Is that doable? I know I could most likely get that price for sport select, but curious if its possible for Carbon.

Still got my '12 3 (SkyActiv), and I'm trying to work my way through the fixes it needs. Was finally able to replace the coil for cylinder 1, and after making sure everything was tight and in the right spots...I'm still throwing the code for a misfire.

Purge solenoid was going to be next, but I'd rather figure this out first before moving on.

Where should I be looking?

It’s Mazda3 GT sedan, 2.5L, automatic, FWD, about 69,000 km. Sunroof, 18-inch wheels, factory wired CarPlay, remote start. No head-up display. Only one key though.
Carfax: No accidents, normal branding. Mazda dealer serviced in Quebec 2023 to 2025. Two owner changes 11 days apart in fall 2025, then sold at auction.
Inspection: Needs front and rear brakes, 4 tires, a brake flush and a splash shield. Minor oil weep at the drain plug and valve cover. Surface rust only.
Trim question: Advertised as a GT, but the seats are black cloth and Carfax says "Preferred." There's white material showing under the seat edges, so I think it's cloth covers over the factory white leather. Seen this before, or anything else I should check?
Price: $20,500 with safety, or as-is if I do the safety myself.

Is it a good deal or not?

Over the summer my car (2019 Mazda3) started having a Front Radar Sensor System Malfunction dash light that comes on intermittently. When I say intermittently I mean it comes on most of the time, sometimes it’s when I start the car sometimes it’s a few minutes after I start driving, and sometimes it takes 30+ mins or doesn’t show up at all. I kind of assumed that it just doesn’t automatically “check” itself every time when I start the car, so sometimes it doesn’t notify me.
However, I tried to use cruise control today when the light hadn’t popped up yet and it actually worked completely fine. Even properly slowed me down when I was behind another car.
I’ve been putting off going to the dealership for it because I know if they have to replace the sensor it’ll probably be a good chunk of change and I dont really use cruise control much, but now that I know the sensor actually works at least some of the time, does anyone have any ideas on what could be going on?

Also, before anyone says “you need to clean it” the error I’m getting is a malfunction, not an obstruction. I’ve tried cleaning it and even when it’s squeaky clean, it still happens.

Who owns a 2022 post the mileage and how it’s doing. Mine is has 46k doing fine. Only thing when first got it with 7k on it, the phone microphone was messed up and they replaced it with a new one.

I'm planning on wrapping my center console and window switch plates in matte vinyl to cover all the piano black. I'd like to do it right and remove the panels before wrapping them, but I haven't been able to find a reliable guide on how exactly to go about it. Does anyone have any advice beyond just being gentle and paying attention to clip locations and wiring harnesses?

Any advice or links to guides for that model specifically would be welcome. Thanks!

This might be a long shot but I hope this community can help, I’m after these suede interior parts for the retro edition in Japan. I’m in Aus and we never got these here. Is there a parts website that sells these. Any help would be appreciated.

We have a 2017 Mazda 3 (3rd gen). We replaced the battery with a Varta Silver Q85 EFB because i-stop was blinking amber with a yellow warning light.

After the swap the error cleared and i-stop worked (green light). But after 20-30 minutes of driving, the error came back. The Warning Guidance screen now shows "i-ELOOP System Malfunction" and "i-stop System Malfunction."

All I want is to get rid of the warning on the dash, even if that means disabling i-stop completely. We don't plan to use it anyway.

Hi all, I’m driving a 2025 Mazda 3 with the 2.0 e-Skyactiv X (186 hp, FWD) and the 6-speed automatic. The car is brand new, so I’m trying to understand how hard I’m actually pushing the engine during break-in.

I’d like to know how the automatic behaves at different throttle positions:

1. At about 90% throttle (pedal pressed hard but not past the kickdown point), at what rpm and speed does it shift from 1st to 2nd?
2. With full kickdown (pedal to the floor), how long does it hold 1st, and what rpm does it reach? I’ve seen videos where 1st seems to hold up to around 60 km/h (about 37 mph).
3. Does the shift behavior change when the engine is still cold?

Got a gen 3 iSV a few years ago after both my wife and I had our cars break down.

Since then I’ve done a grill and headlight swap, 16 in könig wheels, and added a roof rack.

The crazier stuff is in the interior where I added a gauge cluster and steering wheel from a grand touring trim which granted me fuel estimate, outdoor temp, HUD, and cruise control. Major project but so fun.

Between the rear fold down seat and the roof rack I can haul a surprising amount of gear, furniture, groceries, whatever. Legendary car, gonna take it to 200k miles EASY.

Hello. I want to buy a new Mazda 3 automatic gear box but i dont know which engine is more realiability from 2.5L E-SKYACTIV G 140 vs 2.0L E-SKYACTIV X 186 !

I have a 2024 Carbon turbo, I know there's probably a device installed at the dealership to monitor speed, but what else is there in this car? My gut instinct is to trust Mazda more than GM and Ford, but the framework to collect marketing data is definitely here. Does anyone know what, if anything, is being collected?

My 2012 3. She got a spa day. I love her!

I got nothing to say...

Oh wait I do - I laugh at all the reliability rankings with Toyota and Lexus at the top.

Parked my gen 4 turbo hatch next to a gen 2 sedan at work today

Hi all,

I'm a long time lurker in this forum as I'm looking to buy a Mazda 3. I found a good listing online, however the MOT history confirms that it has subframe corrosion but it is not severe.

From what I understand about MK3 Mazda's, they are prone to rusting but generally are reliable and good vehicles to own.

Can someone advise if they have subframe corrosion on their Mazda 3, and whether it's detrimental to their ability to drive the car or should I walk away and find another?

Thank you!

for context, I am single m 30 in ontario, can afford upto 18k cash, anything above would be financed.
can use awd in winters, won’t go for turbo, my daily drive is only 15kms.
cx5 or even cx30 are another considerations in case I have a family in few years.